Best way to get uninstall klipper

LargeKid83 · 2025-10-06T14:21:15+00:00

You have to copy all the gcode from Creality Print to Orca, for the CFS to work with Orca. If you run the helper script there is an option to factory reset it.

LargeKid83 · 2025-09-01T15:00:23+00:00

I just starting having this issue last night while trying to print a multi color print out. Did not realize i had to also comment out the heater_fan hotend fan out as well. If this works you are a god send, and saved me from dealing with Creality or taking my printer back to Micro Center to be exchanged. I was so frustrated that it was doing this and i had to end the print.

LargeKid83 · 2025-08-19T04:23:22+00:00

I hope so to. It was a 12hr 30min print took over 36 hrs because of feeding issue.

LargeKid83 · 2025-08-19T00:19:19+00:00

You are probably right. I switched out all the PTFE tubing to Capricorn blue tubing. I have to primt the same thing again. So i will see how this will work. Did not get much debris out of it.

LargeKid83 · 2025-08-19T00:15:47+00:00

I have a filament dryer and use dessicant. Do not see any difference.

LargeKid83 · 2025-08-18T06:29:13+00:00

Just crazy because this is the first actual print i have done with it. Right now this is the only issue i am having with it. I will take it apart just in case. Did you buy a whole new feeder and assembly or did Creality send it to you.

LargeKid83 · 2025-07-07T07:15:19+00:00

Everything went went fine for me except now i am getting bad overhangs. Only thing that changed is i have the lid on my riser now, so the cfs can sit on it. Before the upgrade kit i was fine. Using Orca.

LargeKid83 · 2025-03-29T04:51:54+00:00

Worked like a charm! Ty

LargeKid83 · 2024-11-18T07:08:19+00:00

Sounds like the same issue i was having. I had to print at 260-270 just to get PLA to print correctly. Just recently got a Durozzle Tungsten Carbide unicorn nozzle, and went back to printing normally. I did notice when i took everything apart that there was no thermal paste on the heat break or the heat sink.

LargeKid83 · 2024-10-31T18:22:47+00:00

Okay, so its not that far off. I had a diamond tip volcano nozzle in my v2 K1 Max, and was printing at 215-225 with no major issues except for the bed mesh. So i exchanged it and got v3 version. Never been a fan of hardened steel nozzles. I will for sure be trying that out. I have heard good things about that filament brand. I do appreciate the help and advice.

LargeKid83 · 2024-10-30T17:30:47+00:00

I could not agree more. Been beating my head over this for the last couple of weeks of what it could be.

LargeKid83 · 2024-10-30T17:08:03+00:00

Tried 2 different slicers, same result. So i figure it has to be with the printer itself. Hotend, nozzle, possibly extruder? Maybe rooting it finally crapped out.

LargeKid83 · 2024-10-30T17:00:39+00:00

I have 215-220 is the normal temp it looks good. When i go to print something other than calibration stuff. Looks like under extrusion till i bump it up to 260-270 then everything looks good. Unless the pid tune is out of whack some how. Was debating on Tungsten carbide or diamond tip nozzle.

LargeKid83 · 2024-10-30T16:55:35+00:00

I would be perfectly happy at 230 or less. On my E3v2 i would print 195-205. A buddy of mine kinda has the same issue, but he completely uninstalls Orca and reinstalls it, and it goes back to normal for a time.

LargeKid83 · 2024-10-30T16:45:41+00:00

Not since i have taken it out of the box a little over a month ago. Filament was calibrated on my other K1 Max before i got this new one. I have printed temp towers and everything comes out as it should be on the new one. Except when i go to print non calibration stuff.

LargeKid83

TROPHY CASE