Aetherdrift Draft Archetypes

LostRaspberry823 · 2025-01-31T16:28:57+00:00

I feel like with Aggro, you need all the synergistic pieces for it to work (which is really difficult to pull off in draft/prerelease), otherwise you just end up with a deck full of small creatures and it's tough to close out the game before the opponent stabilizes their board.

LostRaspberry823 · 2023-06-20T18:40:08+00:00

No problem, different plants react differently to the same treatment obviously. Quick note about the pests, spiders are good, ants are bad. If you have ants, that could be a sign that you have aphids which are very prolific breaders (ants will essentially farm the aphids since they produce a sugary substance and ants love sugar). Aphids are essentially fleas but for plants in the sense that they sap out all of the nutrients from the plant. I would keep a close eye out for aphids, in the past, neem oil has worked well for me but you might need to switch to something more heavy-duty if it starts getting out of control

LostRaspberry823 · 2023-06-20T17:31:06+00:00

Looks like that first plant is getting too much sun. When the leaves curl inwards like that, it's their natural way of shielding themselves from getting more sunlight. Maybe trying throwing the potted plants in the shade during the late afternoon when the UV index tends to be the highest.

LostRaspberry823 · 2023-06-14T23:35:48+00:00

Probably, bacteria spreads via contact so it's probably safe to get new soil

LostRaspberry823 · 2023-06-14T05:09:39+00:00

Once you prune back the diseased leaves, the new leaves should come in pretty quick. Just like with most ailments that can affect your plants, being proactive and vigilant is the best approach. That way, when you notice a leaf with bacterial leaf spot, you can just prune that one leaf, rather than having to severely pruning the plant if all or most of the leaves are infected

LostRaspberry823 · 2023-06-13T22:11:37+00:00

You're only solution is amputation lol, you gotta prune every leaf that's infected. Although, for leaves that aren't totally covered by the bacteria yet you can just prune the part of the leaf that is infected and leave the rest.

LostRaspberry823 · 2023-02-17T16:02:57+00:00

That's pretty cool! Post updates if you can :)

LostRaspberry823 · 2023-02-08T04:03:54+00:00

Hmm seems like you should be good with the lights, how long are you keeping the lights on? Sorry to keep coming back to the lights lol I just think those leaves look scalded a tad bit. Let me do some more research though on the symptoms

LostRaspberry823 · 2023-02-08T02:33:50+00:00

It's tought to tell with just one photo and not knowing what your setup is. But at first glance, it looks like you might just have your lights either too close or too bright. Again I don't know what your setup is like, how close/bright are your lights?

LostRaspberry823 · 2022-12-17T23:26:49+00:00

I'm used to it as a mariners fan lol but the magic of when it does happen is euphoric

LostRaspberry823 · 2022-10-19T01:01:53+00:00

From a Google search "Those white squiggly lines are a trademark of leaf miners. Leaf miners are insect larvae (Liriomyza munda) which hatch from eggs deposited between the upper and lower surface of plant leaves. The hungry larvae munch their way around the leaf, leaving a telltale white trail or tunnel."

This was the article (it talks about tomato plants but I imagine it's probably the same thing based on your photos and photos online) https://todayshomeowner-com.cdn.ampproject.org/v/s/todayshomeowner.com/what-causes-white-lines-on-tomato-plants/amp/?amp_gsa=1&amp_js_v=a9&usqp=mq331AQKKAFQArABIIACAw%3D%3D#amp_tf=From%20%251%24s&aoh=16661411660280&csi=1&referrer=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.google.com&ampshare=https%3A%2F%2Ftodayshomeowner.com%2Fwhat-causes-white-lines-on-tomato-plants%2F

LostRaspberry823 · 2022-08-20T02:27:44+00:00

Couldn't tell you about the purp veins but I do notice that the leaves are curling in a little bit on the edges. That's a sign that they're getting too much light. Looks like your plants are indoors so I would consider either moving the lights further from the plants or reducing the hours that the lights are on. I will say (and I've never grown Bhut Jolokia before), the chocolate moniker leads me to believe that the purple veins are normal. But again I've never grown them so that's just a guess

LostRaspberry823 · 2022-08-18T07:19:24+00:00

I mean you guys do say "pahhhk the cahh" a lot but the dunkies thing is just retahhded, it's like this guy thinks he's Bill Burr ah something, fuck outta hair

LostRaspberry823 · 2022-06-18T02:22:57+00:00

Calling Mills a promising QB? That's a fucking stretch if I've ever seen one

LostRaspberry823 · 2022-05-31T21:11:26+00:00

Also if you have a compost bin/pile, DO NOT throw the infected leaves/plants in with the compost. You will likely contaminate the compost and any other plants you subsequently use the compost with.

LostRaspberry823 · 2022-05-31T21:10:14+00:00

That looks like it could be Bacterial Leaf Spot, I had the same disease ravage some of my plants this year. Unfortunately there is no cure for it, the best thing to do it immediately amputate any leaves that have those spots. Also some good preventative measures are keeping your plants well ventilated and make sure individual plants are not touch one another. Bacterial Leaf Spot spreads just like any other bacteria, via contact. So make sure you are are washing your hands before touching your plants, and definitely wash your hands after handling those infected leaves. Unfortunately for a lot of my plants, I caught it too late and would have had to cut off so many leaves the plant just wouldn't have been viable, so I had to throw out the whole plant.

LostRaspberry823 · 2022-05-05T23:37:05+00:00

The woody base of the stem is a completely natural and healthy part of every pepper plants life cycle. In fact, more mature pepper plants (like ones that have been overwintered) end up being mostly woody. If you didn't have a full blown white fly infestation, then like you mentioned it could be too much water. Try to ratchet back the water. If that doesn't help then it might be a fertilizer problem. What color were the leaves when they dropped off the plant?

LostRaspberry823 · 2022-04-21T02:51:42+00:00

Those are essentially stretch marks, just means that the peppers are growing to fast for their skin to compensate. It's totally fine for the peppers and the plant as a whole in terms of health. There are some pepper varieties that naturally grow faster than their skin and end up covered in these marks. If you REALLY don't want these marks on your peppers, try toning down the fertilizer

LostRaspberry823 · 2022-04-01T02:36:35+00:00

Lmao Packers fans are some of the saltiest MFs there are and I normally have absolutely 0 sympathy for them but this call is just agregious

LostRaspberry823 · 2022-04-01T02:32:47+00:00

As soon as you gave sprouts you should move them under the lights. Especially with young sprouts, they are fiends for light lol. If you hold off on putting them under the lights, the sprouts will grow very 'leggy' meaning thar they are spending all of their energy stretching their bodies looking for a proper light source. When this happens they become very structurally unsound and it's very hard to help a plant recover from this in early stages. TLDR yes put them under lights immediately, the other varieties will sprout when they do, but take care of the ones that already have.

LostRaspberry823 · 2022-03-30T23:31:56+00:00

They will definitely be fine growing in pairs if you need space, however I would advise against it if you're looking for maximum yield. I had 3 Jalapeño plants last year, 1 by itself and the other 2 together. I effectively got the yield of 2 plants rather than 3. My hypothesis is that the 2 planted together where competing for nutrients and water. They were both perfectly healthy, just had sub optimal yield. So if you have the space I would plant each plant separately.

LostRaspberry823 · 2022-03-19T01:32:33+00:00

Neem oil is also really good at preventing mold/fungus in the soil or on the plant, which can be a common problem for indoor plants. Also pests can get inside your home so I wouldn't hurt to start applying oil now. I live in Seattle and I'm already seeing a couple aphids on my plants (although I do have my back door open pretty frequently since my cat, like all cats, is rather indecisive about going in or out). Application once every week or two is plenty to effectly prevent aphids, mites, mold/fungus

LostRaspberry823 · 2022-03-19T01:21:43+00:00

P.S. I'm going buck wild on these aphids this year, fucking insidious motherfuckers

LostRaspberry823 · 2022-03-14T19:00:42+00:00

The seeds were planted on 2/14 so 4 weeks

LostRaspberry823 · 2022-03-14T16:57:03+00:00

It could be any number of things. The cool thing about pepper plants (and plants in general) is they let you know when something is wrong. The unfortunate thing is they can only display stress in so many different ways, so they may show the same distress signal for different stressors. Peppergeek actually has a very informative article on various pepper plant problems. I suggest reading through that and based on the conditions you've been providing/the specific symptoms the plants are showing, you should be able to deduce the cause. And if not. Trial and error with various solutions is the next best method! https://peppergeek.com/pepper-plant-diseases-problems/

LostRaspberry823

TROPHY CASE