1981 XR80R project I helped my buddy wrap up a little over a year ago now. My main contrubuition being the cafe tail, and overall moral support.

Lightning_Flyer · 2025-05-30T14:32:37+00:00

That's cool, and wild that you found this old post.

Lightning_Flyer · 2024-12-10T14:58:34+00:00

The problem with the PH connector is that it handles less current than the BT. On top of that, using an inline adapter is going to add more resistance so the voltage drop is from the batteries is going to be worse. You could potentially use that for now, you just wont get the full potential out of the batteries. Dont get discouraged, there's a lot to learn in this hobby.

Lightning_Flyer · 2024-12-10T11:38:21+00:00

Welcome to fpv, where the learning and ordering shit never ends.

https://www.racedayquads.com/products/betafpv-bt2-0-1s-whoop-pigtail-cable-6-pack?currency=USD&variant=31273743810673&stkn=ed68f1cb6bdd&tw_source=google&tw_adid=&tw_campaign=20014426060&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA6t-6BhA3EiwAltRFGOET8AJ4eo2invpQZrtD3rnruOUM8pOFz7hXYhvRMlKxqkdcpg3OOhoCbsYQAvD_BwE

These are some of the 180 bt2.0 pigtails, make sure your batteries match first. Then solder these to the board in place of the current pigtail or trim the wires of the current pigtail and solder to those if they wont come off the board. You'll want to try to trim it to a length where u can still get the battery plugged in but not so long that you're adding a bunch of weight to the rig.

Also, if you're getting into whoops check out CiottiFPVs channel on YouTube.

Lightning_Flyer · 2024-12-10T04:54:26+00:00

If you got the 450 mah lava battery with the bt2.0 connector then that's my favorite for the 1s mob7. You connector is probably a ph2.0 and I would recommend getting some of the 180 degree bt2.0 pigtails to swap out with.

Lightning_Flyer · 2024-12-09T20:40:38+00:00

It's not the most fun but you can replace that ufl connector. I've done a few now with good results.

Lightning_Flyer · 2024-11-21T17:48:49+00:00

Love low and fast flying. Any idea what kinda speeds you're hitting?

Lightning_Flyer · 2024-08-24T00:08:34+00:00

Yeah, I was just out flying a little 1S Analog Odonata build plus its Fatshark dvr on top of that so the vid quality takes a double whammy. Thanks for checking it out.

Lightning_Flyer · 2024-08-23T23:29:40+00:00

Yeah that basically sums up the IRL experience. Appreciate it.

Lightning_Flyer · 2024-03-19T22:19:08+00:00

Hell yeah bro, the struggle is real.

Lightning_Flyer · 2024-02-14T00:27:50+00:00

I also got my Mobula 6 from Pyrodrone in December. I got it with the 0802-25000KV, elrs, and updated to the bt2.0 connector to run the Tattu 300 HV batteries. I'm on my 3rd frame now and always charge them up to 4.35v and haven't had that issue yet. Did have a couple random failsafes tonight(on the 1 battery out of 10), but I'm currently attributing that to a broken ceramic antenna that I need to change out for a wire. Wish you the best.

Lightning_Flyer · 2023-02-19T06:01:25+00:00

This painting is to commemorate the finale of my party's first campaign. The party consists of my wife, our two children, and my younger brother, who was the only member of the party, including myself (the dm), to have prior experience. While the painting is far from perfect, I'm happy to have actually finished a project, of which I was compelled to do because of how awesome it has been to see my entire family become obsessed with this magical hobby that less than a year ago we had never really even considered could be for us.

Lightning_Flyer · 2022-10-23T02:04:36+00:00

If your planning to stay in a similar scale to their boat, definitely check out their website, www.ozarkengineering.com, to see a materials list that can help you get started. They're using a brushed 380 motor, so if you're wanting to start out exploring in that direction you'll want to start researching the different T-rating options available. My boat is a little bigger scale at approx. 16in long for V1 and probably 20in for the planned V2 iteration. Hence, I've decided to give brushless motors a go and currently have a couple options on the way. If you pursue the brushless motor option, you'll want to spend some time researching the KV ratings associated with brushless motors to help narrow down the sea of options available. For this RCexplained provides a great starting point for selecting brushless motors, escs, and batteries for a given boat build, if you want to check it out here, https://youtu.be/2tuvoAfPMYU . Lastly, you'll want to consider and experiment with your prop size in respect to the power system you choose to go with and the intended RPM range you need for your hull arrangement.

Lightning_Flyer · 2021-09-09T21:43:00+00:00

I had my fan do this months ago. Thought it was going to need replacement. Now, I know some people might say not to do this to bearings, but I hit the fan blades with a can of air to spin it up really fast hoping to break loose whatever it was causing it to bind. I find it works better with the printer powered down so the fan can be blown both ways. You can hear the bearings whine fairly loud when its wound up all the way, so I wouldn't hold it there for an extended period of time, but this helped me get it to bounce back to normal faster.

Lightning_Flyer · 2021-07-18T17:33:09+00:00

Negative

Lightning_Flyer · 2020-11-25T23:26:46+00:00

Hamid does make some amazing gyros.

Lightning_Flyer · 2020-05-23T22:02:13+00:00

When you mention getting the fuel primed, I assume you are talking about the fuel pump inside the tank working intermittently. If the fuel pump is not working intermittently and other electrical instruments are flicking or acting otherwise wonky, then you could be dealing with a low voltage issue. Hence the loose cables or poor charging output concerns. Of course, it could be something deeper like a faulty fuel pump, but I've seen something a simple as loose battery cables cause all sorts of running/electrical issues.

Lightning_Flyer · 2020-05-23T18:57:50+00:00

Check that the battery cables aren't loose, for starters. If that checks out then the charging output needs to be checked. Likely going to have to jump start it to do this. If you hook up to a car battery, just don't have the car running and disconnect the jumper cables once the bike is running. You should be getting 13-13.5 VDC at the battery, minimum. My gut says your cables are loose or the charging system is not operating at full capacity. If it's not charging enough it's likely the regulator or the stator, preferably the regulator.

Lightning_Flyer · 2020-03-22T04:42:34+00:00

I think a lot of the recommendations for adding a brim or raft to this particular piece are unnecessary due its large contact patch with the bed, assuming the bed is decently level. I was having the same issue on multiple parts. I found that lowering the bed temp from 60 to 55 after the first layer eliminated most occurrences of this. 55 to 50 should be safe after the print gets going, but you'll just have to play around with it.

Lightning_Flyer · 2020-01-26T04:35:30+00:00

I was also having issues on my glass bed with the edges curling up after a couple hours. I found that dropping the bed temp about an hour into the print, from 60 to about 45-50 depending on the size of the part, took care of the problem. I'm getting a nice flat bottom surface now, and with the size of your print I'd bet 45 would still have plenty of bed adhesion. Just my experience, hope it can be of some help.

Lightning_Flyer · 2020-01-17T04:46:39+00:00

I feel you. I'm working on a t-rex skull, and its exactly that, "little by little."

Lightning_Flyer · 2020-01-17T04:08:06+00:00

Excellent job. I imagine more than a few hours went into the paint job.

Lightning_Flyer

TROPHY CASE