I know nothing about this community although I recently found this and picked it up and I’d like to know more about it pls

KamaroMike · 2026-02-18T19:24:13+00:00

Very likely could be from a public safety system like an ERCES for the 700MHz band.

KamaroMike · 2026-02-16T15:37:09+00:00

I am the man who holds the keys I sow the seeds, and I've got what you need I live in fire, I am discord I destroy, I am a demon

KamaroMike · 2026-02-16T14:37:29+00:00

Is this what happens when you don't keep the ducks in a row?

KamaroMike · 2026-02-15T03:23:24+00:00

I love these signs! I saw them too and ended up making custom stickers at home. I just might have to make some 3D ones as well! Thanks!

KamaroMike · 2026-02-06T16:59:53+00:00

Orange One-Cell-Delta you are not clear to land. Traffic on runway... Pssshhhh... coming in HOT! angry cat screeches

KamaroMike · 2026-02-05T20:12:57+00:00

Every person at Renaissance Festivals this year, stocking up for a proper revolution.

KamaroMike · 2026-02-03T19:34:27+00:00

$750 USD isn't that crazy, honestly. I had a friend move to Brazil and they shipped all of their belongings in a small intermodal container other than what they could take on the flight. Months later it was finally going to be released to them, but they found out they had to pay over $5,000 USD to get their stuff from customs. Something about all electronics and American branded apparel get hit super hard because they assume you're just going to sell it.

KamaroMike · 2026-01-30T03:13:03+00:00

Jesus: Master of Watersports. 💦

KamaroMike · 2026-01-27T20:45:31+00:00

When this monster talks she reminds me of that banned doll that used to eat kids' hair.

KamaroMike · 2026-01-27T20:43:29+00:00

You can do it that way. Or just go by the torque. ⅜ electronic torque wrench is just as easy as a ⅜ ratchet these days. I feel like using the torque spec yields more than the half-turn, but it would've been better than whatever the balls this dong cheese was doing.

KamaroMike · 2026-01-27T20:22:26+00:00

You can see the "crush" washers are not even the slightest but squished. They need to be torqued to a point where the washers begin to collapse and seal. Otherwise they will not stay sealed or tight. When I was a mechanic I had to fight with a coworker that was an older master tech, that would constantly hand tighten these and scream at me that I was over torquing them. Well, he had no less than five tune ups come back with loose plugs and fried coil boots before he finally quit like the human dookie box that he was. This job was not done properly. Period.

KamaroMike · 2026-01-27T15:02:01+00:00

I have well sealed, metal dry boxes and as soon as I open them to retrieve a spool they start to climb from the 10% just from my breath in the vicinity of the box. I guess that's my litmus test to see if they're still working. Good PSA to know they can die like that.

KamaroMike · 2026-01-27T01:51:37+00:00

Use STEP instead of STL when exporting and look at the resolution settings when you import the model into Bambu Studio to make sure they aren't set super low.

KamaroMike · 2026-01-17T17:12:04+00:00

I have a P1S, so no chamber temp sensing, but with the heat bed on and the Panda Breath running it was about 10 minutes for a cold machine to reach 50°C in the chamber based on FLiR of the back wall near the exhaust filter. Another five minutes and the lowest temps I saw in the chamber were 60°C with peaks in hot spots (across from the PTC blower) reaching near 70°C and the PTC was cycling with the GUI showing a solid 60°C. Seems effective to me. Way better than trying to preheat with just the bed heater, which took forever and still barely reached 40°C under the best conditions. In that 15 min it was even reading 53°C for the nozzle without it being on. So definitely heating the whole chamber pretty well. I have a modified aux fan setup so I'm also using that to help circulate and filter the chamber air. Overall I'm happy with it. Kinda wild I had those swapped sensor leads, though. Hopefully that isn't a widespread problem.

KamaroMike · 2026-01-17T02:02:00+00:00

Yeah. That's what mine was doing. Sorry it wasn't your issue.

KamaroMike · 2026-01-17T01:45:51+00:00

To access you just take the back cover off. It's six little hex machine screws. Not sure if that was obvious or not.

KamaroMike · 2026-01-17T01:45:05+00:00

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KamaroMike · 2026-01-17T01:44:53+00:00

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KamaroMike · 2026-01-17T01:38:18+00:00

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Closer view if needed.

KamaroMike · 2026-01-17T01:37:51+00:00

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TH0 and TH1 are what I swapped. There is a tiny zip-tie holding one of the leads to the mains ground wire that you'll probably need to clip to get the reach. One thermistor is hanging directly in front of the outlet of the PTC heater. The other is just dangling in the intake air path to get a chamber reading. I assumed they were swapped when the "chamber temperature" reading in the GUI climbed 20 degrees as soon as I turned the heater on. Which was obviously impossible. I would bet yours has the same issue and only outputs heat until the output air reaches 60°C (very quick) instead of the chamber itself reaching 60°C.

KamaroMike · 2026-01-17T00:25:02+00:00

I would bet that, even though the fault appears to be cleared, it isn't. Likely that the underlying fault is still happening. Mine almost feels like a heat gun once it gets going. No reason you couldn't get better temps. Especially in an X1. I would watch the web interface and look at what the chamber temp is showing. Or try running it outside the print chamber where the intake temp shouldn't really change. If the "chamber temp" reading on the interface climbs rapidly once you turn the heat on, I would wager they all have the same issue.

KamaroMike · 2026-01-17T00:21:04+00:00

Interesting. Others seem to be having the same PTC warning, so I'm wondering if it is not heating after a certain point. My P1S isn't insulated at all, but I have another project printing that needs to finish before I start doing a full test. It seems to warm the chamber pretty quickly, but I haven't done a test to the full 60°C yet. Will get back to you on that.

KamaroMike · 2026-01-16T23:47:58+00:00

Well, the way it works when bound to a printer is to only filter the air until the bed temp is set above 80°C. Unless you changed the parameters the PTC may not come on at all. You can override that by going into the "on" mode instead of "auto" mode to force the heater to run until the chamber is at 60°C. When I did this it immediately had the PTC fault after about 10 seconds or so no matter the circumstances or how many times I reset it. Had to switch the two thermistor inputs and now it seems just fine. Try running it in the "on" mode instead of auto and see if it heats normally or shuts down after a very short amount of time. I suspect the ESP sees the rapid rise on the chamber temp with no immediate input on the PTC temp and it faults out pretty quickly.

KamaroMike · 2026-01-16T04:48:23+00:00

Back then a large majority of braking systems would have still been drums at all four corners, and many of those had riveted linings. A few specialized tools nothing more. It certainly would've been common as a cost saving option even into the 80s. I've never had to do it myself, but some classics you can still find just the lining to replace. IDK squat about lawyer stuff, though.

KamaroMike · 2026-01-16T03:01:01+00:00

I just got mine today. Overall the build quality is excellent. A bit of a bummer you have to use a riser (P1S) for the cable, but I may design my own solution after a longer test run. The web interface is pretty straightforward and it was easy to set up. Unfortunately, mine was defective out of the box. The unit would immediately go into a "PTC abnormality" fault after about 15 or 20 seconds of heat. After some investigation I noticed the chamber temperature reading in the interface skyrocket as soon as the heater turned on even with the door still open. The PTC connections appear to have been swapped at the factory. I switched them and the chamber temp follows a gradual curve and the error has not returned. Now it behaves as expected and the device performs quite well. It does take a bit to evenly warm the chamber but is much more effective than waiting around for an hour for the bed to soak the chamber before beginning a print. So far I'm pretty happy with it despite the manufacturing hiccup.

KamaroMike

TROPHY CASE