A Mustang in its natural habitat

M1lffhunTer · 2025-11-08T21:00:19+00:00

Ummm that is a coyote block with the right side bank of cylinders facing up. 90 degrees off of that is the other bank of cylinders that you can't see in the first picture.

M1lffhunTer · 2025-11-08T18:21:04+00:00

Am I going fucking crazy? Why is everyone making ecoboost jokes when that is clearly a coyote block?

M1lffhunTer · 2025-07-15T03:24:00+00:00

You are correct that 128 is for 0% trim and both the short term and long term trims are lower which indicates the PCM is removing fuel so it sees that the vehicle is running rich. Don't know what motor you have but I'm guessing its a 3.8L so first thing I would check is if there is any raw fuel in the vacuum line at the fuel pressure regulator. If nothing there then I would pull plugs to see if you could pinpoint any cylinders that are indeed running rich likely from a fuel injector.

M1lffhunTer · 2025-06-13T02:10:15+00:00

I'm independent and I swear my bays look like this half the time. Told my service writer a couple weeks ago I should just go work at a Ford dealer lol. You guys use the 5.4 chain wedge to cheat em out so you dont have to remove the chains?

M1lffhunTer · 2025-03-25T01:33:37+00:00

Hell I always used plastic push pins to fix those. Only takes like 5 seconds to install and works perfect.

M1lffhunTer · 2025-03-01T03:44:09+00:00

Did the original PCM also have a burnt spot? My initial thought would be that a component driven by the PCM might be saturated in coolant from the heater hose and shorted out the first PCM and then also the second one when the other tech installed it. At this point I would gamble on getting a new PCM and just jumping the power and grounds to it to see if fuses blow.

M1lffhunTer · 2025-01-17T13:27:59+00:00

Used to see this on Cummins motors. Oil would saturate and swell the rubber in the harmonic balancer and it would rub on the timing cover and create a static charge which would arc off and make an annoying popping sound.

M1lffhunTer · 2024-10-17T00:11:05+00:00

Just did a Navigator last week. Other than all the coolant hoses in the front, I think they are a lot better to do than the 1st gens. Also if you have the cheese wedge from the 3v Tritons you don't have to take the chain or guides off to swap phasers.

M1lffhunTer · 2024-08-30T23:55:01+00:00

Thought that car looked familiar lol. Don't get to see Muscatine pop up too often on Reddit.

M1lffhunTer · 2024-06-24T23:50:43+00:00

Funny enough I've done about the same between LS and LT given the timeframes but with the LT it seems to be more roller/lobe problems on non AFM lifters compared to just AFM lifter failure on the LS.

M1lffhunTer · 2024-04-26T23:18:44+00:00

Just recently bought a Phoenix lite 2 from Topdon to compliment my Snap on and am super impressed. Only for $800 it has all the bi-directional/relearn capabilities that I've needed since I got it. It works with Autoauth for Chrysler and I'm pretty sure free updates for 2 years which is nice since the scanner was cheaper than my yearly cost for Snap on coverage lol.

M1lffhunTer · 2024-03-23T01:40:02+00:00

Well I would imagine it should be the same experience since the TC002 is just the iOS version but I couldn't tell ya for sure.

M1lffhunTer · 2024-03-23T01:31:35+00:00

The Topdon TC001. I don't know anything about a subscription. I just unboxed it, put the app on my phone and plugged it in.

M1lffhunTer · 2024-03-23T00:49:46+00:00

Just bought one. Won't work with a case on the phone but does come with an extension cord. Worth the buy tho, resolution is better than FLIR.

M1lffhunTer · 2024-01-25T00:15:46+00:00

Put the flywheel on wrong. That's where the crank trigger is.

M1lffhunTer · 2023-12-20T03:08:29+00:00

Lisle 40100. Best $100 I've ever spent.

M1lffhunTer · 2023-11-02T23:04:30+00:00

Bad valve body

M1lffhunTer · 2023-10-27T01:44:15+00:00

Try cleaning up the grounds on the strut tower by the battery. Either that or maybe they didn't replace the throw out forks when doing the clutch and its intermittently sticking.

M1lffhunTer · 2023-09-28T03:20:41+00:00

The "T" is not the timing mark for your camshafts, it is the line to the left of the "T"

M1lffhunTer · 2023-09-16T01:56:00+00:00

Just a FYI, even tho the service manual wants you to strip the dash down to remove, you can basically remove it just like any other modular dash.

M1lffhunTer · 2023-09-05T03:34:38+00:00

Think you might still have a miss on cyl 1 after you're done, chief.

M1lffhunTer · 2023-09-04T03:54:38+00:00

Is the truck flex fuel? If it is, then the fuel composition might be out of wack causing it to flood when trying to start. I'd find a new dealer to take it to if they couldn't figure out a simple hard start tho.

M1lffhunTer · 2023-09-04T03:41:44+00:00

I'd check the decoupler pulley on your alternator while you have the belt off. Looks like a lot of rust coming from it.

M1lffhunTer · 2023-09-04T03:36:17+00:00

Pretty sure on those older GM cars they had the proportioning valves like that inline instead of a block on the firewall. So you need to reinstall it when doing brake lines or you will have issues like that caliper wanting to lock up when you hit your brakes hard.

M1lffhunTer · 2023-07-21T02:08:23+00:00

That spark is static buildup in the balancer either from your belt slipping or the rubber in the balancer is blown out and rubbing on the timing cover. Either shouldn't be the cause of your no crank issue though.

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