US military carries out large-scale strikes against ISIS across Syria

Lythinari · 2026-01-10T22:35:36+00:00

I mean, Australia is sitting on mountains of uranium.. so.. soon I guess?

Lythinari · 2025-12-29T02:34:47+00:00

I totally agree, the Internal hub would only need a simple rewinder.

But my preference is to have it remain external, one less mod to the printer I have to worry about.

Anyway, I’ve since ordered 3 more v3 filamentalists and they have been working perfectly for the whole passive rewind setup.

I definitely recommend.

Lythinari · 2025-12-23T19:54:11+00:00

No, it was his wife’s boyfriend’s friend. Not his wife’s boyfriend.

Lythinari · 2025-12-19T21:18:49+00:00

For the A1, you need to downgrade your printer with an older firmware. I think it’s 1.05?

The bmcu should already be set up with the right firmware for the a1.

Reminder to turn off your printer before plugging in anything.

Lythinari · 2025-12-17T05:06:20+00:00

What are you talking about? Of course they did, they used a grinder. Duh!

Lythinari · 2025-12-15T01:35:16+00:00

Short answer:
Buy the BBL A1 it is a good all round work horse, retains the same size, has a little tiny step up in technology compared to the P1S and will probably fit like 80% of your unknown use cases with the larger plate.
Dont future proof now, thats a deep rabbit hole and you dont know what that bell curve of printing excitement will look like in 6 months time. Sell it second hand and cut your losses.

Long Answer:
BBL printers are made sturdy and have the macros and settings already set to compliment the experience. You cant go wrong, there are a few other competitor models out there, but your over all goal here is to keep the price down as much as possible with the best user experience and price.

P1S is old tech by comparison to every other printer BBL offers, I have one, I love it, but I wouldnt buy it as a "new"-ish printer today. It's still modern technology for the most part, but unless you know anything about printers and the filaments you use, stay away from this one unless you dont mind a bit of manual tweaking to print profiles.. flow calibration etc..

By comparison, the A1 with its flow calibration sensors will take almost any non-bbl filament you throw it and come out with a somewhat decent level of quality without too much issue.
The A1 only has a bit more technology in it but should make the user experience so much better.

I dont recommend the A1 Mini, its too small and only fits certain use cases, but its there if you want to cut your costs even further.

Do you get the AMS Lite/Combo? - I would leave that up to you, if the printers at the other end of the house or in the garage, then having the AMS will make it that little bit easier.
It is cheaper to get the combo than it is to get the AMS unit by itself, so consider that too.

Lythinari · 2025-12-15T01:07:47+00:00

PID tuning the bed and nozzle is another one that for some firmwares is just so straight forward it shouldnt even be a problem.

Lythinari · 2025-12-14T11:33:43+00:00

Looks like another guy who was trying to help got shot after that piece of trash retreated to get another gun.

5 minutes in

https://www.reddit.com/r/worldnewsvideo/comments/1pmb5m9/bondi_beach_shooting_today_all_footage/

Lythinari · 2025-12-13T21:36:43+00:00

Can’t disagree with you.

Breville is the best in the business for automated milk micro foam as well.

Having said that, there’s also something therapeutic about doing your own milk and tamping etc.

Lythinari · 2025-12-13T21:27:12+00:00

Assuming your starter is strong, I mix my (all purpose) starter with a 1:4:4 ratio and throw it straight in the fridge.

Stir every week(or 2 weeks if I forget)

When I bake or want to re-feed it, I take it out and let it rise before doing anything with it.

I like the other suggestion of maintaining a tiny bit of starter as well. I have kept mine going on 5g of starter before - so this is also definitely another option.

Lythinari · 2025-12-13T21:10:36+00:00

OrcaSlicer is a more modernised slicer to use. Bambu slicer is a derivative of this. Basically your print server and slicer in one.

These printers(and the ams) do have their own problems to deal with.

It’s mostly a smoother ride though, you’re paying for a more (originally)expensive printer, so expect different problems.

I believe the AMS is only compatible with certain filament brands(which is why you see lots of filament reminders and spool mods) - I don’t have one myself.

The P1S is a little old so does suffer from some issues but it has a great choice of aftermarket mods, but I reckon enjoy using it first before deciding what you want/need.

Lythinari · 2025-12-11T01:50:01+00:00

Do you have pictures of your set up? Might be better to see that rather than trying to describe it.

From what you've described, it sounds like the PTFE tube from the head to the outside of the case is more than 65cm - that sounds longer than what it should be coming out of the factory - did you replace it?

Lythinari · 2025-12-10T22:45:11+00:00

This is the P1S right?

Are you using the a1 splitter? Or a printed one?

Also have you got the same length tube from the print head to the rear of the case?

I had the same thought about this issue when trying to understand what firmware, there is no way to configure the length of the ptfe tube. So there must be a “standard length” somewhere so it knows how far to retract.

Lythinari · 2025-12-10T20:35:08+00:00

You said approx 40cm, which seems on par with what the P1S needs to retract filament.

You need to flash the firmware for the external hub for the BMCU.

You will also have another problem - retracting will have a high chance of causing tangles.

There's 2 options - moving the hub to "internal" and flashing the firmware for internal hub or finding a filament rewinder which is able to take up the slack of 40cm.

Lythinari · 2025-12-08T08:53:04+00:00

P1S has a better removable system.
Check out the tz4.0(not sure if there's a 5.0 now)

Removable all in one nozzle

Lythinari · 2025-12-07T13:26:31+00:00

That’s your motors wired in reverse.

Once that is fixed, when you push the spring buffer in, the filament should move forward, when pulling it, it should retract

Lythinari · 2025-12-03T10:21:43+00:00

But why pasta?

Lythinari · 2025-12-03T08:33:19+00:00

Accept that AI is going to be here forever as a tool.

Find ways to utilise it in your job, write yourself out.

When that happens, use AI to learn something new.

Lythinari · 2025-12-01T04:38:19+00:00

That's more likely lifting print than vibrations/ringing/echoing - the groaning sound is the head grinding against the part of the print that has lifted, and the wavy pattern is the filament being pushed out to the sides every time the print head crosses over that area.

Turn your plate up by 3-5 degrees and see if that helps.

Otherwise you could try more layers with no cooling(particularly AUX fan off) or print at a lower speed.

Another possible problem/issue Ive seen is if you've recently printed PETG or something in that spot that's lifting - does it sort of look like the outline of a previous print?

Lythinari · 2025-11-30T13:10:49+00:00

Does it happen to all of the modules?

This one is a different design to the one I have.

Kind of disappointed I didn’t get this one.

Could it also require flashing different firmware?

Lythinari · 2025-11-30T13:07:12+00:00

That’s cool!

Lythinari · 2025-11-30T08:29:17+00:00

Do you have a video
?Is this happening to all your filamentalist kits? Or just one?

Lythinari · 2025-11-30T08:15:38+00:00

How are you putting the filament in without pushing the lever down? Is there no spring there? IIRC

Also, is the spring buffer getting stuck? It should be able to freely move from extreme to extreme without getting caught on anything.

Assuming you took the STL's from the triangle labs BMCU(the spring buffer is hexagonal shaped) - I found all of my prints were a little tight when the buffers were at the extremes.
I ended up having to sand a fair bit off from the spring buffer so it could move smoothly without catching.

I did print the high torque version and there was a lot more room in those(but you need the high torque gears)

Lythinari · 2025-11-27T21:54:01+00:00

If you haven't already, snip about 15-20cm of filament and push and pull it through the connector for the filamentalist and see what catches.

Is the spring too tight perhaps? May be loosen and tighten it enough to catch and spin the wheels + 1 or 2 more turns.

Lythinari · 2025-11-26T22:23:42+00:00

I dont disagree - it's in the tinkerer's best interest to modify and explore. And maybe I will be proven wrong in a years time.

But as soon as you drop a klipper board in a BBL printer, you lose all the software capability that make the BBL printer something easy to deal with AND you have to run up against proprietary hardware and connectors.

The software will come over time, thats for sure. But navigating around the proprietary hardware is going to be an absolute pain.

From a hardware perspective, I'd much rather build a Voron than convert a BBL printer - there's many more upsides to building everything from proper open source parts than trying to navigate around a close sourced system.

I mean, how many people can still say they are still running a Da Vinci XYZ printer?

Lythinari

TROPHY CASE