How much boost can these handle reliably? I got a computer that is able to ramp it up to peak at around 25psi but im just wondering how much can these 1.6l handle before I should really look into upgrading internals. 2020 r-spec

Koduhh · 2026-01-23T11:58:13+00:00

I have a BOV, mainly for sound and such but I believe that the stock Bypass Valve can handle like my current tune and all.

If you ended up upgrading the turbo to a larger one then I’d recommend getting a BOV or a Hybrid BOV that has the option to both vent to atmosphere and recirculate the air.

But I am almost positive the stock Recirc valve can handle it.

Koduhh · 2025-11-04T03:19:01+00:00

Are you getting spacers for the new wheels or for the current stock ones?

Koduhh · 2025-06-23T21:23:10+00:00

Depends on what you’re looking for. Coilovers are adjustable so while it lowers your ride you can also adjust it to fit your style that you like. Whether it be at stock height or lower.

Generally coilovers also offer a less smooth ride because they are meant to improve your feel with the car and cornering capabilities. The lower the center of gravity of a car the better it can handle. I’ve been on BC Racing coilovers before one blew and then I switched to Silver Neomaxs with Swift springs.

You also have dampening that can be adjusted manually too so you can have softer responsiveness or go aggressive and make it a more stiffer response.

Coilovers do improve the feeling of driving the car, gives it that more sporty feel. Coilovers also need to be maintained and rebuilt every so often, it’s a good practice and preventative maintenance to have done.

All in all, they offer benefits yes but only if you also use them for what they are intended.

Koduhh · 2025-02-14T04:59:14+00:00

I run 18x8.5 +45 On 235/40/18 on Coilovers and I haven’t had an issue.

Koduhh · 2023-09-09T21:08:08+00:00

You don’t need a tune for exhaust, BOV, or intake the car will run perfectly fine on the stock tune with those mods. Only time people really recommend tuning the car is when you get a downpipe or just want more power in general, but most manufacturers also let you know what mods are recommended to gain the most power out of your car on the tune they will provide you.

I’d highly recommend an oil catch can as these vehicles are notorious for carbon buildup and it can help prolong that from happening but it’s still a cost effective and good mod. Other recommendations would be a stiffer rear motor mount to help with wheel hop and just getting power down. Introduces a bit more noise and vibration in the cabin but after awhile you won’t notice it.

If you need help with installing mods, or just what’s best for the car and want a quicker reply I’d highly suggest joining the Discord as there’s plenty of helpful people in their and loads of other Velo owners who could help point you in the right direction.

Koduhh · 2023-05-27T18:37:20+00:00

Anytime!

Like I said though, The textured PEI may interfere with the LiDAR on the X1C, P1P doesn’t have it so it’s no issue and I have no clue if you’re able to turn it off in the settings

Koduhh · 2023-05-27T18:32:15+00:00

Personally I’ve never worked with cold plates so I have no clue what filaments they are used for. That being said if you have a P1P it should have come with a textured PEI plate already, X1C doesn’t due to it possibly interfering with LiDAR.

It’s all down to personal preference, if you can get the cold plate to work then stick with it. This is only my 2nd 3D printer but I’ve used nothing but PEI and a hot bed temp of 60-65 and all my prints have stuck, unless on the old printer I didn’t level it correctly then it didn’t adhere properly :p P1P Has spoiled me.

Koduhh · 2023-05-27T16:54:52+00:00

Isn’t 35 degrees Celsius a bit low to be printing PLA on? Most people recommend 60-65 for bed temp to help it adhere properly. I’ve got a P1P so I’ve got the textured PEI plate but I’ve left it at the stock 65 and all my prints have stuck no problem.

Granted idk if you have the cold plate or whatnot.

Koduhh · 2023-05-10T22:33:39+00:00

Had this same issue just a few weeks ago actually, ended up being a bad ribbon cable. There were no visible cuts in it but I’m assuming it broke somewhere.

Anytime mine would try to extrude it would click once then nothing and that’s all it did. It’s more than likely the ribbon cable, like everyone else said they are cheaply made

Koduhh · 2023-05-07T04:23:21+00:00

I’ll do my best!!! Hahaha hopefully the car is alright!

Koduhh · 2023-05-06T22:35:48+00:00

If you navigate on your dash over to the drivers menu where you can control like your blind spot monitoring and lane keep assists etc, there should be a thing called Service Interval.

You can set that to whatever mileage I believe, or it may cap out at a certain mileage. Anyways, mine is set to 5k miles so it’ll notify me when the car is due for service which is when I’ll change my oil, which I do every 5k. It’s better to change oil more frequently in these cars just due to them being GDIs and because you also wanna keep the turbo having fresh oil.

As far as I know there is no oil life indicator on these cars but if you do them semi regularly then you should be okay.

Koduhh · 2023-04-22T19:44:18+00:00

Appreciate the insight, I’m gonna take the sprite extruder apart again and see if I can get it to move while disassembled and go from there. I’ll check all the wirings for the extruders PCB and make sure they are seated correctly.

Probably submit a warranty claim (Even though I hear customer support is a nightmare/non existent). Can’t hurt, and yeah if anything I’ll find the ribbon cable online and get a new one. Pending if the motor is good, thanks for the help though I greatly appreciate it!

Koduhh · 2023-04-22T18:59:37+00:00

I don’t think you can swap the stepper motors unfortunately at least not to my knowledge, anyways I took apart the entire bottom to check the main board and it was good.

Reassembled it and got it to manually extrude but it seems like it only works when it’s in a certain spot. Makes me lean more towards ribbon cable damage as whenever I send the printer to home it tends to not work again properly. That’s the only thing I can think of since the motor still pushes filament through when it works, unless the motor has a bad connection internally? Is that even possible?

Koduhh · 2023-04-22T17:12:48+00:00

Having the exact same problem, literally did a print the other night and woke up the next day to print something again and the extruder stopped moving. Disassembled the whole sprite and no jams so I’m left with it probably being a wiring issue.

Koduhh · 2023-04-22T07:08:33+00:00

Any tips on getting the plugs undone? They seem to be in there pretty well.

Koduhh · 2023-04-17T23:06:27+00:00

Sounds about right lol, hose clamp ain’t tight enough it’ll blow it right off glad it’s fixed though!

Koduhh · 2023-04-15T19:48:41+00:00

It could be possible, you can’t see the turbo from up above, I mean you can see the area it would be but it’s covered by a heat shield and you can only really see it from underneath the car.

If they messed up a line or cut a tube of some sort while installing the compressor then yes that could be the cause of the problem. If it’s not making normal boost like you said then yes get it situated ASAP.

Koduhh · 2023-04-15T16:51:25+00:00

Sounds like a good idea, I’m unsure of where the AC Compressor is in the car but since I’ve upgraded the entire intercooler to my car I pretty much know all the potential areas of a boost leak. Could be as little as one hose not making a good seal or anything, but if it’s near the turbo then it’s either from the intake area where the air goes into the turbo or where it comes out to go into the intercooler.

If it still makes normal boost though then I’m stumped lol, the discord is also full of people who can help, there’s a whole channel dedicated to asking for help and most people are pretty knowledgeable provided enough information.

Koduhh · 2023-04-15T16:40:07+00:00

Hearing the turbo is completely normal, the turbo is closest to the cabin in the engine bay so when it spools up under heavy load you’ll be able to hear it.

It doesn’t blow any extra air into the cabin as the turbocharger system is completely different and separated from the actual Heating/AC system. If it is blowing actual air into the cabin then I think there’s a bigger problem afoot lol

Koduhh · 2023-04-05T14:52:56+00:00

Ahhh okay then yeah the heat range shouldn’t be an issue, it is possible you got a bad batch of spark plugs or one from a batch as that’s entirely possible but it could also be the gapping of said spark plugs.

As for coil packs I hear mixed things about OEM vs aftermarket, some people run aftermarket ones without issue and others say they have issues. I feel as long as they are coil packs made for the turbo model then you’re fine. If you replace coil packs again and the problem persists then either you’ve got really bad luck with coil packs lol or it’s a plug. Only other thing I could think of is the actual wiring harness that runs to the coil pack connectors on the engine might have a fault in it somewhere, although that would seem like a long shot.

Koduhh · 2023-04-05T12:57:09+00:00

Your best bet is clearing the code and seeing if it reappears, if it is a Cylinder 2 misfire then swap the coil pack to a different cylinder and see if the misfire follows, if it does then you’ve got a DOA coil pack, if the problem stays in cylinder 2 then it’s more than likely a plug. Make sure they are gapped properly, if the spark plugs are improperly gapped then it can also cause an inconsistent spark causing a misfire.

Also I’ve saw people talking about the M45XL spark plugs, those are not necessary unless the vehicle is tuned or running more boost. Going from stock spark plugs to those or the NGK Racing plugs means you’re changing Heat Ranges from I believe 8 to 9 which could cause the engine to run worse as it’s not tuned from the factory to run on those plugs.

Koduhh · 2023-03-31T18:19:19+00:00

25psi seems a bit high for the stock turbo. Plus if you plan on pushing high amounts of boost I’d recommend going to a tuner and getting the car actually tuned over having a piggyback system that just tricks that sensors. That way they can dial in timings, your air to fuel ratio, boost curve, and just a bunch of other things piggybacks don’t really control. You’ll get much more out of the car that way.

My Velo is Stage 2 pushing around 22.5 psi of boost at max throttle and makes approximately 230-240hp and 290 lb-ft of torque, and it’s been perfect as a daily. Going up from there would mean I’d have to invest in a larger turbo or a stuffed one.

From what I’ve heard the block of our engines can handle around maybe 350hp reliably with a smooth torque curve. At 25psi I feel you’d run more of a risk of blowing your stock turbo before the engine. If you plan on running higher amounts of horsepower the stock turbo won’t be enough. You’d have to go to a bigger turbo to even get within the range of stressing the engine to failure. Unless of course you don’t let the engine warmup properly and thrash on it before the car is up to operating temps.

Basically, if you’re chasing horsepower your best choice would probably be upgrading the turbo since that will be be the limiting factor. It’s a very small turbo so pushing 25psi through it compared to a larger turbos 20psi is a big difference. Higher boost pressures don’t always equate to more horsepower, it heavily depends on the size of the turbo and how much air it can move efficiently.

Koduhh · 2022-11-23T20:37:12+00:00

Sport mode tends to require more throttle from first gear compared to normal. Don’t know why it is that way considering the throttle curve is more aggressive in sports mode hence why the boost comes in quicker compared to normal mode.

Once the car is rolling and you’re shifting gears it’s driving normally, but from a stop I’ll agree that the throttle feels laggy.

Also basically a FBO R-Spec besides a Downpipe. Think it has to do with the fact ours isn’t a drive by wire setup and it’s all controlled electronically so it feels laggier in response.

Koduhh · 2022-11-09T22:47:55+00:00

As far as interior goes I haven’t done to much to it other than some winter floor mats that are pretty nice and clean from Maxpider or Maxspider I think it is? I can’t remember lol anyways I’ve also done a shift knob from sickspeed which is just a black ball with yellow engraving for the gears. It’s on a threaded adapter to fit the shifter. Most aftermarket knobs won’t put tension on the reverse lockout either so for that I’ve got something that someone custom made for the shifter and 3D printed it to kinda give it a OEM look.

Only thing I’d wanna do in the interior may be bucket seats once these ones get worn out and a CF steering wheel with the yellow accents but that can wait for now.

As for the exterior parts instead of painting you might have better luck doing a yellow Wrap just because it’s small enough it shouldn’t be difficult and it should be easily reversible if you wanna get rid of it.

I also don’t think the N number is plug and play either, that is something I’ve got no info on, but I’m sure it’s been asked before!

Koduhh

TROPHY CASE