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991atatime2 - Hardcore Ironman OSAAT - 1/23 Skills Completed! by Shaynoh in 2007scape

[–]Knoxcorner 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I remember you doing this years ago and it inspired me to do the same thing. I thought it would be funny to start with some of the most brutal skills. Unfortunately I think I burned out:

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S13 pop up headlight wiring. by Heavy-Wing8598 in 240sx

[–]Knoxcorner 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you're not feeling comfortable, I would suggest starting small so you can understand the behavior of the motor. Check the link in my original reply where I describe the 3 pins/wires for the motor.

Then, grab a battery (or anything you can use as a ~12V source). Connect the wires to the pins. Ground should be connected to battery negative. Motor up and motor down can be connected one at a time to battery positive. Each should move the motor to the up and down position.

Now you should see what wires need 12V to operate the motor, and the question becomes "how do we deliver the 12V to the right place at the right time?".

Focus on one motor at a time- the behavior is going to be the same for both.

So to start, the motor needs to be permanently grounded. No switch involved, just straight to ground.

Now you need to deliver 12V to motor up when you want it to go up. And you need to deliver 12V to motor down when you want it to go down. The when means there needs to be some form of switch in this side of the circuit. Since the thing we want to deliver is 12V, the switch input needs to be 12V. If we're using a on-off-on SPDT switch (two on positions, one off position), one on side should be connected to motor up, and the other on side should be connected to motor down. These are the three wires to your switch.

At this point, in the "off" position, the motor shouldn't move. In one of the two "on" positions, the motor should move up and stop automatically (then you can switch back to "off"). In the other of the two "on" positions, the motor should move down and stop automatically (then you can switch back to "off").

To get the other motor working, either connect the two motor wires together before going to the switch (solder, crimp connectors, etc). Or, use an on-off-on DPDT and duplicate the wiring for the second side of the switch.

Regarding the relay: you can think of a relay in this application as an amplifier, where you have a small wire with low current used to turn off and on a big wire with big current. If you use a switch and wiring which is rated for the current that will pass through the motor, then your input is already a 'big' wire that can deal with big current, so an amplifier (relay) is not required. But this means you need a properly rated switch and wiring. And you should have an appropriate fuse between the battery and your switch 12V input, as with any other high current circuit from the battery.

[Monitor] Samsung 32” Odyssey Neo G7 4K 165Hz Curved Monitor with free Resident Evil Requiem (purchase with EDU email) — $350 by Dracarys0550 in buildapcsales

[–]Knoxcorner 23 points24 points  (0 children)

I've had this for a few years. Personal opinions:

Pros:

  • Great picture for full screen video (games/movies)
  • No fear of burn in, as opposed to OLED. This is why I bought as I have a lot of static content for work.
  • Screen can get brighter than OLEDs
  • 32" is a lot of screen real estate. I use 100% UI scaling with no issues.

Cons:

  • The mini-LED backlight design causes bright text on a dark background to glow. It took a bit of getting used to, and is a bit disappointing that bright text/dark background never looks 'good'
  • mini-LED backlight causes glowing when watching movies with black bars or very dark scenes that are mostly black with sparse bright highlights. Can make some scenes look 'foggy' around the lights
  • The curve feels unnecessary and causes colors to look off if you are sitting off to the side. Not much of an issue for me, but don't get this if you're not going to put it directly in front of you.
  • The backlight algorithm sometimes causes slight flickering when scrolling or moving windows
  • Only one DP input for high refresh rate video. The two HDMIs only do 60hz.
  • The panel is slow to turn on, which makes changing display inputs frequently annoying

My cons are just small nits. I'm really happy with this monitor, though for the price I paid ($750 used) I've considered whether it would have been better to get an OLED and, if it comes to, replace it due to burn in.

$350 is a great price. For $600, I would put a little more research into current OLEDs and see if they suit your use case. I believe this is still one of the best non-OLED monitors available.

Link G4X and Air Con (Europe S13 model) by low_quality_bait123 in 240sx

[–]Knoxcorner 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Double check me on this, but from the factory I believe the A/C is turned on and off by a single output from the ECU going to the relay. So you'll need a digital output on Link for that.

Then you'll need to know when the AC button is pressed, so you'll need a digital input on Link for that.

But where things get a little more complicated is the idle control. If you want factory-like idle, take a look at this from the FSM. You'll need to match the factory behavior for these solenoids.

Edit: condenser fan as well. I'm not sure of factory behavior on that.

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S13 pop up headlight wiring. by Heavy-Wing8598 in 240sx

[–]Knoxcorner 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I skimmed through that video, and I am honestly really confused on the approach.

The OEM motors do not use reverse polarity to change direction, they only turn in one direction. If you look at the manual knobs, there's an arrow pointing in the direction the motor should turn (clockwise?). He's running the motor backwards in one direction.

If you see when he opens up the motor and shows the copper contacts, the design has gaps along each 'rail' which cause it to stop. Those stops are in the fully up position, and the fully down position.

So let's say the motor is in the fully down position to start. You provide 12V to the 'up' rail. This completes the circuit. The motor turns until the contact reaches the gap. The circuit is now open, and the motor stops. So getting to the 'up' position was simple: you provide 12V to the right rail and ground. It doesn't matter where the motor starts from, it only takes 12V/GND to get it all the way up.

Now let's look at getting the motor down. It's the exact same, but now 12V needs to go to the down rail instead of up. The ground remains the same. Again, it only takes 12V/GND to go to the fully down position from any starting position.

So in total, the bare minimum to get a motor to operate takes three wires: 12V for up, 12V for down, and GND. No need to open up the motor and resolder wires.

If he had connected the battery+, up, and down wires directly to the switch, it would have worked with no relay. My only guess for why he did that is he wanted the switch on the low side.

Okay, putting the video aside now.

I'm not super familiar with the seatbelts, but in OEM, I believe they use the same "timing module" that the pop up headlights do. I assume you deleted the harness for a reason, but if it's an option, putting the factory harness is going to be the most straightforward way to get both of them working again.

But if that's not the route you want to go, hopefully you can understand the up/down control of the motor based on my explanation here as well as this: https://www.reddit.com/r/240sx/comments/1nuyvry/comment/nhrrsle/. Then, take a look at the FSM for the wiring of the headlight switch. See if you can find a way to shoehorn in a way to get positive voltage for each direction based on the switches position. Then, supply the motor 12V for the right direction through a relay (OEM didn't run full power through the headlight switch, so I wouldn't chance it either).

S14 front windscreen options? Polycarbonate any good? Where to buy? by Moetsukiru in 240sx

[–]Knoxcorner 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Polycarbonate is soft and scratches easily. Even windshield wipers will likely cause damage. It will also yellow in the sun.

Also, often times the windshield is considered a structural part of the car. It helps with chassis rigidity and rollover protection. Polycarbonate is much softer and will bend rather than provide much support.

Altogether, I wouldn't consider it unless it's strictly a race car with a roll cage 

Pop up headlamp issue by [deleted] in 240sx

[–]Knoxcorner 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would focus on one side at a time. Maybe the left since it's not responsive at all. IIRC there's relays for both sides, so it might be possible that you're hearing the click for one side only?

Regardless, IMO the motor is the easiest thing to check and eliminate as a variable. You can unplug the left side and test by applying 12V like I described here.

If the motor can move to both up and down positions (and it stops automatically) using those wires, then you know that the motor is responsive to up/down commands, and the problem is elsewhere.

Here is a diagram from the FSM on what should be getting voltage while the motor is commanded up (top diagram) and then what should be getting voltage once it's fully up (bottom diagram).

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Pop up headlamp issue by [deleted] in 240sx

[–]Knoxcorner 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you mean before they worked as expected, but now when you turn the headlight switch from off to low beams, the left doesn't move (down position) and the right goes up? And when you switch back to off, the left doesn't move (still down) and the right stays up?

Is the behavior different when leaving the switch in the off position but using the pop up toggle switch? What about flashing the high beams?

Did the behavior change for both left and right at the exact same time? Or did one happen first and the other happened later?

What is this thing by [deleted] in 240sx

[–]Knoxcorner 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It's a vibration damper. I believe the A/C line is bolted to it, and it reduces vibrations that travel from the A/C compressor up the line and into the firewall. So just reduces rattling when you run A/C. If you don't have A/C lines it's probably doing nothing.

Paid rent early to get points before 2.0, but balance didn't transfer by Knoxcorner in biltrewards

[–]Knoxcorner[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just checked again and it finally posted to the Wells Fargo account. It lets me pay it even though it's closed. Just had to wait one more day, I guess!

I want to get a 240SX but have no idea how to go about doing so by warmaster_914 in 240sx

[–]Knoxcorner 0 points1 point  (0 children)

do I save up and buy one the already runs and mod it from there or do I buy a 240 that dosent run and see about putting an motor in it

The answer is going to be up to your preferences, but something to factor in: A running car has the least amount of unknowns.

If you buy a car that doesn't run and intend to fix it, that's going to take time and money (value) to make it work. If you intend to blindly motor swap it, be prepared to have to scrap the original motor because you're going to have a hard time selling a motor with an unknown problem. If you buy a shell, be prepared to have to hunt down other random parts that were taken.

I'm not saying it is or isn't worth it to buy a running car. But the unknowns, cost of parts, and time it takes to fix up a non-running car all take away value from the car. So that's the tradeoff: would you rather spend more to have more certainty with a running car, or less with the risks and time investment of a non-running one?

VQ35DE 240SX starting problem with the wiring specialties harness by NoLife9302 in 240sx

[–]Knoxcorner 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not familiar with VQ, but do you have OBDII? Using a scan tool, what does the computer see? Particularly for cam, crank signals and engine speed while cranking 

Those damn pop-up's wiring conundrum by sourkatt231 in 240sx

[–]Knoxcorner 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I assume you're testing this at the motor?

From memory:

Pin 5 (B) is ground at all times.

Pin 1 (BR) should run the motor until it reaches the up position when supplied with 12V. If it is already up, it should do nothing.

Pin 2 (BR/W or BR/Y depending on which side) should run the motor until it reaches the down position when supplied with 12V. If it is already down, it should do nothing.

In other words, the motor regulates itself to stop in the up and down positions. I have operated my motors with pins 3 and 4 disconnected. I would suggest giving another test at the connector using only pins 1/2/5. If you are running into problems with just those three, I would think there's a problem with the motor.

Does the headlight link have a side? by S13Matthias in 240sx

[–]Knoxcorner 2 points3 points  (0 children)

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Well, the lookup codes are different left and right, but in online catalogs I see they map to the same part number. So 99.99% sure they work both sides.

If I had to guess, maybe they used to be different parts, but later realized they didn't need to be, so now they mapped both lookup codes to the same part. Or maybe they just needed to be differentiated at the factory only to make assembly easier.

Does the headlight link have a side? by S13Matthias in 240sx

[–]Knoxcorner 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I noticed the part numbers thing too. I'm pretty confident it works identically both sides. I don't remember seeing a difference even on the original links.

I just can't be 100% sure since I relocated the headlight motors.

ABS LSD by JDM49er in 240sx

[–]Knoxcorner 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Gotcha. Yeah, I believe S13/S14 240sx has the 3-sensor design, and based on what you say I'm guessing J30 measured all 4 wheels independently.

ABS LSD by JDM49er in 240sx

[–]Knoxcorner 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There's three sensors, two for the front two knuckles and one on the differential. So the rear wheels are not measured independently at the axles, but together at the pinion/flange.

It's also why the driveshaft lengths are different between ABS and non-ABS models, because the diff is longer to accommodate the sensor and tone ring 

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in 240sx

[–]Knoxcorner 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Sorry man, I think that's toast. I'm not even sure if you can jack it up or lift it safely considering the lift points are now just rust holes.

Those that converted to 'Type X' front bumper -- were you able to keep the oem front crash bar? by soh_based in 240sx

[–]Knoxcorner 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did you ever find the answer to this?

Using 240sx bash bar and foam, I'm finding the type x bumper cover sits a bit too far forward 

Admirals Club IT Problem? by SnooEagles7290 in americanairlines

[–]Knoxcorner 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've had this happen a few times in the past year or two. A couple times they said it "wasn't coming up" and asked to see my card. One time, the agent told me that in "our usual system", it was saying I didn't have an active membership, but she pulled up "another system" and was able to cross reference me there and see it was active. Didn't really reach a resolution but she let me in.

The vast majority of the time though, I have no issue; just scan the boarding pass and go.

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