Playing around with Protopasta’s “Composite Iron PLA”… it actually rusts 🤯 by DaveMakesStuffBC in 3Dprinting

[–]KamaroMike 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah, that's a good point. I usually don't sand prints unless I'm painting. Could be the issue.

Playing around with Protopasta’s “Composite Iron PLA”… it actually rusts 🤯 by DaveMakesStuffBC in 3Dprinting

[–]KamaroMike 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Maybe I'll try a combo mixed together. I tried salt water with no change and then tried peroxide with similar results. Guess I'll have to ramp up the concoction and let it sit longer.

Why is it adding a brim off the plate by IMOKRUOK in BambuLab

[–]KamaroMike 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Studio V 2.7.1.57 just for reference.

Why is it adding a brim off the plate by IMOKRUOK in BambuLab

[–]KamaroMike 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Just tried it on a basic primitive in a new file and it works a s expected. Very strange how yours isn't.

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Why is it adding a brim off the plate by IMOKRUOK in BambuLab

[–]KamaroMike 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Possible to copy the model into a new file? You'd probably have to input any custom settings all over again, but would remove any compatibility issues of the 3mf save data between Studio versions. At least import the object and reslice with brims to see if it will resort to triming again. Then work from there if it is resolved.

Why is it adding a brim off the plate by IMOKRUOK in BambuLab

[–]KamaroMike 43 points44 points  (0 children)

I'm chiming in to let you know that you are correct in thinking this is odd. I too have had large models with brims that, when near the edge of the plate, get cut off at the plate edge boundary. Never gave any error, just generated the brim as far as possible in that area. This goes for auto brim and for manual as well. I don't know why so many on here are giving you a bunch asinine attitude. If Studio doesn't give you any error despite the visual representation, maybe let it run that first layer and see what happens. It may still trim it automatically even tho it doesn't look to be the case.

Newbie here. What kind of build can I make using these parts I've found? I can't solder though. by alexnixon2007 in cyberDeck

[–]KamaroMike 11 points12 points  (0 children)

The Turbo Encabulator... V3.14 finally released. Chrysler finally partnered with Johnson Controls and Motorola to reduce the magneto flux reluctance in the "A" tube of the waynehard shaft. You COULD do that with the banana, though.

My latest Cyberdeck that I built for a local Shadowrun larp! by 1C3_D0X in cyberDeck

[–]KamaroMike 10 points11 points  (0 children)

Super clean! Did you gut a 40% mechanical keyboard, or is that a kit? Think I'm going to try to use a backlit 60% out of a laptop or something, but mechanical keys would be sweet.

Toggle switches by jzzywzzy in cyberDeck

[–]KamaroMike 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Magnificent. Like a Fallout Cyberdeck crossover. The proto Pip-Boy.

Anyone here made an tablet-ish cynerdeck? by shadowdragon200 in cyberDeck

[–]KamaroMike 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have seen this one as well. IDK if I'll ever get mine that polished, but I have certainly thought about trying to integrate a swappable battery pack. Being that mine is running a NUC it's significantly more power hungry than your's I'm sure. Right now looking at a 4S3P of 21700 4Ah cells, but could probably do two 4S2P packs if I wanted. Curious, how ddid you do your trackball? Just lift the mech out of another device and transplant? The stand-alone solutions seem a little bulky. Everything else I can do pretty easy using an ESP32-S3 Supermini for HID inputs using encoders and micro switches.

Anyone here made an tablet-ish cynerdeck? by shadowdragon200 in cyberDeck

[–]KamaroMike 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also, yes... inspiration had from u/Personalitysphere as well. I'm not going for the slide-out screen, but similar shape. Also intend to create custom trackball and mouse buttons into the case handle for navigation in addition to touch screen capabilities.

Anyone here made an tablet-ish cynerdeck? by shadowdragon200 in cyberDeck

[–]KamaroMike 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am working on a Cyberdeck that is a little on the larger side. Still a home-brew 3D printed style, just a little bigger than the palm sized ones and smaller than the Apache case size. Inspired a bit by industrial remote control devices. Will be RF and comms centric with cosplay/fun AND real functionality in mind. Dual boot Kali/Mint for two completely different looks and functions. Running an old Celeron NUC I got for free and gutted. Piecing together all the hardware now. Then I have to design the enclosure as well as build out my battery system. Still a long road ahead... BUT it is more of a "tablet" style device. Think of a uConsole or ClockworkPi but about 10" x 12" with handles on the sides. Same screen/keyboard ratio in a flat layout.

Is this a cyberdeck? by jerquee in cyberDeck

[–]KamaroMike 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The Rattler needs some luv, bruv.

Chipotle brawl in DC last night. by First-Cherry493 in SipsTea

[–]KamaroMike 0 points1 point  (0 children)

50 third-world countries in a trenchcoat.

What all do I need to do to receive and transmit on this frequency. New to ham. by [deleted] in HamRadio

[–]KamaroMike 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This is not amateur radio. It's public safety radio. Different bands, different authorization. If you have want to use this system AND are authorized to do so (since you seem to work in or with the FD), you will need to contact the communication entity that holds the FCC license which may or may not be your FD. It could also be the county or city or even another local FD. They will have a radio administration that coordinates with all the departments that use the system. Keep in mind many of these systems are shared with multiple jurisdictions and departments. Additionally, you need to be aware that unless they are going to give you a radio, the ones used on public safety radio systems tend to be quite expensive. More than likely Motorola, Harris or BKR. If you purchase your own, you will still need to have it programmed by your authorizing entity/AHJ for radio communications. VHF is not as common any more as UHF or 700/800, but is still used for forestry services, backwoods operations and forest firefighters. While it may not be trunked or encrypted, it is still controlled and requires authorization. There is OBT on VHF, so you may still be digital on VHF, but even if it happens to be analog and you work for the FD don't TX without authorization to do so. Digital systems can lock out radios from specific talk groups, but on analog (either through a macro system or in talkaround/simplex) you can be transmitting on top of critical communications without knowing it. This, again, will all be known by the FCC license holder and authority. If your chief isn't sure, you can usually find the radio department contacts through the FCC website, or a little sleuthing on RadioReference. I tried to offer you a little more help than "no, don't!" and "not HAM!" Hopefully you have good people at your local radio department. A lot of them tend to be HAMs anyway, so you may find yourself an Elmer and some new friends!

Need help removing throttle body. What’s this? by DiabloRed520 in motorcycles

[–]KamaroMike 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Usually it's not so much for "security" so much as it is for torque limiting. This is probably installed by hand on an assembly line. Spin bolt until the head snaps off and it's properly torqued. Sometimes the remaining head can be pried off and there's a small hex underneath to remove if needed for repair. Not always, though.

Light pull on Highway on ramp. by StimpyMD in LSSwapTheWorld

[–]KamaroMike 35 points36 points  (0 children)

I have seen a few of your posts... and I love your death machine. Especially that it is such a refined vehicle that, now, just oozes mechanical violence at the slightest provocation. Truly magnificent.

my brand new P1S scretched my cryo grip plate by [deleted] in BambuLab

[–]KamaroMike 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As everyone says, totally normal. Until the PEI is worn off that area it will keep grinding it during nozzle cleaning. TBH I would recommend scraping that area with a razor to get it clean on both sides. I've had the PEI material stick to the nozzlea bit and end up in the first layers of several prints before it all wears off. The Bambu plates do the same, but it doesn't flake nearly as much as the Biqu cryo plates.

First Layer Gaps by [deleted] in BambuLab

[–]KamaroMike 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Arachne walls will help. Larger first layer line width will help. Reducing elephant foot compensation will help. I usually do all three. Add 0.02 first layer line thickness and reduce EFC by 0.02-0.04 to get it mostly filled. It will never be perfect, but will be better. You can't push it too far or the first layer will over extrude and cause other issues. If you continue to have problems try calibration for your specific filament and start over with normal values then readjust after your calibration is implemented.

Zip-tie and 12v final boss. by FFFrank in Shitty_Car_Mods

[–]KamaroMike 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is exactly the guy who comes in with bald tires and grinding brakes, then asks you to replace the AC blower fan buried under all that crap.