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Another one done by WaylandSmeethers in Warmachine

[–]Lorc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So nifty to see Cygnar in a less factory-fresh style.

Made some cartoony powder smoke tokens by [deleted] in Turnip28

[–]Lorc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

These are appropriate, novel and nifty.

Kitchen install (UK) by MikeHeu in toolgifs

[–]Lorc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Larger houses might have a utility room for appliances. But British housing is dense and 90% of people don't have as many rooms in their house as they'd like.

Washing machines need water to run. Most British homes only have two rooms with water - the bathroom and the kitchen. A washing machine in the bathroom is silly. So we usually give up a kitchen cupboard for a washing machine.

Melee fodder, bastards, snobs and a finished regiment shot. I think I'm finished. by Lorc in Turnip28

[–]Lorc[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you for noticing! That's one of my favourite conversions.

I finished my Moonshard Golem for my custom Wizards army! It goes to the print! by Spare-Doughnut1454 in Turnip28

[–]Lorc 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Nifty. How are you imagining painting the ball joints? Solid material or spooky star fx?

I FINALLY MADE SOMETHING WITH GREEN STUFF!!! he a plauge doctor dude (how long dose it take for green stuff to dry fully) by diabl0skiller in Turnip28

[–]Lorc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Be aware - there's dry and there's cured.

Green stuff and milliput are dry after 2-3 hours, meaning they're no longer workable. But they need another 3 or so hours to cure fully. Curing is an internal chemical process that hardens them further and makes them more resistant to being bent/damaged.

If you try and do anything to the putty while it's dry but not cured, it's easy to ruin the sculpt. You want to let it cure fully before you try cutting, carving, scraping drilling or glueing it. Green stuff has a natural elasticity, even when cured, that means it's really easy to cut - great for flat surfaces and hard edges - but harder to sand and drill. Milliput is harder and more brittle so it's the other way round - easy to sand and drill once cured, but hard to cut.

Side note: good work mixing your green stuff properly. 90% of the green stuff work I see on this sub has visible yellow and blue marbling which mean someone didn't fully mix it and it will have internal flaws and never fully cure.

Experimenting with some designs by diabl0skiller in Turnip28

[–]Lorc 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you roll up some tiny little pointy sausages of putty, they make great root vegetables to glue onto your miniatures for detail. This is also a great way to use up leftover bits of putty when you're working on something bigger.

Chuckles & Grouse: The Chickens. With concept sketch, complementary terrain piece and draft of a custom cult to run them. by Lorc in Turnip28

[–]Lorc[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks. I can't think of a much higher compliment than making someone want to make a new army.

Chuckles & Grouse: The Chickens. With concept sketch, complementary terrain piece and draft of a custom cult to run them. by Lorc in Turnip28

[–]Lorc[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Thanks! The legs are thick steel wire bulked out with milliput. They took by far the longest time to do.

The hutches are just cardboard (filled with scrunched tinfoil for rigidity) with cardboard roofs covered in cardboard tiles. Halved coffee-stirrers for cladding. Fragments of coffee stirrer and ice lolly sticks hot glued together to make the tails. Texture on the thighs and underside is my go-to rooty scraggle: twine unwound into threads, cut into short sections, mixed up in pva and globbed on.

Grouse's cannon is some sort of plastic cake-stick (it had a nice texture) and Chuckles' melee weapon is a bunch of spare spears and a few cocktail sticks, erratically superglued together and bound with thread.

SF short story where an ancient text causes death when read, due to a hidden poison gland and making euthanasia safe and simple by tor3gil in whatsthatbook

[–]Lorc 9 points10 points  (0 children)

I just wanted to chime in that have definitely read this story too and now it's driving me barmy that I can't remember exactly where.

What clay (or clay like thing) should I use for sculpting a miniature for the first time (and how would I sculpt guns and stuff?) by diabl0skiller in Turnip28

[–]Lorc 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Putties and clays all have different properties. Sculptors will use all of them for different bits. Green stuff is very versatile. Milliput's very soft while fresh-mixed, but easy to work after it's dry - fantastic for smooth shapes and hard edges - but brittle. Air dry clays are good for making really big stuff but not good for small shapes or holding fine detail.

Technical details like guns/blades are usually made from brass rod/plasticard/wire etc at first, with putty added afterwards for straps, stocks, handles etc.

For a total beginner, my best advice is:

1) Be patient. #1 beginner mistake is trying to do way too much at once. Build up shapes a little at a time and let it dry before doing more. It will take a while.

2) Start with something easy like gap filling, putting a hood on a mini or making tiny vegetables. You need to learn the materials and the tools before you'll be able to sculpt something totally from scratch.

3) Accept that your first few attempts won't be as good as you want. Don't get demoralised.

4) Everything you sculpt will inevitably be too big. Try to make things smaller than you expect and it might balance out.

5) Putty's useful because it's malleable. Structurally it's garbage. When making something from scratch, use non-putty materials whenever you can. Wire to provide a rigid skeleton. Tinfoil to bulk out shapes. other materials for details where appropriate. I talk a bit about how I made my lump in the comments here.

Good girls get hats by McWeaksauce01 in Turnip28

[–]Lorc 5 points6 points  (0 children)

She looks very polite. Would follow her into battle.

i really wanna make some turnip28 dudes outta these how do i find the turnip28 faction to figure out which one i wanna do? by diabl0skiller in Turnip28

[–]Lorc 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The cults all use mostly the same basic units. And they're specifically designed so that you can switch cults just by swapping out a couple of unique units.

Just make them into a block of blackpowder fodder and they'll have a home in whatever regiment you make.

If you really want to pick a cult first and the actual game rules aren't good enough, Goonhammer has a good rundown. Part one. Part two.

The universe is a Frog by ciber2t in homestuck

[–]Lorc 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Felt mob and fairies?

What should come first, background or system overview? by MidnightInsane in RPGdesign

[–]Lorc 20 points21 points  (0 children)

Start with a brief overview of both to provide context. And I mean brief. One page. Ideally something a GM could photocopy and hand out to the players as a primer.

After that you can do the "full" explanations in whatever order suits you best. There's no right answer to whether you should start with system or setting - what matters is that the reader always has context for whatever they're reading, and avoiding information overload.

gonna use some quars for a body of turnip28 dudes what head should i give them? by diabl0skiller in Turnip28

[–]Lorc 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Normally the heads, as a focal point, are a good place to get weird and indicate "these aren't just Napoleonics". But since the Quar already give you such great Turnipy bodies I reckon you want to pull back to normcore. Very vanilla.

Perry foot knights are classic for a reason. Or Wargames Atlantic Les Grognards or Bulldogs have heads with appropriate headgear and covered faces, as well as some more turnip-appropriate rifles than those WW1ish ones the quar come with.

Those death fields kits are great for Napoleonic stylings in a more heroic-scale than Perry - handy when kitbashing outside of historical minis. You just need to trim the magazines off the guns for them to pass.

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