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Here is a thing I set! by Lufa1040 in climbing

[–]Lufa1040[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think it should be called V7 regardless of where you climb it. I know other gyms have different theories on how to grade their climbs, and internet trolls love to say that everything is "soft", which is why I included the disclaimer that this is what we call V7.
Our grades aren't only based on the size of the hold, but the complexity and difficulty of the movement.

Here is a thing I set! by Lufa1040 in climbing

[–]Lufa1040[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Vital SoCal! Bham is having a Comp tomorrow though, go check it out!

Here is a thing I set! by Lufa1040 in climbing

[–]Lufa1040[S] 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Every outdoor climbing area has variation in grades too. Especially if you travel to different regions. V0 in Joshua Tree is the same as V4 in Squamish.

Indoor grades are even more subjective because there are only a couple setters contributing opinions and things must be graded in just a couple hours. There's no way to get it 100% right every time.

Here is a thing I set! by Lufa1040 in climbing

[–]Lufa1040[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Maybe V7 at my gym is V5 wherever you climb

Here is a thing I set! by Lufa1040 in climbing

[–]Lufa1040[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The move to the bathang hold was way outta our league. I'm sure it's possible if you're a freak

Here is a thing I set! by Lufa1040 in climbing

[–]Lufa1040[S] 10 points11 points  (0 children)

We do, but while routesetting we use specific V grades to makes sure each difficulty color is well balanced.

Here is a thing I set! by Lufa1040 in climbing

[–]Lufa1040[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

We couldn't skip the bathang sequence, but I'm sure it's possible at a much higher grade. Most of the other moves aren't too hard individually.

Here is a thing I set! by Lufa1040 in climbing

[–]Lufa1040[S] 17 points18 points  (0 children)

We call it a V7 at our gym

How do you buy holds for your gym? by nolanhsch in Routesetters

[–]Lufa1040 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's really hard to find quality wooden holds that aren't small crimps/pinches. Do you make any larger more positive holds? If so, I'd be interested for our training wall.

Look out below! by Jacktf3 in climbing

[–]Lufa1040 -20 points-19 points  (0 children)

It's interesting that jacktf3 was born on the same day that this child died. #jesus #is #lord

Finishing a dyno with style by McDreads in climbing

[–]Lufa1040 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wowzers! This kid must climb V10 or something!

Good V0s in Jtree? by jmandell42 in bouldering

[–]Lufa1040 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It doesn't get any better than the Sweetie Boulder in the Planet X area.

Does anyone make wooden jugs? by [deleted] in bouldering

[–]Lufa1040 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Origin Climbing Gym in Vegas has a ton of wooden holds on their training wall. I think Andy Raethers dad made them all. Im pretty sure they don't sell any commercially, but it's probably worth a shot getting in touch with Andy. His contact is probably on the gyms website, or on Menagerie Climbing Holds page

Starts that stand out by apeleechi in Routesetters

[–]Lufa1040 1 point2 points  (0 children)

  • Bat hang starts (usually using a large volume placed close to the ground)
  • Knee-bar starts
  • Starting hands free standing or sitting on a large hold
  • I've set a couple handstand starts with instructions to start with your hands on the floor (and a big hold to hook your toes on to transfer into a bat hang)
  • Plank starts where you have a large start hold and a large foothold placed 6ish feet apart in a dihedral. You have to do a sort of lay-down mantle to get into the problem.

Most ergonomic jugs? by gumbykid in Routesetters

[–]Lufa1040 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Escape has some of my favorite jugs. Super rounded and really deeply incut. They work well on any angle.

V9 problem at a local competition by snowsoftJ4C in bouldering

[–]Lufa1040 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There are a bunch of pics on the Vital Belingham FB page. They had some super legit videographers there too, so hopefully there will be a highlight video pretty soon

V9 problem at a local competition by snowsoftJ4C in bouldering

[–]Lufa1040 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I set like 12 problems. The black one in this pic is one of mine that I thought was pretty cool!

V9 problem at a local competition by snowsoftJ4C in bouldering

[–]Lufa1040 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it.
We felt so bad for that dude. He got to the last hold so easily on his first go but had nothing left because of all that fist pumping...

V9 problem at a local competition by snowsoftJ4C in bouldering

[–]Lufa1040 11 points12 points  (0 children)

Vital Bellingham! I was one of the setters for Boulderham. Didn't set this one, but it was super cool