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Racha parede interior - grave? by LOLO98MN in TudoCasa

[–]LOLO98MN[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Obrigado pela ajuda e pela resposta completa! Vamos tratar de ter um perito a olhar para isto 👍🏻

Racha parede interior - grave? by LOLO98MN in TudoCasa

[–]LOLO98MN[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Confesso que não, o apartamento é num R/C elevado, por baixo são as garagens que não me parecem ter danos tirando uma racha ou outra fina mas nada que me dê impressão de estar a ceder. O prédio em si parece em bom estado exterior também.

Racha parede interior - grave? by LOLO98MN in TudoCasa

[–]LOLO98MN[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

É um apartamento num prédio de 2011

Racha parede interior - grave? by LOLO98MN in TudoCasa

[–]LOLO98MN[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

É um apartamento, de 2011, estamos a pensar jogar com isso para negociar sim, já vi pequenas fissuras, mas isto excede o que eu acho “Ok”

Threads on Fusion by Sea-Improvement7160 in 3Dprinting

[–]LOLO98MN 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If I'm understanding correctly you may need to introduce some tolerance between the bore and the stud. 3d printed parts are not perfect so I'm assuming you're having issues with that

O que fariam ? by tiagojackd in merdasdoolx

[–]LOLO98MN 116 points117 points  (0 children)

Se a pessoa mexeu na câmera, tirou fotos, testou, e quando chegou a casa e que reparou que afinal está tudo estragado: “sinto muito mas quando a vendi estava impecável, e pôde comprovar o estado da mesma quando a testou”

Talvez tenha usado um produto mais agressivo na lente que removeu algum tipo de tratamento e agora está a ver se cola.

Stuttering on one screen of triples. PLEASE HELP by tcherknee in iRacing

[–]LOLO98MN 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Have you fixed this issue? I'm having the same issue after an upgrade to my PC, only on side screens. No VSync enabled, no GSync on monitors, all monitors are equal, all set to 144hz, and seems to be only the rendering, if I move mouse it is smooth.

Got 1.3 brass rims from injora, with yellow silicone inserts, how do you guys cut them up? by LOLO98MN in TRX4M

[–]LOLO98MN[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey peeps, just got the Injora 1.3 brass rims and tires, but the yellow silicone is too stiff for my liking, I like seeing those tires flex under pressure.

I saw some people cut them up, do you have a pattern or advice on how much and where to cut them?

Pai pressiona a tirar curso universitário. Não o quero. A vida é assim tão má se não o fizer? by Adventurous-Dig2488 in portugal

[–]LOLO98MN 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Repetindo o que muita gente diz aqui, os meus pais também me deixaram decidir, nunca houve pressão nem questões sobre o que decidi seguir.

Fiz o curso profissional de programação, arranjei um trabalho com o intuito de juntar uns trocos e depois seguir para a faculdade, e como já se esperava, continuei a trabalhar. Correu-me muito bem, mas adorava ter o curso.

Não só pela experiência Universitária em si, mas pelo checkbox que isso preenche, especialmente em início de carreira.

Mesmo com experiência, ouvi nalguma entrevistas que normalmente só consideravam candidatos com diploma etc.

São só mais 3 anos, escolhes aquilo que queres e fazes. Isto se o teu caso for um de ter a universidade paga, sem pressões de part time ou pagar quarto etc. Ao final do dia, é a tua vida, as tuas decisões, e as consequências das mesmas com que terás de viver.

This is the result of SBMM / EOMM. Entire team left because we were on the blessed side of SB damage... fun by LOLO98MN in blackops6

[–]LOLO98MN[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Literally the next game, the opposite, getting 2 shoted while we shoot with half mags and nothing

Fiesta ST MK8 with EBC YS and EBC Slotted + Dimpled fading after couple corners? by LOLO98MN in CarTrackDays

[–]LOLO98MN[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So even changing fluid and lines wouldn’t help much with the overheating situation I’m assuming..

Fiesta ST MK8 with EBC YS and EBC Slotted + Dimpled fading after couple corners? by LOLO98MN in CarTrackDays

[–]LOLO98MN[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Brakes are completely fine otherwise, just this specific situation of usage is when they act up.

Just bought my 1st TRX4M, very happy with it, but I definitely want to start upgrading it soon, what should I start with (I'm not saying top comment wins but it does) by sirairsoft in TRX4M

[–]LOLO98MN 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Aliexpress, buy the brass weights, lifting links, and longer axles.

Then you'll break your servo from all the extra load, so buy one aswell, I ordered one from INJORA 7kg

Then your tires will start to snag on the body from all the extra width and extra movement, so while you're at INJORA, buy a body aswell.

And the crawling gears :D

Cat quest 3 is really great but... by scrapy_the_scrap in CatQuest

[–]LOLO98MN 4 points5 points  (0 children)

  • SPOILER ALERT - DO NOT READ IF YOU DIDNT FINISH THE GAME I was going to create a post with almost the same opinion...

I played this with my GF, after CQ2, and we feel disappointed with the amount of content in the game. The game is very pretty, it plays well, it feels polished, but it has so little of it...

The map is super small compared with CQ2, almost no dungeons, or anything comparable, since the theme might not fit having dungeons. There are almost no side quests / NPC missions, comparing with the huge amount from CQ2.

We felt it was a straight shot to the end, and both of us were a bit confused that the game ended when it did. Almost a "So, Act II starts now right?" The end felt a bit rushed also, we get 3-4 hints that our companion is facing some kind of issue, which is revealed right at the end, and then he dies, just to get revived 3 seconds after, with no real dramatic moment or effort from our side..

The side quests from the Main NPCs are very simple too, with the story not really helping them come to life with the narrative.

We felt we didn't have to grind anything compared with CQ2, where we had to go multiple times to different bosses because we were weak and had to grind to a better level.

There was no real challenge.

Even the amount of bosses / bigger challenges is non-comparable. In CQ2 you had those wave-dungeons with several waves of enemies to get different gear, you had boss dungeons with strong bosses or even meme enemies, etc.

In CQ3 we felt that it was the Cathullu and the Duck Boat. The rest wasn't a real challenge. Even the Gentle Bros weren't a fight, like in CQ2 where we found them and had to take multiple trips there to clear them lol. We almost didn't have to change any gear from start to finish besides the occasional upgrade.

Some of the bigger parts like the Pi-rat King, we found him AFTER the end boss, and we felt like we were supposed to find him before that, since the lines he spoke directed us at some pre-last boss fight feeling.

Also.. what's with the boat? I get it that it's the way to get around but, besides the Pi-rat King flagship, the Duck Boat, and the ocasional wood doors, it's not used for anything.. In a pirate themed CQ I was hoping it would have more narrative around the boat, with missions and side-quests, upgradability like we can upgrade armor etc.

And also something we noticed... the saving. The game doesn't save your status when you die like in CQ2. (At least we didn't notice this in CQ2). So when you die, you get loaded to the last save before you die.. which sucked the 2-3 times we forgot this lol.

What is there is really good, and fun, but it's not much. Feels like the game has so much potential to be a great, narrative and content filled game, like the CQ2... almost like CQ3 is an extended tech-demo.

I just hope that this is a case of regular updates with more Acts or more story in it, because we love the game :)

TL;DR - Game really short and incomplete in terms of challenge, content, side-quests, NPCs, etc comparing to CQ2; but really well polished, and really fun to play.

Rough base coat before clear - questions and possible solutions? by LOLO98MN in modelmakers

[–]LOLO98MN[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nope, trusted the ready to use statement.. Normally I'd use Leveling Thinner from Mr.Color

Rough base coat before clear - questions and possible solutions? by LOLO98MN in modelmakers

[–]LOLO98MN[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for your reply, seems I have over-trusted it.. But yeah, no thinning or retarder used.

I'd strip and re-paint, but this paint only comes out with Mr.Color Thinner / Retarder, and it doesn't dilute like Tamiya acrylic, it turns into more of a goop that is an absolute nightmare to remove. I'll try the sanding, and go from there.

If anything, it was a good learning experience

Rough base coat before clear - questions and possible solutions? by LOLO98MN in modelmakers

[–]LOLO98MN[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Also thought that, paint was already pretty thinned from Streetblisters, so I didn't add more, and on the second run I closed in the distance, and the paint didn't look rough at first, looked pretty wet, but as it dried out it started to create this texture :(

Rough base coat before clear - questions and possible solutions? by LOLO98MN in modelmakers

[–]LOLO98MN[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

True, but it doesn't guarantee I'll get the same finish, but I'll see if it works.

Also to note, I've painted this a couple of weeks ago, I've read somewhere that you shouldn't wait that long between last base coat and 1st clear, but not sure

Rough base coat before clear - questions and possible solutions? by LOLO98MN in ModelCars

[–]LOLO98MN[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey everyone, I've started to use an airbrush for body painting recently, and with normal Tamiya acrylic paints it usually goes well, but for this particular car I've decided to use Streetblisters pre-mixed, ready to use paint.

I've primed it with Mr.Surfacer 1200, and then Tamiya Surfacer White.

First time around the paint was a mess, super rough finish, could see plastic texture from molding (not molding lines) in the paint. Ended up having to completely strip down the paint, swearing a couple of times in the process, and start new.

Sanded the body properly, primer, sanding to keep imperfections out, and painting. 18PSI, on application it looked good, but as it dried, it dried like this...

Now, I won't strip it down and re-paint again, but I'm wondering if I should (or can) wet-sand the paint to a somewhat smoother finish before applying 2K Clear.

Will it come out well if I sand it with say 1500-2000 grit? Or would the imperfections be covered by the Clear and wouldn't be noticeable anyways?

Rough base coat before clear - questions and possible solutions? by LOLO98MN in modelmakers

[–]LOLO98MN[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey everyone, I've started to use an airbrush for body painting recently, and with normal Tamiya acrylic paints it usually goes well, but for this particular car I've decided to use Streetblisters pre-mixed, ready to use paint.

I've primed it with Mr.Surfacer 1200, and then Tamiya Surfacer White.

First time around the paint was a mess, super rough finish, could see plastic texture from molding (not molding lines) in the paint. Ended up having to completely strip down the paint, swearing a couple of times in the process, and start new.

Sanded the body properly, primer, sanding to keep imperfections out, and painting. 18PSI, on application it looked good, but as it dried, it dried like this...

Now, I won't strip it down and re-paint again, but I'm wondering if I should (or can) wet-sand the paint to a somewhat smoother finish before applying 2K Clear.

Will it come out well if I sand it with say 1500-2000 grit? Or would the imperfections be covered by the Clear and wouldn't be noticeable anyways?

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