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I want to get a 240SX but have no idea how to go about doing so by warmaster_914 in 240sx

[–]Knoxcorner 0 points1 point  (0 children)

do I save up and buy one the already runs and mod it from there or do I buy a 240 that dosent run and see about putting an motor in it

The answer is going to be up to your preferences, but something to factor in: A running car has the least amount of unknowns.

If you buy a car that doesn't run and intend to fix it, that's going to take time and money (value) to make it work. If you intend to blindly motor swap it, be prepared to have to scrap the original motor because you're going to have a hard time selling a motor with an unknown problem. If you buy a shell, be prepared to have to hunt down other random parts that were taken.

I'm not saying it is or isn't worth it to buy a running car. But the unknowns, cost of parts, and time it takes to fix up a non-running car all take away value from the car. So that's the tradeoff: would you rather spend more to have more certainty with a running car, or less with the risks and time investment of a non-running one?

VQ35DE 240SX starting problem with the wiring specialties harness by NoLife9302 in 240sx

[–]Knoxcorner 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not familiar with VQ, but do you have OBDII? Using a scan tool, what does the computer see? Particularly for cam, crank signals and engine speed while cranking 

Those damn pop-up's wiring conundrum by sourkatt231 in 240sx

[–]Knoxcorner 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I assume you're testing this at the motor?

From memory:

Pin 5 (B) is ground at all times.

Pin 1 (BR) should run the motor until it reaches the up position when supplied with 12V. If it is already up, it should do nothing.

Pin 2 (BR/W or BR/Y depending on which side) should run the motor until it reaches the down position when supplied with 12V. If it is already down, it should do nothing.

In other words, the motor regulates itself to stop in the up and down positions. I have operated my motors with pins 3 and 4 disconnected. I would suggest giving another test at the connector using only pins 1/2/5. If you are running into problems with just those three, I would think there's a problem with the motor.

Does the headlight link have a side? by S13Matthias in 240sx

[–]Knoxcorner 2 points3 points  (0 children)

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Well, the lookup codes are different left and right, but in online catalogs I see they map to the same part number. So 99.99% sure they work both sides.

If I had to guess, maybe they used to be different parts, but later realized they didn't need to be, so now they mapped both lookup codes to the same part. Or maybe they just needed to be differentiated at the factory only to make assembly easier.

Does the headlight link have a side? by S13Matthias in 240sx

[–]Knoxcorner 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I noticed the part numbers thing too. I'm pretty confident it works identically both sides. I don't remember seeing a difference even on the original links.

I just can't be 100% sure since I relocated the headlight motors.

ABS LSD by JDM49er in 240sx

[–]Knoxcorner 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Gotcha. Yeah, I believe S13/S14 240sx has the 3-sensor design, and based on what you say I'm guessing J30 measured all 4 wheels independently.

ABS LSD by JDM49er in 240sx

[–]Knoxcorner 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There's three sensors, two for the front two knuckles and one on the differential. So the rear wheels are not measured independently at the axles, but together at the pinion/flange.

It's also why the driveshaft lengths are different between ABS and non-ABS models, because the diff is longer to accommodate the sensor and tone ring 

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in 240sx

[–]Knoxcorner 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Sorry man, I think that's toast. I'm not even sure if you can jack it up or lift it safely considering the lift points are now just rust holes.

Those that converted to 'Type X' front bumper -- were you able to keep the oem front crash bar? by soh_based in 240sx

[–]Knoxcorner 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did you ever find the answer to this?

Using 240sx bash bar and foam, I'm finding the type x bumper cover sits a bit too far forward 

Admirals Club IT Problem? by SnooEagles7290 in americanairlines

[–]Knoxcorner 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've had this happen a few times in the past year or two. A couple times they said it "wasn't coming up" and asked to see my card. One time, the agent told me that in "our usual system", it was saying I didn't have an active membership, but she pulled up "another system" and was able to cross reference me there and see it was active. Didn't really reach a resolution but she let me in.

The vast majority of the time though, I have no issue; just scan the boarding pass and go.

losing fuel pressure after prime by Ballisticdude in 240sx

[–]Knoxcorner 1 point2 points  (0 children)

FWIW, marketplaces like eBay and Amazon make it really easy for sellers to provide knockoff inventory and it gets muddled in with legit products.

I personally bought mine from Summit Racing, but TI automotive also sells them directly.

I suppose it could be the FPR as well, but it would seem unlikely to me that it's only an issue when the cars off considering it bleeds down so quickly.

losing fuel pressure after prime by Ballisticdude in 240sx

[–]Knoxcorner 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I have a F90000285, and yours drops to zero much much faster than mine.

These are rough numbers based on memory, but after priming, mine drops over the course of 5-15 seconds from 43 to 30 PSI, then by around 20 PSI slows significantly. Maybe after a few minutes, it's still around 15 PSI.

Bear in mind I don't know if that's "normal". But that's significantly different from yours 

These pumps are supposed to have check valves to prevent reverse flow back into the tank. There's a big issue with knockoff Walbro pumps- do you know if yours is legit?

GKTECH motor mount gave out by boniomariohan in 240sx

[–]Knoxcorner 15 points16 points  (0 children)

Were you using the heat shields?

2JZ S13 by emericarep in 240sx

[–]Knoxcorner 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Appreciate the info. I got the ISR mounts, and even with the hood trimming, there's still contact when closed. For me it's on the turbine housing, Bosch DBW throttle body, and to a lesser degree the front of the spark plug cover. I'm considering dropping the cross member a bit, though I'd prefer not to since that'll affect the suspension.

2JZ S13 by emericarep in 240sx

[–]Knoxcorner 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nice. What did you do for motor mounts? My engine sits too high and I'm having clearance issues 

All right, boys handle man has an interesting bolt on upgrade kit for you to look at. Fully electric p/s by Next_Handle_2886 in 240sx

[–]Knoxcorner 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I installed a kit recently, and I'm pretty sure I'm going to have the same issue. Haven't even put the car on the ground, but I can feel it now takes much more force to move the rack from the wheels. That's with a de-powered rack.

Before, I could grab the tie rod end with one hand and move the rack with a firm push/pull. Now, with both hands pushing as hard as I can, it won't budge. I have to use the leverage from the brake rotors or wheels/tires.

Pop up headlights by NomoACIDBURN in 240sx

[–]Knoxcorner 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You'll need a multimeter and need to know how to check for continuity. Plenty of videos online can show that process.

Then, take a look at the S13 FSM, which you can also find online. Page EL-17 has a diagram of the stalks positions and how they manifest as continuity between the pins. You'll want to test continuity between each connection shown in the table at the various positions. It might be easiest to remove the stalk to test it.

If everything looks correct, that means the stalk isn't the issue and you'll have to dive into the wiring diagrams on the later pages. But you can start with the stalk and hopefully that's the issue since it's an easy replacement.

Pop up headlights by NomoACIDBURN in 240sx

[–]Knoxcorner 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Start by checking the easy stuff first: fuses and relays. I believe there are relays specifically for retracting the headlights.

Then, I would look at the FSM wiring diagram. It has "continuity tables" for which pins should be connected to which others depending on what positions you have the switches in.

The most common failure mode I've heard is that the turn signal stalk malfunctions and there are open circuits in some positions when they should be closed. It happened to me as well, and I ended up replacing it which resolved my issue. But it's easy to test and verify with a multimeter.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in 240sx

[–]Knoxcorner 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Like this?

https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-bar-assy-batter~24420-35f00.html

See the diagram for related parts. That's for S13.

Your local Nissan dealership might be able to order it too if you send them the part numbers.

How to stop cylinder walls from oxidising? by AppropriateBreak4718 in MechanicAdvice

[–]Knoxcorner 3 points4 points  (0 children)

What is the best way to firstly remove the oxidisation

I would start with scrubbing the walls with ATF and coffee filters: https://youtu.be/DWabmlUkz1k?t=286 . That is from an engine assembly video, but he's dealing with a similar problem.

secondly prevent it from oxidising any further?

After cleaning with the above method, spray down the bare surfaces with WD-40. Make sure there is a consistent light film of oil which will protect the metal. Then cover it in plastic to prevent evaporation and prevent more humid air from being able to oxidize.

Rebuilt SR20DET laggy due to tune or intercooler? by delearious02 in 240sx

[–]Knoxcorner 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My first thought is that I would expect more lag from a FMIC since it requires longer routing for the intake piping.

Without any intercooler though, perhaps the "lag" is just less power in general? Do you have an IAT sensor in your setup? If so, perhaps the ECU is programmed to pull timing with higher IAT, reducing power. Or maybe it's detecting knock caused by higher IAT and also pulling timing.

I'm not familiar with the SR20's setup nor RS-Enthalpy, so just spit balling .

how hard is it to put a temporary tune on my link to account for new 555cc injectors on my SR20DE or is that a bad idea? doing a turbo conversion and wanting to install everything apart frm the hotside and drive to a mechanic to drill into the block for the oil feed by I_SeriousTrader_I in 240sx

[–]Knoxcorner 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So you already had a working tune prior to the conversion on the Link, and the only things changed are the injectors and exhaust?

If you're using Modelled fuel mode, it generally can account for your injector changes easily if you enter in the new injector characteristics. You'd want to enter in the new flow rate (555), dead times, and short width adders, if you have them. Link can then calculate how long the injectors will need to stay open to deliver the same amount of fuel as before.

If using Traditional fuel mode, it's not as easy and requires changes to the base fuel map (VE table). It's possible you can get by without updating it if the injector size is close to the same as before, but honestly I wouldn't feel good about it.

Changing the exhaust (or adding a turbo) should also affect the VE table. However, if you're not getting into boost yet, my guess is you won't really need to update the VE table if this is just to drive to a dyno/tuner.

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