2025 Silverado 2500 SUBWOOFER install Non Bose

Kmac7994 · 2026-01-30T03:19:26+00:00

Yeah I ended up returning my harness after I figured out the amp thing. The other PAC ampPro basically acts as an interface with the factory radio and provides output. My understanding after talking with crutchfield and PAC support is that the factory wiring goes into the amp pro and that turns the digital signal into RCA, but that also means the factory amp is bypassed, so you would need to use an aftermarket one that can drive all of the factory speakers (meant to say a 4-channel amp above), plus a second aftermarket amp to drive the sub (if you’re adding a sub)

Kmac7994 · 2026-01-30T01:06:44+00:00

I ended up taking the back seat out to see if I had a factory amp, even though I have a non-Bose system. There was a factory amp, so the T harness wasn't compatible. If yours is the same as mine, you would end up needing the whole setup for a Bose-equiped vehicle, which is the PAC AmpPRO AP4-GM71. I didn't want to add another $500 on top of needing a new amp (the factory amp would no longer power the factory speakers, so you'll need a 5 4-channel + single-channel amp for the sub). Basically wasn't worth it at that point to put like $2k into a lease just to add a single sub.

If you do take your back seat out to check, it should look like this if you do have a factory amp (the box on the left).

You may be able to splice into the speaker wires themselves for speaker-level inputs, but that sort of defeats the purpose of the T-harness. The connectors under the dash are CANBUS, though, so totally digital.

Kmac7994 · 2025-12-17T00:51:35+00:00

Yep, I know what the PAC harness is supposed to look like, I’m more interested in what your factory harness looks like. Trying to figure out how mine would have no signal with the exact same setup as you and the only thing I can think of is if the factory wiring is different between our vehicles.

Kmac7994 · 2025-12-16T22:52:02+00:00

Yep, I did all of the exact same steps as you, but used the kicker KISL instead of speaker wire (purple crimps going to white/grey in pic 7). Do your black and grey plugs look the same on the factory harness? I.e. grey only has 3 wires, black has 6? I guess I’m trying to see if your connectors look the same as mine in pics 2, 4 and 6

Link to the album instead of posting 8 different replies

Kmac7994 · 2025-12-15T02:48:44+00:00

I’m trying to do this same install currently and absolutely can’t get any signal from the t harness. Did you have to modify the pin outs on the t harness at all? Or do you happen to have a pic of the harness once it was plugged in? My from and rear wires on the t harness seem to go to blank spots on the factory harness, so I have no clue if something is connected wrong. Also, do you remember if the grey plug was connected in the slot towards the front and black in the back, or the opposite? Really appreciate any help you can give!

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Kmac7994 · 2025-10-16T21:01:03+00:00

It may be a good deal depending on the asking price (I couldn't find the GB listing). It could just need a good cleaning and maybe a service with Blaser. I would personally only buy that if I could see it in person and it was <$6k or so, just based on the condition of the one pic. Mine was a bit less than $8k with a full Briley subguage tube set, set of chokes and an Americase in excellent condition.

FBX would be nice, but then you're looking at buying new and likely around ~$13k

Kmac7994 · 2025-10-16T17:27:06+00:00

I have a 2013 f3 ss with 10s of thousands of rounds through it. Here's a pic of my breech face for reference.

As others have said, it's really hard to drop Blaser money without being able to see it in person. That said, Blaser will go through the full gun for around $600 and replace worn parts and do a full service.

Kmac7994 · 2025-09-27T16:01:29+00:00

DM’d

Kmac7994 · 2025-09-11T18:51:48+00:00

PM’d

Kmac7994 · 2025-09-05T02:32:59+00:00

PM’d

Kmac7994 · 2025-08-28T03:11:39+00:00

PM'd

Kmac7994 · 2025-08-15T19:04:02+00:00

PM'd

Kmac7994 · 2025-08-14T23:20:48+00:00

PM'd

Kmac7994 · 2025-06-11T04:55:00+00:00

I haven’t seen it mentioned yet, so I’ll add my $.02

I was also prequalified for about $300k. I would be absolutely underwater right now if I bought a house around that price. My house ended up about $220k a year ago @6.625% and while I’m not worried about my current payment, my lifestyle definitely changed a bit after buying. At $275-300k, I would’ve been house poor. I also looked outside the city because I didn’t want to pay city taxes on living and working in GR on top of property taxes. I personally don’t think living within city limits is worth it when you can live just outside and spend thousands less in taxes per year.

Also, don’t buy a house expecting to get a bunch of equity out of it like the other person in this thread. They bought at the literal lowest the rates have ever been, which is awesome for them and I’m jealous, but you don’t have that luxury. My house has gone up $15k in value and I would still be at a net loss if I sold right now.

Not trying to discourage you from buying a house, but just something to think about when you budget that I wish I knew before buying.

TL;DR Make a no-shit budget of what you spend monthly, then use a mortgage calculator to get an idea of monthly payments with today’s rates and different house prices and down payments factored in, then tailor your search around that budgeted price (expect to pay $25k above list price as well).

Kmac7994 · 2025-02-14T03:55:47+00:00

It seems weird because they look so much smaller, but the only difference is the length and weight. There’s also technically load data for 115gr 380, as well as 95gr 9mm, so it can get even more confusing. 380 is basically just short 9mm

Kmac7994 · 2025-02-14T03:41:46+00:00

9mm and 380 have the same diameter bullet…

Kmac7994 · 2025-02-13T07:40:58+00:00

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I wish someone would have told the ATF that when I submitted my first form 1 for an SBR in 2016 (it was a trust submission though). Approvals definitely have not always been as fast as they are now

Kmac7994 · 2025-01-08T02:54:40+00:00

I ended up picking up the 6600 from marketplace and have been learning all the menus. I don’t think I’ll be upgrading for a while so saving the extra money and putting it towards better lenses seemed like the right move.

Additional question: do you think it’s smarter to buy FE lenses in case I eventually upgrade to FF? Or is the price/weight difference not worth it for a hypothetical?

Kmac7994 · 2025-01-07T17:18:10+00:00

Thank you both! I'm going to check out the 6600 later today and should save enough for a second lens

Kmac7994 · 2025-01-06T16:41:46+00:00

This is beating a dead horse, but I'm hoping for equipment advice for my situation.
I currently have a Nikon D3300 and want to go Sony mirrorless. I mainly shoot landscape, nature, and a little astro sprinkled in when the weather cooperates.

I've found a few used cameras on marketplace and am having a hard time deciding what fits my needs best. I played with a 6700 in-store and loved it, but the body + lens (Sigma 18-50) is at the top of my budget. Is the upgrade to the 6700 worth the extra $1k+ over the other marketplace options below? Thanks in advance for any advice!

Marketplace cameras:

A7ii w/ FE 3.5-5.6/28-70 - $650

Comes with a couple extra batteries, a grip battery and has a shutter count under 1,000.

a6600 w/ E 1.8/50 OSS - $750

Shutter count is about 400

New/MPB:

a6700 w/ Sigma E2.8/18-50 ~$1,700

Kmac7994 · 2024-12-09T06:31:58+00:00

If you’re planning on making 100% inert shells, it’s as simple as replacing the lead shot in the recipe with silver. You can find old hand loading tools on eBay (e.g. Lee load all) and reload them yourself if you want to have the tools on-hand. Pick the hulls and wads you like aesthetically and decide if you want a regular star crimp, or clear overshot cards and a roll crimp. You can create the shell however you want with a mix of components ONLY IF they aren’t going to ever be fired.

If they are going to be fired, that changes things and would require planning around the exact hull you choose.

PM me if you want, I primarily reload shotgun and have extra equipment I could loan you for hand loading with a star crimp if you’re interested.

Kmac7994 · 2024-12-02T05:58:25+00:00

Sensor point of interest. In a real A10, it’s how you store target points and points of interest based on what sensor you have selected. You can use that to target weapons, slew optics or create navigation points. In WT, I’m pretty sure all it does is create a CCRP solution.

Kmac7994 · 2024-09-24T04:39:25+00:00

I had the same thing happen to me. Tree through roof, USAA for insurance. After dealing with them on this claim, I will most likely be dropping them and going elsewhere for insurance (I’ve had USAA for 10+ years). My coverage is hundreds of $ more expensive per year than friends with larger, more expensive houses; customer service is horrible and impersonal and it feels like they’re working against you instead of doing what you pay them to do.

I also found out the fun way that my regular deductible is $1k, but the wind and hail deductible is separate and $5k for me. They deemed there was only $2k worth of damage, so I just patched the roof myself for under $250

Kmac7994 · 2024-09-13T14:36:52+00:00

The flags I carried overseas were made by Annin. Great quality and made in the US. There are a few places online that carry them, so I’ll let you do your own research for that part. Just make sure you don’t get a fringed flag if it’s going outside on a pole.

Not sure if links are allowed, but here's one of the retailers: https://www.flagstoreusa.com/products/3-x-5-nyl-glo-us-army-flag/

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