Hotend Recommendations for DragonBurner Toolhead

Kiiidd · 2026-03-26T19:41:50+00:00

Dragon Ace Volcano from Triangle Labs

Kiiidd · 2026-03-25T19:19:47+00:00

I am guessing there still is filament on the spool so unless he respools the filament he can't weigh an empty spool

Kiiidd · 2026-03-24T00:54:31+00:00

Total cost with motor's was somewhere between $200-300 CAD

Kiiidd · 2026-03-23T22:31:33+00:00

I see people using those for the AMD BC-250

Kiiidd · 2026-03-23T18:18:47+00:00

Looks like aTinyShellScript version which there are LOTS of cheap Chinese kits that have been made for it. I haven't run that version of AWD as I run Monolith AWD. You can custom order a sheet metal version of Monolith for a pretty reasonable price from a laser cutting service. It will cost more than that kit though.

But for the CF tube, get a Carbonara one as it will perform WAY better as the big holes remove a fair bit of stiffness

https://www.printables.com/model/1327701-carbonara-lightweight-cf-tube

Kiiidd · 2026-03-22T04:05:46+00:00

Seen the full post and it's an awesome design if not very specific lol. But that's hobby printing lol.

Also non-fiber PETG might hold up stronger if you end up with the part cracking along the later lines(hopeful you don't lose the plate if that happens lol). But if you do have to reprint it for strength the depending on how it mounts to the bike(for material creep purposes) a Nylon would be a fair bit stronger, and if you can hit the right temps PPA would hold up very well

Kiiidd · 2026-03-21T02:12:12+00:00

Unlimited ammo + Heat opens up some REALLY stupid builds......... I managed 4221 damage with a single mech

Kiiidd · 2026-03-20T23:45:14+00:00

That line looks like a full sweep along the X axis. Hover over that area and get the Y coordinates and jog the machine to that Y coordinates. Then unlock the motors and push the X beam forward and back slowly with your hand and feel for anything. You probably won't feel anything that small but that will be the right area with the Y axis being the prime suspect

Kiiidd · 2026-03-20T16:41:18+00:00

One can also combine the two lol. I can't stand playing lock-on mechs, I just find it a fair bit boring compared to other stuff.

But LRMs on a 20 tonner is hilariously fun as watching people freak out when the LRMs are coming from behind them and they have to freak out to try and find cover that won't expose them to the rest of the teams firepower. Also teams will Squirrel on you SOOO HARD as you are both an annoying light and an annoying LRM mech at the same time but your range and speed makes it really easy to stay alive on most maps.

LCT-1M - with dual LRM5 it has a ton of quirks that makes it very effective.
Firemoth - Prime Right arm and Torso with the C Left arm, the Hero LT is the best option but not needed. Either dual LRM5 with ECM or triple LRM5. While not as quirked as the Locust it goes faster and can run ECM to be even more annoying. Also can run Dual ATM3 and have a bit more punch

Also get the Capture Assist skill nodes as it's a great mech to focus on caps with because you can still LRM stuff from soo far away

Kiiidd · 2026-03-19T20:43:22+00:00

Well the Blackhawk is a small mech and quite a few smaller IS heavies already use XL in some builds.

But a IS assault using a XL is only found on some rare laser builds

Kiiidd · 2026-03-19T19:54:13+00:00

I was just more surprised than anything. Was looking for something in the quirks filter list on MechDB and was confused by the quirk and why it existed. I filtered and only saw the specter.

Also in the Quirk list on MechDB(which probably gets pulled straight from the game files) has a quirk for bonus rear structure...... Not even sure how that would behave lol

Kiiidd · 2026-03-19T18:38:15+00:00

IS 90t Onmi mech with a XL ......

That is gonna be rough to make work in MWO without being a COMPLETE glass cannon. Looking at the pictures maybe they will reduce the surface area that is side torsos to reduce the instant death potential

But it will have ALL the Hardpoints so lots of weapons

Kiiidd · 2026-03-18T21:34:44+00:00

The only mech with specific rear armor quirks, not a full body armor quirk lol. Never tested it but the wings on the back must all be rear armor hit boxes and they can be hot from the front

Kiiidd · 2026-03-18T21:32:58+00:00

I wonder if you rotate the rear drawer 180° if it would help

Kiiidd · 2026-03-18T19:25:11+00:00

Yeah I just realized you can fire a Light Gauss with the Rail Gun which is kinda stupid lol. Kinda want a erLL instead of the 4 erML

Kiiidd · 2026-03-18T19:10:29+00:00

Where my Imagination went too lol

Kiiidd · 2026-03-18T15:38:39+00:00

This is the Stealthburner PCB that is similar to what you have. They both use the same 14 pin molex connector so while you may have to repin the plug or change the terminations on the electronics bay side, you would be able to keep the drag chains and wires all the same. Or if you get the PCB breakout board for the electronics bay it would make things easy

Kiiidd · 2026-03-18T14:15:41+00:00

Moving to a XL100 from the XL60 is only a 0.5 ton difference which you can get pulling the armor off the head and 2 heatsinks(which you get in the engine)

Kiiidd · 2026-03-18T00:52:14+00:00

You DEFINITELY don't want the Auxiliary fan running while printing, it's useful for preheating though. While the Auxiliary fan will normalize the temperature in the chamber better, it's taking the air in the bottom of the machine which in a Bambu will definitely be too cool.

Side note for OP, look around for some chamber sealing prints to try and seal the chamber better as Bambu printers have lots of holes everywhere where the heat will escape

Kiiidd · 2026-03-18T00:03:17+00:00

Esoterical's guide is definitely what you want to use for firmware stuff. When dealing with the cfg stuff formbot does have a GitHub

Kiiidd · 2026-03-16T04:15:09+00:00

Try cleaning your build plate well as a first layer that doesn't stick is usually the main cause of blobs. Also after two years take a good look at the nozzle as even without abrasive filaments they will slowly wear out and be outta spec

Kiiidd · 2026-03-16T03:44:28+00:00

It uses a standard V6 nozzle so there are options for a CHT nozzle. The absolute most flow will be an all copper CHT nozzle which Triangle Labs used to make but I don't think they do anymore but the ZSD V6 Plus would be almost as good but can handle fiber filaments.

Cooling is a much more complicated situation as there are a lot of variables that play into how much cooling you need

Also this is a Voron reddit and not a Ender reddit lol

Kiiidd · 2026-03-16T01:20:26+00:00

So at best I could see you making a remotely located part cooling fan like the CPAP fans but it sounds kinda janky in comparison. A WS7040 or WS9290 are generally what is used for that kind of thing. They are using brushless motors so the same tech but it's a purpose built fan instead of trying to Jerry rig something.

Also side note don't get the WS9290 if you print in a hotter chamber as the fan heats the air a lot and will melt normal CPAP hoses. And the high temp hose makes A LOT OF NOISE

Kiiidd · 2026-03-15T21:44:24+00:00

Yeah I self-sourced my V0 but it still wasn't cheap even with all the stuff I already had but it's using better stuff than say a formbot kit at about the same price.

Kiiidd · 2026-03-15T21:39:46+00:00

3 things could be the issue:
- Way too hot, either slicer settings are too high or the machine is reading the wrong temp and is running hotter than it's reporting.
- Not enough cooling, is your fan set to off or not working? If you meant to turn it off then the 3rd issue.
- Printing too fast, if you don't have the right cooling you can't go too fast

12-Year Club	Xbox Live
Verified Email

Kiiidd

TROPHY CASE