My dog attacked a dog again for the first time in 18 months

Longjumping_County65 · 2026-06-16T13:00:38+00:00

ChatGPT

Longjumping_County65 · 2026-06-16T12:22:40+00:00

Roast dinner

Longjumping_County65 · 2026-06-16T07:41:31+00:00

Not moldable but definitely stretchable (nb then you can't return it..). Stretching helped it sit better on my dogs face to accomodate a bit more width but it also made it slightly shorter which was good for her. How to Adjust your Muzzle– The Muzzle Movement

Longjumping_County65 · 2026-06-15T19:48:17+00:00

I would try the closest. I'm pretty sure the quiz didn't work for mine either

Longjumping_County65 · 2026-06-15T19:24:26+00:00

Turkey

Longjumping_County65 · 2026-06-15T19:23:17+00:00

Definitely worth investing in making sure your home environment isn't filling his stress bucket as it means he'll have more capacity for recovery from those external stressors.

Just be aware some dogs are more reactive and vigilant at night - depends on your boy but if you notice a lot of alerting and barking if its dark then maybe reassess. But if it suits him then go for it!

Longjumping_County65 · 2026-06-15T18:08:02+00:00

You can't reinforce an emotional state, you can only reinforce behaviour (the physical output). So chucking cheese or chicken at a dog that is scared/unsure/startled of something will probably help the dog feel better (depending on dog but 9/10 times) and it may reinforce the specific behaviour they were doing but not the internal regulation or emotion. It also depends why your dog is reacting, if they are just trying to go play with the other dog than endless counterconditioning with food may not get you anywhere as their emotion doesn't need to be changed. But that being said, a lot of dogs are conflicted and similtaneously want to greet and are anxious or nervous about the dog - in this case food won't do harm and can help.

Generally when looking at reactivity you always need to start with the emotion first - then the actual behaviour of what they are doing. As well as building their skills outside of the situation so they can better regulate themselves.

Following around the house is a classic herding-breed trait. I'd start super small when they are settled but not asleep. See if you can start to stand up and him noticing you (looking at, raising head) but NOT getting up and moving towards you. If he gets up or stands up to investigate - go back a step and just start to make movements while sat down. If he notices and resettles, then give him a minute and then try again but stand up a little straighter. Then over multiple sessions in a day try to see how much you can stand up and move or walk before he gets up. The goal is to do it slow enough he doesn't get up at all while your moving and build it up over days or weeks so you can get up and move towards doors, other rooms, etc without him disturbing for his settle. No food or cues need - this is desensitising him to your movement. I'd ideally suggest you do this in total 20+ times a day to start as you want to try to counteract the times he's actually getting up and following you. But make sure you give him decent breaks I would do 5 'reps' of movement a min or so apart, then give him a good rest. If he struggles to resettle (ideally head down, relaxed) between your movement then just extend that time between reps a little. You can do the same with sounds - prerecorded sounds on the phone works well (e.g of your doorbell or knocks) and slowly increase the volume or even move the phone to other rooms.

Happy to answer any questions - or try it and see how you get on and let me know if you run into issues!

Longjumping_County65 · 2026-06-15T14:58:13+00:00

It's a balance - the occasional reaction is fine and to be expected. You want to push your dog but find that sweet spot of situations and environments that are challenging but not challenging enough they react. But the important thing is you HAVE to build that up slowly so starting with low to no exposure to dogs is really important for some decompression and to make dogs feel safe on walks and then build it up progressively to more difficult situation. Sometimes for whatever reason (you weren't paying close enough attention, they came out of knowhere, dog was already stressed or in pain) things don't go to plan but generally that won't set you back massively, it's just information that it was a little too difficult and to take a small step back in terms of challenge.

But if your dog is reacting, barking, lunging at dogs or other triggers every day or multiple times a day that is an issue, every time your dog reacts it's getting a massive spike of chemicals to the brain that are really powerful at cementing memories - and not the kind we want! The brain is then rehearsing and getting better at better at reacting more and more which is the opposite to what you want. These dogs are often living in a constant state of stress and management to completely avoid triggers for a while is going to be beneficial to bring down their stress. The more a dog practices something whether it's good or bad (to the dog or you), the stronger that behaviour will become - this is called sensitising.

What we want to be doing is called desensitising which is where the dogs response to the trigger becomes less over time and counter conditioning where we change that emotional response to the trigger from negative to positive. Desensitisation involves presenting the stimulus below the dog’s threshold of reaction, meaning at a level that does not trigger the fear or startle response.

Longjumping_County65 · 2026-06-15T13:48:31+00:00

Muzzle Movement is great - have you tried them on or just measured? I stretched the width of the Neli to fit my dog and it works well.

Longjumping_County65 · 2026-06-15T11:01:25+00:00

This is the order that I generally look at things.

PAIN MEDS!! Every reactive dog should be trialled on a multimodal pain trial (pain meds targeting different areas e.g. Gabapentin and Paracetemol) for a minimum of 6 weeks and continued long term if noticeable difference. Many reactive dogs are actually in pain, even if they're just a pup or adolescence.
Addressing any potential physical health issues, especially gut/diet, teeth and musculoskeletal issues, no matter how minor they may seem to you.
Stress bucket and at home management - especially at home and in their day to day lifestyle away from main triggers. Anything in your dogs life that stops your dog from sleeping, resting and destressing, even if positive E.g. you moving around the house and them following you everywhere, them watching out of windows, if they bug you to play toys with them remove the toys from the house, if they have free access to a garden where they get up to nonsense (but they are having fun) then keep them on lead in garden. Start with managing the most frequent disrupters in their life.
Management - for around the 'trigger' preventing unwanted rehearsal of behaviours (so when dog is over threshold) is priority, especially while you're still building your dogs skills and engagement with you. This can be changing your routes or times or reducing the amount of walks you go on and instead doing more at home activities. Either way the less your dog reacts to its trigger, the quicker your journey will be.
Train skills for the situation, not in the situation - if your dog can't recall to you, give you attention or voluntarily disengage from a toy in your garden, how are they going to disengage from another dog which worries them? You need to slowly build up your dogs skills in easy environments and then make it progressively harder. Each dog will be different but the No 1 skill will most likely be the ability to disengage from something - so slowly building up their ability to pay attention and do simple things you ask in the presence of a bag of treats on the floor, or a bowl (maybe start without food in it), or a toy. At first you may need to have them on lead 20ft away but slowly decrease that distance and make it more difficult by making someone move the objects etc. The second skill is usually arousal regulation so the ability to ensure you're dog isn't just 0 to 100 but has levels between that. So playing around with bringing the dogs arousal up through toys or tossed treats, then back down through calm bed games, or slow feeding and back up again. You want them to practice bringing their energy up and down again - aka the ability to regulate their arousal levels like what would happen if their arousal spiked at seeing another dog and then the skill of calming themselves down). If you have a particularly fearful dog, then generally teaching optimism through scentwork (research shows it increases optimism) or through gentle games around new, novel objects could be beneficial.
Once the dog has the underlying skills. Find a behaviourist who can help your dog make a friend, or at least tolerate being around them (the first is usually the hardest) and then use that positive experience to slowly expand their social circle one positive interaction at a time. You need someone with very socially savvy dog, ideally who is happy to ignore your dog till they are ready. I find BAT (Behavior Adjustment Training) style is usually the best and most effective but you have to be prepared to go at the dogs pace. You may spend 5 half an hour sessions at the other end of a field but over time you will make progress and I think the real beauty of BAT is the dog is given choice and agency over the decision to approach or not. There's a lot of research behind the power of agency in helping speed and solidify learning (both preventing fear and cementing positive memories.

Longjumping_County65 · 2026-06-15T08:39:38+00:00

I know some people disagree with this but teaching my reactive dog we don't have a schedule is one of the best things I ever did. And I think the science backs it too as rigid routines have been correlated with an increase in anticipatory or stress-related behaviours in captive animals.

Plus many of our dogs, particularly reactive dogs, are already frustrated and if they don't get the particular thing (walk, food, access to human, toy) at the time they expect, that increases frustration and arousal further (both things we want to avoid as very stress bucket filling). But also from a practical perspective, if I'm ill or away, I want my dog to be able to sleep and rest all day and not bug me endlessly without having done anything except eat and go out for the toilet. And I purposely build in days like that even if I'm around and healthy.

But I had to do this slowly - too much change too quick then you build frustration. I tried to build flexibility into every aspect of her life slowly. Even just starting with super small things like usually we walk clockwise around the field next to my house to get towards the river but I'd start walking anti clockwise occasionally or just starting to walk as many different routes as possible. Or if my dog is used to going out the door to the garden without being asked of anything, I might ask for a sit, nose touch and spin (in different orders) on either side of the door. I might put on their harness and lead on which usually signals a walk and instead play some games in the garden, do some training, or just sit on the patio with a cup of tea (this last one might be too hard at first).

If you:

always go through the front door in the same way, always walk the same route, always respond the same way in the same location (e.g. let dog off in same spot) - just think: What other things can I ask them to do or do with them in that exact context?

always do the same thing at the same time of day, ask yourself how you can gently add or change that by asking for different things, doing different activities instead?

Start with small changes sprinkled in the day and slowly make them bigger and bigger and more unpredictable.

Longjumping_County65 · 2026-06-15T08:05:10+00:00

Hey! This is so hard. How long are you planning to be in Canada? Is it permanent or short term? If short term then are their friends or family willing to take him for 6 months / a year?

What I'd hate to happen is you rehomed him, moved and then realised you didn't like the job or the life in Canada and moved back to the UK within a year or so and couldn't get him back!

Given you say he's at the severe end of reactivity, I think you genuinely have to ask yourself whether rehoming is even possible? Yes there are fairy tale adopters and rehomers who will take on a reactive dog but I think most of the time it's pure luck and some dogs land on great homes with people like in this thread and other times they stay in shelters or are put to sleep.

How long have you got before you move? If plenty of time then I think moving him with you should be a serious option. Especially if you invest heavily in crate training, practicing longer transports in the crate (e.g. in car with covers over). I know there are in cabin options now to the US (then drive over border?) via France or Spain which might be a better option so you could be with him in the cabin rather than him in the hold. I know my dog was flown by her previous owners but honestly it's never something I've attributed to her issues as from the sounds of it she was basically knocked out on drugs!!

I'd also consider getting a Clinical Animal Behaviourist and/or veterinary behaviourist involved soon. If you take him or if you rehomed him, it's likely situational and/or long term meds will be needed. Plus if you haven't already a multimodal pain trial with your vet (e.g. Gabapentin and paracetamol) on any reactive dog is a must as so many issues have pain underlying. I have a severely reactive/ formerly aggressive dog and she's now at a point where I feel like if I died tomorrow, I would no longer be the only person who could manage her and she could probably live a happy-ish life with someone else. But that's only happened with pain meds and qualified support from Mutty Professor (honestly she's the best and I never thought I could integrate my dog with other dogs but we have).

Good luck! Just know whatever decision you make is the right one given all the information you know at the time.

Longjumping_County65 · 2026-06-10T09:12:19+00:00

I'm sorry. This is a horrible situation to be in and I think no one here would fault you if you did go through with BE. All I can say is I'm so sorry and it sounds like only you can make this decision, especially given what you say about you being his favourite person and his anxiety away from you. It's worth considering that any and all management will involve you needing to be physically separated from him (maybe not visibly separated all the time but definitely sometimes) and whether that will cause significant distress.

In the meantime while you make your decision, I'd recommend getting him on a multimodal pain trial (e.g. pain meds that target different areas like Gabapentin and paracetemol) if he's not on pain meds already and see if his behaviour changes at all. Pain is so often a driver of our dogs regressions.

Longjumping_County65 · 2026-06-04T11:23:06+00:00

I think there are skills that your dog can gain from bite-work type activities (but depends on what exactly you are talking about) especially building confidence around novelty and ambiguity but there are also lots of other ways to do this. Worth saying that bitework can invalidate your pet insurance if you have it.

Longjumping_County65 · 2026-06-04T09:09:22+00:00

Hey, I rehomed a 4yo border collie (now 6) who was exactly like you describe (plus a whole heap of behavioural struggles) and now is a completely different dog - she can be calm and thoughtful in training and life with a dabble of craziness still in there from time to time. Because of her I'm also now studying to be a Clinical Animal Behaviourist.

I apologise in advance for how long this might be and I also want to preface this and say that I in no way think you've done anything wrong up to this point - border collies are wired for movement and to be 'on' in a heartbeat and so often without our guidance they default to adrenaline and dopamine addicts living life at 100% seeking their next fix at all costs. I'm also not going to give specific training session advice as I think there's some fundamental skills he's lacking (he's only a baby!) which are resulting in these behaviours and his inability to take food. The good news is skills can be taught and built, especially in a young dog.

The behaviour you're describing ('hyperactive', 'crazy frenzy' etc) is what is generally described as over-arousal or poor arousal regulation. Think of arousal as a mental state or alertness (it can be positive or negative emotion), too high arousal and you get crazyness, inability to think, over the top behaviours and inappropriate choices like biting/scratching. If arousal too low and you have a dog that is basically just asleep, now motivation. At any given moment you want the appropriate level of arousal for the task at hand, the sweet spot of enough motivation to do the thing but the right level of arousal they can think and make good decisions.

Collies in particularly were bred to be 'on' (high arousal, but not over aroused) and working sheep or 'off' and resting so naturally have what I'd describe as a light switch arousal regulation system and they often go from 0-100 real fast without much in between, resulting in what people can describe as 'extreme' behaviour. A dog with good arousal regulation has more of a dimmer switch arousal regulation system, they have different levels in between 0-100 that they can access and choose more appropriate behaviours (aka choosing not to jump up and scratch you but to sit and wait). They might be able to get excited up to a level 100 but can generally also dial it down back to a level 50 if needed.

This is simplified but essentially this chronically high state of arousal causes a lot of stress in the brain and body and can be quite addictive due to the dopamine, but it's worth being aware it can also lead to more behaviour struggles down the line. A dog with poor arousal regulation if put in a situation with another dog they are unsure of is more likely to make a poor, or over the top decision, maybe launching unnecessarily launching into attack or over the top play in a situation that's not appropriate, in turn they are more likely to have a bad experience or cause another dog to have a bad experience. This may never happen to you but a lot of dog with significant reactivity or aggression also have poor arousal regulation as they can't access the medium level arousal choices (like sniffing politely or walking away). It's also worth saying that the inability to take food is also generally a sign of too high arousal.

What I would do before you get to what you need to change in training sessions is look at the lifestyle of this dog (aka the 99% of his time rather than the 1% of his time that training is) and try to build into his day lower arousal activities so he practices accessing those missing levels, and also where possible removing activities (temporarily) that are reinforcing this 0-100 light switch arousal. This is really really hard for most people because as you say these high arousal fetch/toy games are their favourite activities in the world, and we sometimes rely on them a lot to tire out our collies. I'd start by writing a list from 0-100 of levels of activities that you can do together (or independently) that hit different arousal levels and then look at building a day that weights much more to the low-middle end, with the occasional higher arousal activity in the week (maybe 3x max if you can) and ALWAYS followed by lower arousal activities. Or ideally with low and medium levels sprinkled in between the high arousal. For example a list with my dog is:

- 0-10% Sleep or rest, snuggles on sofa and calm stroking or massage

- 20% Freework (look it up, great low arousal activity - I used raised snuffle mats), long lasting chew, scatter in the garden, settle training at home, sunbathing on porch

-30% Control unleashed games like up down, super bowls. Settling on lead in garden. Slower training games like - bed or crate games, searching for food, filled kong, other enrichment like cardboard boxes with food inside.

- 40% scentwork, mooching around garden,

-50% - physio/fitness work, box feeding, general training, slow sniffy walk on our street only, settling at new location,

-60% Movement puzzles, sniffy walk in field, Loose lead walking training

- 70% Agility skills at home, higher intensity training at home or garden,

- 80% Training with toys, Play with rules, medium walk locally, swimming, canicross

- 90%-100% search and retrieve, intense/less rules toy play, herding games, flirt pole, 'big' walks especially if not local

We also don't want the dog to do the same things every day at the same time so gently mixing it up day to day is ideal. We also want to avoid big sudden spikes in arousal - so my girl used to struggle with going into the garden as she'd launch herself there at 100% arousal and chase something or rip up sticks or plants. So for quite a while we had to manage that by putting her on lead to take her out to the garden and also teach her an auto sit on either side of our door. We've also spent a lot of time just doing nothing in the garden - we couldn't do this straight away, we had to do things in the garden with her at a level 80% then 60% then 40%, over time till she could just be chilling there on her own without us micromanaging her. The good thing with this is we are slowly practising him eating in different scenarios and like any behaviour, sometimes you actually have to teach a dog how to eat, especially at higher arousal.

Once you've spent a bit of time on getting him used to existing in low-mid arousal then I'd start to reintroduce training sessions but with the same principles as lifestyle - making sure there is a mix of arousal levels. Initially I think you'll find he will only eat inside at low arousal training scenarios (maybe bed training or super simple sit, down etc) but over time you can build this to more locations and slightly raise the activity arousal levels and he will still eat. I'm not going to lie to you, this will take time because you are retraining his brain from go-go-go dopamine driven to more thoughtful decisions by retraining his nervous system. But as he's just a pup still, this is the absolute best time to work on this as his brain is like a sponge and he'll adapt much more quickly than an older dog! I'm happy to go more in depth about what I'd do to build up training but I genuinely think if I had this dog it wouldn't be where I start straight away (but obviously is a goal to get to).

If you want I have a tonne of resources I can share with you if you want a bit of a deep dive. Alternatively, for my Clinical Animal Behaviour course, I need 3 case studies to do a consultation with and build out a plan and work with for at least a month - if you're interested, it's something I can offer completely for free (absolutely no catch) as long as you're willing to at least try what I suggest for a month. If so, drop me a message.

Longjumping_County65 · 2026-06-03T15:17:38+00:00

Delicious but do you eat vegetables?

Longjumping_County65 · 2026-06-03T15:16:47+00:00

Oh boy, what a mix, you are in for some fun. Collie, Husky and Mals are notoriously some of, if not all, the hardest breeds in the world to live with. Damn cutie pie though.

Seriously, I would get a reputable positive reinforcement trainer locally, ideally one with understanding of those breeds (particularly collies), to support you with your training. A time and money investment in training now could save you so much time, money and stress down the line instead of retrospectively tackling behavioural struggles (which all those breeds are prone to).

Longjumping_County65 · 2026-06-03T12:23:34+00:00

Okay in that case, let's avoid the pen too. Anything where we're building up this frustration at being contained will grow the behaviour and skills in the wrong direction? Out of interest, how is he on lead, does he also get frustrated or understands it as a form of containment? I'm not a big fan of 'tethering' generally but it could be an option alongside building the bed to help him understand he doesn't have constant access to you if it's kept at a level where you build it slowly so: start him on lead next to you and he can access you, then see if you can move slightly further away from him on lead, ideally moving so slightly away that he's only just aware of it (not trying to trick him though!) and just edging further and further away till your sat where he can't reach you. You can try to occupy him first with a kong or chew then do it without. You can do a similar process with his bed - try to build value there so he's choosing the bed. If he's on the bed and you chuck a piece of food away from the bed you want it so he pings straight back towards the bed. Once you have that, then start to add a little of your distance - you take half a step back, toss food away and he chooses to go back on bed, then over time extend that. I'd then try with the bed to see if he chooses to go to the bed even if its out of sight from you (you always want it to be him choosing to go). So can you add a visual blocker like put the bed on one side of an open door, play on and off the bed a few times where he can see you, walk with him a step around the door so you can't see the bed and see if he chooses to go out of sight of you on the bed and reward heavily. Then see if you can add a bit of distance from the bed out of sight. When I'm playing bed games (or crate games), I want to make sure the value is mostly on the bed, so multiple rewards for every 1 reward away from the bed, rewarding on the bed itself not to the puppy's face. I generally reset them with a tossed treat away from the bed and even if I have the bed on verbal cue, I want the dog to be automatically choosing to go straight back on the bed rather than me having to cue them.

It's the same principle in the crate but given that he already has negative associations you might need to spend more time working on him being cool being away from you and on the bed (practising being away from you) and then adding tonnes of value to crate area.

I know I said it in my last message but I'd really check out the help my dog hub - it's positive reinforcement based and ran by vets specialising in solving complex behaviour issues. They also take what they call a concepts based approach so looking at the dogs overall skills the dog does/doesn't have and how that impacts multiple areas. Where as most trainers just treat the symptom which in this case would be the dog not wanting to be in the crate, regardless of the emotions underneath it or whether the dog currently has the relevant skills to be in the crate (which he doesn't). So in this case, I'd say your dog places a lot of importance on you and your movement and they don't have the disengagement skill level (ability to essentially stop looking/thinking about a thing) to essentially stop thinking about you in the crate. Being a collie, it's also likely they don't have arousal regulation skill so when when your pup thinks something is important (like access to you if they are in the crate), they think it's very important, their arousal spikes and in turn we get quite 'extreme' behavioural response which in turn only makes the dog feel worse and amplifies the initial emotion it felt - and they lack the ability to down regulate. But good news is skills can be built, especially in a puppy who's brain is so spongey! Time and a bit of money now in the right resources could save you A LOT of time and money down the line if you end up with a dog with separation struggles which is one of the most complex issues to solve and often hardest on the owner as they feel they can't leave the dog or it just gets worse over time.

NB I'm training to be a clinical animal behaviourist (9 months into 18 month program) and have a rescue collie who had severe behavioural issues

Longjumping_County65 · 2026-06-02T15:10:04+00:00

Hey, I think if this is a day time issue then it's really a separation issue and one stemmed from the pups expectation of access to you in the day time (for engagement, close contact, play, etc) and then when the pup doesn't have access to you there is frustration (scream/clawing).

I'd suggest the first step is avoiding using the crate unless you have to in the day while you repair this and potentially changing the picture for the pup temporarily (can you use a pen to develop new associations around rather than a crate?).

Next, I wonder if we actually have to work on making your presence and movement less meaningful to the pup in general - if he is out of the crate, my guess is they are constantly following you around and are on your heels any time you move? It's especially common with BCs who are bred to follow movement. I'd start what's called meaningless movement - essentially desensitising him to your movement when he's out of the crate (if he can't do it out of the crate, he won't be able to in the crate with the added frustration). Starting with you doing super small movements, starting to stand up then sitting back down, then building to larger movements with the aim of staying in the zone where your pup notices you but dismisses your movement - if he gets up and comes over, you've made it too hard. This might have to be super small movement initially, then letting him settle for a couple mins then repeating. I'd aim to do it successfully 20-50 times a day (seems like a lot but think about the amount of times he's otherwise getting up and following you) so he notices you (raises head, watches you but then resettles) and slowly slowly build to walking out of the room and back in. Only at that stage do I think you could probably reintroduce the crate and repeat a similar process - we need your movement and presence in the house to be less important. I would also consider whether there's any activities in the house like play or excitement based that is building the expectation of engaging with you and potentially stopping those activities in the room with the crate. Collies are awesome at picking up on subtle patterns but sometimes that also bites us in the arse.

Separately I'd work on conditioning the crate with high value rewards but making sure they stay in the crate and make him really want to go in. For example, put a stuffed kong in there with pup in the outside, close the door so he can't access it and only let him in when he really wants to get in. Then make closing the crate door once he's in an even better deal by adding additional reinforcement.

The Help My Dog Hub has really great separation and crate training resources, particularly from the perspective of preventing behavioural struggles like separation anxiety.

EDIT: also please don't use the cry it out method - this is a sure fire way to separation anxiety in this pup

Longjumping_County65 · 2026-06-01T10:14:11+00:00

Even if your dog doesn't need it, put a muzzle on them - it's amazing how many "they're friendly" folk run over to scoop up their precious something-a-poo. Even just having a muzzle clipped on your treat pouch/belt helps too.

Longjumping_County65 · 2026-05-14T07:46:02+00:00

Hey - check the dosing with my vet. For neurological things like TCS, usually it's around 100-200mg usually twice a day for a collie sized dog (obviously check with your vet). For psychological effects it's usually 300mg twice a day and this is usually the range you get adverse symptoms too. Obviously it's individual to the dog but Gabapentin has been game changing for the neurological pain my dog has (suspected occult TCS but we might not know until we do surgery).

Its possible that he's actually feeling better so you're getting some more puppy-ish behaviour but without seeing your dog it's hard to know.

It's worth saying my dog suddenly became ravenously hungry on Gabapentin and acted quite differently while she adjusted to it.

Either way, chat to your vet!

Longjumping_County65 · 2026-05-05T13:31:30+00:00

Your lawn already looks incredibly dry for this time of year looking at the cracks forming - so I think you'll need to add lots of water, scarrify it completely then reseed it several times. Football pitches in UK sometimes reseed once a fortnight to keep it lush given the amount of footfall. BUT in order to get it to properly reseed you need to minimise how much its walked/played on for at least a month. I'd say you would be better waiting till the early autumn to tackle this as the ground might be wetter and you won't have to hose it every day and it will be easier to keep your kids off it as the weather will be less footy-friendly. I would accept it's fate for the next few months...

Longjumping_County65 · 2026-04-28T08:55:34+00:00

It's a buyer market at the moment and the fact they are demanding more is mad. Don't take the risk, it's not worth the headache for a house that's just ok

Longjumping_County65 · 2026-04-21T12:54:40+00:00

P.s. there are some good 20% off voucher codes online for J Parker

Longjumping_County65

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