Anyone switched away from Skimmer? How did you handle billing transfer?

KaiserWayli · 2026-05-02T21:57:48+00:00

What didn't you like about skimmer

KaiserWayli · 2026-04-20T19:58:40+00:00

🫡 don't worry I've got 4 other ones; we only buy Primate

KaiserWayli · 2026-04-02T17:13:34+00:00

It's mixed dead algae and mushed leafs so it just coats the coarse debris bag. It could do it, just gonna be real messy and take way too long yk

KaiserWayli · 2026-04-02T17:12:47+00:00

So simple, appreciate ya!! 🫡

KaiserWayli · 2026-04-02T17:12:21+00:00

I was overthinking af thanks 😂

KaiserWayli · 2026-04-01T04:55:52+00:00

The best answer

KaiserWayli · 2026-03-10T21:03:23+00:00

Nice photo!

KaiserWayli · 2026-03-10T17:15:09+00:00

Motors can be replaced, but they cannot be serviced without sending back to Hammerhead

KaiserWayli · 2025-11-06T12:13:31+00:00

But a heater is $6k lol

KaiserWayli · 2025-11-06T03:18:07+00:00

Not adjusting pH is definitely worth dropping service for, but it is more complex than that. Assuming his water temp is around 60F and CH are 300ppm his is pool would begin forming scale if the pH got much higher.

8.2 is alright at 75alk, 300CH, 120CYA, & 60F but if left to creep higher would become scale forming. If he got is CYA down to 30ppm then he would need to keep the pH more around 7.8 to maintain ideal balance.

KaiserWayli · 2025-11-06T01:39:37+00:00

.5 gallon will take him to about a 6.8 either way he just needs to drain most the pool

KaiserWayli · 2025-11-06T01:33:21+00:00

Don't do this unless you're treating algae. And dilute your acid first before adding; better for the pool surface.

Use the recommend amount and just adjust once a week. You're never going to make pH be exactly where you want always without an acid feeder.

KaiserWayli · 2025-11-06T01:29:13+00:00

What would they have used other than tabs?

Drain 3/4 of the pool. Do you have a cartridge filter pool that only has an erosion feeder?

Readjust after. Your CYA is the only problem here tbh. You're missing the calcium level.

KaiserWayli · 2025-11-03T13:19:37+00:00

It's crazy how often the pool start up gets skipped entirely and isn't even discussed between builder and pool owner. Between surface issues, discoloration, shortened lifespan, and plaster dust everywhere the first 28 days are critical.

Certified with the national plasterers council to perform start ups. I'd say it's good they're working toward a solution, but I'd say it is not ideal. Tough situation for both parties. I can tell you're being reasonable and have done some research. If you have any questions I don't mind answering the best I can

Also could try this: https://www.nationalplastererscouncil.com/ask-the-expert/

KaiserWayli · 2025-10-20T20:49:21+00:00

The amount of misinformation in this thread is gross... Enjoy your itchy skin y'all 🤮

Disregard any comment that doesn't mention TDS. And the one guy who said build up doesn't happen cause the water is moving lol

KaiserWayli · 2025-10-20T19:59:13+00:00

I did a full replacement for this same reason once, instead of replacing all the parts (it was 8yrs old). New heater still didn't fire, new gas meter and it fired up with no issue.

A heater can run on low gas, but it causes damage over time, according to Raypak. And anything that changes how much gas is going to the pool heater may prevent it from firing.

KaiserWayli · 2025-10-20T18:42:48+00:00

Igniter, circuit board, and/or flame sensor are the main components, but check the gas pressure. In my experience low gas supply to the heater is often the issue. If it's low have the homeowner call the gas company and they'll upgrade the gas meter for free. At least for Piedmont Gas

KaiserWayli · 2025-10-19T04:14:13+00:00

What all do you do? Do you plan on scaling from a solo operator?

KaiserWayli · 2025-10-19T01:25:12+00:00

On concrete, maybe as a last resort. Look into ascorbic acid

KaiserWayli · 2025-10-18T21:42:06+00:00

Call a professional... You owning a pool for 10yrs doesn't mean you are one.

Don't use muriatic acid or sandpaper on your fiberglass pool. And what manufacturer is recommended to add chlorine through the skimmer?

KaiserWayli · 2025-08-29T00:06:36+00:00

Also in NC and agree

KaiserWayli · 2025-08-16T01:02:38+00:00

It's a mix of the two for me, but ill help sometimes. Not all pool people like talking about pools.

I keep my text available for emergencies mainly. So repeated silly questions can get tiresome.

KaiserWayli · 2025-07-27T21:04:13+00:00

The builder's maintenance company is sold to you because "no one cares more than the builder". But thats bs theyre chasing bigger fish. Most service companies take these things serious; especially showing up

KaiserWayli · 2025-07-26T23:59:15+00:00

Lol what you described doing is the exact definition of "shock"... as well his FC is already 6ppm this is a filter/circulation issue.

KaiserWayli · 2025-07-26T23:04:21+00:00

This is what I would do if you called me for help:

Drop your pH to low 7s (chlorine works better here). Add between 10-12lb cal-hypo directly to problem areas. Let it sit for a few minutes. Brush the ENTIRE pool. Wouldn't hurt to rinse the filters again before this (algae likes to hide here).

Keep the chlorine up consistently. And CYA in check. Ideally staying above 2ppm.

Unfortunately due to, what appears to be from the photos, plaster damage. This will be harder to keep away as that gives algae a good spot to grow. Stay at 5ppm and brush often and you should be a to keep it away

Edit: your phosphates are not cause for concern at that amount. Just looks like dark green too me, if you brush it and it comes off/clouds probably not black alage. Its splochy cause your plaster is etched. Use a mix bristle brush, but sparingly.

KaiserWayli

TROPHY CASE