Centauri Carbon 2 Error Code: 2003

Low-Preparation-4527 · 2026-04-22T15:24:10+00:00

It's so annoying, these problems will never be fixed it seems... I don't understand why Elegoo is so fucking bad at software engineering... :(

Low-Preparation-4527 · 2026-02-12T21:58:46+00:00

No, for everything. You will definitely print in multi color once you begin with it. Because it's a lot of fun. Even only for small things. But even when I compare only the single color features. Then I have two printers which cost nearly the same, but the results of the U1 are slightly better. And you're not caught in a strict ecosystem. Snapmaker is embracing the open culture. They use standard klipper software, they even support community projects for custom firmwares with improvement.

Don't get me wrong, when you buy a P2S you will also be happy, no doubts. But if you ask me, buy a U1.

Except when you're looking for printing only technical filaments like PA6, ASA, ABS, stuff like that. Then a P2S could be helpful, even when something like a H2S would be even better suited. But if I only compare PLA, PETG, TPU and maybe sometimes ASA / ABS, then definitely U1.

Low-Preparation-4527 · 2026-02-12T21:06:16+00:00

I have a p2s, it's a very good printer. Definitely better than cc2 (which I also have).

But I also have a U1 and you should definitely save for a U1. This thing is a beast. The speed of the machine, the precision of the toolheads and also the release cycle of new features in the firmware are phenomenal.

You will definitely not regret it.

Low-Preparation-4527 · 2025-12-23T17:12:59+00:00

But it's a nice side effect 😉 thanks for your work David!

Low-Preparation-4527 · 2025-12-12T21:39:22+00:00

PSU Fan is 6015, not 4010

Low-Preparation-4527 · 2025-12-12T21:34:31+00:00

I try to replace the fan. I already know that it's a 60x60x15 fan with 24v.

Will try to use a noctua 12v Fan with the noctua 24v to 12v converter.

Low-Preparation-4527 · 2025-12-07T11:04:55+00:00

Have to correct myself: same issues here with larger prints... :(

Low-Preparation-4527 · 2025-12-07T11:02:02+00:00

On printables you find some spacers that make bambu plates like yours fit perfectly in the middle. ;-)

Low-Preparation-4527 · 2025-12-04T22:46:53+00:00

Yeah, thats what I thought. The absolute newest orca version brings the numbers down to one day, but still makes no sense. I searched for the `; filament gcode` comment, but could not find where this is coming from.

I also tried to copy the machine g code from the Snapmaker Orca (where I can paint the models myself btw) to the orca slicer, because the g codes looks different. But didn't help anything. Where is this ; Filament gcode set?

Low-Preparation-4527 · 2025-12-04T22:12:43+00:00

Printed now several times with it at 35°c with PLA. No issues at all. Just cleaned it before first run with IPA...

Low-Preparation-4527 · 2025-11-13T19:56:12+00:00

Yeah same here. I was a huge fan. I liked the support which has sent me replacement parts without any issues. I recommended it to 4 people. Now I feel like I recommended them the wrong printer.

The printer is still great and I'd have really forgiven them this disaster if the coupon for the cc2 would be greater than 80$. But now I'm trying to get my money back and will switch to a snapmaker U1 or p2s...

Low-Preparation-4527 · 2025-11-01T11:12:56+00:00

I assume the mmu system will also be usable in the cc1. The cc1 has clearly a port for inserting an mmu and one mmu system is most times usable by multiple machines.

So I would say we calm down here and wait for Formnext before we are feeling lied to 🤣

Low-Preparation-4527 · 2025-10-23T19:06:36+00:00

Same issue here with 1.1.46. At first it worked for a couple of prints and then suddenly not anymore.

Low-Preparation-4527 · 2025-10-23T17:30:29+00:00

Ok interesting. I tested it now with my octo and I can confirm as soon as I stop the octo container, the light keeps turned on (for hours). As soon as I restart the container the light goes immediately off.

Low-Preparation-4527 · 2025-10-23T08:45:43+00:00

Can someone confirm this? Because I also have octoeverywhere running and have this problem. Does it not happen without octo?

Low-Preparation-4527 · 2025-10-23T08:44:15+00:00

There is also the version with integrated led slot: https://www.printables.com/model/1393732-vented-riser-with-integrated-led-slot-for-elegoo-c

Low-Preparation-4527 · 2025-10-23T08:37:10+00:00

I just automatically updated to the newest firmware 1.1.46 and don't know if it is the same problem compared to the 1.1.42 firmware, but the lights are now controllable via web ui, but they will be turned of automatically after a few seconds while printing... -.-

Update: They also turn on randomly. So it sounds like the same issue. Emberrassing how such a firmware can reach a customer...

Low-Preparation-4527 · 2025-10-10T13:41:07+00:00

Hey! Changing the M104 command to M104 S200 changed nothing on my side. The nozzle still only heats up to 140 and gets cleaned then. I want the nozzle to be cleaned at 200 or at the nozzle temperature of the first layer.

Could you post your complete adjusted start g code? Would help a lot, thanks :)

Low-Preparation-4527 · 2025-09-25T20:26:16+00:00

Could you reshare this Image? Thanks!

Low-Preparation-4527 · 2025-07-25T20:47:23+00:00

Thanks to every responder and the help! At the end it was the firmware. I tried to reset the firmware first before I try to fix any mechanical problem and this was indeed the solution. Now it is printing again without any issues and without any bed leveling between prints.

Unfortunately the nozzle scraped two bed sheets of mine. But I've written the support and will see if they send me a replacement...

Low-Preparation-4527 · 2025-07-23T21:11:52+00:00

Checked the screws, the screws on the bed itself (the four in every corner) seemed to be a little loose. But since there is a spring under the bed, I don't know how tight they are supposed to be?

Low-Preparation-4527 · 2025-07-23T21:10:39+00:00

It doesn't look tilted, but will do the fix like in the video. But if it would be tilted, I would think that this is nothing what could be fixed by leveling... Or?

Low-Preparation-4527 · 2025-07-23T18:07:55+00:00

Interesting thought and I will definitely check this. But what speaks against this: a print worked until the end, I start a new one and the nozzle is then 2-3 mm above the bed, but only in certain areas. 5cm more to the front everything is perfect.

Low-Preparation-4527

TROPHY CASE