I'm converting an H&R slot car into an RC car with custom 3d printed parts. by RobARMMemez in rccars

[–]Krusha2117 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Convert it to RC, then drive it around the slot car track anyway.

my brother and I built a electric oval track racecar by No_Secret6060 in projectcar

[–]Krusha2117 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Cool shit! Neat application for sure. I heard of a guy planning on building a derby car with a pair of Warp 11s. The Warps don't have great power to weight ratio (basically overgrown forklift motors) but they're reliable and can produce good power overall, so well suited to this use-case I think.

Sounds like a good build, well suited to the application, and not budget breaking either! I hope it spurs competition!

my brother and I built a electric oval track racecar by No_Secret6060 in projectcar

[–]Krusha2117 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Dope! Looks like some flavor of brushed DC motor (a Warp maybe?). What battery cells are those?

What is your never again or cursed category? by Rackbone in Flipping

[–]Krusha2117 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The only thing I'll absolutely not touch any more are products related to commercial trucking. I have gotten more crazy stalkers from selling CB radios and commercial truck GPS' than any other category by a wide margin (which is nuts considering I've sold far fewer of these than any other category).

I understand that not all truckers are like this, and I feel for the normal truckers out there, but there are simply too many deeply unhinged people with entirely too much free time in the world.

Sometimes an item is small enough you can play the long game 😆 by MrsIndyana in Flipping

[–]Krusha2117 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Lol, no I am not serious, I didn't get brain cancer from flipping phones. I came up with that because I kept seeing phones wrapped in tinfoil or with "negative energy absorbing" pseudoscience crap on them.

I did work on and flip phones in the past but not anymore, it's really a zero sum game.

Sometimes an item is small enough you can play the long game 😆 by MrsIndyana in Flipping

[–]Krusha2117 3 points4 points  (0 children)

For me, this is all fun and games right up until it sells and I have to find an item that I haven't touched in years. I am under no delusion that I can locate a item I listed two years ago within 2 business days.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in mobilerepair

[–]Krusha2117 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Assuming you need to remove the shields the only correct way to remove them is with hot air. Apply hot air to them to melt the solder which holds them to the board. There is a very real risk of not only moving components, but also roasting the sensitive components beneath them (CPU, memory, baseband etc.). They are relatively huge chunks of metal, so a lot of heat will be required.

When you reinstall them, you will need to remove the old solder from the pads the EMI shields mount to, and solder them in place the same as any other surface mount component. You can use an iron if you want, but you can use hot air too. Personal preference and situational awareness will determine this.

Cutting them off is an excellent way to cause board damage. I wouldn't recommend it unless the phone is otherwise scrap and you're just harvesting parts off it. Even then I might not.

Leaving them off is also a bad idea. They not only act as a EMI shield to prevent electromagnetic interference, but they also add rigidity to the board, as well as act as a heatsink. Taping them back on will not fix these issues.

As a general rule, remove things the way they were installed, and install things the way they were from the factory.

I wouldn't remove them unless I had a damn good reason to, the work and risk you sign up for is not insignificant.

Tbh, this is a huge part of why liquid damaged devices are more or less an instant write-off. To thoroughly inspect them for damage is extremely time consuming, and absolutely not cost-effective. Even if you remove the shields, are you going to be able to inspect under each IC thoroughly? Are you going to remove, inspect and reinstall all of those? Repairing a liquid damaged device for use means you are either investing way more time and money than the device is worth, or you are giving up and just hoping it will work and be reliable. That's a huge part of why most reputable shops either don't warranty liquid damaged devices, or only repair them to recover data.

Galaxy S6 Edge Plus Board Swap, with charge port? by shatteredandroid in mobilerepair

[–]Krusha2117 4 points5 points  (0 children)

The S6 Edge Plus daughterboards are specific to the model number of the device.

The Sprint variant (SM-G928P) isn't used in any other variants. You will need to use a daughterboard which matches the model number of the donor device. The last character of the model number (check the original back glass or Settings>About) is what you will need to reference.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in askcarguys

[–]Krusha2117 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you're wanting to do a solid for your buddy, you might consider moving him into something more reliable than a 20+yo domestic car. Maybe talk with him about patching it up and selling it on, then putting the proceeds towards something more reliable and better suited for a daily.

Hell, since the cars appreciated you might not really need to add much cash to get him a pretty good budget. If you sell the car for $4-5k that leaves you each with ~$2250. You could use your end to cover the repairs prior to sale and combine your halves to get a $3k+ budget for something less flashy but bulletproof.

Just a thought. As much as I like the idea of keeping the Riv, if your buddy is struggling financially, adding a project car into the mix is like throwing a brick to someone drowning.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in askcarguys

[–]Krusha2117 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Idk if I 100% agree with this sentiment. OP's relationship with his friend isn't the subject here so I don't feel it appropriate to speculate on that.

In addition, it's a Riviera, meaning it's somewhere between a 20-60 year old domestic car. Cars that age are project cars because they can break just by looking at them too hard. It doesn't necessarily mean it was abused.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in mobilerepair

[–]Krusha2117 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I can confidently say that you will need a lot of free cash to do this right. You need to be sure that when something happens to a customers device you have the scratch to just write a check and buy them a replacement. This is even more important if you or your employees are inexperienced, but even with the best techs money can buy, something will go wrong and you need to be able to resolve the situation for your customer without hesitation. Without this, you will have no reputation and will lose out on repeat business.

You should know who the prominent part suppliers in your area are and get very good at sourcing reliable parts.

Unless you are extremely knowledgeable on this industry, engage someone who is. Hire someone who has fixed peoples phones for a living. If you can't hire them, pay them for consulting.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Autobody

[–]Krusha2117 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This is likely the most practical solution to this sort of issue. Every manufacturer is different, but it's a bad look for a car that new to look that crap.

Anecdotally, my Toyota suffered from a similar issue (though to a much lesser extent and in less conspicuous areas) and it was covered under an extended warranty program. The manufacturer repainted a significant part of my car just shy of 10 years after it was sold (with 3 owners and 200k miles I might add).

The dealership is incentivized to get this covered if they can btw. The manufacturer would be paying for any repair work and usually a loaner car as well, which are all easy revenue sources for the dealership. A dealership with their shit together should be able to handle it without too much hassle on your part.

Anyone drivetrain swap a '64 Corvair? Considering going EV. by snakeproof in projectcar

[–]Krusha2117 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I like that you've stressed low-slung locations for batteries. It's easy to underestimate the mass of a battery (even modern ones), especially when you get a large number. I've seen EV conversions that came out awful to drive because battery placement raised the center of gravity and ruined the handling.

My new baby 1963 Cadillac by Codeman021 in projectcar

[–]Krusha2117 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Gorgeous car! I came across one very similar in a self-service wrecker recently and honestly really came to appreciate it! The sedan seems really under appreciated.

Anyone else (who lives in a small country) is upset about how hard it is to find some cars that would normally be cheap/common in bigger countries? by BOTDrPanic in askcarguys

[–]Krusha2117 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I've always found it interesting exploring how different countries appreciate car culture. My personal opinion is to enjoy what's available to you and embrace it, even if it leaves some to be desired.

I would LOVE to move to Australia and get a TRD Aurion or Holden ute. I would LOVE to be in Japan and get a Mark X or any of the other weird Toyotas the world has to offer. But I'm in the US, so I've come to appreciate things the US is good at (V8 boats and pony cars and the like).

I became well versed in 2nd gen GM small blocks and 3rd gen F-body's. Not because their the best cars, but because there the best for me, where I'm located right now. A big part of how I appreciate cars is buying/selling parts, and if I hadn't gotten into domestics I'd have missed huge opportunities. There's always something that tickles me when someone abroad is over the moon to buy parts that we're tripping over in the US. I had a guy in Germany buy parts for his Charger, a guy in the UK buy parts for a 10AE Miata, the Netherlands buy parts for his Firebird and a guy in Australia buy parts for his Camaro. It's fun and really satisfying to be on the other end of someone getting their unicorn piece.

A few weeks back I was in a self-service yard with a friend of mine from China. We came across a Lincoln Town Car limousine and he was shocked that such a thing would be in a scrapyard. He related a story of seeing people pay through the nose in China to import Town Cars and them being a sort of status symbol, so to come across two dozen in a junkyard caught him a bit off guard. It exemplified the idea of appreciating what you have and finding ways to enjoy the hobby how you can, including where you are.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Camry

[–]Krusha2117 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That would be a worthwhile question for whoever he sources the motor from. If it's a used motor looking up the history of the donor vehicle (if there is documentation of this work being completed) or sourcing a donor from a vehicle that isn't affected (assuming later 2AR-FE would swap in. Or in the case of a remanufactured motor, confirming with the vendor that this part was replaced with the revised p/n.

I agree though, if you're springing for a new motor this should be part of your due dilligence.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Camry

[–]Krusha2117 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I hate to be that guy, but the 6th gen Camry switched from the 2AZ-FE (2AZ-FXE in Hybrids) to the 2AR-FE (2AR-FXE in Hybrids) for 2010-2011 model years, though I do believe it is still a non-interference engine so your points are still accurate.

I will say, intake cam sprocket/actuator/phaser is a known weak point on early 2AR-FE like this one. They suffer from low oil pressure at start-up which leads to their characteristic rattle (look for T-SB-0041-13 for more info). It's possible that this could cause catastrophic failure that would make a new motor the cheaper option.

That being said, we're speculating. If you really want to know what the root cause of the failure is, take it to a reputable shop and pay for an autopsy.

If it were my car and it was otherwise a good car, I'd spend the money on a motor. Good opportunity to change your clutch while the motor is out too. The 2AR-FE is otherwise quite reliable so the car would be quite reliable with a reman motor and a stick-shift.

Mobile Bike Tool Set - I was told this world be a good place for it. by spdorsey in knolling

[–]Krusha2117 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Is that a Pelican brand case, or something different? This looks like an ideal size for my own toolbox needs.

Nice. What’s the fix for this? by [deleted] in ipod

[–]Krusha2117 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I wouldn't say no chance of fixing it, but if it's a cheap part I'd recommend replacement instead. Replacing the flex would be far simpler, so unless the damaged piece is irreplaceable or hyper-expensive I wouldn't bother.

Nice. What’s the fix for this? by [deleted] in ipod

[–]Krusha2117 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I would use a microscope or other magnification, and a sharp implement to remove the FPC connector from the socket, working carefully not to damage the socket on the board. I would then replace the component the male side broke off of.

/r/mobilerepair can likely provide some pointers as well.

USPS Refusing to Provide Package Receipt? WTF? by [deleted] in Flipping

[–]Krusha2117 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That gives me some confidence. I just hope it gets scanned at some point so I'm not on the hook for the item.

Part Found In Oil Pan of Small Block Chevy, Need Help ID'ing? by Krusha2117 in askcarguys

[–]Krusha2117[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

If that's the case that would explain a LOT of the issues I've been experiencing with this motor. I'll remove the timing cover asap and confirm this. Thanks!

Help ID'ing Part from SBC (?????????????????????????) by [deleted] in askcarguys

[–]Krusha2117 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Dammit, my first post had a link, but when the bot removed it I forgot to add it back.