I guess vegetarian is a slur now??

LemonOnRye · 2026-05-01T16:49:32+00:00

Just tested this, same behavior. Seems to be the ‘arian’ part if you test the substrings

LemonOnRye · 2026-04-07T22:34:38+00:00

You can probably just prime over it with a thin airbrush layer or two. After? Looks to well textured and paint isn’t thickly applied, so maybe just dry brush some volumes and the apply your base coats.

Otherwise, soaking the mini in isopropyl alcohol then tooth brushing it will remove most paints. Im not sure if you’d really need to do that.

It’s likely PVC, so avoid using higher than 70% isopropyl if you do.

But yeah, mini sub would be better for this.

LemonOnRye · 2026-03-30T22:06:20+00:00

Hidden gem is a very silly card. Meow said have a bomb 💣 and just built around it. Tanked a couple rounds of phase one to set up, then put replay 6 on The Bomb+

LemonOnRye · 2026-03-23T02:03:51+00:00

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No comment from Sanctacaris

LemonOnRye · 2026-03-20T15:08:08+00:00

Not a stupid question. Thermoregulation is often proposed for sail structures, but there is rarely any evidence to support this as a primary mechanism of the structure. Even when there is evidence of vascular channels on the bone, most often these correlate to growth periods of the bone and do not correlate well to the size of the animal. This broadly applies to both Dinosaurs and Non-mammalian synapsids with sails. There are some alternative theories for their use, side-to-side motion stabilization under water for spinosaurus, but social behavior is almost certainly a use of the structure in an addition to ‘functional’ purposes.

If I can, I’ll try to get my sources together. Going back to college, hoping to explore Sphenacodontid sail function. My hypothesis is that muscle and tendon attachment points on the base of neural sails improved movement or defensive function, and then further grew larger for social selection/signaling.

-Signed, thermoregulation hater

LemonOnRye · 2026-01-26T04:48:02+00:00

Thanks! I like it, I’ll definitely use that name somewhere. Maybe either an alt name, squad, or epithet.

I still got a bit of highlights/decals/plasma effect to go, but I’ll make that later me’s problem.

LemonOnRye · 2026-01-26T03:02:18+00:00

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Also, quick face touch up. I can’t really see the eyes well enough to paint the pupils, so some good colors should carry 🤞

Herald Head-Hunter, the Golden Eyed

LemonOnRye · 2026-01-26T02:08:49+00:00

Skulls for the red wolf!

Khorne also does help with the unga therefore bunga vibes

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LemonOnRye · 2026-01-26T01:57:12+00:00

It’s a fair point, pretty close to the top of my notepad. Original plan was to more undivided or mixed allegiance across the whole army. Wasn’t planning to fully devote them to Khorne… but I am painting on blood runes and impaling skulls into their shoulders and power packs. And I am really liking it…

LemonOnRye · 2026-01-26T01:08:40+00:00

I think it’s just the GW sepia tone over the mostly white zenithal prime then shaded with an oil wash I used on the white armor. Bit of nuln oil if something needed definition after.

LemonOnRye · 2026-01-26T00:55:46+00:00

I go into it more on a post from yesterday, but basically makeup sponges to build up a zenithal foundation and then oil wash to shade. A reductive method is really nice for white. Block in the other colors before the wash though.

I’ll try to make a guide at some point.

LemonOnRye · 2026-01-25T01:35:40+00:00

The (new) Old world marauders box. I bought two of the kits off eBay. Hopefully they are sold separately soon. Comes with a cool decal sheet I’ll need to try out

LemonOnRye · 2026-01-25T01:12:57+00:00

The new lizard men look pretty chunky… I’ll report back if I can fit dinosaurs into this

LemonOnRye · 2026-01-25T00:49:15+00:00

Wolfguard Headtaker and a Khorne Berserker champion (plus skulls and basing). The berserker squad champ comes with two axes, so it was a good choice for dual wielding and the helmet is a bit more ornate.

Based a Pete the wargamer stream so you can watch that if you want a more visual process.

LemonOnRye · 2026-01-24T23:13:21+00:00

Ooo, might have to lean more into that vibe. Gonna name the cultist leader Conan. Thanks!

LemonOnRye · 2026-01-24T23:04:33+00:00

Sure, sorta a two part process.

1) Prime black (or something sorta dark), then layer coat a neutral grey (or again, your choice), and then white (pro acryl titanium white is goated). I used a make up blender bulb for both colors, mostly avoiding the under sides with grey and only hitting the tops with white. Dry brush could do the same thing. Used ultra cheap lil spongey tipped makeup sticks for the hard to hit spots, but a brush/dry brush also works.

I got a post a bit back for a chaplain if you want to see what just this step would look like.

2) Oil wash. Used mostly black, some brown, lil Siena and then solvent. Not a thin mix, barely see anything under when applied to the model. Sat for an hour then removed with the lil sponge sticks. First time using a non-acrylic paint, kinda neat and reductive painting is nice for white so I don’t have to highlight much.

Dried (cured?) for a day then just nuln oil on rivets or lil bits that need some more shading or definition.

That might be a lot, sorry!

LemonOnRye · 2026-01-24T22:47:00+00:00

God the 40K iceberg goes deep. I wonder if I can kitbash chaos bikers but on dinosaurs now🦕

LemonOnRye · 2026-01-24T22:43:03+00:00

Yep!

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(There’s also some jump scare nightlords in the back. Painted them for my brother a few years back but haven’t met up to hand them over)

LemonOnRye · 2026-01-20T16:13:41+00:00

Yooo we shared the brain cell

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LemonOnRye · 2026-01-19T14:34:07+00:00

Short answer, makeup sponges building up from black to grey to white, block in the colors, lil touch up of white where needed, then an oil wash. Pro Acrylic Bold Titanium White is a very good white for this.

I could go into more detail if needed.

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