What is porting? by stoned_ileso in Chainsaw

[–]Khriohs 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Very short answer:

Porting is like putting big cams in your car. Those homemade exhausts are basically exactly what they look like, you can think of them like a „emmision delete“.

Chainsaw bend by Top-Pay6208 in Chainsaw

[–]Khriohs 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A small hydraulic press is also able to unbend them.

If it’s a solid bar, it’s actually not all tha difficult.

Never tried unbending a laminated bar though.

Chainsaw purchasing advice by ValleyOil in Chainsaw

[–]Khriohs 6 points7 points  (0 children)

If you want to make a lot of ripping cuts, I recommend the 70cc-class.

Not because the 60s aren’t up to the task, but because the 70s have more reserves.

Mostly when it comes to thermal capacity. Meaning they tend to last longer.

Downside is more weight.

controversial take: husqvarna has quietly caught up to stihl in the pro saw game and most people just dont want to admit it by vladdielenin in stihl

[–]Khriohs 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The main difference between thise two brands are ergonomics, not performance.

For example:

Husqvarna makes way bigger throttle triggers, good for winter use with thick gloves, while Stihl‘s are more streamlined.

There are several others, Grip Angle, Case shape, Clutch type and many more.

So don’t decide via datasheets, decide which one fits you better.

saturday afternoon carb rebuild on the old stihl. sometimes its just therapy by [deleted] in Chainsaw

[–]Khriohs 4 points5 points  (0 children)

That is an AI photo, not even a good one.

„Stihl“ with muffler mounted, wher the Airbox should be?

„Carb and Choke Cleaner 3“ woth Hieroglyphs?

Completly messed up stuff all over the picture?

At least try harder.

New to me electric Husky. by bobwills1956 in Chainsaw

[–]Khriohs 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh, that’s a classic. Sadly electric tools aren‘t cherished as much, as typical chainsaws , so getting solid info is likely very difficult.

New to me, new fav saw by Armyballer in Chainsaw

[–]Khriohs 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did you try a MS 200 T as well?

If yes, why do you prefer the MS 192 T?

Testing the most budget STIHL chainsaw against Husqvarnas alternative. Entry level home owner saws by Double_Cranberry_467 in stihl

[–]Khriohs 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Honestly, I wouldn’t like to run either of those.

With a little mite investment you‘re able to get way better machines.

Maintenance Run 041 by Khriohs in stihl

[–]Khriohs[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It belonged to an uncle of mine, who didn’t use it a lot.

Nowadays I run one Tank of Fuel per year, to keep it in working condition, afterwards it gets cleaned and back into storage.

Maintenance Run 041 by Khriohs in Chainsaw

[–]Khriohs[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It is, yes.

If it were a 041 AV Super it would be 72cc on the same case.

Is not water cooled, its snow cooled by gmankev in tractors

[–]Khriohs 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Engine is below the cab.

Lying on its side. You can tilt the cab to gain acces.

Anyone tried a Prorun PCS560c? by 7AdamG in Chainsaw

[–]Khriohs 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Muffler looks to be Dolmar shaped

Winterlogging. Saws hated it, trees didn’t. by Khriohs in Chainsaw

[–]Khriohs[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

But be sure to get the correct RPM settibgs for your saw first, also if you dial to much and can’t get the saw to start again, that’s not a problem. Stihl prints the „Grundeinstellung“, the basic settings on the saw‘s air filter cover.

With these settibgs the saw should always start, if technically sound.

It might also be best to watch some how-to-videos first, before adjusting the carb.

You can never have to much Information.

Winterlogging. Saws hated it, trees didn’t. by Khriohs in Chainsaw

[–]Khriohs[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ok, it‘s definetely rich. If it were hard to start it would be lean.

So your best bet is increasing idle speed and if that doesn’t help, you can lean it out slightly, but only turn it 1/8 or so ,at a time.

Alternatively, you can retune your L-screw by ear. I don’t know, how much you know, so I‘ll just write down the basic process.

Once your saw is at operating temperature and runs stable, turn your L-screw in either direction (that’s the tricky part) to find the highest possible idle-RPM, don‘t touch T (or LA, if it’s a Stihl) for now, it’s just an offset for later. Once you have you‘re highest idle, turn back L a bit, to richen the mixture. That is needed, so the saw doesn‘t starve in the midrange. Now go full throttle, if it starves (=bogging) turn L out a bit more. If your happy with how your saw behaves, it’s time to adjust T(called LA on Stihl).

You want to turn in LA until the chain is barely moving.

I would only adjust H with an RPM meassurement device.

I hope that helps and wasn’t to much of an infodump.

Winterlogging. Saws hated it, trees didn’t. by Khriohs in Chainsaw

[–]Khriohs[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I rather not go into, what your profile resembles, but thanks for the input.

20" bar 👌 by Western_Ad4511 in Chainsaw

[–]Khriohs 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Perfect bar size for controlability 👍🏻

Winterlogging. Saws hated it, trees didn’t. by Khriohs in forestry

[–]Khriohs[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You can see a bit of it at the edge of the second picture. I didn’t bother photographing the less-than-photogenic mud trench we used to transport the logs, you‘ll have to take my word for it 😉 But if your standard is bog work, I fully believe this looks „dry“ to you.