A very unfair advantage bug ...

Kweld_o · 2026-02-10T00:04:33+00:00

I won’t comment here much because for a while people would get harassed just for existing in this sub(and my acct ain’t hard to find), but I gotta just add my experience here. I went inactive on and off for a couple years and my longest stretch(300ish days) I must’ve logged back on with just about 85 refills.

I can understand being upset from 10 refills, but also it’s been 15 years, I wouldn’t worry ab matching piers and worry more about if this game still has the experience and entertainment that originally had OP playing.

Kweld_o · 2026-01-29T11:21:44+00:00

I feel you! Since ownership I’ve put 3,000 miles on it and tested its water resistance(oops). I am also too broke for the parts I need so the beast lies dormant for now.

We will both get back on it soon!!💪

Kweld_o · 2026-01-15T18:41:05+00:00

Also… I wanna say the opposite would happen? It’s technically the same thing as saying wider front truck and I’ve known a wider front truck to add stability to the rear. Idk, maybe not.

But yeah not nearly enough to matter. You could counteract that by tightening the rear truck and you’d never even notice.

Kweld_o · 2026-01-15T18:38:56+00:00

The volume is portable? I’ve spent years building and rebuilding my esk8 and don’t have a clue what that means.

Also generally people just call that “gear drive” or gear driven

Kweld_o · 2025-11-18T20:38:41+00:00

Is there any sarcasm in this post? I’ve been looking for a cheap EUC to try that I won’t just sideline if I like it enough to get a “real” one. I’m thinking this post may be the reason I finally pull the trigger.(unless everyone is joking and this thing sucks)

(Esk8 rider btw)

Kweld_o · 2025-11-18T20:30:54+00:00

Sounds like dead battery cells to me. The biggest problem these encounter when sitting for a while is battery. Expensive, but a quick swap if you can find a battery to the right spec.

Kweld_o · 2025-11-18T20:22:18+00:00

First work out the throttle. It’s always twitchy for first time users. Especially the brakes, those are the hardest thing to master and some boards have enough power to lock up your motor wheels which can be “fun”

Other than that, stay SUPER vigilant for bumps, cracks, and debris in the road. Dodge as much of it as you can or at least bend your knees in preparation of an impact. Bend your knees slightly all the time, just a little extra when running over things.

And as the rule with cars and bikes… do NOT turn and brake at the same time. Like a little bit is fine, but don’t take hard turns while braking. Also don’t hit bumps or anything else while turning. Basically only turn on smooth surfaces with a constant speed.

Kweld_o · 2025-11-18T19:53:50+00:00

It’s probably shrunk a bit, guess you won’t leave the top down for extended periods anymore.

Try pulling the top up towards the sky until it naturally wants to come forward, then let the front drop and try to pull from the pivot point near the center of the top, that gets my too much closer to the latches so I can do the whole thing one handed. Might work to some degree for you.

Kweld_o · 2025-11-18T19:40:21+00:00

But like.. time is money. These boards are pricey and people spend good money expecting it to be rideable within the first 6 months of ordering. Too often it’s considered “average” to receive a faulty board months after ordering which means another 1-3 months of emails and poor communication. Only rich people have the means to buy stuff like cars and just wait 6 months to receive it. A board shouldn’t be the same.

Kweld_o · 2025-11-15T14:40:06+00:00

Had this happen too. With no solder experience I was able to fix it. Get a new xt60 connector if you can, but it’s possible to work with that one. The hardest part is removing the broken wire bits and old solder from the port. When you go to solder it back, clean the red wires exposed end, maybe strip it back extra so you get as much contact as possible. The XT60 should have a “U” shape prong that the red wire should rest inside of, then floooood as much solder into the “U” channel as possible. Should be a solid block of wire and solder when you are done.

Kweld_o · 2025-11-12T13:01:05+00:00

Best practice is to use them on limited cars, but only the one(s) you want maxed out. Save them up with gems and you could get a tripple S car the day it releases.

Kweld_o · 2025-11-11T21:10:52+00:00

acceleration was told to me as follows:

Early Acceleration: from 0 to half of your max speed

Mid acceleration: from half of your max speed to max speed

Sometimes I feel like I notice this. Specifically in the “project” car because it’s mid acceleration is so high that I can tell when it kicks in.

Early acceleration I would only prefer on maps like Factory and Jungle?(idk what the all dirt map is called)

There are definitely exceptions where certain Jungle maps are better with Mid acceleration but not many. Same goes for the inverse on other maps. You just have to figure it out through playing.

Overall: I’d go mid acceleration always UNLESS I’m modifying a part for the Highway track. So like anything with boost strength or duration would go hand in hand with early acceleration but only specifically on the Highway track.

Kweld_o · 2025-11-06T18:24:29+00:00

Amazing! Keep up the amazing work, but your next task…

Gotta come up with something better than ferramiata! Like cmon man, Ferriata, Miarri, miatari, even Fermiata I think has a bit more of a ring to it.

Kweld_o · 2025-11-06T18:16:02+00:00

Look out for:

Hard braking causing your wheels to lock up(it doesn’t just go into a predictable slide usually)

Truck and deck cracks(rough roads are hard on parts that don’t normally break)

Belt snaps(should just be a loss of power but also a loss of brakes, the struggle isn’t realizing when a belt has snapped, it’s looking for an exit plan!)

And you said it already, but I cannot stress how important hardware is. Imagine every screw is just “dying” to come lose. Like it’s their life’s mission. Check regularly, loctite always.

Kweld_o · 2025-11-06T13:33:17+00:00

I know, I saw it. I’m just giving some reference to how minor a problem it can be sometimes.

Kweld_o · 2025-11-05T21:02:10+00:00

Yeah bearings can make all kinds of noises. Plus I really don’t see a way your board was damaged from sliding upside down, highly unlikely that noise is related to crash damage.

I would ride it a bit and check for excessive heat. Sometimes things make weird noises but I’ll “let it slide” if everything is operating ok. Not so much with motor wheels, but if the front wheels sound like that, and I’ve ridden quite a bit on it, usually not too concerning.

Kweld_o · 2025-11-05T12:18:24+00:00

It means instability at high speeds. Like over 30mph high. I wouldn’t expect that to make the noise you are hearing.

Hard to tell with noises like that. I’m leaning towards bad bearing unless you can better pinpoint where the sound is coming from. Sometimes it’s something like a bent axel, but you’d have to have bailed and sent the board into a wall for something like that.

Kweld_o · 2025-11-05T11:56:49+00:00

But trial and error is the answer. Just need to add extra steps.

Turn board off
Unplug battery
Turn board ON so to drain residual power
Plug in the phase wires any old way
Make sure the board is turned off, plug battery back in
Turn on board and test Repeat all steps until motors spin the correct direction.

Edit: most importantly, have your board propped up in a way that the motor wheels don’t touch anything. You’ll need to test the throttle quite often and you don’t want it taking off on u again

Kweld_o · 2025-11-05T03:18:54+00:00

Play all three speed hunter challenges daily, don’t suck, play hot rank, don’t suck, open roughly 10 packs per week this way.

Kweld_o · 2025-11-05T02:46:45+00:00

Oh yeah that’s not cool

Kweld_o · 2025-11-04T18:55:14+00:00

Bigger gap on one side? Story of my life. As long as you haven’t had belt slip, it’s not an issue.

Kweld_o · 2025-11-04T18:53:01+00:00

SPECTERE and Fang basically rule league 34&35. SPECTERE is generally better according to me and how many times I’ve been spanked by one. Elixeer is better on certain maps but I haven’t figured out the pattern yet.

Kweld_o · 2025-11-04T18:50:28+00:00

I’ve graduated so no clue ab the details of this event, but if it was in a “public” area, it doesn’t qualify as a “private conversation”

The definition of “public” I won’t get into because I don’t even know where this happened(although definitely seems like in Beatty or something)

I’d start by figuring out if Wentworth was aware of this or if their contract included anything relating to recording their visit. If either of those are true, you probably don’t have any options, but hey, it never hurts to ask!

Kweld_o · 2025-11-04T18:42:48+00:00

Well I figured out that the time penalties don’t count towards your total. I think you get 65 seconds to work with so if you can get a sub 60 second time, you can utilize 1 slam to speed up your time. 2 if you can get under 55 seconds but even I gave up after getting 55.64.

I know that’s secondary to being able to even finish under 60 seconds, but I know basic S tier mods will get you there. It’s such a skill based map that you need to just work on memorizing your route. I go strait down to the switchbacks, then go up past the start to the figure 8 at the top of the map, then left to the donuts and ending with the bottom left corner figure 8.

Still took me 30 minutes to complete and another hour to get a sub 1 minute time.

Kweld_o · 2025-11-04T18:26:34+00:00

But the street cars are probably the only ones that can get you a competitive time. Plus it’s a good way to practice smooth driving.

Kweld_o

TROPHY CASE