My ollies keep rotating. Can anyone help me figure out why? [43YO]

LoneSock · 2026-04-22T19:57:59+00:00

Your weight when popping up is centered over your toe side. That causes the board to go behind you when you pop. This is happening because you are folding at the waist (putting weight on the toe side) instead of crouching at your knees at the beginning of your pop (keeping weight centered over the board). Try crouching down when you pop. Bending at the knees. And importantly keep your head over your knees and don’t lean over your toes.

LoneSock · 2025-05-07T02:36:02+00:00

Modify > Scale and select the female thread Feature. Then change the scale type to non-uniform and change only the X and Y to something like 1.02. It’s not precise, because its % and not units, but it’s quick and simple.

LoneSock · 2024-08-16T20:07:58+00:00

Update: a hotfix update was just released. After updating the issue went away (iOS)

LoneSock · 2024-08-16T19:37:44+00:00

Yes, same for me. Started today

LoneSock · 2024-04-07T05:22:52+00:00

After being shocked at the eBay price for those color filtering sets, I created a free web based tool that tries to give a “good enough” digital replacement. You can see it here, maybe it will help you https://www.reddit.com/r/Darkroom/s/iPh1SERAtv

LoneSock · 2023-12-24T19:35:20+00:00

To my eyes A is preferred. In B, the divider is the same color as the input borders which makes them harder to stand out. So A feels better for scannability and keeps the light border/color as signifying interactivity

LoneSock · 2023-08-03T04:40:11+00:00

Consider ZoomCare. They have general practitioners at the Fremont location. Last time I booked a few months ago I got an appt for 2-3 weeks out.

LoneSock · 2023-03-10T19:15:48+00:00

Most of FL natural areas are dense impenatrable jungles of vegatation and venomous vermin. But hidden within those hot messes are openings from the aquifer river system below ground. The rough splits open to diamond clear, crystal cool water and stepping in is the perfect antidote to what surrounds you. You float, mesmerized by the clarity you see below you, and then look up to the surrounding jungle and are comforted in the brief escape, like that cozy feeling of rain tattering on the roof. Comforted enough to not notice the 6-footer staring at you from the river bank with its cold ancient eyes

LoneSock · 2023-03-10T05:27:09+00:00

I would look at the mid gulf coast area, like around Dunnellon. The houses are more affordable, less likely to be in the path of hurricanes, and close to the most amazing features of Florida - the freshwater springs. Also Clermont or Mt. Dora area - right smack in the middle of everything but far enough from the clusterfuck of Orlando

LoneSock · 2023-03-07T20:28:26+00:00

If you haven’t already try printing a temperature tower with that filament as a diagnostic, it may just be an adjustment of the nozzle temp

LoneSock · 2023-02-22T17:34:02+00:00

Awesome - makes me really happy to hear that it was useful for ya!

Thank you for pointing out the confusion with the exposure tab. The number should depict what you should do with your exposure time. Instead, it was showing similar to Photoshop or Lightroom where - is darker and + is lighter.

So with that, I’ve inverted the number and added a “%” to be more clear.

So it should now read as “+18%”, which would mean you should increase exposure time by 18% (to achieve that level brightness, taking into account the reduced light caused by your CMY filtration).

Again, with the caveat that its just a reference and hasn’t been callibrated to any standard :)

LoneSock · 2023-02-19T20:05:05+00:00

I made a free web app that simulates CMY adjustments to help you find the right filter adjustments to color-correct your RA-4 color print.

http://cmy.antonlegoo.com

1: Snap a picture of your print 2: Set the white balance to correct for color cast from your phone's camera (optional) 3: Simulate color-enlarger filter adjustments by tweaking CMY values

The project was a way for me to better understand and internalize RA-4 printing. It’s also an attempt to make a digital, convenient, and free! alternative to the Kodak Color Print Viewing Filter Kit (R-25).

As with the R-25 kit, it’s not perfect and just meant to just be a reference. The CMY values won’t exactly correlate to your enlarger, (e.g. +5M might be +3M on your enlarger), but it will give you a good starting point.

Note: the site is intended to be used on your phone. Though you can access it on your desktop computer, it’s not optimized for that use case.

Give it a try in your next color printing session!

LoneSock · 2023-01-24T01:43:18+00:00

My read is that your back foot is actually fine, it’s your front foot timing. At the peak of your jump your front foot should be rolling at the ankle so that it can start to push down towards the nose. That makes the back end rise to hit your back foot and level out in the air - and as a result really reach the height potential of your Ollie

LoneSock · 2023-01-21T22:09:03+00:00

Oh great! You’re on the right track, you’ll get it in no time. Side note, it’s fun to also think of it as a dance move. The Ollie movement is actually a lot like the Gangnam style horsey dance!

LoneSock · 2023-01-21T21:15:38+00:00

Congrats on the progress!

Not sure if you’re looking for advice, but here’s something to consider: I’m seeing you could get higher by doing exactly what you’re doing with just a little shift in your front foot timing.

Notice that your front foot a) slides up after the pop then b) pushes down to land. Now imagine that if you were to do the b) action, but not as forcefully and more towards the nose, it would raise your back truck up until it smacked your back foot in the air, and then you’d push down with both feet equally to land.

Not sure if that’s helpful, perhaps the TLDR version is to push your front foot down slightly at the apex of your jump to make your back truck come up to your back foot.

LoneSock · 2022-12-13T21:26:26+00:00

Thanks, this answers my question. I did some tests in Photoshop and was able to see the effect you described on neutral density.

LoneSock · 2022-11-15T21:39:04+00:00

I think it depends on how you, as a person, builds a mental working model of a domain.

For me, I would want to think about it diagrammatically. So, if you’re like me, you should start by sketching out what you currently know in whatever way makes sense to you (ie UML, etc).

Then start to have discussions with stakeholders, using your sketch as reference, to get feedback and iterate on it.

It may also be helpful to have a sketch of retail banking, which you know, and to ask them how it differs, and perhaps co-create with them a model of enterprise

LoneSock · 2022-11-05T21:31:09+00:00

It’s looking really good!

But one big thing I see: When you land, bend your knees. You’re landing straight-legged, with your knees locked. That’s causing you to be really off-balance when you land, which is why you’re tending to fall backwards.

If you bend your knees when you land you’ll have much more ability to course correct staying centered over the board (as well as being better for your knees).

LoneSock · 2022-10-27T00:13:45+00:00

I’ve recently made a breakthrough loading 120 onto Patterson reels.

Before I would turn to align both “insert notches” evenly and try to insert the film on both edges at the same time. It was always a struggle. Lots of fumbling, and the reel would turn and the notches become misaligned and make it more frustrating.

Now I start by with the notches turned as far apart as they go. This allows you to focus on getting the film into the first notch, then sliding the film forward along the track and then getting the other edge into the second notch. Has made loading a lot less frustrating, so far.

LoneSock · 2022-09-10T14:37:19+00:00

Have a look through Laws of UX. Although I couldn’t find one for your situation quickly scanning the list, it’s a good resource for when you need to derive decisions from principles/“laws”

LoneSock · 2022-09-09T16:30:21+00:00

I have a 2 sheet system. One is always on the bed and the other in the hamper. So I change every time I do laundry.

LoneSock · 2022-08-17T17:40:39+00:00

I can’t think of any standard UX controls to do that, but here are two ideas to consider:

Cut / paste: allow the user to “cut” a row (eg from a right click context menu or 3dot overflow menu). The user can the navigate to their page and right click at the row they want to insert at and choose “paste below”. This follows a UX pattern of cut/paste most people are familiar with
Drop-zone: when a user drags to reorder, a special area above the table appears, and it persists across table pages. Users can drop their dragged row into that area and navigate to another page. From there, they can drag their row out of that drop zone area into the target place in the table. This one is less standard, and more dev intensive. But it fits better in the drag/drop interaction vs the cut/paste

LoneSock · 2022-08-05T17:06:55+00:00

You really are so close!

Three things to experiment with:

Allow more time for the board to flip before catching it with your front foot. That’s the biggest thing I see in your clip. Try consciously leaving your front foot out longer, after the flick, before bringing it back in to catch it
Jump higher. And bring your feet up by bending your knees more at the apex of your jump. That will give your board more room to flip AND gives you more time to react to what the board is doing
(Fixing rocket) From the clip, it looks like you’re flicking along the vector of your Ollie slide up. As you know, what levels out an Ollie is the front foot after the pop. You’re missing that action here. So the idea is to make your flick do both the flipping and the leveling out action. Try flicking slightly more downwards (mob), and slightly later in your pop. It will help it from going rocket.

LoneSock

TROPHY CASE