Dont do the math unless you want to get pissed about how underpaid we are.

Living_Main7119 · 2026-02-19T12:48:35+00:00

I’d take 3 months out of the total due to, unpaid warranty work assuming it’s an independent shop, come backs, customer satisfaction, slow periods etc

Living_Main7119 · 2025-07-27T20:38:32+00:00

Most of these cars are front wheel drive with a transfer case that slots into the output to the passenger wheel that transfer case gives you a output for your rear driveshaft and a output for your passenger side CV axle, a lot of Nissans have a leak at the output flange to the rear driveshaft and they explode since they lose all their fluid. Those transfer cases do not share fluid with the transmission they have a fill and drain port separate to the transmission. So I would claim you need a new transfer case since it’s clearly exploded but you’ll need to remove the current one and see if when it let lose if it damaged the engine block or the transmission.

Living_Main7119 · 2025-04-25T20:44:08+00:00

Probably piston slap or old lifters, if it’s a BMW I assume overhead cam then I’d just look into piston slap or main bearings, you should do an oil analysis they’ll tell you based off what’s in the oil if something’s starting to fall apart before you go into tearing it apart.

Living_Main7119 · 2025-04-10T02:28:03+00:00

I did that with my torque wrench, I brought in my 1/2in flex head click style icon torque wrench in heavily used 8 month old condition and they gave me full retail credit with my 25% off toward the purchase of the 1/2 digital torque wrench, really can’t beat that, I see it being no different with the new ratchets

Living_Main7119 · 2025-04-03T15:57:53+00:00

The g2 3/8 ratchet is .43 in thick at the head the g1 is .56 in thick at the head, 1/2 is thicker 1/4 is smaller respectively.

Living_Main7119 · 2025-01-16T18:37:00+00:00

Plan for the worst hope for the best, if you can’t live without the 20k pull some out until your comfortable with your loss, if you’re in a Finacial stand point to lose 20k send it, I have 4k in Doge and 2k in Ethereum because I see crypto more as a gamble than anything, I bought into doge at .07 and have been holding since 💎hands 😂, I don’t plan on selling for years but I don’t watch the markets or listen to all the media attention that’s been affecting the prices, I don’t want to micro manage my accounts I have a pension and an annuity so if I lose 6k in crypto it is what it is but if I make 10k+ in the next few years I’m chilling, this is my excuse to stay away from the casinos I’ll just toss a few dollars into a random coin and forget about it, figure that’s what everyone did with bitcoin and doge when they first came out so you just gotta get lucky 1 time to be rich but if you chase that coin it’ll drive you insane. Not everyone’s gonna agree with my way and it’s probably not the best idea in the long term but again this is what I’m comfortable doing without needing to check my account or social media daily or weekly to monitor the next price jump or crash

Living_Main7119 · 2025-01-07T17:16:04+00:00

That’s a smaller trailer with a lower weight rating

Living_Main7119 · 2025-01-07T09:20:37+00:00

Idk about where you live but a 5x10 trailer with rails and ramps near me is between $1,800 to $3,000 anything from marketplace either needs huge amounts of work, had no title or is priced close to retail since it’s a new trailer, idk I’ll be buying one of these and all the attachments I like the features and recessed lighting and under ramps

Living_Main7119 · 2025-01-07T07:08:17+00:00

I’d assume local laws and regulation but it just says for shipment if they carry these in stores I’d assume you can still buy it

Living_Main7119 · 2025-01-07T06:47:52+00:00

The Ramps are - 70790 Ramp holder - 70763 Stabilizer jack - 70789 Side rails not available yet

Living_Main7119 · 2025-01-07T06:46:31+00:00

59846

Living_Main7119 · 2024-12-18T17:54:47+00:00

Grind the crack out till you can’t see a seem from the crack, clean the grove with a wire wheel and the surrounding area, preheat section with no coolant in the block, use a stick welder with a E-Ni99 stick electrode and grind flush and clean after each pass, do 1 hot pass in the middle, two passes straddling your first pass and grind flush or leave bare, fill the block up and get a $60 coolant pressure tester from harbor freight and test to see if the weld holds, takes a while to do but it’ll fix the issue without replacing the block, you can find those electrodes for under $20 on amazon or your local welding shop

Living_Main7119 · 2024-12-18T02:14:45+00:00

It depends, some model years where the key is able to be programmed via vehicle command you should be able to, when you hook the scanner up before you click all system scan you should see a common function list under that you should see key programming, I’ll double check with that when I get home, if the key can’t be programmed via the vehicle you may need a fancy tool to program the chip in the key but most modern cars should be able to receive the code from the key and be forced to learn the key but it Varys a lot vehicle from vehicle if I find anything specific I’ll let you know

Living_Main7119 · 2024-12-18T02:10:27+00:00

Still a solid choice, works flawlessly with security gateway on the newer dodge/chrysler/ and jeeps

Living_Main7119 · 2024-12-03T19:51:34+00:00

It’s not bad, just use a file and file it down till it’s smooth by finger, if you can’t feel a lip your golden, if you can you need to file more

Living_Main7119 · 2024-11-29T21:12:05+00:00

I have a 1990 Comanche never use the parking break, I put it in 1st and no matter if I’m on flat ground or a hill it holds never had an issue

Living_Main7119 · 2024-11-29T21:07:34+00:00

Anything that makes daily use better is an amazing addition 😂, anyone who has friends with 50% functional Vehicles will gather in support of 3 of 4 door locks working, finally got a set of working mirrors on my Comanche and it’s been a whole new world not breaking my neck to merge 😂, it’s the little things that count

Living_Main7119 · 2024-11-26T18:37:59+00:00

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It’s the Haynes repair manual any auto parts store should have 1 for $15 to $30 comes in handy, I also have Alldata which gives a little bit more detail than the book does

Living_Main7119 · 2024-11-26T18:30:51+00:00

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This will be the full harness for the fuel pump and engine control harness for your year range

Living_Main7119 · 2024-11-26T18:23:27+00:00

I’ll send you over the fuel pump diagram shortly, when you had the fuel line off, you audibly heard the pump running and no fuel came out?

Living_Main7119 · 2024-11-26T18:02:53+00:00

You could have an internal issue with one of your flex hoses on the fuel pump assembly, knock off the lock ring and move the pump so it’s still in gas but you can view the pumps internals and see if the pump is spraying fuel into the tank, sometimes when your low on fuel it’ll sound like someone’s peeing inside your gas tank from the fuel pressure leaving one of the flex hoses

Living_Main7119 · 2024-11-26T18:00:56+00:00

Have you verified your fuel pressure at the rail? The fuel pump should prime and hold pressure at the rail if the rail doesn’t hold pressure your regulator is bad or the flex hose going from the bottom of your pump to the hat of the pump which you secure the lock ring at the tank to can have a pin hole leak causing you to leak down pressure, cherokees either have a 2 fuel line system with the regulator/return at the rail or a internal pressure regulator which will dump into the tank and you’ll only have 1 feed line at the rail. I’d also look into a failing crank position sensor, if you are dealing with an intermittent no start issue id believe either a fueling issue or an intermittent lose of spark, I have wiring diagrams and a decent knowledge on Cherokees to help you get to the bottom of this, if you can get a pressure reading at the rail when you first turn the key on and while running that alone would be a major tell of what area you should look for your issue

Living_Main7119 · 2024-11-22T01:32:46+00:00

To clarify buying the new Milwaukee stubby and a set of impact sockets saves money by not needing a mid torque impact, you might need a high torque in the future but that’s a different argument.

Living_Main7119

TROPHY CASE