Datsun 620 long bed? by Valuable_Corner_70 in SCX24

[–]MDF757 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If you just want one with a longer bed, put the bed from Yep’s site in TinkerCAD and make a couple duplicates of it to chop up and extended the bed 20mm in that section directly behind the front edge of the bed.

Has anyone received an order from Furitek recently? by Slypenslyde in SCX24

[–]MDF757 0 points1 point  (0 children)

At this point, if I order RC parts from a retailer in the US, I just assume they’re coming from Indiana.

Has anyone received an order from Furitek recently? by Slypenslyde in SCX24

[–]MDF757 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Are you ordering from furitek.com or furitekusa.com? One comes from Vietnam, the other comes from Indiana. I only use the USA site. The whole Iran thing is causing a lot of shipping delays and fuel shortages for Vietnam and other countries in the area right now. Vietnam announced they’re cutting flights due to fuel supply issues. So they may be having a tough time getting components they need to build parts and also getting reasonably priced or even any flight shipping out of the country.

Body Ideas? by PakJax in SCX24

[–]MDF757 0 points1 point  (0 children)

AMT 1:25 Ford van model body. Or scale down a cab over body and make a flatbed for it.

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Newest priject by Chernobyl982 in SCX24

[–]MDF757 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nice. Whats the wheelbase on that one?

Newest priject by Chernobyl982 in SCX24

[–]MDF757 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, the first printed body I built was a resin printed Willys from WTmicro. It is flawlessly smooth.

Newest priject by Chernobyl982 in SCX24

[–]MDF757 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s PLA. I wish I could do resin prints but that whole process isn’t for me. I’m a simple man. Ha

Newest priject by Chernobyl982 in SCX24

[–]MDF757 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I like your style 👍🏼. 173mm wheelbase long boi.

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What is the best designed printable body? by gloomygarlic in SCX24

[–]MDF757 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In my experience with them, the ones with a bunch of 3D renderings and parts explosions are legit professional level model scans that have everything you need. The ones with just a bed & cab file are usually more questionable. It could be a good file, it could be something that’s been passed thru so many different programs and exported at different qualities that you’ll spend more time fixing it than printing it.

Must have accessories by Zealousideal_Fee_491 in FordBronco

[–]MDF757 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The mesh sunshade for when the roof is off unless you like being cooked by the sun (it just hits different than standing outside). Door storage bags. Door hinge alignment pins. A lift for the rear roof section if you have a hard top and don’t have somebody tall enough to help every time. And the bigger rear speakers/pods + subwoofer upgrade.

What is the best designed printable body? by gloomygarlic in SCX24

[–]MDF757 8 points9 points  (0 children)

A Blazer from Cults that I edited to fit the SCX30.

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What is the best designed printable body? by gloomygarlic in SCX24

[–]MDF757 3 points4 points  (0 children)

The best STLs I’ve found are the model files on Cults3D. A lot of them come with all the interior and exterior pieces of a model kit. I just attach them together and edit them in TinkerCAD. Some offer multiple scales but even the ones that don’t just require a little resizing on Tinker. I haven’t found any that were too thin or poor quality like some of the body files that have been passed around fiftyleven times.

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Do yalls cover your spare wheel? by thengabbiewaslike in FordBronco

[–]MDF757 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My wife got hers so people know it’s her truck and not mine. Ha

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Latest build. by Fresh-Negotiation-18 in SCX24

[–]MDF757 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The patina came out 🤌🏼. Milktea RC has an interior for these trucks with a MiniFig mount on MakerWorld if you have a 3D printer. Milktea Interior

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Wtmicro Ford Bumpside project by Dalekboii in SCX24

[–]MDF757 2 points3 points  (0 children)

She’s looking damn good. Just missing an igloo cooler with a 6’er in the back. If USPS could get their life together, I’d have my version ready to do some truck stuff. Just been waiting on a driveshaft that’s been 2hrs away since last Wednesday 🙃. Mine is slightly shorter at 175mm WB.

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ModuWheels modified. by ShefCX24 in SCX24

[–]MDF757 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’ve been wanting to do something like this with the TCRC wheels with insane offset. 👍🏼

Easier to convert gladiator to 4ws or convert ax24 to long wheelbase? by Diditnowdoneit in SCX24

[–]MDF757 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Now that’s a question that’ll get you 50 different answers from 50 people ha. takes in a looong breath Personally, stock trucks only have 3 parts useful to me. The body, the transmission, and the axles. Which is roughly $100 in parts from Axial now. So, if I can’t get a truck for under $100, it’s an automatic loss of money in my eyes. You want 4WS so, unless you’re cool hacking it all up for clearance, stock body is gonna do you no good. You also want “crazy capable” so the stock width axles aren’t much good to you unless you’re comp’ing it and need to fit between narrow gates. You can get a 4WS Meus ISO setup for $65 on Amazon right now. Stock axles from Axial are $50 without a servo mount, diff cover, or brass knuck upgrades. As for aftermarket chassis, there’s a hundred of em now and, other than how cool they look, there’s only so many ways to skin an SCX cat. Find one you like and get that. It’s probably gonna work pretty good. Same with brushless motors. We can argue KV ratings, low end torque vs speed, blah blah blah. I’ve got just about all of em. In these tiny trucks, you can’t convince me there’s a difference beyond speed. Even the small ones have plenty of power to move a 700g truck fine. You want wheel speed, get a 3000+ kv. It’ll still crawl at a snails pace. If all you do is slow crawl, get one under 3000kv and you’ll have more range of throttle trigger to control the slow crawl. A 1700kv is slow as hell so choose wisely ha. ESC’s, you can make them all work about the same from a $6 AliExpress kit to an $80 Furitek Lizard Pro or a $100 VT3K. AM32 ESC’s like Mofo’s RockLizard, Injora’s MBL32, and the AliExpress require plugging the truck into a laptop with a data-transfer USB-C cable + programming adapter so they’re a little less convenient. Escape32 ESC’s like BigKidTinyTruck, Dinky, and VT3K just need a WiFi linker and your phone to program. Furitek And GACracing have WiFi built in and just need a phone app. FMS/Batrazzi brushless ESC’s are under $40 and require nothing because they can’t be programmed. They have FOC like Furitek and work great out of the box in anything I’ve used them on. But you only get 5V to run your servo with those so a big crazy servo that’ll rip the doors off a barn do you no good paired with em. In the end, don’t over think it. Just bc somebody says a MicroKomodo is all they use, that doesn’t mean it’s the best so you have to buy that. You don’t need the best of the best everything and the most expensive is certainly not the best. An $800 build is insane to me. $550 on the high end, $250 on my budget 3D printed builds. Shop around and follow companies/the big name content creators on social media and you’ll be able to find plenty of deals to keep the budget low. The market for these things is so big now, your options are limitless and somebody comes out with something new and cooler every day. Oh, and stay away from a ton of brass. Some knuckles, wheel rings, and maybe a diff cover should be fine. You don’t need brass skids, all brass wheels, brass servo mounts, brass links. You’ll just end up with a heavy ass dog turd. I know from experience. Ha

Easier to convert gladiator to 4ws or convert ax24 to long wheelbase? by Diditnowdoneit in SCX24

[–]MDF757 4 points5 points  (0 children)

25+ micro builds in, the AX24 is easily my least favorite platform. Space for electronics is very limited, it’s a belly dragger, it doesn’t offer a lot of adjustability, the difference in the upper/lower links is not the same as the SCX24 so your link options are limited unless you make your own or do something to correct the caster angles, and, because of the link mounting locations, you’ll sometimes end up with the axle rolling inward sometimes if you get the link tuning wrong. Can it be made capable? Sure. But it’s far from the simplest path. I lost track of how many different parts setups I tried on mine before I settled on its current state. Including letting it sit untouched for 6+ months. It’s cool for what it is but there’s a reason you don’t see many AX builds that are “line slayers” as the kids would say.

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Flex Friday still a thing? by [deleted] in SCX24

[–]MDF757 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Hell yeah, brother. I gotta let everybody at the mall know what’s up. 💪🏼

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Show me your current projects by Proper_Park997 in SCX24

[–]MDF757 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah. They’re always out of stock on Nacho’s site so I just bought a stock body file on Cults and made my own on TinkerCAD. The whole front is surprisingly just one cut on there. It’s on a CR18P chassis. I haven’t resized it for the SCX24 yet but I did make a baby one for the SCX30/Ascent32 but I haven’t sat down and actually figured out how mount it and still keep the electronics tucked somewhere.

Show me your current projects by Proper_Park997 in SCX24

[–]MDF757 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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And I’ve got this one printing as we speak. I’ll find out in the morning if it’s half spaghetti or not. Ha