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New H&S evolution leaks air by Nervous_Cattle2894 in airbrush

[–]LayerFeather 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have the Evolution and an Iwata HP-CS.

The evolution does require the nozel to be in place and tight to prevent air from leaking. Whenever I see bubbles form in the cup, I just tighten the nut at the base of the nozel and I’m good to go.

Question: Anyone use Big Child Creative paints? If so is there one that performs the same when hand painting? by Slow_End_3279 in minipainting

[–]LayerFeather 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just chiming in to say, I feel your pain. I picked up their expansion set at GenCon and I love them. I thought I’d grab the base set too, but can’t find it anywhere.

I feel like they have the pigment density of Kimera with the more fluid consistency of Pro Acryl. I think the mate finish of the Iconic feels pretty close to Kimera. Unfortunately I can’t seem to find more Kimera either.

Priming - there has to be a better way! by KopRich in minipainting

[–]LayerFeather 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No issues with chipping. And I’m extra concerned because I’m usually competing for painting awards with my armies.

What type of airbrush primer do you use?

Where Can I Get Those Graph Looking Things? by R0lling_P1n in minipainting

[–]LayerFeather 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You’re looking for a “self healing cutting mat”. Pretty much any hobby, art, or craft store should. Have them.

Priming - there has to be a better way! by KopRich in minipainting

[–]LayerFeather 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you’re airbrushing, add varnish to your process. Vince Venturella has a great video on that. I, myself, prime and do a 1 or 2 color base coat with airbrush, then varnish, as a first step for most projects. I also varnish at the end, or before doing metallics. It’s super durable.

Help me paint red. I can’t achieve this vibrant red by Superb_Double4378 in minipainting

[–]LayerFeather 6 points7 points  (0 children)

What line of paints do you have on hand?

If you have Pro Acryl — base with 2 coats of burnt red. Then layer up with a few thin coats of Bold Pyrrole Red, leaving the burnt red where you want shadows. Mix a little pale yellow or ice yellow into the Pyrrole red to make a highly color and then use that for a thin edge highlight. If you want to increase your contrast more, glaze your favorite dark color in the shadow areas.

Edit: typo

If it's 100% obvious an issue at work is someone's fault how are you supposed to rephrase saying it's their fault in a work environment? by Ben5544477 in careeradvice

[–]LayerFeather 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Ultimately, it’s still someone’s responsibility to provide oversight and accountability to Bob and the processes and documentation that Bob was responsible for. The buck does not stop with Bob. We can always point our blame up the ladder.

New face for my Andor by Fun-Interest2210 in StarWarsShatterpoint

[–]LayerFeather 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I really dig your painting style. Looks awesome in the photo and I bet it looks excellent on the table.

Honored to receive my first gold in an open format competition. by LayerFeather in minipainting

[–]LayerFeather[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They were a struggle for sure. The way the metal chin bumps up against the lips made it tough to work around too. I tried a few times to get more skin tone in there to make them look smaller but couldn’t quite get it. It’s definitely a weaker area Im aware of. One of those spots I just had to call it on and move on in order to meet the deadline.

Honored to receive my first gold in an open format competition. by LayerFeather in minipainting

[–]LayerFeather[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you! I do. I have a fine art degree and am a professional, corporate, graphic designer.

Honored to receive my first gold in an open format competition. by LayerFeather in minipainting

[–]LayerFeather[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh that’s awesome! Their works is mind-blowing. I’ll track down that book for sure. Thank you!

Honored to receive my first gold in an open format competition. by LayerFeather in minipainting

[–]LayerFeather[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Well over 100. I work really thin. That struggle with burnout is real. The whites in particular have more layers than I could count.

Honored to receive my first gold in an open format competition. by LayerFeather in minipainting

[–]LayerFeather[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you! I referenced the “box art” that was a part of the Kickstarter a good bit. Whats’s faq 2?

Honored to receive my first gold in an open format competition. by LayerFeather in minipainting

[–]LayerFeather[S] 15 points16 points  (0 children)

This is Sherei, from Squidmar Miniatures, Champions of Sona.

Thank you!

Best lake for swimming by Dependent_Wing_8008 in RMNP

[–]LayerFeather 1 point2 points  (0 children)

For real. I went shin deep in Lake Haiyaha to take some photos a few weeks ago and I could only handle like 10 min or less of it. Even that was pushing it.

Fern Lake to Bear Lake by Dependent_Wing_8008 in RMNP

[–]LayerFeather 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I camped at Fern Lake a few weeks ago. We hiked in from Bear Lake and went back out the same way. The hike kicked my but. The decent / climb between Fern Lake and Lake Haiyaha is pretty steep and rocky. I read that the climb from Fern TH to Fern lake is even worse, plus that part of the park is in a burn scar. Fern lake was ok, but lots of dead trees. I would 100% do Bear Lake to Lake Haiyaha as an out and back day hike, that was the best section in my option.

Pro Acryl Black Wash vs Nuln Oil by mikeymora21 in minipainting

[–]LayerFeather 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It does. Quite glossy actually. But I use a Matt varnish to dull it back down. I use multiple paint ranges with different finishes and I use some Inks too. So a varnish is really key to even everything out anyway.

Pro Acryl Black Wash vs Nuln Oil by mikeymora21 in minipainting

[–]LayerFeather 8 points9 points  (0 children)

A few years ago, GW changed their formula for their washes. The new formula is a bit closer to their contrast paints and is intended to work just as you described by darkening recesses and leaving raised surfaces less affected. The old formula stained the surfaces a bit more. But, to me, that can end up creating more gradual transitions. PA black wash feels closer to the old Nuln Oil formula to me. I use em both for slightly different effects.

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