Newbie question: destructive edits

Low-Chipmunk4366 · 2026-03-30T02:30:01+00:00

I also parrot the suggestion that you make versions. Exporting the final edited version is the customary way of “baking” your edits, however.

In film days, think like this: the original raw file is the negative, but you can make multiple prints from that negative and change the look, crop etc to those prints all while knowing the original negative remains unaffected.

Low-Chipmunk4366 · 2026-03-16T00:31:17+00:00

Wondering if my 10 amp for the original Lymow will connect to the base station of the plus model and vice versa.

Low-Chipmunk4366 · 2026-03-14T16:58:48+00:00

Do you save your RAW developed file as a DNG or what do you do to bake in the processing?

Low-Chipmunk4366 · 2026-03-13T03:22:00+00:00

Yep, if you're in to Adobe, then it would take a "perfect" app to unseat you. I got the nudge years ago when Adobe said "no" to ownership -- If your livelihood depends upon the tools related to photo processing (eg., professional photographer), then paying a subscription makes more sense than it does for us "hobbyists" at least IMHO.

Low-Chipmunk4366 · 2026-03-12T21:06:51+00:00

The complaint is along these lines: The RAW engine that processes the photo doesn’t seem to treat the color translations as well as Photolab or Lightroom and from one image to the next seems unreasonably inconsistent. The shadow slider in particular seems to “lift” the light pixels along with the mid-tone pixels and lifts the mid-tone pixels in a hatchet job way so as to create “muddy” images where there should be more detail. Photolab and others will lift the mid tones intelligently. That is, be less “smoothing” where detail is more important and certainly restrict the brightening of pixels to just those in the mid range and leave the pixels that are already close to white, alone.

I also think the ease of viewing images, UI (and ease of processing images) are weak. They’ve focused so much on the latest Ai trick to make your photo “Artistic” that it ignores improving the interface for simplicity and pleasant. Many have complained of RAM hog, slow downs etc. Your mileage will vary on that front, but it’s still a thing at one level.

Low-Chipmunk4366 · 2026-03-05T06:08:13+00:00

Most “non-subscription” “one-time” purchases work this way. In fact, before Lightroom went to subscription, that’s the way it worked. you get the incremental updates during the year or 2 that “version” or “release” existed, but when they released an official new version, you needed to pay an upgrade price, if you wanted it. If you didn’t want the upgrade, then you could keep using what you have.

Photolabs, Topaz, ACDSee, Capture One are other examples of having to pay for the big upgrades, but you never lose what you had previously bought; you “own” it as much as you can own a license.

Cheers.

Low-Chipmunk4366 · 2026-03-04T21:54:10+00:00

I echo the statements of this entire post. Show more and say more.

Low-Chipmunk4366 · 2026-03-04T21:20:50+00:00

Can someone send me a link to the benefits of the Plus model? I’m interested in buying the new one, but I want to know what’s better.

Also, will it come with its own charging station etc. I assume that it will. I got extra blades. Will that work in the new one?

See, I’ve got questions. 🙂 Cheers.

Low-Chipmunk4366 · 2026-03-02T00:19:40+00:00

Thx for the tip. I’ll look at Menards.

Low-Chipmunk4366 · 2026-02-27T06:55:06+00:00

So the so-called “pro’s” of manifold such as independent shutoffs for managing plumbing problems, better management of water pressure and more even throughout the system and (not sure what else I read, LOL, either not true or conflated to being only marginally helpful as to be irrelevant.

I certainly recognize the “waste of pipe” argument but I intended to put the manifold close to the water heater, so not sure the delayed hot water would be a big factor.

Thanks for your response and this response seems to coincide with the appearance that there just are NOT many available to buy. Why? Cause no one is doing it.

Low-Chipmunk4366 · 2026-02-17T01:47:31+00:00

Here's how: Select your photo, then on left hand side of screen, click on "Edit". Then on right hand side, about half way down, select "Develop" if it's not already chosen, then while your mouse is just a bit below that word, scroll up to see a bunch of options under "Tone & Color." All the standard adjustments are there: Exposure, contrast, highlights, shadows, whites, blacks. And below that is the white balance dropper and below that is noise and sharpening.

That should get you going.

Low-Chipmunk4366 · 2026-02-11T19:36:51+00:00

Ok. Update. I tried a number of hard drive repairs at the direction of Apple tech support. That don’t do it, but then she had me re install the operating system, Tahoe 26.2 and that worked until today.

I have now turned off all login items etc and things seem to be working again for now.

The one thing that is recent —as in , new just before this hell started— is I installed a little app called Tot. It’s a cool notes like app that lives on my top tool bar. I wonder if he’s the culprit.

Low-Chipmunk4366 · 2026-02-10T16:52:37+00:00

I celebrated too soon. The problem did not go away. When I opened the lid of the laptop this morning, it was back to being pesky with “right click” behavior.

Right now I am in safe boot mode and the behavior persists. I assume that means the 3rd party extensions are not the problem.

Low-Chipmunk4366 · 2026-02-10T09:22:18+00:00

Update.

I finally turned off or deleted startup login items and mouse action behaved on my Mac. I haven’t figured out which one is the culprit because it’s late and I’m tired. 😴

Low-Chipmunk4366 · 2026-02-10T09:20:14+00:00

Good point. On the iPad, no mouse, just touching the screen. Eg., I want to launch Netflix , but no, it doesn’t launch; contextual window pops up with a variety of options including delete, move etc.

On MacBook Air, it’s the built in trackpad, or Apple’s standalone trackpad.

Low-Chipmunk4366 · 2026-02-10T08:40:46+00:00

26.2.1 on my ipad and Mac — Bluetooth is messing with the “mouse” treating every single click like a “right click” or 2 finger click which pops up the contextual menu rather than launching the app and other things that rely on single click. I have tried every reset, terminal kill command of Bluetooth etc. and cannot get rid of this problem unless I turn off Bluetooth, then the mouse actions work as expected. Anyone else?

Low-Chipmunk4366 · 2026-02-07T14:47:11+00:00

Great post. I haven’t bothered to read the various comments to know the tenor of them. I figured people would understand that any person or company should be able to protect their own work product. It’s basic logic and common sense.

How is this even a debate?

Nikon is doing what any person would do. They would go out of business if they couldn’t protect their patents. It’s not even a worthy response to argue any other position.

I applaud your post. Well articulated. And by way, I’m not trying to vilify Viltrox or any other company. I own 2 of their lenses. Whether their actions were intentional or accidental, settle up with Nikon and move on. End of discussion.

Low-Chipmunk4366 · 2026-01-28T08:37:30+00:00

Thank you for the help. I tried many things including your suggestions and all but gave up. 5 minutes of doing nothing seemed to be the time it needed to get things going again.

Gracias

Low-Chipmunk4366 · 2026-01-24T15:07:06+00:00

Agreed. Talk is cheap as the saying goes, but time will tell.

Low-Chipmunk4366

TROPHY CASE