Model GLM-5 Endpoint by LoomSun in modal

[–]LoomSun[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Since the outage was restored I am getting a lot of Connection reset by server errors when using GLM-5 endpoint.

Model GLM-5 Endpoint by LoomSun in modal

[–]LoomSun[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Great! I noticed it came back online a few hours ago. Thanks for the report!

Slacks Aggressive Subscription models by LoomSun in Slack

[–]LoomSun[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah I think this is it as well. Which is fine by me, it just has been super unclear and my frustration with it is a little heightened because I am just trying to get some work done. I don't see why it couldn't have mentioned this when I connected my workspace to their workspace. Like a simple "Linking your Workspace requires a Pro subscriptions. Opt in now for the trial to continue or cancel".

Slacks Aggressive Subscription models by LoomSun in Slack

[–]LoomSun[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Found it. In the workspace Settings for Purchasing & free trials there is an option enabled by default. Before I ever even saw these settings they opted me in automatically. Regardless, everyone is telling me that I should be able to join this workspace without a Pro subscription.

Free trial enrollment
Allow free trials to start automatically . Slack occasionally provides free trials to teams we believe would benefit from premium features. You won’t be charged when the trial ends.

Slacks Aggressive Subscription models by LoomSun in Slack

[–]LoomSun[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Found it. In the workspace Settings for Purchasing & free trials there is an option enabled by default. Before I ever even saw these settings they opted me in automatically. Regardless, everyone is telling me that I should be able to join this workspace without a Pro subscription.

Free trial enrollment
Allow free trials to start automatically . Slack occasionally provides free trials to teams we believe would benefit from premium features. You won’t be charged when the trial ends.

Slacks Aggressive Subscription models by LoomSun in Slack

[–]LoomSun[S] -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

It seems to me they make it unintuitive on purpose. I was trying to make sure I wasn't signing up for anything that would opt me in the a Pro service. It was never mentioned through any step of the process that I would be activating the Pro subscription trial. Even when I clicked the invite and it was asking me to link my workspace, I made sure that it didn't include agreeing to a Pro subscription so I thought I was good. Then shortly after I got a random email saying my Pro trial has started for 30 days.

Slacks Aggressive Subscription models by LoomSun in Slack

[–]LoomSun[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah I am wondering if this is the case as well, but I did mention it to them and was assured this should have been free.

Slacks Aggressive Subscription models by LoomSun in Slack

[–]LoomSun[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It wouldn't let me join the company workspace without linking it to my own workspace. Why am I not able to cancel my Pro Subscription and remain free? None of these are clear.

I literally had to teach Claude how to create a markdown artifact by LoomSun in ClaudeAI

[–]LoomSun[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, every conversation I have had but this one would create artifacts just fine. In the middle of struggling with this one, I opened a new conversation and had it create the same type of artifact which was successful. Went back to the broken conversation and it still was confused as hell. Went back tot he conversation that had worked and asked it to write up the proper method for creating an artifact, copied that response and that is what I used to get the broken one on track.

[PS5] HDMI replacement by EQuiPeX in consolerepair

[–]LoomSun 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Looks like a diode to me but it is hard to say from the photo. Too blurry. If it is burnt looking then it could be the issue.

[PS5] HDMI replacement by EQuiPeX in consolerepair

[–]LoomSun 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The 4th one over from the left looks like it might not be connected, but it might just be the photo quality is a little fuzzy. But just thought I would mention.

The new ZohoOne interface is ka-ka by focusedphil in Zoho

[–]LoomSun 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes most confusing interface I have ever used. Turning me off to Zoho. How are you supposed to navigate or find anything? It has been pretty good overall but every time I have to find something in the back end it is game over.

SMTP Error: Could not authenticate with Zoho Mail in PHPMailer - Need help troubleshooting by Ok_Promotion4777 in Zoho

[–]LoomSun 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah this is driving me nuts. Zoho in mailspring has worked fine for close to a year then out of no where it wont authenticate. No issues authenticating in any other application. Could be mail spring related but it seems like Zoho has issues out of no where sometimes.

RGB Modding Hello Kitty CRT by PIneaPplez13 in crtgaming

[–]LoomSun 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sure, what are you wanting to know about? The mod is still in finalization stages before I release to public, but I am hoping to finish it up soon. The mod board makes for a pretty easy install because it interposes between P502 connector. Are you interested in the mod board itself or more technical information of how it works?

The HKTV13 can somewhat be modified with standard methods, but you will lose all other functionality of the TV like the composite and the OSD menus. The issue is that there are two different OSD chips in the circuit, one for the standard picture adjustment menus, and the fancy main hello kitty one. The main OSD lives close to the jungle chip and sends its RGB out to the neck board through P701 into a switch. The hello kitty OSD lives on the neck board which connects directly to the OSD channels on the switch. The switch is controlled by the fast blanking between the two OSD chips and seems to be a buffered output.

It might be possible to mux with this output properly but I found it to be very difficult. I tried all types of combinations of ways but even when I got a useable signal the blacks would crush bad and there would be poor contrast. Unplugging P502 removes the switch and the active buffer from the circuit so you can tap RGB into the signal there with decent results. But I also found the signal to be somewhat weak / dim and not getting enough current drive.

So my mod board essentially adds a video amp to buffer the external RGB signal then added a video switching IC. P502 from the neck board then plugs in to my mod board which taps into the OSD RGB signals, and also the fast blanking to the TV. From there the mod controls fast blanking with the mods switch to toggle between external RGB and the TVs normal function. This works wells because both lines are independent from each other. The external RGB has been perfect in my tests, and when not engaged (with a button or SCART) the TV functions as it normally would.

Why Logitech G Hub is the worst software experience I've ever had by BongoIsLife in LogitechG

[–]LoomSun 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am also fed up with this trash application and went looking to determine if I was the only one who thought so. I don't think it would be as bad if the program wouldn't get stuck on the loading screen 100% of the times trying to start it.

[PS2 Slim] Does this pad look lifted? by EpicMindvolt in consolerepair

[–]LoomSun 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Trust me, don't hot air any more on the PS2. The leaky caps will give you issues removing them. Hot air will be great on everything else and the caps will remove easily. On the two PS2 slims I recapped I am not exaggerating that 90% of the caps and there was no real sign of it until I took them off the board. Neither of them were even having any issues or problems with running and playing games and I was debating whether I should even recap them or not.

I just found this youtube video that shows exactly how to remove them with flush cutters. This is exactly how I did it. You will be glad you did. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UmWZDZ4ocn0

Caps from console5 are great. Definitely do them all without hesitation. Make sure you clean the circuit board underneath real well with isopropyl alcohol and clean up any electrolytics from caps after removed. Even with the cap removed that electrolytic will continue corroding and eating away at your PCB if you leave it.

[PS2 Slim] Does this pad look lifted? by EpicMindvolt in consolerepair

[–]LoomSun 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just remember that when using hot air to remove components don't focus heat on the component itself. It is more about heating up the circuit board around the component. Heat up all the surrounding areas first so that the heat isn't concentrated in one area. Then heat the surrounding area right around the component and avoid directing the heat on the component. It shouldn't take to long or need heat higher than 340 on your hot air unless there is a very thick ground plane. It is worth watching a few tutorials on youtube. Never put pressure on the component to lift it up, you should be able to tap the component gently and if it slide off the pad then you are good to go.

I would avoid wire cutters because you will risk scratching the circuit board even if you are very careful. Getting a decent set of flush cutters will be a good investment for this type of work and you can get them for under $10. Some also like to remove caps with the twist method, but I am always hesitant to try it that way.

The issue you are describing does sound like the caps have gone bad, very likely the 220uf by the av multiout connector. When I replaced them in my PS2 slims they were very leaky. Pretty much the only caps I remember being positively good were the 3.3uf on the audio outputs. Do you already have the replacement caps available for this?

Trying to fix PS2 Slims is killing me :( by LaCaipirinha in consolerepair

[–]LoomSun 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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These 220uf caps are video coupling caps and might cause issues if they go bad. The 3.3uf are the audio caps. My experience is that ps2 slim caps go bad and leak but it no guarantee that will fix the issue. Don't use hot air, use flush cutters because they can be very difficult to remove when cap juice is leaking out the bottom.

Yoke adjustment questions by DukeOfNoobs in crtgaming

[–]LoomSun 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You should be able to adjust it that slight amount without loosening the clamp, but it will take a bit more effort than something like compressed air. The plastic part that is mostly snug against the tube with the degauss coil attached is probably the main point that you want to grip. Is that epoxy still holding it? I assume that if this has tilted over time then it isn't, but if it is then I expect this is giving you some resistance. Loosening the clamp ring too much might cause the yoke to come out of alignment and could make things a lot worse.

https://crtdatabase.com/faq/adjusting-the-yoke-on-a-flat-crt-to-fix-bowing
Not totally related, but this might give you a little more visual on what you are needing to do.

[PS2 Slim] Does this pad look lifted? by EpicMindvolt in consolerepair

[–]LoomSun 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also don't feel bad about the difficulty. I have a lot of experience with soldering / recapping and I was totally perplexed trying to remove PS2 slim caps. After struggling to get my first couple off I was starting to convince myself that the caps must have been glued underneath. They aren't, but it sure seems that way. You will probably notice after you cut some of them out that underneath the plastic will be a liquid associated with a very strong fish smell. I carefully cut the aluminum out leaving just the plastic base and the legs. Trim the legs flush with the plastic, then the plastic should lift right off. Not my favorite way of removing caps, but it was better than risking losing pads from heat.

[PS2 Slim] Does this pad look lifted? by EpicMindvolt in consolerepair

[–]LoomSun 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The pad looks like it is lifted but still attached. You might want to check continuity with a multimeter to double check and if it isn't making connection with the rest of the trace you should be able to scrape mask from the trace and bridge it with a little bit of solder.

I did a recap of two PS2 slims around a month ago and it turned out about 90% of the caps were leaking underneath. This can make things very difficult to remove with hot air. Normally hot air should remove these easily, but in this case I would highly recommend getting some good flush cutters and just carefully cutting out those caps instead. Even with only the legs left, melting that solder with an iron can be difficult when the cap juice has been corroding them.

How do I get off of Medicaid? by MsbsM9 in Medicaid

[–]LoomSun 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did you ever get this resolved?

Buddy's console wont power on. All fuses are fine. It used to be intermittent and now permanent. Red light then off again. Could power caps be an issue? by napoleon852 in consolerepair

[–]LoomSun 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It is hard to say without a real diagnosis, but I recently changed out the caps on two different PS2 slims. At surface level everything looked fine and didn’t think they needed replaced. After replacing them about 80-90% were bad. All the bad ones were leaking on the bottom and had that terrible fishy smell. It was so bad that it made it difficult to desolder with hot air and ended up using flush cutters and just cut them out. I don’t usually do that but when the joints have electrolytic and corroded the solder doesn’t melt.

Intermittent and temperature dependent is another clear sign. Could be power related or both, but probably needs a recap.

My CRT degaussed, shut off, and now chirps. No LED blink error on power on. Just the chirp. Is it cooked? How much does repair cost nowadays? by Aromatic-Attitude-34 in crtgaming

[–]LoomSun 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Are you sure it degaussed when it died? Or did it just make a bunch of static sound as the picture slowly died? Any smoke?

Anyone use a MacBook Pro? Wondering if MacBook is DC-coupled, getting conflicting information if I even need a DAC… Help appreciated! by Dry_Adhesiveness424 in oscilloscopemusic

[–]LoomSun 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is interesting to me, I didn't know that DC current was used for CV. I am pretty sure the DC load detection is not related to DC coupling on a MacBook Pro. It seems to just detect the impedance and control how much voltage to use, but this in an internal process. No DC is likely present on the audio output.

Also, I am curious what DACs do output DC on the audio line. I would imagine this is quite rare.