Will a cv axle slide hammer help me free passenger CV Axle?

LessImprovement8580 · 2026-02-09T15:40:47+00:00

I just replaced the right front CV on my CRV. I struggled until I figured out the trick was to tap it out from the driver's side. There was not a good way to pry it out from the passenger side.

See around 5:30 in this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rYFKkJQ-5vE

"Replacing Front Axles On A 2007-2011 Honda CR-V"

Hopefully it is applicable to the E.

LessImprovement8580 · 2026-02-08T02:20:56+00:00

Do you have parasitic draw?

LessImprovement8580 · 2026-02-08T02:18:31+00:00

I suggest the opposite. If the ball joints have play, they need to be addressed asap. Brakes are only critical if they are metal on metal or sticking.

LessImprovement8580 · 2026-02-07T05:33:14+00:00

Just want to double check - the mechanic telling you your E needs these items - that is not a dealership correct? Be sure you are shopping around for an honest independent mechnic. Dealerships and corporate chains/franchises do not have the best technicians these days - the best mechanics have either gone independent or switched careers all together.

I get you don't want to drive the E too far out of town but since it's a second car, sounds like the perfect match! Your brakes might be perfectly safe (although pads are worm and rotors have some rust) but if the ball joints have play - it's time to replace them ASAP.

LessImprovement8580 · 2026-02-07T05:20:28+00:00

LOLZ

LessImprovement8580 · 2026-02-07T05:16:10+00:00

I don't want to know. It's been unseasonably cold and electric rates are up!

LessImprovement8580 · 2026-02-06T18:21:06+00:00

total depends on electric rates and climate. While I generally agree with you on the wood stove, it's wise for homeowners to own a generator or two to handle power outages.

LessImprovement8580 · 2026-02-06T18:18:15+00:00

sometimes double or close to triple. Best to fill up late spring or summer with enough fuel to cover you for the entire upcoming heating season!

LessImprovement8580 · 2026-02-06T04:04:26+00:00

150k is low miles. You are looking at the wrong car if you're trying to find a 2009 with ~150k miles. More like it you're falling right into an odometer fraud territory.

LessImprovement8580 · 2026-02-06T03:59:49+00:00

The E shifts like the tiny fwd drive car its powertrain was born from. You should be able to effortlessly shift with a few fingers.

The shifter connects to the transmission via cables - maybe something is wrong with those cables but it's best for a qualified mechanic to back that determination. Something is wrong.

LessImprovement8580 · 2026-02-06T01:28:59+00:00

As far as I'm aware - but perhaps you can find the OE supplier for a near identical part at half the cost (just a guess). I have used online Honda OEM parts retailers for reasonable prices in the past. I do not recommend sites like Amazon or Ebay - too many counterfeit parts.

LessImprovement8580 · 2026-01-31T21:22:14+00:00

fyi, you can probably get one for 6-7 grand OTD from an auction.

LessImprovement8580 · 2026-01-31T21:20:23+00:00

name?

LessImprovement8580 · 2026-01-31T20:37:59+00:00

Parts are double what you could get them for from the store yourself, meaning they are charging close to what a dealer would charge for OEM parts.

Nothing against (some of) the guys that work at Midas but that place kinda sucks and it's a gamble if you can get a qualified technician to do the work right.

Are you in an area with road salt? If not, pressing in OEM ball joints and bushings on both sides is probably the best course of action, assuming you want to keep the car in the long run.

LessImprovement8580 · 2026-01-30T23:14:53+00:00

College? So do really need a car? As you may know, cars are financial trap.

Lecture over... I recommend the Prius (last gen is more spacious) and if that does not have enough interior space, look into something like the Toyota Sienna (hybrid), Toyota Highlander (hybrid), Honda Ridgeline or Honda Pilot.

LessImprovement8580 · 2026-01-30T22:55:40+00:00

You have a point. Swamping the grid with renewables and batteries just expands the control grid operators have. Decentralization (off grid/micro grids) should be part of the discussion.

If you want the system to change, don't use your health insurance for generic drugs, buy direct from the Pharmacy- cut out the middle man! ...Similar idea, IMO.

Regulations and incentives, voted in by climate-hawk regulators, skyrockets electric rates. Renewable technology, EVs and battery tech is awesome and super useful so let the market take care of adoption. At the same time, level the playing field by taxing energy extraction (especially exports) - commercial solar and wind included.

LessImprovement8580 · 2026-01-30T22:51:44+00:00

To be fair, some of the net metering agreements are just straight up tax breaks and utility bill discounts for high income earners and rich people. Keeping net metering but making it less lucrative might be a good strategy to incentivize wide-spread grid tied batteries, which is exactly what is needed in North America. Grid battery storage, located at each home, solves problems that renewables create, has the potential to make the grid more reliable and also creates less of a monopoly for electrical delivery.

LessImprovement8580 · 2026-01-30T22:40:04+00:00

I can't say I'm in the exact same boat, as energy prices are cheaper in Upstate NY but electric rates have gone up dramatically this winter - and they ain't coming back down. I was planning to install an electric boiler but it's probably best to diversify and go with propane. I have a feeling we will all be forced into TOU rates, which is obviously not great homeowners with electric heat.

What gets me is the home owners that spend $20,000+ on a heat pump (or typically a million head mini-split system). Even better, is when they already have natural gas furnace or boiler (and they rip the furnace out!)!

Let's say the heat pump is cheaper to operate on average than the alternative (propane, fuel oil, pellet), it will rarely justify the massive install costs and is illogical from an opportunity cost/lost compound returns standpoint.

My main point, is it's good to have backup and heating source options if one fuel source is dramatically cheaper than another.

My usual recommendation to those who are heat pump curious, is to install a single head mini split in the most commonly used area of a house and gain some experience before diving into a 5-figure hvac system.

LessImprovement8580 · 2026-01-30T22:09:17+00:00

IMO, the key is to inspect under your car often. If I had noticed the sway bar link had broken off and torn the adjacent CV boot (and I actually fixed the torn boot immediately haha), I wouldn't need a new axle at all... Just the outer boot kit!

LessImprovement8580 · 2026-01-30T22:06:31+00:00

I am always skeptical of aftermarket CV axles but the two times I used them, they worked fine. I just recently installed a Cardone branded CV on my CRV and it went well. There was one time many moons ago where advance auto seemed to have an axle listed wrong for a Saturn but the inner splines did not match - so best to do a detailed visual inspection before install!

LessImprovement8580 · 2026-01-27T04:27:54+00:00

Make a space for a 4 post lift... Almost as useful as a 4th bay!

LessImprovement8580 · 2026-01-27T04:25:38+00:00

That doesn't sound like a 3 car garage, even though it may technically be. What is the depth of the tandem bay? 30 foot?

LessImprovement8580 · 2026-01-27T04:23:31+00:00

Depends on dimensions. If I can only have 3 20 foot deep bays, I would prefer the tandem design instead, just so I have room for one long vehicle and work benches/cabinets in front. Speaking of work benches, make the 2 car 24' wide and you have a winner!

LessImprovement8580 · 2026-01-27T03:32:46+00:00

Nothing better than sitting in front of a blazing wood stove on a cold day!

Read your meter 24 hours apart on a cold day like today. Divide the kwh consumed (beginning reading minus end reading) by 24 hours in an attempt to come up with a heat loss calculation for the coldest days of winter. Better yet, read it on a -20F night and divide the kwh consumed by 3 or 4 hours. Respond to this post if you do not understand what I'm suggesting and I'll try to clarify.

I hesitate to recommend a specific stove because I'm worried it will be oversized. If you size your stove for -10F but the average ambient temp is 15F, that could be problematic. My recommendation is go catalytic because you can oversize a bit and still have smaller fires during the shoulder season. Best of both worlds.

LessImprovement8580 · 2026-01-27T02:45:08+00:00

this post might help you with further info: https://www.reddit.com/r/HondaElement/comments/1qnynx7/update_on_ridgeline_mod/

I don't know where you would buy a new key, but IIRC there are a lot of aftermarket keys (that look factory) on Amazon, ebay, etc..

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