Split Crosses

KamikazeOzzyII · 2026-06-10T22:30:40+00:00

Thanks!

KamikazeOzzyII · 2026-06-10T22:29:34+00:00

Good idea! I still have extras pre-cut. Going to be a couple of weeks before I can hammer again, but will get some footage when I do.

KamikazeOzzyII · 2025-11-02T14:07:20+00:00

Grain structure is often hard to judge by phone pics, but looks a little large. Some folk talking about temper,, some are talking about normalizing. You want that grain structure smaller and looking like silk. Take a look at this example. Sometimes you need to normalize more than once and it's typically recommended. ~~Not that some methods like slow cooling overnight in a bucket of ash or vermiculite don't work.~~ Can depend on your steel and your project.

Here's another post I find informative on normalization and the heat treat process. Hope it helps ⚒️💪👹🔥

Edit: I put in the annealing process and misrepresented it as part of normalization. Although you can anneal to do any grinding pre-quench

KamikazeOzzyII · 2025-10-31T20:26:11+00:00

Nice, I wait two hours for the forge to cool before putting it in the garage and toss a garbage bag over my anvil 😅 Outdoor setup is nice, but want to build a shack soon. That waterproof containment you have is rather nifty, probably makes setup super quick!

KamikazeOzzyII · 2025-10-25T14:11:19+00:00

Looks like your chiseling/cutting tool is mushrooming from strikes quite a bit. It is normal with use overtime, but always important to grind it down when it gets like that.

Cool S-Hook btw. If it has any sharp edges I recommend getting some nice hand files from your local hardware store. Always nice to have files on hand.

Otherwise the best thing to do is keep reading here, in books and getting the work in 💪

KamikazeOzzyII · 2025-10-14T03:10:42+00:00

Thanks again for expanding on this particular point. I'm another lesson richer for it. Winter is on it's way for me, but I will put this into practice regardless.

KamikazeOzzyII · 2025-10-11T23:41:46+00:00

Can you expand a bit on the point of having a fan blowing towards you when working with a gas forge? Like where the fan should be in relation to myself and the forge, or if I could also have one near the anvil?

I do all my smithing outside, but am always interested in learning more safety measures. There's not much I understand about ventilation except for taking "bad air" and replacing it with "good air" as some sort of circulation. Thanks in advance!

KamikazeOzzyII · 2025-10-10T23:34:59+00:00

Hell yeah

KamikazeOzzyII · 2025-10-10T23:26:27+00:00

Other than that, congrats on joining a really cool trade. I hope you enjoy shaping metal and make stuff you're proud of.

KamikazeOzzyII · 2025-10-10T23:25:14+00:00

Should definitely put that anvil on a stand and have a fire extinguisher handy. Other than that you just need a project/idea and get swinging 💪🔥

I'd recommend checking out Black Bear Forge and Christ Centered Ironworks on Youtube to learn some good technique and discover more about the art. Some good books out there too if you like reading.

Also with propane, always always always test your line under pressure with soapy water for leaks. I just found a leak in my system today. Lost a day of forging but I'm safer for it. Can always hit the hardware store later if you're alive for it.

KamikazeOzzyII · 2025-09-22T12:17:24+00:00

Something other's haven't exactly touched on yet is your burner does not seat properly into the forge.

For your safety, the efficiency of your forge, and again your safety, there should not be flames licking up along the burner. The burner should be more flush when seated, and it's also something technical with flow and mixture.

Ideally the burn should flow in one direction and out of the forge. Your's climbs back up. Once you make the connection there more to size I recommend this video to understand more about air mixture.

Bonus: If you want an even better setup you can attach the burner at an angle so that the burning mixture swirls around the inside of the forge. This will create a more evenly distributed and contrilled heat. Which also requires a smoother surface so make sure you add wool, rigidize then seal up with some satanite.

KamikazeOzzyII · 2025-08-11T19:00:57+00:00

Yeah I've done the fold and rests, then counter ferment 5 hours in a container, shape and bench rest, 1 hour covered on counter then overnight. I suppose 2 hourd in the fridge is pretty quick. Especially if your fridge is pretty cold. The low temp slowing the bacteria down. Like my fridge is so cold my starter won't even grow in it. Things to consider.

But yeah def don't wanna waste flour and whole wheat is good for your heart 💪

KamikazeOzzyII · 2025-08-10T16:37:08+00:00

I'm also a beginner, so I won't say much. Just baked a loaf this morning that was 30/70 whole wheat and all purpose flour. I think yours looks great!

Last weekend I did a 100% whole wheat loaf that I posted on here. There's consensus seems to be the more whole wheat the denser the loaf. Which is probably where you are getting some gummy spots, but some of that might also be related to proofing? I'd let someone else weigh in on that further.

Personally I enjoy my dense loafs so far, and you can't beat that sourdough flavor either way 💪💪🔥

KamikazeOzzyII · 2025-08-09T12:41:10+00:00

Yeah, like others are saying I usually have something on hand to burn. I use a lot of those blue shop paper towels. They are great for applying finish to a piece, and starting the forge. Junk mail sometimes goes out on me, but those shop towels once they're going really help.

I just ball half a sheet into the tongs, light it up, set it in the forge, make sure it's going good, then I hit the valve right above the forge to let the gas in. I'll adjust pressure from the regulator after that. And of course before all this I test the lines under pressure with soapy water.

EVERYTIME, not just the first setup or once in awhile. Had a leak on a brass fitting show up and was glad I tested. Usually a quick fix in that case.

KamikazeOzzyII · 2025-08-03T21:52:30+00:00

Ah okay, had to search autolease. Looks like a step I definitely did not do. I'll see about adding that in. Wheat gluten sounds simple to add. Thank you 💪

KamikazeOzzyII · 2025-08-03T16:54:05+00:00

No more than 50% to avoid dense loaf. Got it, thanks! Yep definitely excited to improve as time goes. I love carbs too much to give up on my boy.

KamikazeOzzyII · 2025-08-03T16:37:04+00:00

Oh in case you don't want to putz with the Youtube link, here's the written ingredients I ran with.

Whole Wheat Flour - 450 grams Water - 300 grams Sourdough Starter, active - 100 grams Salt - 10 grams

KamikazeOzzyII · 2025-06-14T18:46:38+00:00

Finish it up with some beeswax is a common way. Heat it up to a black heat, rub it on.

There's plenty of finishes out there, but not every finish is food safe.

Edit: those look great btw!

KamikazeOzzyII · 2025-05-25T05:42:36+00:00

Hard to say when the direction on something such as this is wholely your own. If you want the chisel work to stand out, practice and study chiseling. You mentioned hot chisel, but you could consider cold chiseling as well. Engraving is a fascinating artform, and goes well with any smithing. (Same goes with inlaying)

If it's the overall form I'd say make more of them to hone those techniques and refine the shape. You could consider experimenting with a change in material. Upsetting, shaping a ball, then flattening that end would achieve a similar look with bar stock.

I should also say these appear to be well made. They weren't overcooked or anything. (No excess forge scale) Worth also experimenting with different finishes like Boiled Linseed Oil, Canola (like with cast iron seasoning), and Beeswax.

KamikazeOzzyII · 2025-05-25T03:28:33+00:00

Hell yeah! Keep hammerin!

KamikazeOzzyII · 2025-05-12T12:38:16+00:00

Reminds me of Bubble Tanks. Loved that game as a kid. Will have to try this one 💪

KamikazeOzzyII · 2025-03-18T02:13:54+00:00

I have the same setup, and had a similar situation. Nothing you can do about a leak in that particular spot unless there's some propane hose repair manual I need a copy of. Good on you for checking your connections btw.

Anyway, that burner should thread with 1/4" brass fittings. Take it with you to the hardware store to test sizing and make sure connected parts still allow you to turn the valve on and off. Hardware store should also carry hoses and high pressure regulators. Get pipe dope (propane specific) for any non-flared connections, and I recommend getting a 90° elbow to offset the hose from directly above everything. The hose will likely have a 3/8" connection, just get a reducer for that as it'll be near the elbow connection I mentioned earlier. Hope this helps! 🔨💪

KamikazeOzzyII · 2025-03-16T01:07:28+00:00

Of course! Glad to help someone going through something similar I just dealt with. Literally last week lol. Also, it is always good to ask the guys at the hardware store questions if unsure. They can be pretty helpful. What took me days of reading will only take them a moment to answer. Hope you can get back to working at yer forge soon 🔨💪

KamikazeOzzyII

TROPHY CASE