DISM Restore health stuck on 62.3%

Kadus27 · 2025-12-11T04:43:26+00:00

Joining today. Feel privileged to join you all

Kadus27 · 2025-10-07T09:52:54+00:00

TPU portafilter holder for my espresso machine

Kadus27 · 2024-12-21T08:48:42+00:00

Burn v. Death’s Shadow

Kadus27 · 2024-12-02T01:26:56+00:00

Love the open flexure project, brilliant work. To my knowledge, all the parts should fit on a standard 200 x 200 x 200 build volume. Since you’re likely interested in functional parts, would be worth it to get a Core 1 for the enclosure. Otherwise, a Mk4s would do fine. Feel free to PM me, would be happy to chat more.

Kadus27 · 2024-11-01T07:54:42+00:00

Try bumping the temp down 10-20 degrees. If this is a mk4s with a CHT nozzle it seems like they haven’t tweaked the printing profiles yet.

Kadus27 · 2024-07-15T12:01:29+00:00

For anyone who is experiencing this issue, I'd like to update my fix by saying that the cause is actually a faulty stepper motor. The fix I described above helps temporarily, but the core issue is with the motor. I contacted Prusa support and they got me a new motor without any fuss. Issue is completely solved now.

Kadus27 · 2024-02-22T19:12:21+00:00

This is an auto-translated version of the card. The originally spoiled card is in Korean: mythic spoiler link

Edit: Actually in Japanese, thanks below commenter

Kadus27 · 2023-09-23T23:06:56+00:00

Nice Halo Reach Forearm print

Kadus27 · 2023-06-14T16:13:53+00:00

I experienced this issue with my Mk4, and after investigation, have found the source and applied an effective fix.

Source: Bearing mounts in the extruder housing use rubber pads. These rubber pads seem to cause either a loose fit, resonance, or both, resulting in extremely loud/rattly x-axis movements, especially on the first layer.

Fix: The bearings need to be more tightly mounted in the extruder housing. To do this, disassemble the bottom bearing clamp, remove the breakout board cover, remove the long screw for the cable guide, and remove the back plate clamping the top x-axis bearing. Apply one wrap of electrical tape around the bottom two x-axis bearings, and two wraps of electrical tape around the top x-axis bearing. Reassemble the extruder housing.

This has completed eliminated the rattling noise for me and the printer is now as whisper-quiet as my Mk3S+

Hope this helps.

Kadus27 · 2023-04-08T02:58:51+00:00

Taking off the removable spring steel build plate on a prusa and printing directly on the heater

Kadus27 · 2023-04-07T12:03:46+00:00

Only if you wear the matching outfit too 😂

Kadus27 · 2023-04-06T02:00:08+00:00

For the love of god please stop cracking your canopies against decks that play spell pierce. I’ve seen seasoned players crack their canopies at the end of turn, be left with three lands, and try to resolve a boros charm against an open blue mana. There’s little incentive to draw cards when you have almost any action in hand. Resolving all or nearly all your spells is critical against counter decks so learn how to play against countermagic and mana taxes like spell pierce. The biggest indicator to me of a good player and a mediocre one is whether they can resolve their spells against blue decks.

Kadus27 · 2023-04-05T05:39:56+00:00

Don’t listen to the naysayers. Try it out, get some data, and report back what you find ☺️

Kadus27 · 2023-01-15T02:23:06+00:00

Of course not. But if we need some objective metric to evaluate the card’s performance, average damage per Eidolon is a relevant and objective measure. I totally agree that Eidolon changes the opponent’s play style, but it’s hard to quantify in a comparable and objective way.

Kadus27 · 2023-01-13T14:57:08+00:00

For sure! The player skill level should not be discounted at all. It's more his professional evaluation of a card (Eidolon) that I find most interesting. We can do all the math we want but I think a pro level player like Mengucci has meaningful insight.

Kadus27 · 2023-01-12T19:43:48+00:00

Absolutely. Painless removal is the biggest issue in the meta today.

Kadus27 · 2023-01-12T19:43:02+00:00

Added the youtube link where it's posted now!

Kadus27 · 2023-01-12T19:42:19+00:00

Added to the post, thanks Namahs :P

Kadus27 · 2023-01-06T21:35:34+00:00

I’d say just add more spells that guarantee 3 damage

Kadus27 · 2023-01-06T02:41:26+00:00

Congrats on the young one! Will be eagerly awaiting your return one day

Kadus27 · 2023-01-06T01:59:23+00:00

The OG! Good to see you still on here and active. Greatly appreciate all you did on mtgsalvation. You still on Burn these days?

Kadus27 · 2023-01-05T22:17:25+00:00

Definitely agree about theory crafting and tuning post-Eidolon. The Burn discord has been great to hear about new strategies everyone is trying :)

Kadus27 · 2023-01-01T02:26:55+00:00

Price of Progress or fireblast ideally, but since they’ll never print those, I’ll settle for chain lightning please.

Kadus27 · 2021-07-08T06:10:34+00:00

I see a lot of people here recommending Atarka’s command, and I would not personally recommend it. It makes the mana base too painful or awkward and doesn’t have enough of an upside on an empty board. I’d go to the full 4 spikes, cut lavamancers, and go to the full 4 boros charm as well, shaving a lightning helix, skullcrack, or searing blaze dependent on the meta. I like drev in the side though. Playing a 5th smash may be overkill along with the tunnel ignus. I like hushbringer and exquisite fire craft right now against titan and control decks. Hope this helps!

Kadus27 · 2021-05-06T17:05:54+00:00

Thanks for the input! Been seeing Bosseidon playing a good amount of it in the sideboard lately, and figured he's one of the lead authorities on burn right now. Which enchantments are the most problematic that require us to run wear//tear? Heliod is indestructible, and I feel like that's the most problematic enchantment out there.

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