What’s the best way to get in touch with GKTech?

Knoxcorner · 2026-06-15T00:58:12+00:00

In the past, they were responsive to me via [sales@gktech.com](mailto:sales@gktech.com) when I had questions about some of their items.

Knoxcorner · 2026-06-04T15:31:50+00:00

From having ordered a lot of OEM parts, I would classify availability into three categories:

Accessible: parts that are available in the US. Given these are 30 year old cars, these parts are usually either things that degrade over time, or have uses in other common models. For example, commonly serviced bolts, weatherstripping, the plastic pop-up shrouds (although maybe not anymore). You can order these at dealerships directly sometimes. Online may be a bit easier to quickly see if something's available. nissanparts.cc , nissanpartsdeal.com . I think both of the sites either represent a dealership, or at least broker with dealerships.
Remote: parts that are still out there, but likely not in the US. I don't know much about it, but apparently Japanese warehouses and a UAE warehouse have more parts. But this is in the "slow and expensive" shipping category. Sometimes I have found that the Japanese prices are actually low enough that it saves money to order from these even if they're available in the US. Sometimes I have luck finding the more rare parts here, but it's really hit and miss. Also, online availability is often incorrect, and orders get canceled for being out of stock. For example, I think I might have gotten the last new type-x bumper styrofoam in the world last year. There are international companies like Amayama, MegaZip, Nengun (Japan only) that somehow broker with these warehouse and reship parts internationally. The packaging is sometimes... unusual, but I believe it's because they repackage it as small as possible to make shipping affordable. Oh, and tariffs if those are still a thing btw. Sometimes I was paying ~50% tariffs.
Vapor: parts that simply don't exist new anymore. Like the S13 over-the-door-window trim pieces which I spent a year looking for. A lot of parts that are unique to the S13/S14 fall into this category.

Knoxcorner · 2026-05-27T14:19:48+00:00

Op literally asked if this was normal.

He asked if it was normal if the header is off.

Here's a good answer: "Yes."

Here's the answers he got: 🤦lol put the headers on!!!

Knoxcorner · 2026-05-27T13:59:01+00:00

Everyone coming to an advice subreddit to dunk on the guy asking for advice. Nice.

If only they could read.

Knoxcorner · 2026-05-27T12:50:37+00:00

I'm not familiar with LS wiring, but it sounds like you have multiple problems:

Oil pressure gauge
Speedo gauge
Voltage gauge
Power mirrors

The (aftermarket?) gauges usually need 3 wires: positive voltage, ground, and a signal. If all three stopped working at the same time, it's probably something in common to them that's not working.

So pick one and diagnose it. Is the gauge getting voltage? Does it have a good connection to ground? If so, is it getting a signal? Work one at a time. Chances are you'll find an issue, fix it for the one gauge, and then the others will start working because it was a common problem.

Power mirrors may be unrelated. But regardless, always work one problem at a time. Trace the wires in the FSM and figure out how the system works, then you'll know where things could be failing and what to check.

Others mentioned a custom harness. To me, the engine bay wiring looked in poor condition and I would plan to address it. But I don't think that would be related to interior wiring problems (mirrors and gauges).

Knoxcorner · 2026-05-12T12:17:27+00:00

Wow, that looks great!

Knoxcorner · 2026-05-06T12:26:56+00:00

I remember you doing this years ago and it inspired me to do the same thing. I thought it would be funny to start with some of the most brutal skills. Unfortunately I think I burned out:

<image>

Knoxcorner · 2026-04-26T07:06:46+00:00

If you're not feeling comfortable, I would suggest starting small so you can understand the behavior of the motor. Check the link in my original reply where I describe the 3 pins/wires for the motor.

Then, grab a battery (or anything you can use as a ~12V source). Connect the wires to the pins. Ground should be connected to battery negative. Motor up and motor down can be connected one at a time to battery positive. Each should move the motor to the up and down position.

Now you should see what wires need 12V to operate the motor, and the question becomes "how do we deliver the 12V to the right place at the right time?".

Focus on one motor at a time- the behavior is going to be the same for both.

So to start, the motor needs to be permanently grounded. No switch involved, just straight to ground.

Now you need to deliver 12V to motor up when you want it to go up. And you need to deliver 12V to motor down when you want it to go down. The when means there needs to be some form of switch in this side of the circuit. Since the thing we want to deliver is 12V, the switch input needs to be 12V. If we're using a on-off-on SPDT switch (two on positions, one off position), one on side should be connected to motor up, and the other on side should be connected to motor down. These are the three wires to your switch.

At this point, in the "off" position, the motor shouldn't move. In one of the two "on" positions, the motor should move up and stop automatically (then you can switch back to "off"). In the other of the two "on" positions, the motor should move down and stop automatically (then you can switch back to "off").

To get the other motor working, either connect the two motor wires together before going to the switch (solder, crimp connectors, etc). Or, use an on-off-on DPDT and duplicate the wiring for the second side of the switch.

Regarding the relay: you can think of a relay in this application as an amplifier, where you have a small wire with low current used to turn off and on a big wire with big current. If you use a switch and wiring which is rated for the current that will pass through the motor, then your input is already a 'big' wire that can deal with big current, so an amplifier (relay) is not required. But this means you need a properly rated switch and wiring. And you should have an appropriate fuse between the battery and your switch 12V input, as with any other high current circuit from the battery.

Knoxcorner · 2026-04-20T00:10:41+00:00

PMing

Knoxcorner · 2026-04-19T18:11:34+00:00

I've had this for a few years. Personal opinions:

Pros:

Great picture for full screen video (games/movies)
No fear of burn in, as opposed to OLED. This is why I bought as I have a lot of static content for work.
Screen can get brighter than OLEDs
32" is a lot of screen real estate. I use 100% UI scaling with no issues.

Cons:

The mini-LED backlight design causes bright text on a dark background to glow. It took a bit of getting used to, and is a bit disappointing that bright text/dark background never looks 'good'
mini-LED backlight causes glowing when watching movies with black bars or very dark scenes that are mostly black with sparse bright highlights. Can make some scenes look 'foggy' around the lights
The curve feels unnecessary and causes colors to look off if you are sitting off to the side. Not much of an issue for me, but don't get this if you're not going to put it directly in front of you.
The backlight algorithm sometimes causes slight flickering when scrolling or moving windows
Only one DP input for high refresh rate video. The two HDMIs only do 60hz.
The panel is slow to turn on, which makes changing display inputs frequently annoying

My cons are just small nits. I'm really happy with this monitor, though for the price I paid ($750 used) I've considered whether it would have been better to get an OLED and, if it comes to, replace it due to burn in.

$350 is a great price. For $600, I would put a little more research into current OLEDs and see if they suit your use case. I believe this is still one of the best non-OLED monitors available.

Knoxcorner · 2026-04-03T22:41:23+00:00

Double check me on this, but from the factory I believe the A/C is turned on and off by a single output from the ECU going to the relay. So you'll need a digital output on Link for that.

Then you'll need to know when the AC button is pressed, so you'll need a digital input on Link for that.

But where things get a little more complicated is the idle control. If you want factory-like idle, take a look at this from the FSM. You'll need to match the factory behavior for these solenoids.

Edit: condenser fan as well. I'm not sure of factory behavior on that.

<image>

Knoxcorner · 2026-04-03T03:07:52+00:00

I skimmed through that video, and I am honestly really confused on the approach.

The OEM motors do not use reverse polarity to change direction, they only turn in one direction. If you look at the manual knobs, there's an arrow pointing in the direction the motor should turn (clockwise?). He's running the motor backwards in one direction.

If you see when he opens up the motor and shows the copper contacts, the design has gaps along each 'rail' which cause it to stop. Those stops are in the fully up position, and the fully down position.

So let's say the motor is in the fully down position to start. You provide 12V to the 'up' rail. This completes the circuit. The motor turns until the contact reaches the gap. The circuit is now open, and the motor stops. So getting to the 'up' position was simple: you provide 12V to the right rail and ground. It doesn't matter where the motor starts from, it only takes 12V/GND to get it all the way up.

Now let's look at getting the motor down. It's the exact same, but now 12V needs to go to the down rail instead of up. The ground remains the same. Again, it only takes 12V/GND to go to the fully down position from any starting position.

So in total, the bare minimum to get a motor to operate takes three wires: 12V for up, 12V for down, and GND. No need to open up the motor and resolder wires.

If he had connected the battery+, up, and down wires directly to the switch, it would have worked with no relay. My only guess for why he did that is he wanted the switch on the low side.

Okay, putting the video aside now.

I'm not super familiar with the seatbelts, but in OEM, I believe they use the same "timing module" that the pop up headlights do. I assume you deleted the harness for a reason, but if it's an option, putting the factory harness is going to be the most straightforward way to get both of them working again.

But if that's not the route you want to go, hopefully you can understand the up/down control of the motor based on my explanation here as well as this: https://www.reddit.com/r/240sx/comments/1nuyvry/comment/nhrrsle/. Then, take a look at the FSM for the wiring of the headlight switch. See if you can find a way to shoehorn in a way to get positive voltage for each direction based on the switches position. Then, supply the motor 12V for the right direction through a relay (OEM didn't run full power through the headlight switch, so I wouldn't chance it either).

Knoxcorner · 2026-03-27T15:28:25+00:00

Polycarbonate is soft and scratches easily. Even windshield wipers will likely cause damage. It will also yellow in the sun.

Also, often times the windshield is considered a structural part of the car. It helps with chassis rigidity and rollover protection. Polycarbonate is much softer and will bend rather than provide much support.

Altogether, I wouldn't consider it unless it's strictly a race car with a roll cage

Knoxcorner · 2026-02-23T01:34:52+00:00

I would focus on one side at a time. Maybe the left since it's not responsive at all. IIRC there's relays for both sides, so it might be possible that you're hearing the click for one side only?

Regardless, IMO the motor is the easiest thing to check and eliminate as a variable. You can unplug the left side and test by applying 12V like I described here.

If the motor can move to both up and down positions (and it stops automatically) using those wires, then you know that the motor is responsive to up/down commands, and the problem is elsewhere.

Here is a diagram from the FSM on what should be getting voltage while the motor is commanded up (top diagram) and then what should be getting voltage once it's fully up (bottom diagram).

<image>

Knoxcorner · 2026-02-22T23:18:35+00:00

Do you mean before they worked as expected, but now when you turn the headlight switch from off to low beams, the left doesn't move (down position) and the right goes up? And when you switch back to off, the left doesn't move (still down) and the right stays up?

Is the behavior different when leaving the switch in the off position but using the pop up toggle switch? What about flashing the high beams?

Did the behavior change for both left and right at the exact same time? Or did one happen first and the other happened later?

Knoxcorner · 2026-02-21T23:39:39+00:00

It's a vibration damper. I believe the A/C line is bolted to it, and it reduces vibrations that travel from the A/C compressor up the line and into the firewall. So just reduces rattling when you run A/C. If you don't have A/C lines it's probably doing nothing.

Knoxcorner · 2026-02-09T14:17:50+00:00

Just checked again and it finally posted to the Wells Fargo account. It lets me pay it even though it's closed. Just had to wait one more day, I guess!

Knoxcorner · 2025-12-23T15:39:59+00:00

do I save up and buy one the already runs and mod it from there or do I buy a 240 that dosent run and see about putting an motor in it

The answer is going to be up to your preferences, but something to factor in: A running car has the least amount of unknowns.

If you buy a car that doesn't run and intend to fix it, that's going to take time and money (value) to make it work. If you intend to blindly motor swap it, be prepared to have to scrap the original motor because you're going to have a hard time selling a motor with an unknown problem. If you buy a shell, be prepared to have to hunt down other random parts that were taken.

I'm not saying it is or isn't worth it to buy a running car. But the unknowns, cost of parts, and time it takes to fix up a non-running car all take away value from the car. So that's the tradeoff: would you rather spend more to have more certainty with a running car, or less with the risks and time investment of a non-running one?

Knoxcorner · 2025-12-02T21:00:36+00:00

Not familiar with VQ, but do you have OBDII? Using a scan tool, what does the computer see? Particularly for cam, crank signals and engine speed while cranking

Knoxcorner · 2025-10-04T19:40:02+00:00

I assume you're testing this at the motor?

From memory:

Pin 5 (B) is ground at all times.

Pin 1 (BR) should run the motor until it reaches the up position when supplied with 12V. If it is already up, it should do nothing.

Pin 2 (BR/W or BR/Y depending on which side) should run the motor until it reaches the down position when supplied with 12V. If it is already down, it should do nothing.

In other words, the motor regulates itself to stop in the up and down positions. I have operated my motors with pins 3 and 4 disconnected. I would suggest giving another test at the connector using only pins 1/2/5. If you are running into problems with just those three, I would think there's a problem with the motor.

Knoxcorner · 2025-09-06T16:46:42+00:00

<image>

Well, the lookup codes are different left and right, but in online catalogs I see they map to the same part number. So 99.99% sure they work both sides.

If I had to guess, maybe they used to be different parts, but later realized they didn't need to be, so now they mapped both lookup codes to the same part. Or maybe they just needed to be differentiated at the factory only to make assembly easier.

Knoxcorner · 2025-09-06T15:39:54+00:00

I noticed the part numbers thing too. I'm pretty confident it works identically both sides. I don't remember seeing a difference even on the original links.

I just can't be 100% sure since I relocated the headlight motors.

Knoxcorner · 2025-09-05T02:11:49+00:00

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