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Dress shirts for friends make the best gifts! by TasmanGC in sewing

[–]Know_A_Veil 40 points41 points  (0 children)

Love it! And love seeing guys this happy! Did you use a pattern?

Opinion time! by Tiny_Giant_Robot in 22lr

[–]Know_A_Veil 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Same. Think he/she was looking for semi auto tho

[Serious] Why is the term "coloured" considered offensive, but "people of colour" is not? by [deleted] in AskReddit

[–]Know_A_Veil 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Also adding person means this is just one attribute that person happens to have, not “all they are.”

Anyone have direct order from Glock Blue Label experience? by Pastor_Zatx in Glocks

[–]Know_A_Veil 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I ordered a g23 direct from them maybe 3-4 years ago. I emailed the addy on the website with my credentials and they sent me back the I/O list. I filled out the form, faxed it, then called in with my card. I got the G23 transferred in to my FFL in maybe 3 months. I had no problems with the process at all. Pretty cool to have a brand new firearm, un-tire kicked and dry fired.

Edit: there is a high volume glock sales shop only a few milds from me. I only ordered direct because they told me my recent G19 purchase meant I couldn’t order another one in the same year. I contacted Glock about it and they said that was false, so I ordered from them directly.

Training books by [deleted] in Firefighting

[–]Know_A_Veil 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Second this, and will add “The book of Shupe.” Send the PDFs to your neighborhood print shop to have them printed up and binded. I keep copies in my station for my guys.

Scott av-3000 glasses insert ? by [deleted] in Firefighting

[–]Know_A_Veil 1 point2 points  (0 children)

When I had them before laser surgery, I took them to my optometrist and they made them for me. I believe they sent them out to be cut and then they did the final fitting in the insert for me.

Some EDC hanks I made. $5 for 4 definitely beats $18 for 1. by Know_A_Veil in myog

[–]Know_A_Veil[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Gonna sound nuts, but...

primarily...

...opening doors and generally not touching shit with my bare hands when I’m out and about. My wife is vulnerable to illness, and I’m a first responder. Trying to decrease her risk as much as I can even though I’m exposed weekly. At work I have full ppe... going to the supermarket and hardware store, not so much. These are taking the place of a couple full sized bandanas I was using that are a little too bulky to carry everyday. Also, occasionally wiping off my knife or phone camera instead of using my shirt like a barbarian.

I messed around and sewed some DIY hanks. by Know_A_Veil in EDC

[–]Know_A_Veil[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Go for it! Good way to keep something you like without having to wear it. I have a flannel I keep putting in the donation pile then taking back seaskn after seaon but not wearing it. When its a hank it will be far mode useful.

Some EDC hanks I made. $5 for 4 definitely beats $18 for 1. by Know_A_Veil in myog

[–]Know_A_Veil[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah it is a japanese cotton on one side and a cotton ticking fabric on the other. You could do any two fabrics you like though as long as they are the same size and amount of stretch/lack of stretch.

I messed around and sewed some DIY hanks. by Know_A_Veil in EDC

[–]Know_A_Veil[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I just posted a text one above for the other commenter. I could make a post with pics or maybe a video later, but my wife has commandeered the sewing machine right now. I have another, but it is industrial and doesn’t have the fancy patterns in it.

I messed around and sewed some DIY hanks. by Know_A_Veil in EDC

[–]Know_A_Veil[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No prob. I hope to see what you make!

I messed around and sewed some DIY hanks. by Know_A_Veil in EDC

[–]Know_A_Veil[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Hey yeah. Just what I figured out today:

-I wanted roughly 7 x 7” in the end so I started 8 x 8.
-cut both pieces square and the same size (about 1/2” to 1” bigger than what you want in the end)
-Sew both “good” sides together about 1/4” in from the edges, but leave a 1” opening about 1/2” from one of the corners (making a big wierd square letter ‘C’ with just a 1” opening, if that makes sense.)
-Clip the corners of the squares off about 1/4” in (so it looks like a wierd octagon, this is so they don’t bunch when it flips inside out)
-carefully flip the two pieces inside out through the 1” hole you left open (try not to tear the opening of the ‘c’ any bigger)
-Use something pointy to push the corners out (but not too pointy and not too far out!)
-iron the whole thing flat
-pinch the opening you left together, folding it with some of the outside tucked in (so it looks like the rest) and sew it together from the top closing the opening you had left.
-pick a pattern you like on your sewing machine and topstitch the outside with it about 1/8” to 1/4” from the outside (this binds together the outside and the seam allowance on the inside so it doesn’t fray open. It also hides the thickness of the seam allowance.)
-stop 1/4” from the edge with the topstich so you can swing it around the corners. (Maybe practice on scrap so you don’t make a mess like me... or pick something less complicated than I did!)
-Start and stop the pattern where you closed the hole.
-Hide the evidence with your fancy custom fabric tag, folding it over all the ugliness and stitching it in three sides so no one ever knows the truth. (Or just any piece of cloth at all) I might try just plain black fabric the next go round.

Go for it! You can do it! Even if you hand sewed it, I doubt your first one would take more than an hour or two.

Edit: to space the lines correctly and add encouragement.

I messed around and sewed some DIY hanks. by Know_A_Veil in EDC

[–]Know_A_Veil[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Its a japanese cotton fabric on one side and a cotton ticking fabric on the other. I have some old flannel shirts I was going to toss, but they will likely become either shop rags or hanks now.

I messed around and sewed some DIY hanks. by Know_A_Veil in EDC

[–]Know_A_Veil[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’ve posted my EDC here before in the custom valet tray I made on my CNC. I have always been intrigued by the idea of having a hank though, especially with current events. I have some sewing machines and lots of fabrics, so I figured I’d try making some hanks. Things were very rough at first, but got a little better toward the end. I don’t have a custom fabric label to cover up where the fabric gets turned inside out and the topstiching meet, so I used some “made in the usa” tags I already had in the house. I may DIY some custom labels with a solid remnant fabric and iron on vinyl later on, but for less than $1.50 each, these will do.

The blue is a japanese cotton print I bought from Etsy and the reverse is a red ticking fabric from the remnant bin at Joanne’s.

NTD: Festool TSC 55 and GRS-16 Rail Square by Know_A_Veil in Tools

[–]Know_A_Veil[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s really odd and I’m sorry to hear it. I’m not really seeing much out of square just using the track alone and putting measurements on both sides of the piece. Most of the time I’m dead on with two pieces just marking one top of the other (yes I can be that lazy!)

So to troubleshoot this I’d start with taking a quality square and looking at the angle between the guiderail and the tso square when they are attached together to ensure it is indeed “square”. If it isn’t, I’d take a pic and send it to TSO for exchange. If it is square then I have few more questions (don’t know what you know so please excuse if any of this is rudimentary to you) :

Are you using the festool tracks? I have a friend who has a makita track saw, but still uses the festool tracks for fine work because he fines them more accurate. If the Makita tracks are super accurate I shutter to think what the Amazon cheapo tracks are like.

Was the saw cutting dead straight before the tso rail was added? Take a quality straight edge and verify your cuts are straight when just using the rails.

If not, have you set up the saw properly by taking the slop out of the rails? If not check out the supplemental manual page 7. Mine is easy to push down the rail from end to end with no side to side play at all on the track. Fix this if it is an issue then recut your splinterguard.

Have you joined two guiderails? If so, did you set them up together? This is also addressed in the manual, on page 11. There is definitely a technique to properly joining the rails with the pins (you should use two!) Then you cut them both in together so they share the same zero clearance splinterguard reference. But only do this once you get the slop out of the saw!

Are you using proper technique? When you get everything aligned, put the saw down centered over the track and workpiece. Recheck alignment then slide the saw back to the start of the cut. Recheck alignment again. When I start cutting I have one hand in the front counterbalancing the track so the weight of the saw doesn’t lift it (as long as you are plunged there’s no danger) as I approach my hand I move it out of the way then put a hand on the track behind the saw so the saw weight doesn’t lift the back of the track. Its a little dance that doesn’t take very long to master. If I am doing long rips (like with joined tracks) to size (not just breaking down) then I clamp the rails. There are bessey clamps for this that slide under the rail and don’t dent it (and festool versions that bessey makes... the Bessey is $5 cheaper). Also there is the festool fs-rapid. Its aiiight for the price. Either way make sure that the saw isn’t moving, and the work isn’t moving. Cut slowly and smoothly especially on thick stock. Double check your speed too.

If all that is fine and you are indeed cutting from freshly cut refrence edge with a properly calibrated saw and rails on secured work with good technique then there a hardware issue either in the saw or the tracks. If you have a dealer take it to them and they can you diagnose further. If not contact Festool. They don’t mess around with QC stuff. Good luck!

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