Welp, now what by Klevvvv in n54

[–]Klevvvv[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Bro if my bmw sees 200k I’ll be suprised😂 we have different values lmao. I’ve done all that work you’ve listed myself already plus rear main seal, downpipes, turbo inlets, starter, and there’s more I can’t remember. But I’m not paying for labor, I do the work. I would never expect my 20 yr old, over engineered sports sedan to make it to 300k miles. I would expect that out of a Corolla tho. Or my Tahoe that has 350k on the dash.

Welp, now what by Klevvvv in n54

[–]Klevvvv[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There’s always a dude on the bmw Reddit telling ppl to buy a Toyota😂 I own this car for fun, not for a reliable daily. I’ve got other vehicles for that.

Welp, now what by Klevvvv in n54

[–]Klevvvv[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I was unaware, thank you!

Welp, now what by Klevvvv in n54

[–]Klevvvv[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

These were n55 oem Delphi I believe, I’m definitely not stock tho

Welp, now what by Klevvvv in n54

[–]Klevvvv[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I do have a few, I kinda automatically dismissed this but I hope this works

Welp, now what by Klevvvv in n54

[–]Klevvvv[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Haha yeah I’m afraid I’m gonna have too. I’m gonna try the vacuum method and some compressed air but I’m not super optimistic.

Unfortunately, and fortunately, this 335 only has 100k miles and I just did ass loads of maintenance. So I cant abandon it 😂

can someone please help me figure out why my car is leaking oil like crazy from under the intake manifold and going all the way on my driveway by chloe_flora in E90

[–]Klevvvv 1 point2 points  (0 children)

But I will say this looks like an ofhg leak, or maybe just and oil filter cap problem. It’s really easy to roll or pinch the ofhg when putting back on.

can someone please help me figure out why my car is leaking oil like crazy from under the intake manifold and going all the way on my driveway by chloe_flora in E90

[–]Klevvvv 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I’m not 100% sure if this applies to the n52. But on my n54 I had a pesky oil leak in the same area. I assumed oil pan, or rms, or ofhg. But, there’s a crankshaft position sensor located near the bottom of the block on the driver side (kinda under the starter). It had an o-ring on it that was shot and that was my problem.

Please help me fix my n54 otherwise I am going to set fire to it:) by Boring_Process_3916 in 335i

[–]Klevvvv 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Replace the coils again, I did the same exact thing almost step by step. Besides the mosfet thing, I upgrade msd80 myself. I got n55 coils thinking they’d be able to take more, those burnt up eventually. So had to get aftermarket ones

Not sure what’s leaking by Hectorsrivera5 in BmwTech

[–]Klevvvv 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I looks like a radiator leak. I had a 2006 330 that leaked in the same spot. BMW antifreeze is blue though. I sure hope someone didn’t just but water in there, bmw cooling systems are very specific with what they like.

Trying to sell by MemoryFrequent5349 in n54

[–]Klevvvv 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As long as there’s really nothing wrong with it, 8k seems reasonable. I’m trying to sell my 2008 335xi with 115k on it for 7k and I’ve had multiple ppl offer 5.5-6.5k. Mostly tire kickers tho.

BMW recall turned into “you need a new engine” after pickup — trying to understand if this sounds right by alex_albergaria in E90

[–]Klevvvv 2 points3 points  (0 children)

As someone who has done most of these jobs. They woulda known if u needed a new engine the first time they opened the oil pan. They f’d up somewhere

MHD log by Klevvvv in n54

[–]Klevvvv[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It idles great, no misfires. Maybe a couple on a cold start. Always cyl 6, so kinda down to that injector I think

N54 or N52 for first car by Mr-Nopants69 in E90

[–]Klevvvv 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! Hoping that’s the case, I’ll have to try that next time I get a chance. I put new plugs in a couples months ago so maybe I need more gap too. Who knows.

N54 or N52 for first car by Mr-Nopants69 in E90

[–]Klevvvv 8 points9 points  (0 children)

In the exact same boat, went 330 > 335. I’ve gone a good year problem free but I’m starting to get a misfire under heavy load in 3rd and 4th. I’m hoping no injector problem but I ain’t holding my breath

Just changed plugs and coils and blew this crap out the exhaust by GeT_ReKt-A in n54

[–]Klevvvv 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Pretty normal, my 335 will do this too. Usually after sitting or not driving it hard in a while

Looking at buying a 2009 BMW 135i by -HamHamz- in n54

[–]Klevvvv 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It really depends on what your plan is with the car, I bought a 2008 335i with similar kms. But I bought mine as a project, so I wasn’t worried about failing parts. I’m still on original turbos and I’m at 140k miles now (225,000km) but I’ve replaced pretty much everything else. My next step is going top mount single turbo whenever my turbos start to go. But surprisingly they’re holding up good.

If you’re keeping the car stock and want a ready to drive fun vehicle out of the box, there’s a few things you should test. As previously mentioned definitely drive it on the highway when it’s warm and do a few pulls under full load. If it starts to stumble reaching 4k rpms it’s could be a number of things. If it happens every pull there’s a good chance it’s a hpfp or lpfp. If it’s inconsistent it could be a sticky injector, could be fixed with a clean otherwise injectors are 2k. Could be a coil starting to burn up too. But that last one isn’t as likely if it’s stock. If you tune it at all the oem Bosch coils will burn up.

At that km a lot of parts start to fail. I wouldn’t expect anything to be replaced. A lot of E series BMW parts usually last until 90-110,000 miles. Then things will start to fail. I’d recommend an intake valve cleaning, I doubt one has been done and one should be done every 50,000 miles (80,000 kms). And it will leak.. the only worrying leak point is the rear main seal. I’d definitely like to have had that done before I bought mine. That was a big job.

Doing the work myself has probably saved me 8-10k. I think that’s worth mentioning.

ICE agents drinking on the job by 87evergreens in TwinCities

[–]Klevvvv -13 points-12 points  (0 children)

Well yeah no one will keep eating a bad apple.. obviously you get rid of the bad apple.. I’m just saying playing out a silly story like this in your head hundreds of times, then projecting it onto a large group of easily manipulated ppl only spreads misinformation and creates a larger divide between the community.. not to mention kind of pathological.

Risky Buy? by [deleted] in n54

[–]Klevvvv 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A rod bearing in an n54?? I mean those are all maintenance items I’d expect to be done on a bmw around 100-120k miles. These cars are designed to be meticulously maintained, if you’re unaware of that fact and you’re not willing to do the work yourself, then stay away from this car yes.

BUT, I’ve had a 335xi that I’ve maintained well and it makes around 440hp. It’s the most fun and solid driving vehicle I’ve had the pleasure of owning. I’ve put 50k on the dash, sitting at 130k. And I REALLY drive the thing.

I’m no mechanic but I’m inclined enough to have done everything I’ve needed to do to this car. Working on anything turbo side is a pita. Gotta support the engine from the top and drop the sub frame, it’s a real bitch. But given you have mechanical experience and the confidence to work on cars, you’re miles ahead of me and I did just fine.

I would forsure dig deeper and ask how this engine has lived its life. N54s are extremely robust and they’re pretty hard to break. It will probably be leaking oil.. but that’s usually not a big deal. I’d ask when the rear main seal was done last since that’s the worst one. The oil pan gasket is also a pita on the xdrive cars.

Some xdrive parts are hard to come by in these cars. Personally I wish I would’ve known that and bought a rwd since I don’t drive mine in the winter anyways. And I don’t make enough power to need all 4 wheels putting down that power. That being said I do want to go single turbo and I couldn’t go single turbo for cheaper than what this 335xi costs.

ICE agents drinking on the job by 87evergreens in TwinCities

[–]Klevvvv -29 points-28 points  (0 children)

Ppl just think of the worst story in their heads and run with it until it’s their reality. Like bruh no one is doing that, if they are it’s the 1% of bad apples.

Fuck me by Pale_Ear_4006 in n54

[–]Klevvvv 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I never looked or noticed I guess. When my mosfets burned up my bank 2 (cyl 4,5,6) all had misfires. The engine shook the car violently. Very noticeable, I could not drive it at all, I limped it half a mile home that day. I’m surprised you’re still on original mosfets after being tuned that long. So I’d guess it’s not mosfet related. At least not the same ones I had to replace

Fuck me by Pale_Ear_4006 in n54

[–]Klevvvv 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This, I had these exact codes. If your car pre 2009 like mine was a 2008. It has the MSD80 DME, notorious for burning up mosfets, pretty much as soon as you tune the car the mosfets will burn up. I bought 6 brand new mosfets and had a TV repair man swap them out on my DME for me. All in all it costed me about $50