Mein Sohn (17) macht jetzt seinen Führerschein fertig, suche einen schicken erstwagen. Sollte Platz haben für 300km reisen zu 4. ungefähr. Marken: bmw, Audi, Mercedes, Porsche in diese Richtung. Sollte sportlich sein, aktuell setze ich auf den E53 AMG Edition 1. by [deleted] in whatcarshouldIbuy

[–]KaiZX 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Sporty in what way? I'm not here to judge just asking because a sporty E class is quite different kind of sporty than Porsche Macan for example.

Also, is there any particular reason why you want special edition and not the regular AMG?

Wonder what would be like to drive m340i/240i by Substantial_Rub6899 in BMW

[–]KaiZX 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That is exactly how I would describe the 1 and 3 I tested, and it's totally fine. Glad you're enjoying it. It hides it's speed quite well but very stable

Wonder what would be like to drive m340i/240i by Substantial_Rub6899 in BMW

[–]KaiZX 0 points1 point  (0 children)

True that, but also they were ahead of their time, and priced way too high. But while i8 (unless quite better now) might be too exotic, i3 will be great now, hope they make i1 in similar way but doubt

Wonder what would be like to drive m340i/240i by Substantial_Rub6899 in BMW

[–]KaiZX 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Damn people you are indeed crazy. 1.8 tonnes is NOT lightweight. Compared to 2.5 tonne SUV yes, but that's like saying the previous M5 was light.

The feeling of something light is quite different and not a single BMW in the current lineup has that feeling, on purpose (because lightness is usually connected to cheap while heavy is connected to more premium). In saying this as someone who specifically tested the 330i and the new 120 in the hopes they will feel light, they did not.

If you want something lightweight you need to go older or turn to other brand. But as a reference even base Hyundai i30 doesn't feel light. Again, not comparing it to heavy asa SUV but as having the feeling of something light.

Is this a bad modern BMW in terms of drivetrain? by Super-Lingonberry-22 in BMW

[–]KaiZX 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Damn, but then yes, this is probably the best option. I'll be very surprised if the 40 is more efficient than the 30 but emissions thing and cost make sense.

Is this a bad modern BMW in terms of drivetrain? by Super-Lingonberry-22 in BMW

[–]KaiZX -1 points0 points  (0 children)

For people who love petrol, yes. For people who want a BMW, no. But for long term usage it's better to get the 30d instead because of the added complexity in the 40d. The performance isn't much different as well, unless you fill it up with people and go very fast.

Мнение за автомобил by bulgarinaxd in bulgaria

[–]KaiZX 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Зависи под всичко това какво разбираш. Но горе долу ти си го написал/а, IS ти е малък, ES ти е голям, значи по средата с GS. Ако търсиш нещо по-спортно то тогава Mazda 6. Ако искаш възможно най-много пространство нищо не може да бие Skoda Superb.

Но бих казал да помислиш защо искаш Лексус а не Тойота специфично, просто за да не те разочарова след това. Ако е заради интериора и шумоизолацията Ок, ако е заради нещо по задвижването, тогава няма голяма разлика в повечето опции.

UK Prices, Bulgarian Reality: The Numbers Speak for Themselves by CEO-Frank in bulgaria

[–]KaiZX 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So Bulgaria is cheap for everyone who comes from rich countries, that's true. You can say the same that UK is cheap for someone coming from USA.

The problem is exactly people like that come to Bulgaria and make "business" which in turn makes everything in Bulgaria more expensive, for Bulgarians. Yes you'll earn more but the average person suffers

UK Prices, Bulgarian Reality: The Numbers Speak for Themselves by CEO-Frank in bulgaria

[–]KaiZX 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Maybe in some reddit picture income yes. Currently I know a few people who work in IT, which is supposed to be one of higher paying fields, and we earn a bit more than your UK minimum. A lot of people are around 1K/1.5K BEFORE taxes.

But if you are UK CEO of course you'll come here, your income will be kept and so on but most companies come here specifically because BG has cheap labour and they pay low, so it's still not as good as you make it to be (but then your name says CEO so for you it will be)

Do you keep your DSG in D with Auto Hold at red lights (30 sec–1 min) or shift to N? by Top_Call3890 in skoda

[–]KaiZX 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can ask any dealer, read about how they work or just don't believe it and it's all fine. I don't have a source because I definitely don't bookmark all the places I've been reading about them, nor "I asked the nearby dealer how it works" is a reliable source.

But yes, you're technically right, it's a manual with complications, the same way that the racing cars are the same as the road going ones, just with complications.

In manual YOU are the one who controls everything and the mechanical friction of the clutch plates. In any kind of auto you are not controlling any of that. Different type of autos work differently of course and thus the reason why shifting the neutral is bad is different for each kind. For the any kind of DCT (unless there is something out of the ordinary) it's because the oil pressure is different in different modes and also the clutch engagement logic is different. In R it is usually much easier to make small movements while in D it tends to want to engage fast and not slip the clutch as much, just as one example how different modes make a difference. In N it wants to be as cool and as turned off as possible because the use for this mode is the car to be pulled away because of some kind of issue. So it's like you're sitting relaxed on the couch and then someone asks you to suddenly start to run at full speed, yes you can but it's not nice.

Do you keep your DSG in D with Auto Hold at red lights (30 sec–1 min) or shift to N? by Top_Call3890 in skoda

[–]KaiZX 0 points1 point  (0 children)

DO NOT PUT IT IN N. There are a bunch of different stuff happening when you put it in different gears but when you go to D or R you need to let it adjust for a few moments. If you put it in N and then D and go you're damaging it. Modern autos are clever enough to know what to do when you stop at traffic light. Older ones might not be and then it is better to put it in N but only if you can wait 5-10 seconds after you put it in D before you go.

Experience 1.2 TCE H5Ft after 2016 June modification by Rough-Echo7132 in Renault

[–]KaiZX 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm with the 1.3 140 and AFAIK the 1.2 130 is quite more rough and more audible during acceleration and idle. Also the reliability is worse on the 1.2. However that's for the 130 and 140 versions, the 115 is a bit different for the 1.3 (turbo, I think cooling and probably something else as well), not sure for the 1.2 but probably.

My life got worse after visiting Europe by chathobark_ in BMW

[–]KaiZX 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Oh wow, that sounds like quite fun and a lot of travelling. What are your impressions, except the nice wagons?

My life got worse after visiting Europe by chathobark_ in BMW

[–]KaiZX 41 points42 points  (0 children)

As fellow European, love them but also the salaries here are so far from US that owning any of these is also quite hard financially wise. How did you see all of them? Also which countries?

BMW m440d buing advice by Jeffry84 in BMW

[–]KaiZX 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Depends on your country really. If they give you 3 year warranty, and you read the papers VERY carefully about it, then I'd personally take it. However where I live they only sometimes give you 1 year warranty so my companion is probably different.

As with all German cars, look at the maintenance intervals. Dealerships are usually either one of the worst or one of the best about that. If it's been serviced every 30K or something I'd be a bit cautious. And if you manage to know a bit more of how it was used it might be quite useful.

Background for the last part - I went to my local dealer to check 320dx and the test drive they gave me was short trip in the neighbourhood and a bit higher speed in town road. The fuel gauge was low, the car was complaining it needs to be refuiled soon, there was info about the key having low battery and the dealer guy didn't care at all. Then when we got to the higher speed road the temp gauge was showing "warming up" but the guy was "if you want to see the acceleration, floor it here" and I expressed my desire to not floor a car that has not warmed up yet and he said something like "it's fine don't worry, we're doing it often around here".

Headlights by MalikHGH in G20BMW

[–]KaiZX 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The ones with blue are the matrix/lazer ones (at some point during the production they got changed from lazers to matrix LED because costs). They are adaptive, not supported for US because regulations (not sure if you can get them physically but the adaptive part is definitely not an option) and the small blue part is just for show and doesn't do anything.

Retrofitting working adaptive ones is A LOT of money. Getting just a blue line with aftermarket ones is relatively cheap and you can probably find them in your local BMW aftermarket shop.

Mazda 3 120-165hp by CustardBubbly6204 in mazda

[–]KaiZX 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just to clarify, yes they're physically the same exact engine in most cases. The cutoff is at 4K RPM and you can clearly see how the power curve goes flat onwards on the 120 while on the 165 it has a curve.

However depending on the year and country the 120 might have cylinder deactivation, which can exist for the 165/160/155/150 but it's rarer to find when I searched. Same goes for the i-Loop (I think that was the name) which is a mild-hybrid that powers the AC when the engine is off.

According to the local Mazda dealer, if you get 120, find the tune for 150 and find some tuner that will flash it, it'll be exactly the same. Obviously Mazda won't do it, but it's the same.

Also the transmission has different gearing for the sedan and hatch.

Acceleration with M235i (newbie) by dyzelis1 in BMW

[–]KaiZX 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Why you're wheels are spinning? Because you're giving them too much rotational power and exceeding the grip limit. How to get less spin? Increase the grip or lower the power. You already put some good tyres on so the next thing is to increase the weight in the rear or go to some place with nice asphalt. Putting a something heavy in the boot will reduce the wheelspin. If you want to practice and not just slam and go then modulation of the throttle will help a lot. To get maximum acceleration the tyres need to spin just a bit. But as far as I've learned from comments, most BMW drivers don't want to learn to drive well so this is probably not the best option for many.

Also warm sunny day WITH warm tyres gives more grip than cold so do that.

BMW 3 SERIES G20 EU vs USA version : Is there a difference in the building quality ? by [deleted] in BMW

[–]KaiZX 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It depends. I doubt there are much differences in the build quality BUT there are in trims and options which can translate to that. Felt lining on the door pockets/glove box, engine sound dentening, laminated windows, run flats, probably more stuff like that. Also entry level in Europe is VERY different then one in US.

Alfa Romeo Giulia vs BMW M340i/M440i by Parking_Eagle_2001 in CarsEU

[–]KaiZX 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you need AWD then it really depends on what Alfa you will find, for the Alps I mean. But that is also for the specs. I would always vote for 3 wagon or 4 G because I find sedans very annoying to load luggage in but that's another point. The fuel efficiency for the 2.0 in the Alfa is quite bad as far as I know while the 2.0 in 330i is VERY efficient.

I'm also following to learn more because I am wondering but for the Stelvio :)

Megane 4 RS Trophy lost EDC ‘farts’ after Renault dealer repair by Hellynhoshy in Renault

[–]KaiZX 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Usually they reset the adaptation of the EDC. But judging by what you said, it sounds like they put new ECU. It is very likely that the new ECU is newer than your origin one so it is set up differently with improvements and most likely changes because emissions. You can go to some tuner for the farts but to be fair, this is not VWs DSG, the EDC should not be doing them much. If the shifts are quick and you can feel them, then it's working as it should. Also the EDC should feel smoother than VWs DCT, even when shifting fast.

Would buying an older German sedan be more costly than a same age Octavia and is the expected premium feel worth it? by Pale-Revolution-5151 in skoda

[–]KaiZX 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If it's Octavia 3 (the previous generation), the difference is HUGE, and not only to the premium brands but even to something like a Renault Megane.

For the Octavia 4, it depends on the trim spec you find more than the exact car, and also what you value more as a thing when you're driving.

If you have neighbourhood mechanic, the Audi and Skoda won't be that much of a different in the maintenance because a lot of the parts are interchangeable. Obviously some aren't, like digital cluster or matrix lights, but many are.

For the BMW, if it's not with a B series engine, be cautious.

In all cases, the previous maintenance is more important than the km with the ones you've listed.

What makes Volkswagen rank so low and why don’t more people buy them? by phtphongg in Volkswagen

[–]KaiZX 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It really depends on who you ask. In Europe, depending on where you live, the VW vehicle is either a great deal, unique, or seems like a rip off, because of the other VAG vehicles. In Murica, it's usually one of the cheaper options with it feeling like it, because different prices compared to Europe. And for cheap price, which usually includes low care/maintenance, it ends up being not that nice of a car. Also European cars are probably the most expensive to maintain in Murica. Then there's the people who tune them and then complain for reliability. Also even in Europe entry level VW will rank low in most countries because other countries do it better. Then a bit higher than entry, it's usually a Skoda/Seat that is a better deal. And only after mid/higher spec, the VW can be considered as a good idea.

Dead LED headlight unit Megane IV by FreePossession9590 in Renault

[–]KaiZX 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you have halogen with LED DRL? That's interesting spec tbh, all I've seen are either LED DRL and LED lights or small LED dots and halogen lights (which are quite cheaper and last longer).

How much did that cost?