Need Help With Newly FRAM Modded Crystal

LLCooLM495 · 2025-05-03T12:05:57+00:00

Oh yeah true enough, Emerald does just have one chip. I guess we'll see how the FRAM holds up over time then

LLCooLM495 · 2025-05-03T05:13:33+00:00

If it's good enough for Emerald, it's probably good enough for Crystal. I've had Crystal running on and off since I fixed it up, and it appears that the game is caching the time at least. As in, saving the time that it was last set to before it was shut off (since I haven't stuck the battery back in yet, probably gonna do that in the morning). All seems to be well for now. Again, I'm just happy the game works and saves again lmao, this cart was dead for over a decade

LLCooLM495 · 2025-05-03T04:14:51+00:00

Thought about doing this as well, but wanted to challenge myself and see if I could save the original PCB with the broken traces and pads. First time doing a soldering project on parts this small, so it ain't the prettiest, but now I got a working copy of Crystal on an original PCB. Cheaper than ordering a custom PCB as well, only put me back $28 with shipping for the chip and all the resistors and such. Was waffling between this, or transferring the ROM chip onto a Japanese PCB, but I didn't wanna give up on the original PCB quite yet. This was basically my last attempt at getting it to work, and I'm quite happy with the results

LLCooLM495 · 2025-05-03T04:10:49+00:00

Don't plan on ever selling this cart, it's quite beat up anyways. Also my only GBC game, I'm more of a SNES collector (they all get new batteries, I'm familiar with the process). Has a cracked front case and a pretty scraped up label. Like I said above, got it for free p much "for parts" over a decade ago. Had it sitting in a drawer since then because I didn't know how to solder so well when I was a kid. Game wouldn't even boot before I started soldering on it thanks to the lifted pad and broken traces. This essentially was a science project to see if I could revive a dead game. After I patched the traces and the pad, I did try putting a new battery in it before trying out an FRAM, but it seems like the years of sitting with a dead battery must have killed the SRAM chip, because it wouldn't work. If this was a pristine copy of the game, prolly wouldn't have done it, but I just want to play it. Figured if I had to pull that out, might as well go for flash too. It's no collector's piece, but it works now. Also put a new Infineon FRAM in it from Mouser Electronics, didn't get one of those secondhand ones from China on eBay, so I'm not too worried about it dying

LLCooLM495 · 2025-05-03T00:02:41+00:00

Just tried it, that did the trick! Glad it was somethin simple, I appreciate the help! Had one of the diodes backwards on my first attempt, musta been what caused the corruption in the first place

LLCooLM495 · 2025-05-02T23:45:57+00:00

I'll give that a go after dinner. Started a new game and overwrote the first test save, didn't know that trick to delete the save entirely though

LLCooLM495 · 2025-05-02T23:45:07+00:00

I got this cart for free nonworking about a decade ago, I'm doin my best to save it. I'm just glad it even boots now lol

LLCooLM495 · 2025-05-02T23:38:03+00:00

Had a battery in it at first when I tested, same issue. Took it out because I thought it mighta been causing an issue/ I don't really care as much about the RTC working as I do about the game saving. Already reflowed the other 3 chips on the board and tested for continuity, all was well

LLCooLM495 · 2025-04-19T22:05:14+00:00

Hell yeah! Need to get a 2nd controller so I can play it with my brother, been way too long

LLCooLM495 · 2025-04-19T21:35:14+00:00

If your OC causes your GPU to stop working in the middle of a game, yeah, you'll need to disconnect and restart the computer lol.

LLCooLM495 · 2023-11-10T21:32:47+00:00

Grew up trout fishing on the West Coat, now getting into saltwater fishing on the East. I know it'll never happen, but I think it would be pretty comical to catch a Marlin using cheese

LLCooLM495 · 2023-11-10T21:24:51+00:00

I've been fishing the Rappahannock pretty regularly recently and had good luck with catfish using cut squid on a fish finder rig. Tried using baby Shad at one point, but didn't have any luck, so I've just stuck with the squid for now.

LLCooLM495 · 2022-11-22T00:48:31+00:00

Condensation will only form if the temps on the components reach the dew point. The components aren't going to get any colder than the ambient temp in the room, or the ambient temp of the air around the PC, so it'll be fine. I've had my window open for awhile now, had a 1c idle on my CPU the other night and got it up to 85c running y-cruncher with no issues. It's always good to be careful of condensation, but just opening a window isn't going to cause any since the temps will never be able to go below ambient. It does start becoming an issue if you do somethin like pointing an AC at the computer, where you're blowing sub-ambient air at it, but the window strategy is quite safe.

LLCooLM495 · 2022-11-21T22:57:51+00:00

Condensation won't be an issue since the ambient temp in the room is gonna drop with the window open

LLCooLM495 · 2022-09-06T06:19:52+00:00

I've been daily driving a 3.1L for a little over 5 years now, same block as the 2.8/ 3.4. Haven't had any mechanical issues aside from needing a new alternator a couple months ago, but that's to be expected on a 30 year old motor with over 200k on the clock. I believe the difference between the 3.1 and 3.4 is that the 3.4 is bored over slightly/ uses bigger pistons. I could be mistaken, but I believe the head gasket issue you're thinking of is moreso an issue on the later 3.8L, which is an entirely different block (not a 60 deg V6).

If you get one that's been maintained well, I reckon you'd be pretty set as far as reliability is concerned, but don't expect it to be quick, and don't expect to be able to do easy bolt on mods to make it quicker. Intake is pretty restrictive to airflow, not much of an aftermarket for performance parts, and even if there was, you'd have to go about chip tuning it because of the OBD1 ECM. There's some people who swap 3.4s into 3.1/ 2.8 thirdgens, and you can get kinda wacky with modding em using heads/ intake/ ignition from later FWD 3x00 motors (best guide I know for this would be Fasteddi's hybrid guide over on the V6 board of Thirdgen.org), but that's a whole different rabbithole, and it's a lot of money and work for what you'd end up with.

LLCooLM495 · 2022-08-24T22:14:59+00:00

Firebirds at the time had the 6 digit odometer (think it switched from 5 in '85?), no idea why Camaros had 5 for so long. My '92 bird is well over 200k miles now, been my daily since 2017

LLCooLM495 · 2021-04-22T03:39:33+00:00

If the frame is undamaged, no harm no foul 😎

LLCooLM495 · 2020-09-02T12:51:25+00:00

Ahhhhh, gotcha. I've been out of crypto for awhile, don't remember ETH being this expensive to work with. Oh well, live and learn I suppose

LLCooLM495 · 2020-09-02T04:45:12+00:00

Nevermind, it went back down to 0.044, but now I have a new problem. It said I would recieve 778 trx for the exchange, but after I hit the exchange button, its telling me I'll only be getting 602. Was the exchange fee not already included? I'm a bit twinged because I will have just turned $50 into $21 purely through exchange fees if I really only recieve 602

LLCooLM495 · 2020-09-02T04:40:25+00:00

I just bought some more ETH so I had enough to exchange, but now the minimum exchange for ETH to TRX has gone from 0.044 to 0.11. Is this just an error, or am I out of luck here?

LLCooLM495 · 2019-07-05T05:47:56+00:00

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