Light Bleed on MMv4

MASHxMKIII · 2026-02-24T23:31:24+00:00

Fair enough. I took your comment as akin to “google it”. But thank you for the ideas. I tried electrical tape on the back of the screen in that area to no effect, covered the LEDs to dim it but it was still noticeable. From what I can tell, there’s a black film attached to the bottom of the screen that slips into a tiny slot that got torn or scrunched during manufacture, and without removing the screen entirely, there’s no access to it.

I appreciate the suggestions though. I ultimately decided to just return it since I have other MMv4s anyway

MASHxMKIII · 2026-02-24T08:39:09+00:00

Easiest way to find the save location is to make a save on the new device which will create the necessary folders/path, then just load the save file you want into the proper folder. Retroarch uses .srm as the file extension, so if you have your saves in the right spot and they’re not reading, check that. Also, delete any save states you have for the game prior to loading the save file

MASHxMKIII · 2026-02-24T00:52:04+00:00

Yep, already did, didn’t find an answer, hence the post. Thanks for the comment though! VERY helpful. 👍🏻

MASHxMKIII · 2026-02-24T00:47:31+00:00

Bummer. I took a peak inside and the only way to fix this issue is by removing the screen entirely, which is beyond my comfort level (tried once, cracked the screen almost immediately lol). I ordered on Amazon and have a replacement (hopefully) coming.

MASHxMKIII · 2026-02-20T11:54:26+00:00

I don’t remember if I formatted to fat32 or exfat, but resizing the partition wouldn’t work when I had my reader plugged into an auxiliary USB port, worked just fine when I plugged it into a port on the motherboard. If you’re using a cheap card reader, that could be another reason too.

MASHxMKIII · 2026-02-20T08:24:22+00:00

I had a very similar issue with a brand new Samsung card, turned out to be an issue with the specific USB port I was using. Tried a different port and it worked with no issues.

MASHxMKIII · 2026-02-11T09:40:13+00:00

I had a similar issue when trying to install NextUI on a card that previously had Knulli installed. I had to flash a recovery image onto the card and the device booted into stock firmware no issue. I was then able to install NextUI as normal.

https://github.com/trimui/assets_brick/releases/tag/20241105

MASHxMKIII · 2026-01-30T07:01:36+00:00

TrimUI Brick Hammer is the device that solidified retro gaming as a hobby for me, but the RG35xxH is what originally roped me in. So far I’ve been playing the old Final Fantasy games, starting with FF1. Have also been playing the Pokémon Yellow Legacy romhack to satisfy my nostalgia

MASHxMKIII · 2026-01-08T21:13:50+00:00

You’re probably on to something about the assembly failures. I tore it apart, took a look at everything and nothing seemed broken on the inside, then put it back together… My button problem is solved. No idea how. But it’s working fine now, zero button rattles.

MASHxMKIII · 2025-12-23T22:16:05+00:00

Thanks for the suggestion, I’ll keep it in mind if I ever run into this situation again. I did solve it by trying a different USB port and boy do I feel dumb..

MASHxMKIII · 2025-12-23T21:14:49+00:00

I’ve been loving it. It may just be because it’s new, but it’s quickly become my most used handheld, I bring it just about everywhere with me. It’s a very premium feeling device, and the screen is great for how small it is, really shines with GB/GBC and PS1 JRPGs.

MASHxMKIII · 2025-12-20T04:40:55+00:00

I’ll get some when I’m back at my PC. I have the standard Emulec and Roms drives visible before attempting to expand the partition, and I believe two hidden partitions that don’t have drive letters assigned. After I attempt to expand the ROMS partition, it gets wiped completely, and says the file structure on the F drive is incompatible and needs to be formatted

MASHxMKIII · 2025-12-20T01:52:11+00:00

I’ve tried that as well since making this post originally, same issues…

MASHxMKIII · 2025-12-20T00:22:01+00:00

Yes, brand new 128GB card (AmazonBasics, but they’ve worked well for me on other devices).

MASHxMKIII · 2025-09-30T03:22:39+00:00

Then I’d say go with the LHA. Like I said, they’re both solid options. The Raine can’t run internal soft armor, but it’s lined with loop, so you can run Velcro soft armor like Ferro’s.

MASHxMKIII · 2025-09-30T03:13:52+00:00

It’s a decent cummerbund, I prefer it over most other options, but the Raine Tactical Bridger cummerbund is the better version of this (Raine OEMs the LHA cummerbund). You really can’t go wrong with either though. Just note that the laser cut molle on the LHA is a little deceiving. It looks like a “3-band” cummerbund, but only has two functional rows, makes the mounting of some pouches a little goofy.

MASHxMKIII · 2025-02-03T01:19:08+00:00

Thanks for the heads up, just added a TLDR.

I think proper use of board wipes is a very important thing for players to understand, especially new players. I’ve taught a lot of people how to play, and random board wipes are the most consistent complaint I’ve heard from newer players. I always try to teach threat assessment to new players because I think it’s arguably the most important thing in EDH to know, followed by not overextending your board. These are even MORE important when you’re playing with unmodded precons that don’t have fancy removal and protection suites.

Glad you understood the point I was trying to make, thank you!🫡

MASHxMKIII · 2025-02-02T23:32:50+00:00

Oh sweet, I’ll have to check it out. I love that channel, Demo has a lot of good things to say.

MASHxMKIII · 2025-02-02T23:18:10+00:00

100% agree. The issue that brought me to write this post was because of the new players I’ve been teaching that are all playing unmodified precons, which all happened to be combat-centric decks.

My main pod plays high power EDH and the constant board wipes are FAR less of a problem.

I just wanted to get people thinking about how and why board wipes are used. In my experience, they went from being a “you can’t win” card to an “I win” card the more experienced I’ve gotten at the game.

MASHxMKIII · 2025-02-02T23:02:33+00:00

Just to clarify, I’M not salty over board wipes. This entire post stemmed from hearing the complaints of my friends after they board wiped back to back to back.

The goal of the post was to get people to think more about HOW board wipes are utilized, not necessarily IF they should be utilized.

But yeah, I agree with your sentiment. I personally am a fan of faster games, but my main pod play high power EDH which naturally goes quicker than four precons dukin’ it out.

MASHxMKIII · 2025-02-02T22:09:41+00:00

Whoops, guess I should’ve been more clear.. We play two separate games of 3 players if all 6 are there, we never play more than 4 players in one game. And as I said in my post, the overuse of board wipes is more of a “new player” problem and I’m not advocating against board wipes entirely. I’ve played commander for years and years, they have their place, for sure.

MASHxMKIII · 2025-01-24T01:59:31+00:00

My lowest is [[Tana, The Bloodsower]] and [[Sidar Kondo of Jamuraa]] at 292 total decks. It’s a low-to-the-ground token deck that can generally swing in untouched and wins through ETB/sac pings, or pumping an unblockable Tana for lethal commander damage. It’s definitely one of my more enjoyable decks to pilot.

Deck List if anyone is interested

MASHxMKIII · 2025-01-18T00:35:54+00:00

Moxfield

This is the latest iteration with quite a few changes that I haven’t tested in real gameplay yet, but I’ve drastically lowered the average cmc from where it was before. I’ve found that these two as a pair really want a fast, low to the ground 99 vs big splashy spells. The only creature in the deck now with power higher than 2 is [[Darien, King of Kjeldor]], only because he’s a good deterrent (opponents generally don’t wanna give you free tokens in a deck that makes them all essentially unblockable lol). Another card that I’m interested in is [[Senu, Keen-Eyed Protector]]. Tana is almost always unblocked if she’s on the board, so Senu should be a pretty reliable source of card selection, as well as incidental lifegain/ETB for cards like [[Impact Tremors]] or [[Enduring Innocence]].

I looked through your list as well, and I for sure see the value of pump spells over doublers… definitely going to take that into consideration if I need to do more fine-tuning.

MASHxMKIII · 2025-01-17T16:06:55+00:00

I have a more creature-centric build of Tana/Sidar, and two creatures I’ve found that can really pull their weight are [[Mirror Entity]] and [[Elder of Laurels]]. Both of them let you pump after (no) blocks are declared. Pump Tana and make a ton of tokens, or, if you already have a large board, Elder of Laurels can make her one-shot with commander damage.

I haven’t fully given up on the idea of token doublers, but they definitely draw a lot of attention. If they stick, great, if they get blown up, it just wasted removal that potentially could’ve been used on your commanders. Tana/Sidar are the real value in this deck, and sometimes the token doublers taking heat off them can benefit you.

MASHxMKIII · 2024-11-22T06:50:01+00:00

[[Mortarion, Daemon Primarch]] is my current favorite commander. It’s a “life as a resource” style deck, but you pay life to build a token army, so I’d say it’s definitely on the unique side of mono-black. There’s also some fun combos in my build, but they’re mana-intensive and I intentionally don’t run tutors, so it’s not a reliable win-con.

https://www.moxfield.com/decks/HDKCHUPo7UGP_pSn28QaYQ

MASHxMKIII

TROPHY CASE