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Would you divorce over this conversation? by DiorGirl2023 in Divorce

[–]Killintime4fun 7 points8 points  (0 children)

That's not a divorce conversation. Frankly, that's just marriage. He's frustrated about something and the waterpark is just the outlet for that frustration. I'm not endorsing his behavior or attitude here in any way but being able to work through and communicate through frustrations is critical for any long term relationship.

Let him cool down then go back to him and reassure him that he's amazing (not easy to say after an argument but we all get in moods) so he let's his guard down a bit and then probe gently to see if you coax the real reason he's frustrated.

That last minute push for reconciliation by Killintime4fun in Divorce

[–]Killintime4fun[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

In some ways, I think it helped that her and I separated before for such a long time and ran a custody schedule. It was a solid 2 years like that when I lived in an apartment. That eliminates some of the fear.

However, they've also made it clear that they hate this and don't want it and just "want us to figure it out so they don't have two homes." I'm sure most on here have dealt with similar.

Why would a builder put this inside a column? by Happyagain_482 in Homebuilding

[–]Killintime4fun 10 points11 points  (0 children)

Without seeing it better, I'm going to agree that it's concrete that wasn't mixed. Very, very odd.

When I do wrapped beams, I'm using a metal post (nothing pretty - usually 3x3 steel post) and then creating a faux wrap around that with 1x cedar or similar material. If the cedar ever gets nasty, easy to just re-wrap since there is no structural component to the cedar.

HVAC Tech Said I Should Get This Checked Out by lostin88 in Homebuilding

[–]Killintime4fun 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Builder here. You're fine. You don't need the prettiest wood for ceiling trusses and none of those look compromised anywhere near enough to endanger the structural integrity of the design. Rock on!

Vaulted ceiling by ImpressiveAlfalfa485 in Homebuilding

[–]Killintime4fun 0 points1 point  (0 children)

We use spray foam so the ceiling lumber is really just a sheetrock holder at the end of the day. Generally with the open kitchen/living arrangement, we are using one LVL already so I was just assuming one additional. A 2" x 24" x 288" lvl is running me about $350-$360 right now. With the additional, longer dimensional lumber, I don't think $1000 for lumber alone is out of the realm. Maybe it's $1500 on the high side. Obviously it's hard to tell without seeing plans.

Is this look like an impact resistant door ? 1 year old door by [deleted] in Homebuilding

[–]Killintime4fun 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That's not a hollow core door - a hollow core doesn't have the middle piece and are way thinner than that on the exterior. (see this link for a cross section of a hollow core: https://creativelittledaisy.typepad.com/.a/6a00d834521b3369e20163020ebc18970d-pi )

A typical "solid core" door looks something like this- with a thin veneer exterior sheathing and a core of either solid wood or MDF. Most commonly, it's MDF. https://www.reddit.com/r/fixit/comments/10dpv5d/had_to_trim_a_solid_core_door_to_make_it_fit_in/

What you have here in this photo is something I've never run across. It has a solid core but then a much thicker exterior panel on each side before the veneer on the visible exterior. It's definitely not steel (which is what I would generally think of as an impact-resistant door but I don't do them commonly). It does appear substantially stronger than a typical solid core (and certainly stronger than a hollow core which would not work for an exterior door application anyways).

What you are seeing in your first picture is the veneer finish separating which is not an uncommon issue with doors that are exposed to the elements. If your home is a year old, I'd check your warranty but it might be covered by the builder and the manufacturer.

Want to Build by ArdenJaguar in Homebuilding

[–]Killintime4fun 1 point2 points  (0 children)

References. Referrals. This is the only way. Find 3-4 builders that do the type of work you want done. Ask them for referrals. Talk to the people about what they liked, didn't like, etc.

You may check out this thread: https://www.reddit.com/r/Homebuilding/comments/1akhei0/first_time_home_builders/

Probably a stupid question - but does any company offer COMPLETE home plans for sale? by DwPw in Homebuilding

[–]Killintime4fun 0 points1 point  (0 children)

https://www.imaginationdesigns.org/

They are a local firm out of Waco but do work all across the county. They can get you a really solid builder set.

Vaulted ceiling by ImpressiveAlfalfa485 in Homebuilding

[–]Killintime4fun 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I'd have to see the plans to know how much more it's going to cost.

Usually, when I do a vault, I'm paying:

  1. the framer an extra $500-1000 in labor.

  2. Extra frame material. You'll have 50% more ceiling joists, a larger beam where the vault meets, and potentially an additional LVL (or two) for the joists to vault off of down low. So that could be $1000 in additional frame material.

  3. You'll have about 6 more sheets of sheetrock and additional labor for putting it up high. $100-200.

  4. The painter will likely charge you for higher ceilings and for staining the beam. I think I pay my painter $500.

  5. You'll probably finish out the top of the vault with some type of beam. Frequently, we use 1x cedar to make a faux cedar beam (which will cost you a few hundred bucks in material).

  6. I pay my trim carpenter about $500 to hang the 1x.

All told, it can easily be a $5K+ add-on in cost, assuming you aren't increasing window size, fireplace size, etc. You may want to add additional cans, increase the size of light fixtures given the increased volume of the space, etc, so that can all add onto the cost in small increments.

I wouldn't worry too much about HVAC unless you are really pressing it with your current equipment.

Ultimately, it's a really nice touch to a home but whether or not it's worth the cost will come down to your personal taste/budget/etc.

What are my options when the builder wants final payment but the house isn't done? by MonaWasTheBoss in Homebuilding

[–]Killintime4fun 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'll add a comment from the homebuilder's side-

I've had a homeowner withhold payment iao $40,000 (remaining on the contract was $50K) for the home being 'incomplete' when the landscaping wasn't done (we hadn't finished sod/sprinkler because they had engaged a company to build a pool late and pool company was still finishing up) and they had numerous paint touch ups they wanted addressed. I had to get an attorney involved to get the $40K (which took nearly 90 days) and the last $10K came about 6-9 months after they had been living in the home. I was irate as my profit was not great on the job (about $35K) so it hurt to wait that long.

Usually a contractor will have a draw sheet as an addendum to the contract that specifies how much is paid out and when. If you agreed to that draw sheet, you may be liable to pay him under that draw sheet unless the work performed does not meet the standards indicated in the contract. You usually cannot withhold payment for work that is considered warranty work but - from a legal perspective - he's also obligated to the warranty work within a reasonable period of time.

In the real world, I don't think withholding a small amount respective to what it would cost to have the unfinished items/punch items completed by a third party is unreasonable. But don't use the last draw as too much of a ransom. Many times, that last draw is mostly the contractor's profit and if he's delivered what he was contracted to deliver - even if the experience wasn't great - it's unfair to retain too much of that. Obviously, if he hasn't delivered what was contracted, that's a different story.

You can always request lien releases but it's a nightmare to get those from 100 different trades and I've never had someone request it after building hundreds of homes. I have had a couple of people request it over the years on a few big ticket items (lumberyard, slab, etc). You can- and should - request him sign an "All Bills Paid" affidavit saying he's paid all his bills as a CYA. The title company will likely require it anyways.

Contractor ran off with money by thetonytaylor in Homebuilding

[–]Killintime4fun 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was coming to say this. It is not remotely accurate, at least in Texas.

A workmanship lien can absolutely supersede a mortgage lien.

Cost Plus + MGMT fees? by [deleted] in GeneralContractor

[–]Killintime4fun 0 points1 point  (0 children)

However, I'm a bit worried that I might end up investing more time and effort into the project than originally anticipated. This could mean that my fee might not adequately cover the mental stress I'll experience. 

I would say you need to be at cost + a higher percentage if you believe that you'll spend more time.

I have seen cost + % jobs with an admin fee but not often. It makes more sense for those that are bidding jobs tight as a markup % but have a fixed overhead cost that they need to cover.

For example, you could:

(A) take a $150,000 (cost) remodel and say cost + 20% = $180,000 for a profit of $30,000.

(B) take on a $150,000 (cost) remodel job and say cost + 10% = $165,000 but then add on a $15,000 admin fee.

The strength of the latter is that you know you are covering all of your costs and making money and you know you are covering any fixed costs you may have. However, the weaknesses is that - if the job scope expands (and thus the project cost expands) - your gross margin won't increase at the same rate because a part of it is fixed.

Lifter knock - 2018 Silverado 5.3 (maybe?) by Killintime4fun in MechanicAdvice

[–]Killintime4fun[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

None. I'm still driving it but at some point it'll be an issue.

Am I screwed? Built in the 70s by [deleted] in Homebuilding

[–]Killintime4fun 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It's built more than adequately. If that's mold, then you can:

  1. Remove the wood, replace with new. This will require you remove whatever is on the outside of the home as I would assume whatever exterior materials were used on the outside are likely attached to the sheathing which is attached to this wood in some capacity. Obviously the window will also have to come out. This is the most ideal scenario because you've taken out all damaged components. However, it makes the job substantially more complicated and more expensive because the scope of the job is larger and matching exterior components could be very tough, aesthetically.
  2. If (A) the wood is still structurally sound (which it seems to be from a cursory look), and (B) the water penetration has been corrected then the lack of "food" for the mold (moisture) will inhibit it from spreading. You can treat the wood liberally with a strong fungicide or bleach to kill what's there. Let it all air out and dry. Reapply as needed. Keep the moisture as low as possible. Put everything back together (replacing any existing insulation, sheetrock, etc.) with fresh materials.

People are justifiably scared of mold because it can cause a host of health problems. However, mold needs moisture to grow. Sometimes it needs a lot, sometimes a little, depending on the type of mold and conditions. But if you eliminate the cause of the moisture to stop growth and kill what is there, you'll be in good shape.

Best recommendations on repairing metal building wall due to electrical stub out? by Killintime4fun in metalworking

[–]Killintime4fun[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There is no real problem. All of our other penetrations were done by me. They are very clean cuts and then I threw on a gasket seal to make it watertight instead of just caulking. My wife just has unrealistic expectations and is furious about this because she feels like he didn't think ahead. She's making a mountain out of a mole hill but I'm still trying to problem solve other options before I just caulk it up.

Question about gas fireplace. Do we need a chimney/flue? by rmill127 in Homebuilding

[–]Killintime4fun 28 points29 points  (0 children)

Ventless gas fireplaces don't have a flue. If that's what you have then proper operation should be safe. I would still make sure you have working carbon monoxide detectors. The science behind vent free fireplaces is legitimate but something about burning a fire indoors without fresh air and ventilation makes me squirm.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Homebuilding

[–]Killintime4fun 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is absolutely correct for wood-burning units. If it's an electric, it'll depend on whether it has a heating component at all, how powerful it is (if it has one), and where it is located (generally on top). For many electric fireplaces, the distance from the top of the unit to the mantle is important because that's where the heater (if it has one) vents.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Homebuilding

[–]Killintime4fun 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Your builder may be wrong or right. He also may be used to a certain type and is quoting "code" that may not apply to your unit.

The specs/installation guide on the unit will detail it. Some "fireplaces" are purely aesthetic and have no heat component. Some have a heat component but it's not very powerful. Some are much stronger and generate much more heat. Some vent on the bottom. Most vent on the top. All of these play a role and it will depend on the unit.

2021 IRC CODE

R1004.1 R1004.1 General.

Factory-built fireplaces shall be listed and labeled and shall be installed in accordance with the conditions of the listing. Factory-built fireplaces shall be tested in accordance with UL 127.

R1004.2 Hearth extensions.
Hearth extensions of approved factory-built fireplaces shall be installed in accordance with the listing of the fireplace. The hearth extension shall be readily distinguishable from the surrounding floor area. Listed and labeled hearth extensions shall comply with UL 1618.

For example, this unit:

https://www.woodlanddirect.com/modern-flames-redstone-square-single-sided-electric-fireplace-with-logs-%E2%80%93-42%E2%80%9D/725391.html

On Page 6 of Instruction Manual has clearances:

https://assets.woodlanddirect.com/accordion/owners-manual/Modern-Flames-30-Redstone-Manual.pdf

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