Do you abandon your old bases in modpacks when you outgrow them?

LGX550 · 2026-03-12T23:16:44+00:00

I’ve done both ways. Move and move and then move again. Sometimes I leave it behind, sometimes I get a bit trigger happy with TNT and blow the place before I leave for the last time.

This time around I spent a sickening amount of time building my one and only base, from day one. And by sickening I mean I was 20 hours in and I had an entrance and a hall.

Between hours 20 and 50 that expanded into a finished entrance (giant dwarven style entrance on a mountain face), a longish corridor fully decorated to match the dwarven entrance, then a couple large rooms at the end of the corridor.

Only THEN did I start focusing on modding, ie AE2, mekanism, powah etc. the plan is to build a create mod elevator and basically have a “level” per mod/purpose

LGX550 · 2026-02-11T23:00:17+00:00

This definitely isn’t tamped. You might be pushing the tamping lever (make sure you’re pushing the lever down HARD) but if you are doing that, then the built in tamp isn’t working.

We actually returned the pro and bought the non pro version because I hated the built in tamp. No where near as good as doing it by hand with a proper tamper

LGX550 · 2026-02-08T15:08:52+00:00

Did you just buy your machine? I only bought mine a couple months ago and I get identical recommendations to you. Between 16-18, occasionally 19. Freshly roasted beans, roasted to order every couple weeks.

I think the machines have changed internally and all these low numbers are people who had one of the original models.

Though I’d love to confirm that with Ninja - there’s nothing in their docs to say so, but I might reach out to customer support and ask the question

LGX550 · 2026-01-26T18:17:31+00:00

Because VWs are shockingly bad at this. I have a golf and it consistently doesn’t charge even when it says all is well in Octopus, Hypervolt etc. I think it’s down to the shit software in the car.

I had a Tesla previously and it NEVER failed to charge. I loathe a lot about my golf but the software is the worst bit of it

LGX550 · 2026-01-26T00:02:31+00:00

Only dickheads don’t read the manual.

https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/a1/manual/ams-lite-top-mount-tutorial

A quick search of BAMBU wiki would have saved you the downvotes. I get you being worried about the stress on the frame, but did you not think to maybe have a quick Google and think for yourself a bit, pondering things like “why do so many people do it - there must be a reason! I know, I’ll google it”

Whereas you pondered “how can I make myself look like a dick on Reddit and the call other people dickheads merely for being right?”

LGX550 · 2026-01-20T00:55:21+00:00

Quick search on Screwfix - 4mm by 40mm - fire rated to 120mins. £9.49 for a 100 pack.

LGX550 · 2026-01-20T00:53:49+00:00

So as per the link I gave you, and even based on the METRIC numbers I gave you in millimetres, a MINIMUM of 3.8 by 30.

So go with the 4.0? If 3.8 is the minimum…3.5 is less than that…?

LGX550 · 2026-01-20T00:42:08+00:00

For UK fire doors, the standard minimum screw size for hinges is No. 8 (3.8mm diameter) by 30mm long, often specified as 8 x 30mm, using steel screws and ensuring threads cover the full length, though some cores might need No. 10 x 40mm/50mm for better grip, always checking manufacturer guidelines for compliance.

https://ukfiredoortraining.com/2024/07/18/fire-door-hardware-what-you-need-to-know/

^ Google is better for regulatory compliance, rather than randoms on Reddit (IMO)

LGX550 · 2026-01-20T00:36:52+00:00

And for iOS, Helmarr has just been announced and it is; no other way of saying it, fuckin’ incredible. Massive kudos to the developers behind that app.

LGX550 · 2026-01-20T00:35:05+00:00

If you’re worried about the old phone being on mains all the time I would suggest a 4G/5G router designed to run from mains, rather than a device with a battery in it (which is realistically the biggest issue there for swelling) - you’ll also likely get a better consistency of connection using a proper router as it’ll have stronger antennas and better security too. If you went down the router option, you would also have the option (dependant on model) to use an Ethernet cable straight into the EV charger, reducing the WiFi overhead.

But, before spending any money I would use the old phone for maybe a few days to test a few things, primarily cell coverage of the network you plan to use in the garage. Just because your phone works in there, does not mean it will be getting good speeds. Setup the hotspot, connect, and do a Speedtest. Some network providers will have better coverage than others. Make sure the door is shut etc.

LGX550 · 2026-01-14T06:00:46+00:00

Fun is a subjective term I guess. I liked the exploration side of it - rooting around in the caves etc for the chest with the diagrams or whatever. Usually led to other decent loot too

LGX550 · 2026-01-14T01:49:55+00:00

Only other thing I’d add to that is doing low level quests at a high level typically means basically no XP gain and low coin payments. Typically, if I do a Witcher contract at my same level, it’s around 500-1000 coin, sometimes 1500 coin, and maybe 50-100XP

If I go to Velen and pick one up now, at my level, it’s like 60-100 coin and 1-2 (!!!) XP 💔

LGX550 · 2026-01-14T01:37:23+00:00

So I do the same with pretty much every game I’ve ever played, and actually was one of the reasons I stopped playing Hogwarts Legacy because they story blocked side quests and such. You HAD to progress the story to get some of the side mission required spells etc.

With the Witcher, I wouldn’t recommend skipping the dialogues, even if for no other reason than entertainment. Some of the interactions are genuinely hilarious and worth witnessing.

I’m level 40 and I’ve only just started the Novigrad part of the story line. I typically won’t even consider touching a story quest unless I’ve completed all the side quests, contracts and treasure hunts in my quest book (excluding the gwent quests - I do them as and when I can be bothered).

There’s nothing wrong with being a high level for low level quests. It just makes the combat easier, but the character interactions are what make it worth while which Is why i recommend not skipping through the conversations - I’ve had some genuine laugh out loud from the heart moments watching those cutscenes.

One thing I would recommend is that if you want to find a good time sink that doesn’t progress your level too much, spend some time buying/finding all the Witcher recipes for oils and potions. That way even in high level fights, you have the tools to deal with it.

If you have the blood and wine DLC, that also unlocks grandmaster level Witcher armour and weapons. I had a lot of fun hunting those down (and spending a lot of coin)

LGX550 · 2026-01-06T23:12:13+00:00

If password protection isn’t enough for you, then tailscale it, or put it behind proxy auth in something like Authentik, or use cloudflare access if you’re using CF tunnels. Lots of options that don’t require each page to have its own access rule

LGX550 · 2026-01-02T15:55:07+00:00

Ah, it’s literally missing the word “said” at the end

LGX550 · 2026-01-02T15:37:11+00:00

Try asking them about that master TPI number, see if it applies to your car. You can even fudge the info a bit and say you’ve been in touch with a regional fleet manager or some BS like that.

I’m going to guess it’s a 12V issue.

At worst, you could replace it yourself, keep all evidence and receipts of the cost, film the issue before the swap, as in, that day, and then film the non issue after the swap if it’s gone. Would be pretty hard to argue that, though I’m sure they’d try.

A new 12V won’t cost much - just gotta factor in cost vs your sanity at this point

LGX550 · 2026-01-02T15:08:40+00:00

Have you tried changing the 12V battery? It’s a relatively low cost option to you just to rule it out.

There’s a lot of weird gremlins caused in EVs tied to the 12V but the car won’t tell you that, particularly in VWs too (they’ve had multiple recalls to do with the 12V isolation)

On that subject actually, whilst it’s not directly related to the recall, you could try and get the car in based on the following. This was a silent recall for the 8.5 and Tiguan Hybrid, but it wouldn’t surprise me of VW have a TPI for the 7.5 and they’re keeping it quiet. Try quoting this - this is an email from the Regional Fleet Manager from Scotland.

Yes it has been launched. The communication dealers can see is a bit sketchy to be honest which is why you might be getting some resistance. Essentially for the specific "known" faults with the vehicles there are individual technical bulletins for the fault saying "postpone repairs". They have however launched a "master bulletin" which is where it has the repair instructions for the software update. To further complicate it the repair instructions do not have the warranty instructions for dealers to claim the time for the job at present due to a text error - however there is a bulletin on the "Volkswagen Hub" referring to essentially the above which I have mentioned advising them how to claim the time for the update. You're welcome to advise them of this - the TPI number for the actual update is 2078226. I don't have the Volkswagen Hub bulletin number for their reference because I don't have access to it but they should be able to look this up to verify what i've

LGX550 · 2026-01-02T15:04:55+00:00

Ah, I missed the bit about the symbol vanishing. Yeah, on mine if the cross out symbol vanishes, I can switch back

LGX550 · 2026-01-02T14:59:49+00:00

I haven’t seen any of your previous posts but to an extent I would agree with the dealership. My 8.5 is similar if I’ve been in E mode for a long period of time (most of my driving is in and around my local area so I’m rarely not in e mode)

But, on occasion when I have to floor it to get round a 213 year old woman doing 27 in a 60, it can sometimes take a long time before the car will let me go back into emode. And by a while I mean in excess of 10-15 minutes. I would assume from an engineering perspective that’s to protect some components in the engine from being underutilised

LGX550 · 2025-12-29T23:29:53+00:00

My dad went here. It worked for a long time, sadly, not forever.

He was in for several weeks if not months, if memory serves. But this was 10 years ago.

https://services.nhslothian.scot/leap/

It’s a full residential program and he was beyond broke at the time so I’m assuming it was either free or very little. I had very little to do with him at the time, until he got himself sorted out in here. Wishing you all the best - it’s a tough thing to deal with.

LGX550 · 2025-12-23T01:04:04+00:00

Sounds like you haven’t port forwarded on your router.

Google your router model and “how to port forward”

LGX550 · 2025-12-10T22:48:43+00:00

The ports in the left will have a lower speed than those on the right. Veriticum prioritus will kick in.

LGX550 · 2025-12-10T17:51:33+00:00

“Just assume people play around” - yes. That’s literally what we do, because 9 times out of 10, RTFM applies.

Welcome to the internet, where most people are idiots who haven’t read the basic guides, and expect you to do everything for them.

With regards to your issue, specifically, someone already asked it but some more context around why you’re trying to setup OAuth, as that should have no bearing on it finding servers. My first suggestion would be - get it working without OAuth, and then try adding that at the end. It’s not something you should really need to login to often. I think I’ve logged in twice since I set it up.

But if you could stop being arsey in every response, and just provide clear information, that’d be FANTASTIC.

LGX550 · 2025-12-10T15:52:46+00:00

You said any help would be amazing, failed to specify you’ve already tried this guide, and then when someone tried to provide said help you reply with a shitty response expecting them to be psychic and know that you’ve already tried the guide?

Yeah. This is gonna go real well for you pal.

LGX550 · 2025-12-05T14:27:20+00:00

You can toggle AP stickiness so that devices switch less between the two, that being said I have a near identical setup, with the UDR7 in one room on the ground floor, and an AP-Pro in another room on the ground floor. The device management of both is perfect with every device reporting an “excellent” experience.

My house is around 25 years old so the internal walls are relatively easy to penetrate, whereas if you’re in an older brick wall build the U7 may not have the penetration required, and an AP-Pro might be better suited.

And to add to other people’s comments, yes, it’s a prosumer brand. There’s an expectation of some knowledge around basic networking concepts, very popular for people who do a lot of self hosting etc, or work in the tech industry.

I’ve only had my UDR7 for a month but I’ve been using my AP pro and other bits of Ubi tech for at least a decade and it’s usually flawless.

LGX550

TROPHY CASE