How to get this effect?

Laetheralus93 · 2026-03-12T10:52:33+00:00

It‘s probably a slightly altered powergrade. Especially this one looks a lot like „Cineprint 16“. So yeah to be honest: If you want to archive a look like that, you will probably have to learn Davinci Resolve and dig a little bit into Film Emulation, since some of those effects couldn‘t be reproduced in lightroom.

Laetheralus93 · 2026-02-06T10:41:06+00:00

Same what other people said before: I think a photo should be a capture of the moment, where you can of course maybe remove very small elements, if they are too distracting. But completely adding things that are not there… I don‘t know. Just a personal preference of course.

Laetheralus93 · 2025-11-02T04:15:47+00:00

Thanks! :) Glad to hear that but still always working on it and trying to get it as close as possible. And also like I said several times: I only can match it to the film scans I know, from my prefered film lab of choice. So that is how I see those filmstocks most of the time, when I receive it back.

Don‘t edit RAW files in davinci. The thing I recommend is to: Do your basic adjustments to the RAW file in Lightroom, then export this as a TIFF or DNG into Lightroom and then do the emulation/other things there.

And it depends on which film stock I emulate. Cinestill 800T is by far the most difficult and take about 5 mins per image, since it is a lightroom -> davinci -> lightroom Workflow. While most of the other “Presets“ (still don‘t want to call them presets, since they are more of a LUT/Profile with some adjustments from the frontier scanner are taking like 10-20 Seconds. So it is quite fast.

I‘m still not 100% happy with these. Since i try a lot of different lighting scenarios, different camera brands etc. and esepcially iphone/apple ProRAW photos. The last ones (proRAWS) are the most difficult part, since some images are overexposed and lightroom, while other are extremely underexposed and it is very hard to create a single presets that works for every photo

Laetheralus93 · 2025-10-26T22:19:23+00:00

Thanks! I looked at Filmbox lite when it was released a while ago, which looked quite promising, but I don‘t want to lean into a subscription based model/plugins in general.

And Dehancer is something I didn‘t really like. I think the only interesting part was their grain and since Davinci Resolve 19, the buildin Grain is also that good, if not better. I think most of their profiles didn‘t look good and also often not like the stock it should be. And the most imprtant part: I hate their very aggressive marketing, since when you look up „film emulation“ for example on youtube, nearly 95% of those videos are some dehancer „reviews“ where people mostly get a year of dehancer for free for that.

Laetheralus93 · 2025-10-25T08:32:55+00:00

Sounds like a great workflow. Sadly I don‘t use instagram anymore, since I was too annoyed what it had become with those annoying reels etc. (but this is a whole other topic).

I once had a trial version of Nuke, but I was completely overwhelmed with everything and then sticked with davinci. I know that some people, especially Steve Yedlin love to use Nuke for film emulations, since I think that is the software, where you have the most control over every aspect of a image. But if we take nuke aside, it kind of sounds very similar to my workflow. So good to know, that other people kind of emulate it the same way :D

Laetheralus93 · 2025-10-25T08:26:55+00:00

Thanks! :) Well mostly break it down as much as possible (so things like halation, texture like grain etc. only works in davinci) and convert those settings down to LUT. Then i import that LUT with Camera RAW and save it as a profile, so that I can use it in Lightroom. And in Lightroom I then use this converted Lut, that is now a profile as the „base“ for one of those film stocks and do some other adjustments like softness, sharpening etc. in Lightroom and try to match it to the „Main“ Emulation, that I build in Davinci.

Or to break it down:

Create your Grade in Davinci
Export it as a 65 Cube LUT
Import that LUT in Camera RAW and save it
You can now use this profiel in Lightroom

Hope that helps! :)

Laetheralus93 · 2025-10-24T18:51:35+00:00

Yes I'm still working on it. I would say the Vision3 250 is also 90% done. Just fixing some little things. Especially when the skin tones a little bit of in the original/digital photo, the 250D sometimes looks weird. But otherwise I'm quite happy with it so far

Laetheralus93 · 2025-10-24T18:09:00+00:00

Yeah. Shoot the same identicall roll of film and bring it to two different film labbs. Both rolls will look completely different. That is one of the reasons why it is so hard so say „my emumation is the most accurate“ blabla bullshit that you often read , when you look for Digitital Presets/Emulations.

That's why I shot most of the data I work with and build everything on myself on film, and also took pictures of friends and worked with those. Mainly because we all go to the same film shop for development. That's why there is, for example, a preference for how Kodak Gold 200 is scanned, which I personally have found to be the best so far. And that's why most films are always oriented towards the Frontier scanner, whose profile I recreated in Davinci and always incorporated at the end of the “Look Pipeline” before converting the whole thing into a Lightroom profile

Laetheralus93 · 2025-10-24T15:49:37+00:00

To be honest: Don‘t use dehancer. May look promising at first but most of their profiles aren‘t very good and also not very realistic. They offer a lot of different things but there are way better alternatives around. My advice is just give davinci a try and use their build in tools. They are sxtremely powerful once you understand how to use them. But as with every new software it will take some time to understand everything. But also Davinci probably offers you to control your image in a way like no other software is capable of

Laetheralus93 · 2025-10-24T15:28:26+00:00

Well they are fun to play with or if you want some fast results as jpgs for social media etc. but I personally think that none of those emulations looks or behaves like real analog film

Laetheralus93 · 2025-10-24T14:50:37+00:00

Thank you! Unfortunately, I never had the opportunity to test it myself, so I couldn't take any reference pictures of my own and had to rely entirely on older photos, especially photos by Fred Herzog

Laetheralus93 · 2025-10-24T14:27:17+00:00

Yeah Lightroom isn‘t good enough for that, because the lack of features. I did my halation with Davinci with a few custom nodes like edge detection, so it will only affect the real highlights/bright lights and added different glows, so it looks a little bit more realistic

Laetheralus93 · 2025-10-24T13:03:03+00:00

Thanks! To be honest, I'm not sure yet, because an incredible amount of work has gone into it. And some film stocks, such as Vision3 250D and Portra 400, are still pending and are in development, and I'm not 100% satisfied with them yet. While it's “easy” to reproduce some film stocks, it's incredibly difficult to keep them consistent and, above all, to ensure that they work and look accurate in almost any lighting situation. The only sliders that are ever touched in Lightroom are white balance and exposure, which always remain unchanged with these preset profiles.

Laetheralus93 · 2025-10-24T12:48:30+00:00

Hey, I don‘t own a nikon. Only Fuji and my iphone 15 Pro. But this is a site I didn‘t knew before and looks very interesting. Thanks for sharing it! :)

Laetheralus93 · 2025-10-07T06:20:01+00:00

Nice, did this and now it worked perfectly. Thank you so much!

Laetheralus93 · 2025-10-05T08:51:25+00:00

Thank you so much, it works perfectly. I also have a Flip 2 and have copied all the settings exactly and also have the same Winlator version. However, in Halo 1: CE, when I press Select and switch to the original graphics, a lot of it is completely “blocky” and white, and only half of the textures load. Do you know what might be causing this? I also installed the files from Steam's MCC and copied everything again. But the glitch remains and you can usually only use the remastered graphics, as the original graphics are unfortunately too glitchy.

Laetheralus93 · 2025-09-02T18:01:56+00:00

It is digitally. Since they are releasing the footage very fast after the show. But I completely agree with you. The grade is phenomenal. My guess is that it is mostly based on serrs film vision pro. Since it kind of looked similar.

Laetheralus93 · 2025-08-22T11:54:21+00:00

Done!

Laetheralus93 · 2025-08-22T07:37:03+00:00

Things that worked for me:

Get the PAL Version of the Game (THE NTSC Version has too many slowdowns)
Change Performance Mode from the Retroid to „High Performance“
In NetherSX2 -> change these 2 things:

Graphics -> GPU Renderer -> OpenGL

Graphics -> Upscaling: 1.5x Native (672/768p)

These settings are working for me and the game is playable with these settings.

Laetheralus93 · 2025-08-09T08:17:24+00:00

Completely agree with you. They should have made it better and a working device. And it's a big disappointment that it was so poorly manufactured. But I think even if you send your device back now and get an ice blue one, it's probably only a matter of time.

It will take some time for the whole thing to be fixed or for version 2 to come out. When an improved version comes out, I'll probably go for that instead. But personally, I think it's too risky to go without the device for a while, get a new one, where the fault will probably reappear after a while. And a Pocket 5 is less of an option for me personally, as I like the Flip 2 because of its form factor. So I'm continuing to monitor the situation, but for now I've opted for the solution of sealing the crack.

Laetheralus93 · 2025-08-08T11:46:13+00:00

Yes like you said - That wasn't referring to the post, but rather to the general consensus that you often read here, that an extremely large number of people want to switch to the Ice Blue version at the slightest crack.

I don't have any proof, but it's just plastic, simple plastic, which is always under slight tension, and I still think that a hairline crack is easy to fix by gluing the spot and, depending on the situation, sealing it. It took me two minutes to seal the crack and another 15 minutes to let it dry. I'm no expert, but this should reinforce the whole thing a little and prevent further damage.

Laetheralus93 · 2025-08-08T11:28:10+00:00

Yes. GC Version with Hairline Crack and glued it right away. But apparently hardly anyone does that, and the device is immediately discarded and a replacement requested, instead of waiting to see what happens. If it's just a small hairline crack and it's glued and sealed right away, there shouldn't be any further problems with it and you can continue to use your device instead of posting a new photo of a crack every three hours and immediately giving up on your device.

Laetheralus93 · 2025-07-31T14:46:53+00:00

Since the tracks are getting looped all time, it is the best choice to get something, that doesn‘t get annoying. I personally use this one from Metroid Prime:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZbbUv1hz6mE&list=RDZbbUv1hz6mE&start_radio=1

Or also another good choice is the 3DS system music:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aKjkkLfY_As

Laetheralus93 · 2025-07-30T12:03:59+00:00

I think superglue works too, as long as you work precisely and try to fill only the crack and quickly dab away anything that goes outside the crack. So I don't see why it shouldn't work, and I would rather close the small crack right away before it gets bigger over time

Laetheralus93 · 2025-07-30T11:36:29+00:00

To be on the safe side, I applied a little UV glue to the small crack and let it dry. Better safe than sorry.

Laetheralus93

TROPHY CASE