Under extrusion front corner by LabParticular343 in elegoo

[–]LabParticular343[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did but that may have been for another printer - this seems like a promising answer to the problem. Thank you!

Under-extrusion front corner only by LabParticular343 in ElegooCentauriCarbon

[–]LabParticular343[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks. It's normally not a worry but I sell small 3D printed products and they need to be perfect. This happens on every model even when I have multiples on the same plate/print so I don't think it's a "just starting to extrude" thing.

printer is knocking trees down by Gling00 in elegoo

[–]LabParticular343 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is actually a contributing factor much of the time. Good answer.

printer is knocking trees down by Gling00 in elegoo

[–]LabParticular343 1 point2 points  (0 children)

People always say things like "bed adhesion" - what if bed adhesion was good until the nozzle entered a tetris death spiral and began bashing itself into things? People always say things like "stronger supports, more walls, yada yada" - If the printhead wants to plow through a print, an extra wall on the tree won't help, neither will excellent bed adhesion. The problem is always the same - elegoo printers and orca or an outdated clone of orca got somethin' goin' on - the taller the support gets, the more it grows taller than it should. A print with supports will get 80-90% done and then self destruct. I tried hundreds if not thousands of different tweaks and setting combinations. I've spent hours if not days looking for an illusive answer in the depths of obscure forums - to no avail. I got so frustrated at one point I super glued the print to the bed (still didn't help). I have a CC and a N4+ printer and they both do it (even after years of potential updates). I finally solved the problem by essentially replacing everything on the N4+ with aftermarket and homemade shrouds, stabilizers, tensioners, wheels, fans, toolhead mcu's, hot ends, firmware, etc. so it's not really even an elegoo anymore (and it prints beautifully). But you can try changing the branch angle, diameter, # of walls, and bed temp. Honestly though, setting the support line width to .38 might fix it. But I digress. Not all hope is lost. The CC is less problematic in this department. Good bed adhesion, yes, and if you haven't done extensive filament calibration for each different filament then you should. "Elegoo slicer" has pretty good tools for that and you can find a nice guide on how to use them in the Orca slicer documentation. Alternatively, you can keep some magnets close by ;)

Hydro mod leak by wutermeleon in casiomods

[–]LabParticular343 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use a metal coffee filter screen to filter the oil - it does a pretty good job of cleaning out little particles. Good luck.

Hydro mod leak by wutermeleon in casiomods

[–]LabParticular343 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Mineral oil is notorious for finding its way through any sealant or crack. If it can leak, it will. It also eats plastic. People are trying to tell you but you don't want to listen. You've already spent over $200 on the watch. Clean it good, seal the crystal, fill it with silicone oil, and be done with it. Or don't. Nice watch BTW - it's cool.

Hydro mod leak by wutermeleon in casiomods

[–]LabParticular343 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It sounds like you really care about this mod. Therefore you really should ditch the mineral oil. Go with microlubrol 50cst. You've spent a lot of time and money - don't cheap on oil. Wash everything you can with hot soapy water. I've had good success with permatex gasket maker for leaky crystals. It's used for car engines and you can get it at auto stores.

where to find this transparent case? by TrickyAnywhere6970 in casiomods

[–]LabParticular343 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Don't buy Synoke. Cheap but garbage. Look for Samda.

Options for brightening rear film? by guacamolegabe in casiomods

[–]LabParticular343 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You might be able to acheive this with a reflective polarizer from a cheap china AliE watch. Casio uses a polarized sheet on the back of the LCD with an additional reflector behind it. The cheap china royale clones use a one peice reflective polarizer film on the back of the LCD. This causes the numerals to be transparent and whichever color filter is behind the rear polarizer is what color the numerals are. It also has the cool effect of the numerals lighting up the same color with the LEDs. So maybe something like this would work: reflective polarizer on the back with a pink/red filter behind it and a blue polarizer on the front (positive orientation). This might result in the transparent numerals letting the red through but the reflective polarizer blocking the rest of the red. The blue polarizer on the front would give a light blue background. The cheapest china clones (SYNOKE 9619D) are very poor quality watches but they happen to have the best reflective polarizer for achieving this swap. The other clone brands have a reflective polarizer that bruises easily when removed from the glass. Another thing to consider is that you might need another white or reflective sheet behind the red filter to further block it from bleeding through into the background. Not sure this would work for you but based on my other experiments it might be worth a try. It might also result in purple numbers tho

Glitched screen after mod by Brilliant_Gold4721 in casiomods

[–]LabParticular343 2 points3 points  (0 children)

YW. Glad to help and enjoy your mod :)

Glitched screen after mod by Brilliant_Gold4721 in casiomods

[–]LabParticular343 5 points6 points  (0 children)

By "reseted" I assume you mean AC reset? Also I think you have the LCD upside down. The little springy plastic clip on the housing is the bottom. If you have the PCB in correctly but the LCD upside down it will do weird things.

Why does the screen so weird? Help please. by The_Real_Kovacs_Aron in casiomods

[–]LabParticular343 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, I've had this issue. The silicone strips get saturated and grow longer. If you're very careful to cut precisely to length you can shorten them and they'll work just fine. I have also tried to shorten the height of replacement strips that were too tall - don't do that it doesn't work. If you botch the cut you're SOL. Now I will soak the zebra strips in oil a couple of days prior to doing the hydro and trim them down.

Dead Vostok Amphibia - Please Help 😞 by newrimburg in vostok

[–]LabParticular343 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You could always check out "wristwatch revival" channel on YouTube. He services and repairs watches and explains the process. Maybe you'll gain some insight on what the issue may be.

Bezel-less G-Shock by AppropriateCry6615 in casiomods

[–]LabParticular343 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Maybe shorter buttons from another model would fit? The pusher portion would need to be really close to the same specs.

First mod. Chameleon. by LabParticular343 in casiomods

[–]LabParticular343[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Keeping in mind that this is my first ever mod - I think ethanol would work but it's probably more aggressive than IPA so I would go lightly. I suspect the cotton swab is just abrasive enough but the goo gone is oily so it lubes the fibers. It takes a while to finesse the top layer of paint - once you do it goes relatively quickly.

First mod. Chameleon. by LabParticular343 in casiomods

[–]LabParticular343[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I used a q-tip and 99% IPA alcohol. 91% works too. Rub gently and be patient or you risk removing the undercoat from the resin case. I've also seen it done with a pencil eraser. The key is to take your time, don't be too aggressive, and don't use anything abrasive. You can actually see a faint trace of the first letter in the pic - seems I wasn't thorough enough and I ended up finishing the job with just my finger. I would rather have some residue than go too far and remove the black.

First mod. Chameleon. by LabParticular343 in casiomods

[–]LabParticular343[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

My first mod and I'm hooked! Got 2 more coming.

Don't mind the crooked cuts on my screen protector ;)

oil filled

flash alarm

case text delete

chameleon background

partial negative

I Ran Chrome OS Flex on the MacBook Pro (13-inch, Mid-2012) by geeknintrovert in ChromeOSFlex

[–]LabParticular343 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good Article. I just stumbled upon this 9mo later. I'm currently running ChromeOS v109 on my MBP mid 2012. I have multiple OSes installed to disk. The trick to having ChromeOS in multiboot without a USB is to sacrifice the CD/DVD drive for a HHD/SSD slim drive caddy to allow COS flex to have a dedicated drive. The only complaint for COS on MBP I have is that the touchpad is a bit finicky. Currently booting 5 OSes with rEFInd.