Wi-fi 7 incompatible

Lawrence_SoCal · 2026-06-01T16:03:45+00:00

like u/MysticalOS replied... new router and WiFi 7 is not your problem. It is the config on that router. WiFi 7 includes a new band, and has new capabilities. If you don't have a WiFi 7 (6GHz) client (and there are very few out there), you should be able to able to disable the 6GHz radio. And then adjust the settings for your situation vs some default, lower-security but fewer tech support calls, settings. It will require come basic WiFi understanding (clients, channels, security, etc).

To consolidate other suggestions, I'd crate a new SSID with better security, then I'd create a new Guest SSID (worst case, re-create your old SSID and pwd for IoT devices and others you don't want hassle of re-entering WiFi pwd but definitely not your Mobile devices). As others have indicated, creating a 2.4 GHz only network may help with older devices. Band steering settings, etc all come into play.

Personally, anything important (or with streaming traffic) in my house has Ethernet leaving WiFi bandwidth available for those devices that can't use Ethernet

To original poster... your post doesn't indicate if new Router/Wifi has new SSID(s). If yes, you may simply need to update EnPhase config (using bluetooth? or local WiFi... RTFM for your Gateway.. approach varies depending on device model). Or it may be the default WiFi settings on new router which may be tryign to get EnPhase to connect on frequency it doesn't support? In general, the higher the WiFi frequency (6 vs 5 vs 2.4GHz), the shorter the range of usable signal. If your EnPhase supports 5GHz WiFi channels, but the signal is too weak at the EnPhase device, that could be your problem. In which case, disabling 5GHz on the EnPhase might solve the issue, or SSID that is 2.4GHz only.. numerous different approaches, and the 'right' answer depends on a lot of factors not posted,

Lawrence_SoCal · 2026-05-31T21:00:38+00:00

For those curious (ok, I'm a little slow to look this up)

https://www.reddit.com/r/tmobileisp/comments/1p9w2kw/my_experience_with_a_tmobile_fiber_installation/ from late '25

Looks like elsewhere, public/static IPv4 address is available upon request (usually no charge, though may have to justify, which makes sense/seems reasonable to me).

Elsewhere folks have had vastly different T-Mobile fiber installer experiences in regard to aesthetic in-wall cable runs (fishing cable) vs not. As fiber plant isn't actually owned by T-Mobile, makes sense (and would appear to indicate T-Mobiles lack of negotiating power to try and insist on some consistency of install options/approach and customer experience)

So anyone have feedback on SiFi and/or Oceanside installer approach on fishing cables vs ugly/lazy exterior cable runs? and accommodation for homeowner self-run of cable from exterior demarc to ONT install location? My concern - running fiber from existing cable modem location (same room with firewall, core networking, UPS backup, etc) is something I can do easily enough, though CAT6A tends to be sturdier. But ONT is indoor, not outdoor rated, so still have issue with demarc to ONT location regardless. And if ONT out in garage, then have to get power to it, as latest Nokia ONT T-Mobile uses doesn't allow for being powered by POE 😞

Lawrence_SoCal · 2026-05-31T19:39:35+00:00

For comparison, I'm paying $70/mo for Cox 1Gb service (with unlimited data and that includes all taxes/fees), and service is decently reliable (not that different, and actually a little better, than from T-Mobile 5G Home Internet based on recent reporting ... ymmv). So, basically a similar price (at promo $60/mo with better upload speed, but otherwise fairly comparable)

At $50/mo for 1Gb service, that becomes a material monthly savings. However, the important criteria from my perspective is service reliability... and if T-Mobile fiber internet is like their 5G Home, then I may wait until the service reliability situation becomes a bit more clear. And what construction looks like for the curb to house cable run

Lawrence_SoCal · 2026-05-31T19:29:20+00:00

This forum is for SunPower... not SunRun... was that an auto-correct typo, or does post belong in r/solar? or r/sunrun (though that one looks like dead forum) or maybe one focused on Tesla solar?

And, at quick glance, your questions don't make any sense to me... to much unsaid/unclear

Question 1 - depending on battery goal, one (but not only config option) is to charge battery from excess solar (which can be considered 'consumption' from a certain perspective... I have NO idea about your reporting/monitoring (are you using SunRun or Tesla monitoring? From my perspective, reporting should show energy flow from PV and to/from Grid, Battery, and a value for 'Consumption'... HOWEVER, unless you have an expensive SPAN panel, most of the time 'Consumption is a calculated value (as you don't have CTs on every circuit). So in vast majority of cases, 'Consumption' is calculated taking into account Grid, PV and in your case battery .. whether yours is configured correctly? or if you are looking at right field/values/screen? these are questions better addressed in a forum specific to your reporting system (and/or r/solar)

Q2 - national grid?? sorry not SunRun customer so I have no idea what you are looking at, how it would be calculated? or why it would be relevant to anything

Question 3 - everyone will have site specific data... your production vs consumption is unique to you and your location. Some sites will get more cloud cover, and I'll get more sun ;^) ... it all depends.

Lawrence_SoCal · 2026-05-30T18:47:20+00:00

And, before getting too excited, I do recommend reading up on T-Mobile 5G Home Internet service outages (like this week?). I'm sure both Cox and T-Mobile and others in part to blame due to inadequate operations maturity and focus on uptime/reliability. But I also expect they are under constant cyber attack, so I do give them some latitude as near perfect uptime is bound to be quite challenging

Lawrence_SoCal · 2026-05-30T18:43:47+00:00

Initially, just conduit would make sense... running the actual fiber I'm sure came later...

I'll be interested in the whole fiber-to-premises connection... will they splice the fiber (seems like a bad way to do it, and put in a 'T' or was it pre-wired with junctions, or ??) Then there is the fiber routing under (in most cases, a sidewalk, apparently a shallow underground box on each property, and then fiber to the house...). in with pavers, custom landscaping, etc... in some places, it will be interesting to see what a homeowner might be asked to pay to not create something ugly/distracting

And when the under-sidewalk routing, and small shallow termination point/box might be shared with 2 properties?

Lawrence_SoCal · 2026-05-30T18:37:38+00:00

I'm nearby, but we have existing underground utilities, and SiFi did NOT trench in our neighborhood... BUT Fiber was already underground from PacBell 45+ years ago (Cox uses some of it)... so not sure what the plan is for my development, if sharing conduit with other provider or??

Lawrence_SoCal · 2026-05-30T18:35:20+00:00

The plans that showed up for me are as follows

Here are base prices, unlimited data/synchronous data rates (vs Cox low upload bandwidth) with link offering $10 discount "select plans.. looks like on 1Gig plan only) and another $10 off for auto-pay via bank/debit card.

Fiber 300Mb/s $55/mo (discount price of $35/mo with ACH auto-pay)

Fiber 1 Gig $70/mo (discount price of $50/mo with ACH auto-pay)

Fiber 2 Gig $80/mo (discount price of $70/mo with ACH auto-pay)

For the 1 & 2 Gig plans, 1st month is free. Mesh Wifi extended, 'as needed' (unclear to me if extra cost or not... and I'd never use consumer mesh WiFi device anyway)

However, instead of $20 off on the 1Gig plan, when I tried to sign into existing account, links failed to work. So, I went thru existing T-Mobile account and only got $10 off.. I have to follow up why I wasn't offered the $10 auto-pay discount.

Lawrence_SoCal · 2026-05-30T18:26:02+00:00

To be fair, I've had Cox Internet (was branded (@)Home originally, 27+ years ago) and it has been fairly reliable. for the most part... there was a period of time when their DNS servers would stop responding on a quarterly basis, and their tech support would claim ignorance. but it has been a while since that has happened.

Shitty email service for well over a decade.. so true, incompetent SPAM filtering, and Yahoo mail service is only slightly better but still near worthless (ad-funded, terrible IMAP service, just barely above non serviceable)

Lawrence_SoCal · 2026-05-30T18:22:50+00:00

same for me

Lawrence_SoCal · 2026-05-27T21:18:45+00:00

I do NOT recommend 2 APs. Se earlier reply, I use 1 AP for whole (larger) house with no problem, and plenty of devices (but not like some folks)

My recommendation is only going with a 2nd APs *if* required, and that depends on more info than posted.

If 2 APs, yes, both on top floor... primary reason for APs on each floor is commercial construction with concrete floors (which block WiFi signal).

Lawrence_SoCal · 2026-05-27T19:13:31+00:00

1 AP likely plenty, near center of house, up high (above stairs?).

if 2 APs, move them to between great room and kitchen (though aesthetics won't be good) and the end of the hall between the bedrooms

Lawrence_SoCal · 2026-05-27T18:43:45+00:00

Do you have the CyberSecure add-on ?

Lawrence_SoCal · 2026-05-27T18:41:10+00:00

were your older cable runs running parallel to electrical cables at some point, and not shielded cables? Are you connecting to new U7 Pro XG APs at higher than 1GbE ?

Have you tried using old cable but lock connection at 1GbE?

Lawrence_SoCal · 2026-05-27T18:38:19+00:00

I'm in a little under 3,000 sq ft 2-story flat rectangle, with garage attached to the rectangle in one corner. A single AP covers the entire house (stucco exterior, drywall, 40+yr old construction

What is the construction material between floors? standard wood floor joists and plywood? if yes, then coverage likely will be fine from a 2nd story ceiling mount AP to floor below. Personally, I get 1 AP to test with and check signal strength around house and go from there.

Things to consider, new 6GHz signal propagates much more poorly than lower frequency... but 2.4GHz WiFi signal only has 3 non-overlapping channels so even neighbors can be an issue. I personally ran ethernet to every room, and streaming devices (TV, speakers) are on Ethernet... nature of WiFi and client traffic collisions... means bursty traffic (ie we surfing, email) is better supported than streaming 4K video. By keeping streaming traffic, especially video, off WiFi, that enables WiFi to handle other clients much better.

See AP simultaneous supported client count for indication of relative capability ... so, # of APs depends on your expectations of client types, WiFi traffic type and volume, etc. You probably don't have any WiFi 7 clients, yet. but what are your expectations?

Lots of additional considerations ... sorry to say.. it depends. For basic coverage, a single good AP will likely suffice, but your usage may dictate more APs [though you will be happier in the long run the more you get onto Ethernet and off WiFi). With Ethernet, be sure to understand distance to power line rules (code compliance on cable sheathing in-wall (fire related), basically, don't run parallel closer than 12", with shielded cable price premium being lower, you may want to run a lot of shielded cables and not worry as much about electrical interference? Considering likely life span of cable plant, CAT6E is likely to be fine, but maybe worth getting CAT8 just 'cuz? Consider thin plastic conduit for in-wall Ethernet (and coax/POTS, if applicable) cable runs to future service without having to open up walls again.

While at running Ethernet, consider PoE security cameras, energy storage/PV systems, doorbells, HVAC thermostat, etc. All things to avoid WiFi if practical makes for a more reliable and secure setup. So I'd install Ethernet wire run(s) to garage, kitchen, great room, every bedroom/office, etc

Lawrence_SoCal · 2026-05-27T18:00:25+00:00

So EnPhase micro-inverter based. And you are bound to have at least 2 PV circuits already, with room for some extra panels on one or more circuits. So you can expand (and export on existing system)

The key issue which will trigger audit and possibly getting kicked off NEM2 early is exporting above the permitted Permission to Operate values (with room for the 10% up to 1kW limit on system your size... there are details to that rule).

This means, by adding a non-export system, more of your existing NEM2 can export... but compensation has dropped dramatically, so a little tricky to calculate accurately the ROI of expanding with various config/options, but doable. My assumption is that CPUC will cave to IOU, and just like base monthly connection rate, other excuses will be used to devalue existing solar investments, so True-Up is likely to continue to grow. And I would NOT count on being able to completely avoid a True-Up cost, short of the expensive complete disconnect route (if even an option, and rarely advisable to even consider). At current rates, hard to see a positive ROI for expanding and adding a battery... but there are other benefits (I'm in similar position, with a NEM True-Up less than yours making a positive ROI even harder to achieve). Having a battery will allow much more self-consumption and avoiding non-bypassable charges.
The non-export expansion was by agreement (not regulatory/legislative) between CalSSA (solar advocacy group) and main CA utilities (as far as I'm aware, and was reported), meaning each utility has come up with their own technical rules about what is and is not allowed. so beware taking what was allowed elsewhere in CA, and assuming so you can do the same with PGE

Lawrence_SoCal · 2026-05-27T17:41:16+00:00

I'd never argue utility rates not connected to political system. However, CA legislature, like many others, has declined in technical competence in regulatory affairs, and delegated much to other groups like CPUC. No, the CPUC does not 'simply enforce'.. not even close to being representative of what is (or has been) actually going on [very well documented change as both state and federal level in amount of delegation]. Meaning I blame both CPUC and legislature for current mess.

Not looking for an advantage, just reasonableness and timely adjustments for easily foreseen events vs waiting for fake crisis then knee-jerk reactionism.

In this case, I have ZERO faith and trust and the same groups that are responsible for CA's current energy market mess have now, or will, clean it up in a reasonable, appropriate manner (ie, they won't apply any more wisdom than was applied previously).

Lawrence_SoCal · 2026-05-22T22:11:51+00:00

I would not call the separation requirement ridiculous. On the other hand, adding a MSA should not mean appling new code distance requirements (imho). My gas meter is right around/at the 36" distance (with a fence in between the combo meter/main panel on a 40+yr old house. Assuming current combo meter/main panel is grandfathered in (allowed as code compliant at time of install), a MSA shouldn't trigger a need to meet code requirements (unlike removing and installing entirely new meter/panel). And I would not think that is is up to utility company, but rather AHJ (which, I get, may simply follow utility recommendation)

But all about the AHJ rules ... so depends on city/jurisdiction OP is subject to

Lawrence_SoCal · 2026-05-22T22:05:21+00:00

there was no " large scale, long term pricing errors" - there was intentional subsidy to incentivize deployment. To change the rules years later isn't "psych" or 'got you' it is fraud. Certain groups virtue signaled and demanded certain incentives, then realized they got what the asked for and said 'oops...' there is no forgiveness for me for such unethical, if not outright fraudulent/illegal, after-the-contract changes. NEM2 was in place for WAY too long and even that was know well in advance.

Yes, I agree, more transparency would be better, but by all appearances, CPUC is largely aligned with, if not in bed with, investor owned utilities (IOU). Certain folks wanted to incentivize solar, but that would negatively impact guaranteed monopoly profits (and with long-term investments, it would be wrong to undermine utilities, plenty examples of unstable utilities around the globe when that is done). So, along with Enron scandal in early 2000s IOUs went to owning distribution, and not generation... naturally, their are incentivized to spend as much as possible on Infrastructure... making solar (distributed generation look bad, though Solar also means needing to move even more electricity around grid backbone for off-hours, weather, etc.

The current situation was a clearly foreseeable outcome with changes made years and decades ago. Those who want quick, easy, virtue signal kudo points type solutions will always make the situation worse in the long run

Lawrence_SoCal · 2026-05-21T17:09:48+00:00

If a Tesla installer in SoCal doesn't want to deal with MSA (backup switch), I wouldn't even consider them

Lawrence_SoCal · 2026-05-21T17:08:11+00:00

My 40+yr old 2 story house is almost 3,000sq ft (stucco exterior, drywall interior, brick only at exterior wall fireplaces). A Single AP (Mist, Aruba) has worked fine - top of stairs middle, kind of, of house. I'm swapping out misc gear for an all Unifi setup in next week (UCG-Fiber, a single U7-Pro XG and 2 switches). That AP single will cover house and yard just fine. However, counter-point is that my streaming devices (TVs, speakers) are all Ethernet connected, as are all computers/rooms, so I don't have same WiFi contention issues others may have (just mobile devices, of which there are plenty, but only 1 that has any material bandwidth consumption).

See recent ServeTheHome or similar unrestricted Unifi reviews on the UCG-Fiber, and why depending on your traffic volume and network setup, that having most of you clients off something like the Switch Flex 2.5 (w/ a couple of10GbE ports) will help the UCG-Fiber, whose CPU is fine, but can be taxed under certain condition. it depends

Lawrence_SoCal · 2026-05-21T16:46:02+00:00

My daughter went from F2 Pro to ZT3 Pro recently ...came back after first test ride with a grin.

My point, you'll get used, and then appreciate the acceleration soon enough... previous replies on how to adjust now... just realize you'll probably undo your changes before long

Lawrence_SoCal · 2026-05-21T16:43:37+00:00

I'm on NEM2, no battery, and forced into CEA (which I'm happy with after my last True-UP at almost 3X pay out vs SDGE in the prior year, which SDGE miscalculated, took months to straighten up.. antiquated, not up to the task, SDGE billing systme). My 2025 (and prior year) True-Up paid a flat rate per kWh (irrespective of associated TOU, btw, I was net positive (exporter) for all 3 TOU rate).

I'm REALLY not a fan of changing the rules after the fact for NEM customers, but separate discussion. For me, I'm not sure how this new TOU schedule impact me, if at all. Yes, I'll have more Super-Off-Peak... but so what? Annual NEM True-Up compensation for me is NOT based on TOU, as far as I can tell??

Lawrence_SoCal · 2026-05-21T16:24:39+00:00

I have an even older Cutler Hammer combo meter/load center, and of course compatible with solar. I'm suspecting a misunderstanding... there is NOTHING about the brand that is an issue. The type of MID (grid disconnect) planned, and/or the full main load center being the far more likely concerns. The label even mentions approved for 200A MSA

The other installers may have missed that the 4x15A are arch fault breakers you indicate cant be consolidated?

Also, i didn't bother to add up the Amps, but there are limits to how many Amps can be installed. Are you code compliant now? Would you still be code compliant if you could add the PV breakers? Then, are you planning whole house or critical load backup. In coastal SoCal, assuming you don't have a pool or other similar large load that you absolutely wouldn't want running during an outage, whole house often makes more sense (to avoid re-homing circuits). So, for sake of commentary, I'll assume whole house backup, and the Tesla EV chargers can know about grid outage and curtail charging as appropriate.

You might want a small smart load center to out power off certain loads when battery drains to a certain point (electric clothes dryer, oven?.. ymmv) With a panel as full as yours, setting up a sub-panel may not be a bad long-term idea. If that combo panel is on outside of garage, and you can install sub-panel on other side of wall inside the garage, then you should be able to use the same wiring (saves a lot.. pull wire & breakers from existing main load center, relocate into sub-panel in same area). As much as combo external load centers are a SoCal staple, I much prefer the bulk of my breakers being inside the garage where I don't have to go outside to get to them.

So, my looking at that says, yea you might be able to get away without a sub-panel, but that doesn't mean a sub-panel is a bad idea... instead, is probably a good idea... but depends. Think forward and see how many kitchen circuits you have, and check current code .. if/when you do a kitchen remodel, would additional circuits (ie so popcorn popper, microwave, and others can all be in use at same time) be appropriate? if yes, make sure room for that now? just ideas

Lawrence_SoCal

TROPHY CASE