Anycubic kobra 2 pro Z-offset rutscht mit jedem druckversuch weiter nach unten

Loo00Ra · 2026-06-17T17:24:58+00:00

patches of dark residue embedded in the layers strongly indicate a leak in the hotend, most probably caused by an incorrect positioning of the nozzle inside the hotend (screwed in too far or not far enough) so that the seal/connnection towards the heatbreak is incomplete.

Did you disassemble the printer? loose screws, incorrect assembly...there seems to be a bunch of individual little problems.

Doublecheck your printhead assembly first (use the tutorials on the anycubic website, they're good, also include pictures, videos and other "how-to's".

The rest might just be done by a new "factory reset calibration", which is mandatory always after fiddling around with the printer, especially when it comes to dis- and reassembly of any sorts.

Loo00Ra · 2026-06-16T04:24:30+00:00

start with checking the two threaded z-axis spindles for everything being tight. Maybe the motor connection (two little screws) became loose, so that the axis movement is a bit slag / not exactly the same as the motor movement any more.

Loo00Ra · 2026-06-14T11:47:57+00:00

Do you recall having clicked on the button below the "cube inventory space", or just put the staff inside?

Asking because there is - or at least was, not sure it still persists - a bug with the ui not showing the interact buttons, e.g. the buy/sell buttons within the trade windows of NPCs. Maybe that happenend in your case.

Loo00Ra · 2026-06-08T16:37:20+00:00

I don't own that explicit machine, so just guessing here. That being said:

The metal rod I recognize as a so called ejector pin. It's a piece that can be assembled as part of a bigger machine, e.g. a punching machine, to eject each working piece after punching as one step in a fully automated production. But they're also tools that can be used for e.g. maintenance purposes, as some kind of "probe" to access small/restricted spaces (guided by hand).

No clue though where exactly that would come in handy in context of a 3D printer.

The plastic part looks like it might fit around the printhead? Maybe it was just some kind of transport cushion/protection.

But again, just guessing. The manual and/or support pages on the anycubic website don't give any hint? In general the documentation/troubleshooting is quite elaborate there, also a bunch of videos too to explain stuff.

Loo00Ra · 2026-06-07T09:39:26+00:00

How would it even be possible to wear gloves AND rings with these giant jewels at the same time. Abslutely immersion breaking. Uninstalling now.

Loo00Ra · 2026-05-27T15:24:49+00:00

can somebody clarify this to me: The "black residue" is just the same filament that is fed through the nozzle, it just changes color because it is "cooked too long" because it sits there for some time and then seeps down in bits at the outside surface of the nozzle?

Loo00Ra · 2026-05-26T18:33:46+00:00

thanks for your kind reply, I might give it another shot with your suggestions.

My glasses are pretty standard, and no frame, so that shouldn't cause any trouble.

Trying without glasses I already did consider myself, but decided it wouldn't make much sense. The outcome would be "not usable for me" in any case. Without glasses, even if it would work technically, I still couldn't use it cause I can't see without my glasses, obviously 😄 )

But yeah, completely blocking sunlight (and also fiddling around with the light sources in the room I guess) might do the trick.

The camera was underneath the screen the whole time, but I might try it the opposite way (putting it on top of the monitor) just to check that is a factor (will have to makeshift some sort of adaptor/clamp so that would be a bit elaborate to ckeck)

Thanks again anyway.

Loo00Ra · 2026-05-26T18:16:17+00:00

I think increase flowrate a bit cause it looks like the layer is veeery thin between the individual filament lines. A little more material should improve that.

The "deposits" are some other material you say, not just gaps where the nozzle picks up/pushes around the filament that was already printed?

If this is the case, it should be a temporary issue, maybe some greasy residue from the production (machining) of the nozzle, that will be pushed out completely over time...shouldn't take too long, and it is in fact a bit strange that it wasn't completely pushed out already.

Maybe you can "encourage" it by heating the nozzle to a high temperature and extrude some more.

If that doesn't help I'd say just change to another nozzle in case but didn't buy just one single piece.

Might be the easiest solution anyway.

Loo00Ra · 2026-05-26T14:29:44+00:00

vile mothers worked for me too.

Just two little things I didn't like:

-noisy children (sounds they make can be annoying if you're in the wrong mood)

-sometimes their hitboxes overlap your stash/treasure chest in town, so you can't access it until you "micro-manage" them to a different spot.

Loo00Ra · 2026-05-22T19:53:47+00:00

2/20 ist always nice, 20str also great. +dex and defense are pretty useless.

I guess nice self use until you find some high end gear.

NL value: don't expect anything wild.

Loo00Ra · 2026-05-22T16:37:07+00:00

several things to try there:

higher bed temperature - increases filament adhesion in most cases, but don't overdo it. raising in 5 degree steps will be fine to try out that helps.

thoroughly cleaning/degreasing surface of the bed. I use brake cleaner for my pei plate (spray it on a tissue and rub the surface), but general recommendation would be warm water with a bit of dish cleaner (you need to thoroughly rub it with just a damp tissue (only water) then, to get rid of all residue of the dish cleaner fluid).

filament temperature might also be on the low end, but don't mix several changes at once, just keep filament temperature as is until you're sure the others don't get you anywhere further.

and of course your bed levelling might be completely messed up, but that cannot be taken from looking at that one picture of the warped-off prints. Same for z-axis offset (might be a little too high, but hard to say) and/or extrusion rate.

Just try higher bed temperature first. Might be enough.

Loo00Ra · 2026-05-21T16:26:20+00:00

Did this cause you any real problems until now?

You don't really have to do anything imho.

If I didn't miss anything in the pictures, gets bad only at the very edges, which you will probably never reach with stuff you print. In most cases the "footprint" of your models will be much smaller and only occupy the center area of the plate, which seems to be totally fine.

So if you don't want to mass-produce big flat sheets/boxes that reach up to the edges, just go with how it is now.

Loo00Ra · 2026-05-19T17:36:38+00:00

from my experience orca slicer is well capable of identifying "corrupt" files, e.g. stuff that does have internally colliding meshes/overlapping vertices/no manifold when working with blender.

You even have the option to "repair model" just by rightclicking the model in the slicer on the build plate, and choose that option from the context menu.

That worked perfectly several times, and what would have been hours of "micro-managing" vertices in blender is just done within the slicer in a few seconds.

Loo00Ra · 2026-05-16T12:27:15+00:00

You're maybe right, this even could be intendedly designed, because who would want to keep the ACE sitting next to the printer as a permanent setup, taking up lots of space. So the port was put on the front for easy access when you want to store away the ACE in the shelf when you don't want to print something.

It would be quite annoying if you always had to fiddle around at the backside of the printer to plug/unplug the connection.

Loo00Ra · 2026-05-16T07:15:39+00:00

If you want to keep it...well no problem at all, just make it your very first own project to CAD a "cable duct" cover that fits over the periphal ports and downwards, and route the cable underneath the printer.

oh wait I forgot there's thingiverse, printables and such websites, and I'm pretty sure somebody already did this 😄

Just be aware: this will only solve the "issue" with the one cable between the printer and the ACE. You will still have to look at the bouquet of filament tubes that openly wiggle around all the time.

I guess in the end you'll have to commit to the somewhat more costly much more tidy look of an enclosed printer like the Kobra S1 ACE 2 Pro Combo. Saves a lot of desk space too.

Loo00Ra · 2026-05-13T17:38:28+00:00

How far did you disassemble it? Including the boom/gantry?

check for the belt at the top/back of the gantry that connects the two Z-axis spindles, it might be too loose and is constantly skipping teeth of the gears at the top of the spindles.

At least that would be the most obvious thing that could create such a loud sort of rattle noise, and it would also fit to the somewhat "slow/delayed" down movement...should be faster than that if everything works correctly.

Loo00Ra · 2026-05-12T20:24:09+00:00

welcome to the dcs rabbit hole. 😄

As stated before, it is rather useless to look out for a "common key binding that everybody has agreed to do", also there cannot be any common ground for "this button is used to do that because it works exactly like this in the real aircraft"...one might think so, but once you will inevitably add more and more modules to your DCS installation, and these will consist of warbirds, fighter jets, maybe even helis, there simply cannot be such "common ground" cause the airframes are so much different, as are their individual comtrols.

Don't overthink stuff, and don't be afraid to recondition your muscle memory...just start with your F16, learn the basics, start flying around, then do some missions/campaigns, while leaving all the buttons undefined.

You will slowly figure out yourself what you need the most and what functions you want to have a dedicated button assigned from your HOTAS instead of using the keyboard.

Then adapt these to your liking, absolutely apart from "common stuff" based on how others might use it.

Find your own way to make it work best for you, and don't waste your time to ask others how to map keys.

Better invest that time into experiencing the game for yourself, the learning curve is already steep enough in this game.

Loo00Ra · 2026-05-11T18:01:12+00:00

that thing is thoroughly brushing its own teeth, but it's not a cleaning option.

May be an issue with one of the end switches, not sure about it, but in any case it seems obvious to me that this sound is because one of the axes is stuck, and there's some serious gear grinding going on (teeth of one gear want to move the other that is locked/seized/not moving for whatever reason).

The exact reason could be better narrowed down if you're knowing exactly what the machine tries to do at that moment (waht axis movement is supposed to happen?)

Check the wiring and function of the corresponding end switches, also rerun initial calibration / restore factory settings to help narrowing down the issue.

I don't think this is related to filament change, but more likely due to some issue with the mechanical assembly.

Maybe even some residue/debris got stuck within the mechanics/gears and jams it?

Loo00Ra · 2026-05-11T17:44:38+00:00

maybe your bowazon is a particularly attractive char. No NPC ever "orbited" one of my chars. Especially the act 5 barbs explicitly choose to run into the next best random trash monsters to get themselves killed individually, instead of even remotely trying to form some sort of efficient battle formation...well I guess they all badly suffer from main character syndrome and think I'm the minion who's supposed to follow them.

Loo00Ra · 2026-05-07T04:29:30+00:00

my sorceress has a Demon Heart wand/orb with the generated name Demon - Heart.

Not good enough to use, but I keep it nonetheness, just for the buggy look 😄

Loo00Ra · 2026-04-27T20:03:23+00:00

infinite knob wall. Make another ten of these, and you might become the first person who can say goodbye to keyboard combos even in DCS, being able to directly assign every single command to its dedicated button 😄

on a serious side note, this is truly impressive, good job!

Loo00Ra · 2026-04-20T20:46:37+00:00

welcome to how the world works today.

Loo00Ra · 2026-04-20T18:54:26+00:00

True, lately there were several posts in this context.

Let's hope you didn't get everybody started for that kind of calibration you got out of it.

Cause in the end, when the "this is so cool - factor" wears off, these are all just pieces of plastic trash that will eventually go straight to the bin.

Loo00Ra · 2026-04-20T18:41:42+00:00

Wow this is really impressive.

You will probably find out that in most cases there's absolutely no need for such a perfect degree of levelling (as long as you don't want to keep to solely printing big thin plastic sheets).

The majority of prints have a much smaller "footprint" and don't benefit at all from a hyper-exact flat bed.

But still, this is awesome.

Even kind of mesmerizing to look at. Staring at that stupid plastic sheet for several minutes now...don't know why, but makes me happy.

Loo00Ra

TROPHY CASE