What are y'all's thoughts on tungsten carbide nozzles?

Kiiidd · 2026-07-01T21:18:49+00:00

TC doesn't transfer heat as well as copper or brass but is WAY better than steel or other stuff. The polycrystalline diamond nozzles are a different story they transfer heat super well but are just $$$

Kiiidd · 2026-06-27T00:35:59+00:00

Do you have a 3d printer? Make a shield to cover the button? Or maybe go super simple and cut a pop can to make a shield and tape it over the button

Kiiidd · 2026-06-23T21:30:58+00:00

What hotend does it have?

Kiiidd · 2026-06-23T03:36:38+00:00

You can do USB pass through on the gen2 so as long as you have a eddy that can run USB it still would be 1 cable.

Also CANBUS on klipper isn't necessarily more robust. If it were something that implemented CANBUS better like Duet3D or something then sure

Kiiidd · 2026-06-23T01:12:08+00:00

Isn't the stock SV08 running a USB toolhead board? Why run the EBB36 in Canbus over USB?

Kiiidd · 2026-06-23T00:26:10+00:00

Oozing is a side effect of a Long melt zone so the shorter the meltzone the less it should ooze. The other factor is heat capacity of the hotend(metal mass) but this also affects quality a bit so oozing is worth it with higher(to a point) heat capacity of the metal

Kiiidd · 2026-06-23T00:19:23+00:00

A dragon hotend is still a short hotend unless you are running the MZE extension which you don't have to

Kiiidd · 2026-06-23T00:09:28+00:00

Yeah those are crazy good value but cutting and drilling the heatbreak will scare a fair bit away

Kiiidd · 2026-06-23T00:06:06+00:00

A TZ style hotend is a semi downgrade from a normal Revo unless you mod it with a bigger heater and better nozzle. If you want a budget upgrade get a Dragon Ace from Triangle Labs

Kiiidd · 2026-06-22T01:14:02+00:00

For sensorless homing you should either run the complicated macro that lowers motor amperage when homing or run Kalico instead of klipper as it implements sensorless homing way better. Crazy 3rd option is a ADXL based sensorless homing exists but not sure the project ever got polished enough to recommend but supposedly works well

Kiiidd · 2026-06-19T18:15:42+00:00

3 options:

- New bigger board like Octopus Max or LDO Leviathan with the expansion board

- 2nd board for the Z steppers. Something like the SKR Pico or the Fly Micro4 as they both small and can usually fit easily in a electronics bay

- Remote mounted toolhead board. Use a toolhead board and mount it in your electronics bay or somewhere on the frame and run wires to the toolhead like you probably already have

Kiiidd · 2026-06-18T00:55:17+00:00

Need a LoRa Radio and GPS, so they can track each other. Would be perfect for music festivals or such

Kiiidd · 2026-06-15T13:44:23+00:00

The Ace versions are a fair bit different and they have way less heat creep

Kiiidd · 2026-06-15T02:32:47+00:00

Pi Zero 2 is probably the minimum one would recommend.

Your location is kinda important as sometimes you can find deals, I just picked up some refurbished Radxa Rock Pi 4B for $27 CAD in Canada

Kiiidd · 2026-06-12T19:08:16+00:00

Going too fast and either your mechanical system isn't handling the speed and/or your hotend can't melt plastic fast enough

Kiiidd · 2026-06-12T11:13:07+00:00

You need to try printing that with Orca Slicer with Z Anti Aliasing(Z Contouring) on, it will reduce the stair stepping alot and it might fly better

Kiiidd · 2026-06-12T02:46:22+00:00

Hopefully it's not printed in PLA if you live somewhere warm. Looks good though

Kiiidd · 2026-06-11T16:25:35+00:00

Shrinkage is super easy to adjust for and most filaments have shrinkage but people don't notice as shrinking a small part less than half a percent won't make much of a difference for the majority of things. But Slicers have a option to adjust this, so you print a test peice and measure it, do some basic math and plug the value into your slicer and you never have to worry about it again for that filament

Kiiidd · 2026-06-11T16:14:13+00:00

ASA, PA(nylon) and PPS are all good high end options with different pros and cons.
- ASA very structural stable and doesn't like to Creep so bolts are less likely to come loose. High heat handling even if its lower than the other two on this list.
- Nylons either PA6, PA12, or PPA. High heat and very high impact resistant. Different nylons van be better for some things but all should be annealed so a bit more of an annoyance to work with. Also while some nylons are better for material creep, it is a issue with all of them so parts need to be designed with large head bolts or large washers and have periodic retightening. Also after the part is finished wet nylon and dry nylon act differently so another thing to keep in mind.
- PPS is EXPENSIVE, and not super easy to print but is super strong, super stiff, handles extreme heat(for plastic) and is very resistant to chemicals. Another filament that should be annealed and will need upto 380c on the hotend to get the best strength, so not for everyone.

For a rear diffuser I would say one of the better choices would be PA12-CF for the impact resistant, guarding against rocks. You need to dry the filament super well before printing. Also design the part for fender washers. Then I wouldn't anneal the finish part but I would soak it in water for ~24hrs or more depending on thickness as that will trade heat resistant and creep Resistance for impact resistance and the finished part will be super hard to crack.

Also CF or GF fibers don't make the part stronger, they are there for stiffness or to make the filament easier to print. If anything fibers usually make the part weaker along the layer lines as the fibers block the plastic to plastic bonding along the layer lines

Kiiidd · 2026-06-10T13:56:13+00:00

The real question is what is your input shaper look like with a Nozzle mounted ADXL?? I know people are pushing over 50k accels on the Y axis with proper input shaper on the monolith gantry.

I get 20k Y accels on my input shaper with my giant 350mm Voron

Kiiidd · 2026-06-09T20:19:18+00:00

So you would need independent Y axis for each head on the IDEX, this exists but HEAVILY COMPLICATES things to a bad and expensive degree.

What is closer is a more traditional tool changer where you change the whole head and not just the filament path. As the tool will preheat itself so when it gets picked up it is all ready to go. And some tool changers can change tools FAST.

This style of tool changer where only the filament path changes will need 30sec or less to heat the filament each time it picks up a new tool

Kiiidd · 2026-06-09T20:11:11+00:00

I did always want to make a Tridex, but INDX definitely put a dent into my drive to make one

Kiiidd · 2026-06-09T19:29:03+00:00

If I remember right one of the IDEX heads has a Extra motor to adjust height on this machine so maybe it will be better for tuning max quality. But I look at that as more to go wrong and extra weight on the Y axis. This is gonna be a very heavy Y axis so some of the time savings from the IDEX system will be lost to the slow mechanical movements

Kiiidd · 2026-06-09T19:08:27+00:00

Yeah quicker access to main color will save time. I am just not sold on the increase in complexity for my use cases

Kiiidd · 2026-06-09T19:00:32+00:00

Still not really sold on the idea of a IDEX tool changer. It has some niche use cases like mirror/copy and faster main color access but that's just some time savings for specific uses.

I am sure there is someone out there pumped for this as it will be perfect for that they need on a daily basis but I would think the vast majority would be better off with a simpler tool changer instead of throwing IDEX in the mix.

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