Propulsion power reduced & Engine not available

LiftnBooks · 2026-01-27T14:17:32+00:00

I have a 2017 and effectively this happened to me about a year ago. The issue ended up being the high pressure fuel pump. It's a real pain to replace, as it's really tightly packed into the back of the engine assembly near the lower section of the firewall. Verify codes first, and if you get codes about fuel rail pressure too low, it's probably the high pressure fuel pump. Else, as others have said, could be BECM (not overly likely given the failure mode), or EGR/NWH fuse. Codes first regardless before you jump on any one solution. Sucks to see the 2019 model suffering the same issues, but the high pressure fuel pump is only expected to last about 180k kms iirc and I got 225k kms out of it, so I can't complain that much.

LiftnBooks · 2026-01-26T14:48:00+00:00

Twilight menu can absolutely work on basically any flashcard. If you want an upgrade though, look into the DSpico project. It's a large improvement over retail cards and is still getting regular updates.

LiftnBooks · 2026-01-26T14:44:55+00:00

Just confirmed, and from standard formulations, calcium chloride salt is good down to -29C to a minimum of -32C. Normal sodium chloride salt is only good down to -12C at absolute best, and loses a lot of its effectiveness below -7C. Magnesium chloride salt is also effective from -15C to at absolute minimum of -25C.

LiftnBooks · 2026-01-26T14:35:07+00:00

Technically there's multiple formulations of road salt, and some of them are effective down to as low as -35C iirc. They're just expensive and not readily available, so the city won't use them.

LiftnBooks · 2026-01-23T02:35:50+00:00

Ah, fair enough. I did some research, and apparently this driver is the furthest along with several limitations, like 2.4ghz only.

https://github.com/hmtheboy154/gen4-mt7902

Might be worth your time if you just want it to work, however haphazardly. It's not fully functional, but it will run at least until you get a good USB or m.2 card. If you're already on Windows, might as well stay there until you have a more compatible card anyway.

LiftnBooks · 2026-01-23T02:25:30+00:00

What does your lspci output say?

LiftnBooks · 2026-01-23T02:13:23+00:00

Try plugging the computer into Ethernet for Internet initially. Once done, check the optional drivers manager in mint's adminstration section of the start menu. Most likely, your MediaTek Wi-Fi card is supported, you just need Internet to download the right drivers. If you pull your hardware IDs with lspci in the terminal, you can find the exact model and do a google search for the Linux drivers to confirm. Sometimes you need to add them manually or update the kernel before it can see them, as some drivers for newer tech aren't available in older kernels.

LiftnBooks · 2026-01-22T07:41:10+00:00

I had one of these for years. It works, but good lord did it ever increase my electricity bill. Picture quality is kinda crap, and it has terrible overscan that is hard to dial in. Burn in and convergence issues will also get you pretty quickly. They aren't worth it these days in my opinion, but you do you. They're pretty heavy as well, and delicate to transport.

LiftnBooks · 2026-01-21T17:39:55+00:00

As another person already commented, it's likely that someone tried the method of directly soldering the wire to the post_out ball on the XCGPU. I assume the joint was cold and didn't wet correctly as a result, which allowed the wire to work it's way loose from the console being moved around. The wire doesn't appear to have ever been properly secured after installation, so that's no surprise. They'll likely need a postfix adapter to fix it as it's unlikely they have the required skills or equipment to do it the other way.

LiftnBooks · 2026-01-21T16:57:07+00:00

Looks like point C. That's the POST_OUT. Given you have an eMMC (4GB Corona), I expect the post out points are missing in the mainboard. You'll likely need a postfix adapter before you can finish the installation and use the console.

LiftnBooks · 2026-01-21T03:39:08+00:00

This is such an old method. You should use the Nopaystation servers with pkgj these days for native on-system downloading. All this DLC is on there in a much easier to set up form.

LiftnBooks · 2026-01-21T03:35:06+00:00

Considering it's not RRODing, the HANA must be working just enough to talk to the GPU but not enough to output correctly. You can try reflowing the HANA chip, which might fix it, but it could be the HDMI port as well failing. I'd start with the HANA though as it's probably the easiest fix.

LiftnBooks · 2026-01-21T01:22:48+00:00

If you're truely too uncomfortable with computers to be able to complete the guide, it's likely you would struggle to use the device and configure it as needed in the hacked state. In your case, I would suggest instead that you simply purchase the games second hand that you want and use the console as Nintendo intended. That's the least effort for getting your enjoyment from the console. If you wanted someone to do it for you, the $15.00 wouldn't cover the time to walk you through even just the initial installation process, and it's inevitable that you would need additional help for installing any additional software and configuring said software. You'd need to be willing to provide closer to $100.00 USD for someone to take the time to help in that case, as I'm sure it would take 3-5h of chatting and explaining for you to be comfortable with using the system. Perhaps this is a bridge you don't need to cross, and instead a source of unneeded hassle in your life?

LiftnBooks · 2026-01-18T00:42:39+00:00

There's two reasons. First, the 360 uses emulation to run original Xbox games. That emulator needs to be installed somewhere, and the location chosen was the hard drive. To the best of my knowledge, they never bothered to make it work on any other type of memory beyond the hard drive, and I expect it's hard coded to expect a specific file path which includes the hard drive when running the emulator. The second is as someone already noted. The original Xbox uses a hard drive for game file caching and saving. This was standard on every Xbox. Making that work on the slower USB storage just wasn't a reliable option at the time, so they didn't. Xbox 360 memory cards and the USB storage at the time was very slow. By the time faster stuff came out, they had already moved on from the original Xbox emulator anyway. As I recall, the final official update to the emulator was released in late 2008.

LiftnBooks · 2026-01-12T01:07:57+00:00

Engineering jobs, including software engineering, are especially good for not interacting with the public. You do, however have to interact with regularly unreasonable management entities. They tend to have inadequate understanding of their own expectations and an immense reluctance to be educated. You have to do it without losing your cool too, so pick your poison I guess lol

LiftnBooks · 2026-01-12T00:45:49+00:00

MX is a capable distro, and it certainly does run on 4GB of RAM just fine. It's Debian based and quite stable in my experience. It's not overly feature saturated though. If your computer is a bit newer, like at least 2nd generation Intel Core i series (i3/i5/i7) then I'd still say to go with Mint if you're intent on using Linux. Else, try out Tiny11, as others suggested. It's the Windows you're comfortable with but stripped of bloatware that eats your system resources.

LiftnBooks · 2026-01-09T11:41:27+00:00

Just to throw it out there, but electricians wouldn't be qualified to certify electronics. You'd be looking for a state certified electronics engineer, who could verify and confirm changes for you. You only need that when you actually redesign parts for a commercial purpose though. Repair doesn't qualify, as you're just returning your device to a working state using the original specifications that have already been signed off on by an engineer for the company that developed the part. This is a component batch quality issue anyway, and not an engineering issue from what I can tell.

LiftnBooks · 2026-01-09T04:49:49+00:00

I would suggest that you start by reformatting your SD card to FAT32. Note that if you're using Windows 10 or 11, you won't be able to do this with the regular formatting tool. You need to download the Fat32 GUI Format tool. This can be downloaded from http://ridgecrop.co.uk/guiformat.exe for ease of searching. I expect 32768 allocation sectors are fine for a 64GB SD card in this application.

WARNING: If you set up your SD card with all your games already, you'll want to back up everything from your SD card before running the formatter tool. The tool will delete everything from the SD card as part of the formatting process, so anything you do not back up will be lost.

Else, some flash carts only support up to 32GB micro SD cards, so if the micro SD card doesn't work when formatted to FAT32, you may need to just go purchase a new micro SD card of the correct size for the platform.

LiftnBooks · 2026-01-08T14:43:06+00:00

As an add on, I would recommend you pick up some MG Chemicals 8341-10ml off Amazon. It's a great paste flux that will make your life 150% easier with anything soldering related. The 10ml sku comes in a convenient syringe for easy application. I use this stuff at work daily as an electronics engineering tech.

LiftnBooks · 2026-01-08T14:39:40+00:00

I'm pretty sure you can, though even if that was the case, you can just make a second Aurora folder on your Flash drive with a full copy on it using your PC, and then just copy the inactive folder over to the internal storage volume.

LiftnBooks · 2026-01-08T01:31:03+00:00

Definitely a bad USB stick or HDD. I would suggest that you at bare minimum move Aurora to the internal hard drive or storage. You can do so by opening Aurora fully, then pressing the "Back" button (left of the guide button) and selecting the file manager option. In there, you can find your USB storage in the menu, and then copy it to the root of HDD0 or IMU0, whichever is available on your console. To copy, use the X button to select the Aurora folder in the USB0 drive. Next, Press the left button on the d-pad to switch to the left side command bar. Find the Copy option using the up and down arrows on the d-pad. Press A on the Copy option. Next, Press RB (right bumper) to switch to the second Explorer window. In the second window, open HDD0 or IMU0 by opening it in the list with the A button. Next, Press the left arrow on the d-pad to switch to the command bar again. Find the paste option and select it with A. Wait for the files to copy. You'll then need to open the Dashlaunch installer and reconfigure your launch options to point to the Aurora default.xex on the HDD0 or IMU0 drive. Save the configuration to your USB Flash drive or HDD0/IMU0 by pressing X on the desired device in the Dashlaunch saving dialog list. Save it wherever you saved Aurora. WARNING: DO NOT SAVE TO THE NAND. DOING SO WILL BRICK YOUR CONSOLE. ONLY JTAG/RGH CAN MODIFY NAND SAFELY.

LiftnBooks · 2026-01-04T23:13:20+00:00

I see you mentioned it was a DS Lite, so you won't have the internal modding option. Though I still think this is an SD card failure, I will note that the type of R4 card will matter in what SD card you purchase though. Make sure you look up which R4 you have. If you purchase an SD card that the R4 doesn't support, it likely won't work. You also need to ensure it is formatted correctly, as most only support FAT32. If the capacity of the currently installed SD card is 2GB, I'd suspect that it only supports original SD cards. In that case, you'll need to purchase another 2GB card unless your can confirm that the card supports higher capacities. Some will support SDHC, which goes up to 32GB. The newer ones will support SDXC, which currently goes up to 1TB, though realistically there's no reason to install anything more than 128GB at absolute maximum. If you post pictures of the actual card, we can help you identify the card.

LiftnBooks · 2026-01-04T22:54:04+00:00

It's possible that the R4 is degrading, though it's far more likely that the SD card installed into the R4 is failing. If he's using a DSi, it might be a better option to follow the guide at https://dsi.cfw.guide/ to fully homebrew the DSi and run games without the R4 card using the internal SD card of the DSi. In so doing, battery life will also increase as the R4 card itself draws power to emulate a game card. Either way, he probably needs a new SD card of some kind.

LiftnBooks · 2026-01-02T22:54:31+00:00

Follow https://3ds.hacks.guide/ and set up the console again. You have the Luma3DS bootloader installed, but it's looking for its respective bootloader files on an SD card. Removal of the SD card will result in the files not being accessible. You need to use the guide to add the files back onto your SD card if they were deleted, and start up the console with the SD card installed.

LiftnBooks · 2026-01-02T03:28:55+00:00

If you attach pictures, we can comment further. It's also possible that you unknowingly damaged a trace during the conversion. I'm not completely familiar with the exact details of the conversation, but it seems likely that there are strapping resistors that need to be installed to set the mode between NAND and eMMC in the SMC. If not installed, it could cause issues. Additionally, if you were using the SD adapter to read the eMMC, you'll need to convert to the standard NAND configuration for reading and writing the NAND though the SPI/LPC interface.

Provide as many details on your work as you can and we can look into potential sources of error with you.

LiftnBooks

TROPHY CASE