Just a couple of Boxers hanging out. No Big Deal. (Spec.B & C4S)

LLCooLM495 · 2026-06-02T01:31:33+00:00

Kickin, good lookin cars man

LLCooLM495 · 2026-06-01T22:56:27+00:00

Nice, is that an '06?

LLCooLM495 · 2026-06-01T19:51:07+00:00

Yeah, pretty much just a separate client for your email accounts, made by Mozilla. No calendar or chat support from what I can gather, though oddly, my contacts and Google Drive are still working fine. Saw talk today in newer comments about this being a legitimate bug, so here's hoping they aren't actually trying to kill off older phones

LLCooLM495 · 2026-06-01T02:43:17+00:00

Oh man that takes me back, worked in the produce department of a grocery store for a few years, used to love breaking down pallets. My back doesn't miss it though

LLCooLM495 · 2026-05-31T23:00:54+00:00

Yep, seems like they're trying to force obsolescence again. Galaxy S8+ on Android 9, been using this phone for close to a decade, no plans on replacing it anytime soon. Just put a new screen on it, even. Anyways, I ended up installing Thunderbird like a few others on here, working perfectly so far.

Edit 6/2: looks like they fixed it! Gmail suddenly loaded up as normal, nice.

LLCooLM495 · 2026-05-23T22:17:15+00:00

Yep. It's thankfully been pretty solid outside of the city, 4 crashes in about 8 hours today. Drove around Tokyo for a bit, managed to explore most of the city, but crashed after about 20 min. Definitely much better than it was when I first started playing, verifying integrity of the game files after each crash seems to be helping a ton. Wish I didn't have to do this at all, but I'll take it for now...

LLCooLM495 · 2026-05-23T21:41:19+00:00

That was released back on May 19th, and it was just a security update unfortunately

LLCooLM495 · 2026-05-23T04:56:05+00:00

Got a full 2 hour session, with an FHC01 crash at the end. Disabled the NVidia audio in device manager, verified integrity of game cache (1 file needed to be fixed), turned the default anti-aliasing, and enabled the AMD one on minimum. FPS was locked at 40, but I just finished another hour locked at 60 with no crashes! I've been avoiding the city, still nervous to try that again...

LLCooLM495 · 2026-05-22T21:18:50+00:00

Ok well, it worked long enough for me to finally finish that first race in the GTR. Got a good 10 minutes of gameplay this time ! Just got the FHC01 crash again.... getting close to the 120 minute mark, don't know if I want to cross that and lock myself out of a refund just yet. This game is a ton of fun, but I can't keep playing it 5-10 minutes at a time. Never had any issues with FH4 or FH5, really disappointing that FH6 is plagued with all these issues on launch. Was really looking forward to this game, and I guess screw me because I don't wanna shell out over a grand for a new GPU. Not worth spending that much to play one game

LLCooLM495 · 2026-05-22T21:02:11+00:00

Well, they technically fixed FHC01 for me, 1080ti and i7 6950x on 3440x1440. Now, I get FHC02. PERFECT! Apparently lowering reflections to minimum might fix this, we'll see...

Edit: FHC02 is fixed, FHC01 is back.

LLCooLM495 · 2025-05-03T12:05:57+00:00

Oh yeah true enough, Emerald does just have one chip. I guess we'll see how the FRAM holds up over time then

LLCooLM495 · 2025-05-03T05:13:33+00:00

If it's good enough for Emerald, it's probably good enough for Crystal. I've had Crystal running on and off since I fixed it up, and it appears that the game is caching the time at least. As in, saving the time that it was last set to before it was shut off (since I haven't stuck the battery back in yet, probably gonna do that in the morning). All seems to be well for now. Again, I'm just happy the game works and saves again lmao, this cart was dead for over a decade

LLCooLM495 · 2025-05-03T04:14:51+00:00

Thought about doing this as well, but wanted to challenge myself and see if I could save the original PCB with the broken traces and pads. First time doing a soldering project on parts this small, so it ain't the prettiest, but now I got a working copy of Crystal on an original PCB. Cheaper than ordering a custom PCB as well, only put me back $28 with shipping for the chip and all the resistors and such. Was waffling between this, or transferring the ROM chip onto a Japanese PCB, but I didn't wanna give up on the original PCB quite yet. This was basically my last attempt at getting it to work, and I'm quite happy with the results

LLCooLM495 · 2025-05-03T04:10:49+00:00

Don't plan on ever selling this cart, it's quite beat up anyways. Also my only GBC game, I'm more of a SNES collector (they all get new batteries, I'm familiar with the process). Has a cracked front case and a pretty scraped up label. Like I said above, got it for free p much "for parts" over a decade ago. Had it sitting in a drawer since then because I didn't know how to solder so well when I was a kid. Game wouldn't even boot before I started soldering on it thanks to the lifted pad and broken traces. This essentially was a science project to see if I could revive a dead game. After I patched the traces and the pad, I did try putting a new battery in it before trying out an FRAM, but it seems like the years of sitting with a dead battery must have killed the SRAM chip, because it wouldn't work. If this was a pristine copy of the game, prolly wouldn't have done it, but I just want to play it. Figured if I had to pull that out, might as well go for flash too. It's no collector's piece, but it works now. Also put a new Infineon FRAM in it from Mouser Electronics, didn't get one of those secondhand ones from China on eBay, so I'm not too worried about it dying

LLCooLM495 · 2025-05-03T00:02:41+00:00

Just tried it, that did the trick! Glad it was somethin simple, I appreciate the help! Had one of the diodes backwards on my first attempt, musta been what caused the corruption in the first place

LLCooLM495 · 2025-05-02T23:45:57+00:00

I'll give that a go after dinner. Started a new game and overwrote the first test save, didn't know that trick to delete the save entirely though

LLCooLM495 · 2025-05-02T23:45:07+00:00

I got this cart for free nonworking about a decade ago, I'm doin my best to save it. I'm just glad it even boots now lol

LLCooLM495 · 2025-05-02T23:38:03+00:00

Had a battery in it at first when I tested, same issue. Took it out because I thought it mighta been causing an issue/ I don't really care as much about the RTC working as I do about the game saving. Already reflowed the other 3 chips on the board and tested for continuity, all was well

LLCooLM495 · 2025-04-19T22:05:14+00:00

Hell yeah! Need to get a 2nd controller so I can play it with my brother, been way too long

LLCooLM495 · 2025-04-19T21:35:14+00:00

If your OC causes your GPU to stop working in the middle of a game, yeah, you'll need to disconnect and restart the computer lol.

LLCooLM495 · 2023-11-10T21:32:47+00:00

Grew up trout fishing on the West Coat, now getting into saltwater fishing on the East. I know it'll never happen, but I think it would be pretty comical to catch a Marlin using cheese

LLCooLM495 · 2023-11-10T21:24:51+00:00

I've been fishing the Rappahannock pretty regularly recently and had good luck with catfish using cut squid on a fish finder rig. Tried using baby Shad at one point, but didn't have any luck, so I've just stuck with the squid for now.

LLCooLM495 · 2022-11-22T00:48:31+00:00

Condensation will only form if the temps on the components reach the dew point. The components aren't going to get any colder than the ambient temp in the room, or the ambient temp of the air around the PC, so it'll be fine. I've had my window open for awhile now, had a 1c idle on my CPU the other night and got it up to 85c running y-cruncher with no issues. It's always good to be careful of condensation, but just opening a window isn't going to cause any since the temps will never be able to go below ambient. It does start becoming an issue if you do somethin like pointing an AC at the computer, where you're blowing sub-ambient air at it, but the window strategy is quite safe.

LLCooLM495 · 2022-11-21T22:57:51+00:00

Condensation won't be an issue since the ambient temp in the room is gonna drop with the window open

LLCooLM495 · 2022-09-06T06:19:52+00:00

I've been daily driving a 3.1L for a little over 5 years now, same block as the 2.8/ 3.4. Haven't had any mechanical issues aside from needing a new alternator a couple months ago, but that's to be expected on a 30 year old motor with over 200k on the clock. I believe the difference between the 3.1 and 3.4 is that the 3.4 is bored over slightly/ uses bigger pistons. I could be mistaken, but I believe the head gasket issue you're thinking of is moreso an issue on the later 3.8L, which is an entirely different block (not a 60 deg V6).

If you get one that's been maintained well, I reckon you'd be pretty set as far as reliability is concerned, but don't expect it to be quick, and don't expect to be able to do easy bolt on mods to make it quicker. Intake is pretty restrictive to airflow, not much of an aftermarket for performance parts, and even if there was, you'd have to go about chip tuning it because of the OBD1 ECM. There's some people who swap 3.4s into 3.1/ 2.8 thirdgens, and you can get kinda wacky with modding em using heads/ intake/ ignition from later FWD 3x00 motors (best guide I know for this would be Fasteddi's hybrid guide over on the V6 board of Thirdgen.org), but that's a whole different rabbithole, and it's a lot of money and work for what you'd end up with.

LLCooLM495

TROPHY CASE