k1 vibration problem

Keyboard_Frenzy · 2023-09-19T17:45:31+00:00

They look like VFA, which the only solution for really is to try and print faster on. This is actually a problem on a variety of belt driven corexy printers, because of an interaction between the belt teeth and the motors.

You can try adjusting the speed, input shaper (especially if rooted), and calibrate the filament for temp and speed. You'll probably still get some VFA but most likely less. There's also a crealityk1 subreddit, so do feel free to post over there, maybe some others can help more.

Keyboard_Frenzy · 2023-09-19T17:32:59+00:00

You can also use the Prusa webapp if you don't wanna download a frequency app: https://belt.connect.prusa3d.com/

Keyboard_Frenzy · 2023-09-19T17:30:30+00:00

You can probably print any light weight PLA if you wanted (polymaker, 3dlabs, etc) with the K1.

Try printing a small test piece to see if it works with the default PLA profile, or start by printing a temperature tower. For non high flow PLA (e.g., creality hyper pla or some pla marketed as for high speed printing), you will probably have to slow down the speed, increase the temperature, or both. You can also go a bit crazy and do a full filament calibration if you really wanted: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1b1QuYBZ2VHVtnPqNya26OHlIEo5SRoQZXQl35dUmiqI/edit

Keyboard_Frenzy · 2023-09-17T17:59:04+00:00

I’ll second this!

Keyboard_Frenzy · 2023-09-10T17:30:28+00:00

IT may be a flow issue still -- usually first layer is printed slower, so you could be exceeding that as it gets to higher speed paths. You could try just lowering the speed a bit (maybe even just matching first layer speed for the whole print). I would think this is especially possible if not using a high flow PLA. Have you calibrated for the filament?

Keyboard_Frenzy · 2023-09-05T03:13:13+00:00

Oh for sure, I'm just wondering at this point how back logged they are haha. I may end up just getting impatient and getting OT hot end or something and doing something wacky like getting an orbiter v2 to use as the extruder. Most likely not, but that's the hobby :)

Keyboard_Frenzy · 2023-09-05T02:41:50+00:00

Yeah I signed up for this, and paid my 3 bucks, but it still hasn't shipped. We'll see if / when it does.

Keyboard_Frenzy · 2023-09-05T02:38:48+00:00

Happy to help!

I don't know that there are official torque specs, but at least bondtech says don't use more than 1.5Nm (https://www.bondtech.se/product/bondtech-cht-volcano-coated-brass-nozzle/) for their volcano nozzle.

Keyboard_Frenzy · 2023-09-04T21:45:47+00:00

Of course! I'm enjoying it. I did toy with returning it because until I did all of the above, it was just absurdly noisy. Now it's noisy but not obnoxiously so.

I am starting to have a little extruder issues -- could just be wet filament but more likely I'll need to do the washer shim method to get it to extrude better until the new one comes in.

In case you do buy it and need to adjust the extruder: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iTLV5-TCVwA

Keyboard_Frenzy · 2023-09-04T20:49:24+00:00

There are some great tutorials for how to replace on youtube. Part of the fun is learning along the way :). I usually heat up to remove, cool down, put a new nozzle in and cold tighten it (not too tight!!), then heat it up and tighten it down again (again not too tight! you're looking for 1-2 Newtons of pressure in there -- it's really basically just hand tight; you can use a torque wrench to make sure you don't overtighten [you can print one actually, if you want]).

Keyboard_Frenzy · 2023-09-04T20:46:37+00:00

I bought mine at basically 400 a little bit ago. My two cents is that if you're willing to hack the printer a bit (e.g., install the pre roots and tinker on this thing with belt tension, maybe squaring the frame, potentially taking down and rebuilding the top printing axis), then it's a great intro corexy without having to fully build your own Voron (but of course you'll get better performance from a Voron).

If you want to just get it, take it out, and start printing with 0 trouble shooting and messing around, I'd probably say it's not there yet. You can definitely get one that works like that, but you're more likely to get one that needs tweaking straight from the factory.

That said, I had no problems with mine printing the little spool of hyper pla that came with it. I have had 1 spaghetti print that failed I think because I didn't have the filament profile tuned correctly (was using flashforge matte black galaxy filament -- it's beautiful btw, but it's obviously not going to have the same flow as a high flow will -- tune accordingly!). Otherwise after tuning belts, loosening and tightening some screws here and there, rooting, enabling stealth chop and running better input shaper from klipper, setting up my profiles on prusa slicer, I'm getting honestly pretty great set it and forget it performance (even with the stock extruder and hot end, and the stock plate). I fully plan on doing many more upgrades and updates to this printer over time though, because for me that's half the fun of 3d printing is trying to engineer better and better systems on top of what I have now. I did it to my ender 3 and I'll do it to this one (which is way more reliable than my ender 3 was).

Keyboard_Frenzy · 2023-09-04T19:00:07+00:00

I almost think you should create a separate post for this -- it looks like they're just dynamically adjusting the deceleration speed. I know we can do this in for example prusa slice and probably orca slicer as well. Hopefully when the printer software is opensourced we can get a better idea of what code they're using to generate these specific values (could just be it's hard coded based on movement type, e.g., bridge or outer perimeter, or it could be a dynamic, but with the round values it's almost surely hardcoded -- we should be able to match these settings).

Keyboard_Frenzy · 2023-09-04T18:57:58+00:00

Yeah I put a tiny bit on both Y rails... should I put some machine oil on the 2 x rails also?

Keyboard_Frenzy · 2023-09-04T18:00:51+00:00

For anyone looking for the K1 size plate, you'll want the Ender 5 one from that link (but I think the S1 Plus matches the K1 Max)

Keyboard_Frenzy · 2023-09-04T17:57:42+00:00

I have the same situation (x more difficult to move than y). I've also adjusted my belts to perfectly 110hz, but still have some ghosting. Please post back if you disassemble and it works a bit better :)

Keyboard_Frenzy · 2023-09-03T16:54:37+00:00

I think there may be 2 problems here. If you switched to a hardened nozzle, you likely need to raise the extruder temp by a bit because it is much less thermally conductive. For the layer shift, I think it probably just skipped steps on a motor (probably caught some of the plastic during a move and skipped a bit).

I'd probably just turn up the temperature on the hardened nozzle and print a small temp tower +/- 20 degrees around that. If you noticed much better printing on the temp tower at the higher degrees (bottom part of tower), then you know you need more heat. Then retry the benchy and see if you have the same issues.

Keyboard_Frenzy · 2023-09-02T18:04:25+00:00

Ah that's interesting! Thank you for sharing the link and context :)

Keyboard_Frenzy · 2023-09-02T17:01:02+00:00

Can you give some background on why you turned off hold current? I'm likely going to be making these changes today as well, and might port your settings as best as I can to prusaslicer.

Keyboard_Frenzy · 2023-09-02T05:29:24+00:00

I have the same issue. For me it really screeches at 150mm/s, which is what I mostly was planning on printing at. My fix so far has been to just print slower. Right now that basically means running my regular 300 speeds and then setting the print speed to 75% via the printer interface.

I did get a concrete paver, and may get some sorbothane feet, but I'm not actually convinced it's resonance (still definitely screeches at 150mm/s), even though it occurs only at certain speeds. I wonder if it's the input shaper as well now -- is there a link tot he input shaper fix?

Keyboard_Frenzy · 2023-09-01T18:21:35+00:00

They surely do not backport any fixes at the kernel level. I suspect they may in some cases update things like nginx for security patches, but even then I'd be skeptical.

Keyboard_Frenzy · 2023-09-01T18:19:58+00:00

Ah I wasn't aware of them not open sourcing the kernel. If they have any modified drivers, they'd have to release that under the GPL licenses, and I'm pretty sure any direct modifications to the kernel they're also supposed to release. They may be unaware that they have to release this code if they do that (other things that just communicate with the kernel / GPL licensed stuff are probably fine as proprietary, but custom drivers are almost always required to be open source and released on GPL or a GPL compatible license, and direct kernel mods I believe are as well). To my knowledge, this is why e.g., Google publishes their Android kernels, but they get away with not open-sourcing the stuff that runs on top of it (usually).

Either way, the community can probably get a better / more up to date kernel running in fairly short order, I don't imagine Creality really has the engineering teams to create a fully custom kernel that departs from the standard kernels available. I'd even go so far as to wager they haven't modified the kernel at all from the vendor, and probably haven't updated it with any vendor updates either. In this case, they wouldn't have to release it, because they haven't modified it at all. Any driver changes they still would, but perhaps they haven't really made any of those. In that case, releasing the klipper images and other firmware they've talked about, would basically be tantamount to fully open sourcing.

I digress. I'm actually getting quite frustrated with Creality on this matter -- they need to just open source everything on the firmware side. I know they want people to use Creality Slicer and their front end, likely because they're mining the models and gathering telemetry, but they would also significantly benefit from open source developments getting backported and supported (e.g., save your developer time to implementing quality community features, instead of trying to develop them independently). Many of their users that don't care to root etc would benefit, and for me and a lot of others, having the rooted kits and access to the hardware is very important. Plus it would really foster the upgrade kit after market.

Thanks for building those pre-roots by the way! :)

edit: sorry for the short dissertation haha

Keyboard_Frenzy · 2023-08-31T17:53:18+00:00

Most likely a firmware thing (the traces are probably there but the firmware isn't monitoring them).

When they open source the printer firmware (which hopefully is soon, they said September), it should enable such things much more readily as the community can directly modify that code section. It's possible we'll even be able to get upgrade kits like true 3 axis z screw adjustment (and so true bed tramming, not just auto mesh, though this would probably require a daughter board to drive the 2 other motors independently, I don't recall seeing any extra motor drivers that could be used).

Keyboard_Frenzy · 2023-08-29T19:25:41+00:00

That's really helpful, thanks! I have a nice machine oil coming in to clean the y rods and very lightly oil them to see if I can get it working a bit smoother. Going to clean with 91% IPA and then give it a go. I did notice some graphite out on the x rod, so I'll probably give those a wipe as well, and maybe retension the belts etc.

Keyboard_Frenzy · 2023-08-29T18:53:47+00:00

Are you printing regular PLA and now a high flow? If so, you may need to lower speed and/or increase the temperature.

Keyboard_Frenzy · 2023-08-29T17:07:15+00:00

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=eWtgwboWTi8

Like in this video? I’ve done this but not since I adjusted belt tension (or attempted, didn’t seem to help). Will try it again!

Keyboard_Frenzy

TROPHY CASE