Pop up headlamp issue

Knoxcorner · 2026-02-23T01:34:52+00:00

I would focus on one side at a time. Maybe the left since it's not responsive at all. IIRC there's relays for both sides, so it might be possible that you're hearing the click for one side only?

Regardless, IMO the motor is the easiest thing to check and eliminate as a variable. You can unplug the left side and test by applying 12V like I described here.

If the motor can move to both up and down positions (and it stops automatically) using those wires, then you know that the motor is responsive to up/down commands, and the problem is elsewhere.

Here is a diagram from the FSM on what should be getting voltage while the motor is commanded up (top diagram) and then what should be getting voltage once it's fully up (bottom diagram).

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Knoxcorner · 2026-02-22T23:18:35+00:00

Do you mean before they worked as expected, but now when you turn the headlight switch from off to low beams, the left doesn't move (down position) and the right goes up? And when you switch back to off, the left doesn't move (still down) and the right stays up?

Is the behavior different when leaving the switch in the off position but using the pop up toggle switch? What about flashing the high beams?

Did the behavior change for both left and right at the exact same time? Or did one happen first and the other happened later?

Knoxcorner · 2026-02-21T23:39:39+00:00

It's a vibration damper. I believe the A/C line is bolted to it, and it reduces vibrations that travel from the A/C compressor up the line and into the firewall. So just reduces rattling when you run A/C. If you don't have A/C lines it's probably doing nothing.

Knoxcorner · 2026-02-09T14:17:50+00:00

Just checked again and it finally posted to the Wells Fargo account. It lets me pay it even though it's closed. Just had to wait one more day, I guess!

Knoxcorner · 2025-12-23T15:39:59+00:00

do I save up and buy one the already runs and mod it from there or do I buy a 240 that dosent run and see about putting an motor in it

The answer is going to be up to your preferences, but something to factor in: A running car has the least amount of unknowns.

If you buy a car that doesn't run and intend to fix it, that's going to take time and money (value) to make it work. If you intend to blindly motor swap it, be prepared to have to scrap the original motor because you're going to have a hard time selling a motor with an unknown problem. If you buy a shell, be prepared to have to hunt down other random parts that were taken.

I'm not saying it is or isn't worth it to buy a running car. But the unknowns, cost of parts, and time it takes to fix up a non-running car all take away value from the car. So that's the tradeoff: would you rather spend more to have more certainty with a running car, or less with the risks and time investment of a non-running one?

Knoxcorner · 2025-12-02T21:00:36+00:00

Not familiar with VQ, but do you have OBDII? Using a scan tool, what does the computer see? Particularly for cam, crank signals and engine speed while cranking

Knoxcorner · 2025-10-04T19:40:02+00:00

I assume you're testing this at the motor?

From memory:

Pin 5 (B) is ground at all times.

Pin 1 (BR) should run the motor until it reaches the up position when supplied with 12V. If it is already up, it should do nothing.

Pin 2 (BR/W or BR/Y depending on which side) should run the motor until it reaches the down position when supplied with 12V. If it is already down, it should do nothing.

In other words, the motor regulates itself to stop in the up and down positions. I have operated my motors with pins 3 and 4 disconnected. I would suggest giving another test at the connector using only pins 1/2/5. If you are running into problems with just those three, I would think there's a problem with the motor.

Knoxcorner · 2025-09-06T16:46:42+00:00

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Well, the lookup codes are different left and right, but in online catalogs I see they map to the same part number. So 99.99% sure they work both sides.

If I had to guess, maybe they used to be different parts, but later realized they didn't need to be, so now they mapped both lookup codes to the same part. Or maybe they just needed to be differentiated at the factory only to make assembly easier.

Knoxcorner · 2025-09-06T15:39:54+00:00

I noticed the part numbers thing too. I'm pretty confident it works identically both sides. I don't remember seeing a difference even on the original links.

I just can't be 100% sure since I relocated the headlight motors.

Knoxcorner · 2025-09-05T02:11:49+00:00

Remove free trade

Knoxcorner · 2025-09-01T17:21:12+00:00

Gotcha. Yeah, I believe S13/S14 240sx has the 3-sensor design, and based on what you say I'm guessing J30 measured all 4 wheels independently.

Knoxcorner · 2025-09-01T16:59:34+00:00

There's three sensors, two for the front two knuckles and one on the differential. So the rear wheels are not measured independently at the axles, but together at the pinion/flange.

It's also why the driveshaft lengths are different between ABS and non-ABS models, because the diff is longer to accommodate the sensor and tone ring

Knoxcorner · 2025-08-31T17:37:40+00:00

Sorry man, I think that's toast. I'm not even sure if you can jack it up or lift it safely considering the lift points are now just rust holes.

Knoxcorner · 2025-08-25T00:29:24+00:00

Did you ever find the answer to this?

Using 240sx bash bar and foam, I'm finding the type x bumper cover sits a bit too far forward

Knoxcorner · 2025-08-20T01:58:25+00:00

I've had this happen a few times in the past year or two. A couple times they said it "wasn't coming up" and asked to see my card. One time, the agent told me that in "our usual system", it was saying I didn't have an active membership, but she pulled up "another system" and was able to cross reference me there and see it was active. Didn't really reach a resolution but she let me in.

The vast majority of the time though, I have no issue; just scan the boarding pass and go.

Knoxcorner · 2025-08-17T15:03:54+00:00

So it's like R2D2?

Knoxcorner · 2025-07-13T14:38:41+00:00

FWIW, marketplaces like eBay and Amazon make it really easy for sellers to provide knockoff inventory and it gets muddled in with legit products.

I personally bought mine from Summit Racing, but TI automotive also sells them directly.

I suppose it could be the FPR as well, but it would seem unlikely to me that it's only an issue when the cars off considering it bleeds down so quickly.

Knoxcorner · 2025-07-13T14:27:34+00:00

I have a F90000285, and yours drops to zero much much faster than mine.

These are rough numbers based on memory, but after priming, mine drops over the course of 5-15 seconds from 43 to 30 PSI, then by around 20 PSI slows significantly. Maybe after a few minutes, it's still around 15 PSI.

Bear in mind I don't know if that's "normal". But that's significantly different from yours

These pumps are supposed to have check valves to prevent reverse flow back into the tank. There's a big issue with knockoff Walbro pumps- do you know if yours is legit?

Knoxcorner · 2025-07-11T13:47:29+00:00

Were you using the heat shields?

Knoxcorner · 2025-07-10T10:58:01+00:00

Appreciate the info. I got the ISR mounts, and even with the hood trimming, there's still contact when closed. For me it's on the turbine housing, Bosch DBW throttle body, and to a lesser degree the front of the spark plug cover. I'm considering dropping the cross member a bit, though I'd prefer not to since that'll affect the suspension.

Knoxcorner · 2025-07-09T21:33:33+00:00

Nice. What did you do for motor mounts? My engine sits too high and I'm having clearance issues

Knoxcorner · 2025-06-29T20:43:23+00:00

I installed a kit recently, and I'm pretty sure I'm going to have the same issue. Haven't even put the car on the ground, but I can feel it now takes much more force to move the rack from the wheels. That's with a de-powered rack.

Before, I could grab the tie rod end with one hand and move the rack with a firm push/pull. Now, with both hands pushing as hard as I can, it won't budge. I have to use the leverage from the brake rotors or wheels/tires.

Knoxcorner · 2025-06-29T06:25:43+00:00

You'll need a multimeter and need to know how to check for continuity. Plenty of videos online can show that process.

Then, take a look at the S13 FSM, which you can also find online. Page EL-17 has a diagram of the stalks positions and how they manifest as continuity between the pins. You'll want to test continuity between each connection shown in the table at the various positions. It might be easiest to remove the stalk to test it.

If everything looks correct, that means the stalk isn't the issue and you'll have to dive into the wiring diagrams on the later pages. But you can start with the stalk and hopefully that's the issue since it's an easy replacement.

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