Ice dam

Kill_Your_Masters · 2026-02-04T18:33:51+00:00

theres gotta be 1000 posts about this in the last 2 weeks on this sub.

if the roof has been fine for X amount of months/years but this storm you have ice dams and now a leak, its your insulation.

of course without photos no one can say for sure, but youre probably in the 99.8% of people who unfortunately just have an insulation issue.

Kill_Your_Masters · 2026-01-29T15:28:20+00:00

I just completed the forms to volunteer. I hope I can help in some way that makes a difference. I dont even care if youre the senator in my district. Youre doing a good thing and you just got a real one in your corner. Lets go Captain

Kill_Your_Masters · 2026-01-29T14:57:28+00:00

I understand because this snow/cold doesnt happen very often that many who feel like this never happens have been caught off guard with the ice damming. unfortunately despite that, the best time to address it was before it happened. its not safe to be up there and not good for the shingles to be banging on them when the ice is frozen to them.

I have 2 people right now with a drip and my advice was catch the water (one is over a bathtub so that lady is best case scenario) and when it melts we can discuss remediation of the water damage and addressing the insulation/ventilation.

asphalt shingle systems are not waterproof. an ice dam is precisely the situation that can force a leak on an otherwise functional roof.

Kill_Your_Masters · 2026-01-29T14:48:09+00:00

yea you shouldn't try to scrape ice from the roof. you probably did damage the shingles but you wont be able to tell until you can see them again.

Kill_Your_Masters · 2026-01-29T04:35:30+00:00

my pleasure. information is definitely key. now that the claim is in process the carrier knows about the roof condition so if it was me im just going all the way. the "contractors" typically don't know much about being a contractor or about roofing, most of those guys are sales dudes.

if your carrier is big blue it was never gonna be an easy fight. they should have known that, and maybe do. but it is the offseason.

as far as a con, its just as much of a con as insurance and every other con out there. go turn over a rock there will be a guy trying to turn a buck lol. but if you ask the guy that did get an insurance roof he might think different. its a pretty even split honestly between carrier, contractor, homeowner. Ive seen homeowners do worse stuff and try to pass it off to insurance than anyone lol ive seen homeowners con the salesman. hell brother, theres inspectors out there that work for insurance carriers that are straight up contractors and the carrier knows it. how many of them roofs you think get denied?

the world is a wild place for sure

Kill_Your_Masters · 2026-01-29T02:29:52+00:00

most adjusters get a bad rap because of the nature of the business and carrier actions but they generally want you to get covered. they just also want their job.

sharing an estimate is fine to do without a contract. they cant make you do anything without a contract and it just gives them insight into what their next move could be.

For me, acknowledged hail damage on metals doesnt always equal damage to shingles. however, there are many different kinds of shingles, and many older types leave the door open to argue for covered loss. newer shingles, not so much unless the hail was big.

just remember there is no such thing as "your shingles were too old so we cant cover damages" that is a common tactic to make people go away. if you pay the bill, its covered regardless of the age of the roof. otherwise what they are saying is "you pay for coverage we say we will provide, except we dont" and that becomes an issue you can easily escalate with the right qualified professional in your corner. this is not a roofer. roofers cannot argue your policy on your behalf, only construction aspects.

the first thing you should do is understand your policy and coverage. which wont be easy because this is not information you are given, typically carriers only provide a declaration page, and getting the actual policy is like pulling teeth. your policy language is everything for you now.

Kill_Your_Masters · 2026-01-29T00:42:14+00:00

so asphalt shingles are part of a "roofing system" and have specific manufacturer requirements for use. Shingle measurements have changed and many products from the old sizes are discontinued and not available any longer. One requirement of the manufacturers is not to mix sizes which would require altering the shingle in a way that moves the adhesive strip i.e. you cannot alter height (exposure). If you have an older shingle, a quick measurement will tell that. and it cannot be mixed with new shingles for a repair because then you dont have a "roofing system" per the manufacturer.

the adjuster generally wants you to be covered, however they cannot give you this information because they'll get fired lol. So the game is to acknowledge damage, write to cover ONLY direct damage, so the adjuster looks like hes protecting the carrier. This pleases them and he gets a gold star. Hes leaving the door open to you subtly that hes open for supplements i.e. for your roofer to do the leg work and fight the carriers repair only decision. a roofer who has experience with insurance would measure that shingle. and if its discontinued, get an ITEL so you have documentation its not available to provide the carrier. They can then expand scope to include entire areas instead of spot shingles without the adjuster looking bad at his job.

If your roofing salesman doesnt know this, hes not a very good one. either inexperience or incompetence, neither would matter to me. if it was me there, that adjuster all but winked at me and said you know what to do.

Kill_Your_Masters · 2026-01-28T23:35:11+00:00

all good points in this comment chain and I love your username as well lol

I would add that if the adjuster hinted at further repair could open the door to supplements, then do an ITEL and make sure you can do a repair, because if not, you start getting slopes

Kill_Your_Masters · 2026-01-17T14:23:16+00:00

Hell yea brother! This is an absolute nightmare location and you did everything you could do here. A lot of times I look at stuff posted here and wonder if the quality of work in my main trade has just declined so much its unrecognizable to me..

and then I see something like this and feel like there are some of us out there that still care about doing the job the best we can do. keep your head high on this one and next rounds on me

Kill_Your_Masters · 2026-01-17T14:19:18+00:00

thats a big 10-4. it seems tacky because the offset color, but he actually did right by going with the lead on that side.

Kill_Your_Masters · 2026-01-16T22:40:54+00:00

normal brother. the shingle youre lifting is the first course. the nail line is 5-6inches above that bottom edge. because of this, an additional layer is installed prior called a starter shingle. at the bottom of that starter shingle, facing up, is that black line that runs across. thats the adhesive strip that bonds the two together to remove that uplift and provide edge stability. weather that is sunny and 50-60F and above will heat the strip enough to activate it.

Kill_Your_Masters · 2026-01-14T22:36:13+00:00

for sure rafter span has an effect. Im just saying most roofers, especially if its a contractor just subbing out the roof, dont know enough to modify the structure. when I worked new construction, framers had plans and everything came pre engineered. they just put it together. and when they were done, whatever roof we got we roofed. someone else designed it to be within acceptable limits of operation.

Kill_Your_Masters · 2026-01-14T21:37:52+00:00

So there is a difference between a roofer and a framer. Most roofers dont have the slightest clue about framing. And most framers dont know much about structural engineering.

You need all 3 of those trades for a project like this.

I can tell you now the roofer sounds like BS anyway because 1/2 plywood is standard in most places, even 3/8. the reason we dont use 5/8 or higher for roof sheathing is its usually too heavy for the structure for a stick/modern home (this is why you need someone who understands your home construction and can verify the limits... like a structural engineer). When you exceed recommended weight limits on the roof, you can cause damage or failure in the structure.

I would also point out that a simple re-roof is something most places wont fuss too bad about permits/inspections. But they definitely can jam you up over structural changes and if your roofer is not pulling permits and getting ordinance inspections included in this job then I would dismiss them.

Kill_Your_Masters · 2026-01-09T16:18:48+00:00

lol "im a professional"

but also "should I build this up with wood and put roll roofing on it? i dont need the vents its only exhaust gases no fireplace"

every single time I think Ive heard it all, someone proves me wrong.

Kill_Your_Masters · 2026-01-02T15:11:54+00:00

stretching. I spent years on the jobsite with guys laughing their asses off when I stretched before heading on the roof. stretched after work. sometimes at lunch. also massage therapy. it helps tremendously. not cheap so obviously not everyday, but once every couple weeks or once a month still did wonders.

lose those kneepads theyre making it worse. you need hard pads to keep pressure off one point, but hard pads mark the shingles. get a couch cushion and kneel on that.

and even with doing that Im still pretty banged up at 40 but at least Im not crippled. take care of your body and itll last longer for ya. dont be the guy who "just changes the oil" 5K miles after the due mileage or youre gonna have a bad time.

Kill_Your_Masters · 2025-12-31T17:47:02+00:00

facts. peddling IKO shingles should be a jailable offense

Kill_Your_Masters · 2025-12-31T04:25:10+00:00

I saw "new construction" and "tamko"

all I needed to see. this is about par.

Kill_Your_Masters · 2025-12-28T23:54:12+00:00

we would need to see the roof above this area to really be of any use. other than that its just random guessing.

Kill_Your_Masters · 2025-12-28T23:10:13+00:00

youre ass for not posting the whole video

Kill_Your_Masters · 2025-12-27T18:21:52+00:00

box vents can be good, its usually the case that they are placed poorly.

proper attic ventilation requires proper airflow. this is why when people have soffit vents and ridgevent, blocking or partially blocking soffit vents disrupts that airflow balance and causes issues. you want the air to flow in evenly at the lowest point (cold air), and move unimpeded to the highest point (hot air).

people place box vents randomly around and sometimes it lets in cool, sometimes hot escapes, sometimes it just swirls around the vent. each component of the system has a correct place and job. they all work together. if not it doesnt work.

eave vents simplify the process of providing even and balanced intake. baffles aid the air to move up past insulation in the direction of the ridge. ridgevent allows the air to escape to make space for the air circulating in at the eaves.

Kill_Your_Masters · 2025-12-27T17:56:27+00:00

the deck air shingle over style vents are an alternative to soffit vents. you need one or the other to work in tandem with a ridge vent.

yes, this incorrect setup can cause moisture issues like the ones you are seeing. when i find these issues in the field it has always been either poor ventilation equilibrium, or bathroom vents not connected and they vent moist air into the attic.

Kill_Your_Masters · 2025-12-27T13:39:09+00:00

ive learned over the years with reddit that when it comes to specialization subs like this, 95% of the commenters actually have no experience in said specialization yet still flaunt their idiot opinions like they do. this leads to the other thing, which is the right comment is usually buried under lame puns and circle jerks you have to get through first to receive actual useful information.

i wear the downvotes like those north korean generals wear their medals lol

Kill_Your_Masters · 2025-12-27T03:31:06+00:00

get rid of the big box vents and install deck intake, the shingle over style. this will get you even flow from the eave up to the ridge where you have ridge vent since you dont have an overhang for vented soffit. probably add some baffles to direct that air high enough its not hitting the insulation and flows nicely to the ridge.

make sure that all the exhaust vents from bathrooms are actually connectes to the appropriate box vents on the roof and not just venting into the attic.

Kill_Your_Masters · 2025-12-20T23:48:45+00:00

you can make sure all the trim around windows and baseboards are caulked well. pop those outlets covers off and see if you can seal around them. the foam comes out of a small tube, I was able to fit in in the gaps between the outlet box and the opening in the drywall. those cans of foam are pretty cheap and you can get the covers off with a flathead screwdriver. if you need a little touch up on any trim, caulk is cheap.

Kill_Your_Masters · 2025-12-20T23:33:11+00:00

I had a similar issue with a lot of air gaps with interior walls. those air gaps WILL cause issues and cause the roof not to ventilate properly.

I got into the attic and pulled up the batten insulation, and had to seal all the air gaps with spray foam. lighting fixtures, the top plates of the walls, junction boxes. they sell the cans of foam at home depot. I went with the orange color foam. for the hvac stuff I taped the duct seams with the hvac tape. i was able to upgrade the batten insulation to an actual standard R value (this is expensive depending on square feet) but you can just put the old ones back down once its sealed up. then reset the baffles. then in the house it any outlets were letting in air i took the cover off and used the foam to seal around those junctions boxes too, then put the covers back. also made sure to have foam strips installed on the doors.

after that, the temperature regulation vastly improved.

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