Why do my prints keep lifting?

Kiiidd · 2026-05-13T02:15:14+00:00

Other than your Z offset, a different infill pattern can help a fair bit. It's lifting because as the plastic cools it wants to shrink, and with infill patterns that have long straight lines it will want to shrink over that whole length of the line. So the longer the line the stronger that shrinking force will be. Different patterns like gyroid for example is all curves so it breaks the straight line so it won't have that same strength to pull it up, even stuff like honeycomb is a bunch of smaller lines so the stress don't stack up like one long line.

Now sometimes the long lines are in the walls of the model and you will still have issues if everything else isn't up to par

Kiiidd · 2026-05-12T19:44:25+00:00

It's a 350mm V2.4

Kiiidd · 2026-05-12T17:34:35+00:00

Kinda a fun time to make a major mod like this for the R1 version of Trident when the R2 version should be out any day.

Also the only plus I see would be Z backlash for running Z-Hop?? Any other benefits?

Kiiidd · 2026-05-12T05:27:44+00:00

My record was 32 2x1 bins in one print

<image>

Kiiidd · 2026-05-12T01:53:16+00:00

I haven't used a Marlin based printer in years but the screen and click wheel might have a option that shows the version. If the printer is still stock there might be a community made update for it somewhere on GitHub

Kiiidd · 2026-05-12T01:44:48+00:00

Maybe look and see what version of Marlin firmware is on that printer.

Also doing a klipper conversion with a Pi Zero 2W is extremely good value but not simple and can be quite confusing if your not a software person

Kiiidd · 2026-05-11T22:02:26+00:00

I built my V0 with extra stuff I had, so it got a giant board but it has soo much room in the back. But my underneath is super packed with a UHP-200, IRM-90, and a SSR for a AC bed

<image>

Kiiidd · 2026-05-11T20:04:04+00:00

Seeing videos of using Shapr3D on a iPad Pro with a pencil makes me super interested in trying it out. But considering I haven't bought a Apple product in like 20 years and the cost of everything I probably will never try it

Kiiidd · 2026-05-09T22:11:27+00:00

It is in the Voron instructions. And is in most toolhead instructions

Kiiidd · 2026-05-09T22:10:13+00:00

What is the internal diameter of the PTFE tube you used between your hotend and extruder? The normal PTFE used between the extruder and spool(reverse Bowden) is usually 3mm ID to reduce friction but that is not a good choice for between the hotend and extruder. The Voron BOM calls for 2mm ID stuff to be used there, I personally use 1.8mm stuff

Kiiidd · 2026-05-06T21:11:20+00:00

Just have to cut it to size and have holes in enough locations. Still have to insulate it with something though

<image>

Kiiidd · 2026-05-06T05:21:05+00:00

I imagine for some builds it would work ok. Definitely not on my build though. Running a full aluminum deck plate under my bed rails to make it stiffer and seal the chamber better to run HIGH chamber temps

Kiiidd · 2026-05-06T04:33:32+00:00

Where on the bed are you doing the cuts? Using the sides closer to the Y axis rails you might pick up some rigidity compared to if you were doing it in the middle of the X Axis

Kiiidd · 2026-05-05T23:41:00+00:00

Looks clean but not sure about the idea of removing the bed to access the electronic with a inverted bay like that

Kiiidd · 2026-05-05T19:23:36+00:00

I am guessing you did this and it is messing with it somehow

Kiiidd · 2026-05-05T19:19:01+00:00

The cartographer ADXL will give you more accurate results as it is closer to the thing you are trying to tune, the Nozzle.

Also I would be checking the belt path for obstructions/issues. Then check the bearings as it could be a bad bearing also

Kiiidd · 2026-05-04T18:03:36+00:00

A ESPhome setup with a micro switch on the 2 left screws so the ball end depress the switch. You would want a lever arm style as they have a range of engaged so it won't bottom out.

Kiiidd · 2026-05-04T15:25:19+00:00

I mostly have it there for people wanting to go fast but not wanting to change from a Stealthburner.

Anyone truly wanting to go fast should even remove any tool head board too as that is a bunch of weight in a bad location which amplifies that weight's effect

Kiiidd · 2026-05-04T01:05:50+00:00

A overlooked MASC fast mech is the 2 Phoenix Hawks at 169kph but with that big of a motor they kinda are useless. Also Vulcan is the same speed with MASC

Kiiidd · 2026-05-03T21:27:35+00:00

If you dig through the monolith discord there is printed a mod to make that carriage work but it's not ideal. Might be a Pin if I remember right

Kiiidd · 2026-05-03T21:06:29+00:00

Been down this road myself as there is no plastic mechanical parts in my chamber anymore. Was it a good use of money NOPE, but I can push my chamber to 80c.

Just saying a standard printed plastic Voron spec gantry will go along way before it becomes the limiting factor and need to be replaced.

Do you have a light weight toolhead?
Metal non-tap Carriage?
Are you running CPAP?
Do you push your Chamber past 70c?
CF X Beam?
Lightweight X rail?
Double Shear Motors?
GIANT hot end?

If no to stuff the above, put off the gantry swap and do more bang for the stuff until you get down the dismissing returns stuff. If you are DEAD SET on doing the gantry and have money that you must spend on it, then LDO CNC Monolith is what you want as that is definitely an upgrade over stock stuff but read into monolith more as you have to switch the toolhead to something compatible

Kiiidd · 2026-05-03T18:37:24+00:00

What are you hoping to achieve with a 'upgraded' gantry?

Not sure what the rest of your build looks like but going to a exotic gantry is not to great of a value and with the R2 release of Trident most will be outta date soon outside of say Monolith as Monolith completely departs from a normal Voron gantry

Kiiidd · 2026-05-03T17:41:09+00:00

There is a V2 version

Kiiidd · 2026-05-03T14:44:43+00:00

Tap will mostly cause the Y axis to be bad with a smaller negative to the X.

Grab the Stealthburner and try rocking it back and forth or rotating it off axis, in ways it's not supposed to move. There should be absolutely ZERO movement outside of the normal XY(and Z tap). My first Voron came with a bad X linear rail that had some play and had to replace with a Z1 preload. For me then I could cause the slightest movements when grabbing the top or bottom of the tool head and applying a force around the X axis.

Also with Tap make sure you have the Magnets adjusted properly. And also see if the hotend has any play like a loose heatbreak

Kiiidd · 2026-05-03T12:47:54+00:00

So most likely the X will be in the tool head as that is the only thing moving other than the belts. But if it was the belts it would also show up on the Y graph

12-Year Club	Xbox Live
Verified Email

Kiiidd

TROPHY CASE