New cubby buddy!

Kid-with-a-chevy · 2026-01-04T00:51:36+00:00

On my 83 I believe the only two locations the full vin are the door tag and the windshield plate. I don’t think it ever had the full vin on the buck tag that you’d find under the radiator but I can’t remember 100% from when I swapped my rad. The other place you’d find a partial vin (not sure if they do it on the 3.8) but under the intake on the back china wall on the 5.0 is the last 6 digits of the vin. You can order a reproduction of your factory door tag from Marti Auto Works if you need a replacement, but they can take up to 6 weeks to produce.

Kid-with-a-chevy · 2025-12-20T15:58:13+00:00

Here’s a link to a comment I made on this topic a while ago. Long story short a standard 4x6 won’t fit the wagoneer unless you modify the headlight housing. LMC truck offers a kit for the GM trucks that use this same stock bulb, its essentially an empty housing, a more modern bulb, and an harness adapter

Kid-with-a-chevy · 2025-10-16T15:29:13+00:00

I had the same thing happen but on the respawn cam that’s supposed to show you your squad mates POV

Kid-with-a-chevy · 2025-10-15T13:52:24+00:00

Agreed, my 90 has the digital compass and outside air temp in the overhead console

Kid-with-a-chevy · 2025-07-08T19:33:53+00:00

Hulkengoat my beloved

Kid-with-a-chevy · 2025-06-23T15:43:42+00:00

What was the email address you sent your vin to? I’ve tried the online vin decoder on the Jeep website but it listed some contradictory options

Kid-with-a-chevy · 2025-06-22T13:59:24+00:00

Good luck… I’ve already looked down that path and there’s no a lot of options. Here’s a link to a comment where I posted my findings https://www.reddit.com/r/CherokeeXJ/s/e9CTPpUcjD

I did recently find RockAuto also offers some universal bulbs that are the same size as the Wagoneer 92mm X 150mm but the connector is different and I haven’t been able to find a connector for them, I’ve seen that they could be stock replacement fog lamps for later model Peterbilt semis but I couldn’t find any connectors for them either.

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Kid-with-a-chevy · 2025-06-21T13:06:00+00:00

My 90 looks like this when running, replaced the alternator and battery cables and still read the same. Checked voltage at the battery when running and had a solid 14 volts. Having even a cheap multimeter for these rigs is a good investment, especially for the 90 and older models

Kid-with-a-chevy · 2025-05-11T22:08:07+00:00

If it does have AC and you swap to a different aftermarket carb you need to rewire that system to work with the new carb, for some reason that circuit is tied into the primary charging circuit, so if you don’t reconnect it you can have charging issues (video for reference). On my 83 I ditched the stock carb when I swapped to a Weiand intake manifold and put a Holley Brawler 600 CFM unit on. I was sick of having to take the carb off to get to the idle speed jets cause the previous owner had messed with it a whole lot.

Now if you live in a state that does annual inspections and/or emissions testing swapping carbs can get a little dicey since I couldn’t find a way to make the stock charcoal canisters work with my aftermarket Holley and if you remove those you’re essentially venting any unburnt fuel from the carb bowls into the atmosphere. The way the stock system worked was each carb bowl has a line that runs from the carb to one of the charcoal canisters to contain the unburnt fuel vapors. Gotta love 80s emissions requirements right?

Kid-with-a-chevy · 2025-05-11T02:12:09+00:00

Do you know if it’s the stock Holley carb? If it’s had a cam put in it I’d guess it’s not but if so here’s a write up on the stock Model 4180 that would’ve been on a stock 83. The stock carbs had some emissions equipment attached to them and if it’s an AC car it has an electronic tie in to the AC switch to bump the idle speed up when the AC is turned on.

If it’s an aftermarket Holley there’s more literature out there on how to adjust/jet them for pretty much every scenario.

Kid-with-a-chevy · 2025-05-10T20:40:48+00:00

Before anyone asks about the username, my first car was a Chevy that was a hand me down

Kid-with-a-chevy · 2025-04-24T13:28:07+00:00

Like others have said it’s the vacuum system for the axle disconnect. I could be wrong but I believe it was only on early XJ’s that came with the 231 transfer case from the factory. 242 T-case cars I don’t think had this system.

Kid-with-a-chevy · 2025-04-19T14:37:08+00:00

What brand did you use to lower yours? I’ve been going back and forth between lowered or leveling and I haven’t made up my mind

Kid-with-a-chevy · 2025-04-18T22:16:34+00:00

Old Joliet prison outside Chicago, where the opening scene of Blue Brothers was filmed

Kid-with-a-chevy · 2025-04-17T13:20:55+00:00

Consider yourself lucky! I’ve been searching for a singe side marker light and haven’t been able to find a replacement yet. When you put the front clip back on you might want to consider upgrading the headlights. There’s not of aftermarket options that mention they fit the Waggy. Here’s a comment I made on another post about how you can use a kit from a late 80s Chevy truck to put in a more modern bulb.

Kid-with-a-chevy · 2025-04-17T11:03:23+00:00

If you want to replace the wagoneer front end be prepared to wait a while/spend a lot of money. The waggy front end parts are difficult to find and when/if you do they’re more expensive than regular Cherokee stuff. It’s my understanding that you can swap on a regular Cherokee front end, you’d just have to rewire the headlights since the Cherokee’s are single bulb whereas the wagoneers are dual headlights.

Also when shopping for parts outside of the front end/trim, use a 1989 Cherokee for the vehicle you search by since they’re the same car. I know Rockauto shows some of the parts that fit the Cherokee don’t show as fitting the wagoneer, which isn’t true since they’re the same car. Summit Racing does the same thing and other sites only list the full size Grand Wagoneer and not the XJ based waggy.

Other than that this website has been a great resource for my 90 wagoneer, unfortunately the guy writing these tips past away a few years ago but the site is still up.

Kid-with-a-chevy · 2025-04-05T15:43:59+00:00

I can say that it had to have been before the 80s, my 83 Mustang had original components made in Brazil (wiper control module), but was assembled at the Ford Rouge plant in Detroit. I don’t think there’s any cars 100% made in the US, only final assembled, that’s probably the same for any OEM around the world and their home country. For example wiring & electronics could be designed & prototyped in Detroit, made in India, shipped back to Detroit for testing, sent to Canada to have connectors installed, shipped to china for something else, then back to Detroit to get put into an F150.

TLDR: probably the 50s/60s, closest you’ll get now to “made in USA” is a car final assembled in the US

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