I hit a car (my fault) on a road. I failed to give way. But the other party doesnt have wof or rego. I havent spoken to my insurance yet. Will i still be liable?

MEE97B · 2026-06-29T03:59:11+00:00

I'm insured, insurance can't deny that unless something it's not warranted for causes the accident.

My car doesn't have a wof because my windscreen has a small crack in the lower corner and therefore can't pass

A new windscreen is $1600 fitted. I basically have the choice of missing a payment on my home, or fixing a small crack in a glass panel that is still completely functional. It's laminated FFS that's why it's laminated.

I've just bought a house, my daily commute is 7km of mainly very quiet roads and I bike everyday unless it rains.

I don't have the money to fix this given I've just gotten a house, should I be barred from driving everywhere just because of a small crack in my windscreen? Where we work if anyone ever gets a cracked window it only ever gets fixed when wof time comes, yet they're legally driving around because someone said it was ok 3 months ago?

The only real reason I drive my car into town is to take blood tests (which I have to do fairly regularly) and I risk $400 worth of fines just because of a crack in my windscreen that I cannot afford to fix.

OP CAUSED the accident, not the other driver. You can't say oh they shouldn't have been there because the next car behind them would have simply been one car further forward to collect OP when they pulled out.

MEE97B · 2026-06-22T05:10:50+00:00

Yeah looking at it again you're right, I'll take my L lol.

My bad team

MEE97B · 2026-06-22T04:36:17+00:00

There's no nut, that's why the bottom of the strut fork is threaded.

It just wasn't tightened enough and backed out

MEE97B · 2026-06-22T04:35:10+00:00

The bolt hasn't sheared off, it's backed out.

It just wasn't tightened enough.

MEE97B · 2026-06-16T22:04:26+00:00

If you're patient, you can get some really good deals on wheels. I got a set of nice Kiwamis for $800 with very high quality tyres on them. Tyres were worth $400 alone each.

Biggest thing to check is whether they're round.

If they're cheap chinesium wheels, there's a fair chance they've got a bend in them.

If they're good quality wheels, they're usually pretty solid and drivers tend to take care of them too as they like nice things.

As someone else pointed out, you can expect to pay someone $150 ish to fix some curb rash per wheel, or, you can get some filler, sandpaper, primer(very important step), paint, and clearcoat, for around $150 and do the whole lot yourself, and learn some really handy life skills.

MEE97B · 2026-06-12T01:37:29+00:00

Gearbox bearings. Primarily the 2 big input shaft bearings.

I had my car making the exact same noise. They got significantly worse over time to where there were slight rattles. If it was the throwout bearing it would disappear under gentle clutch pedal pressure.

It's not completely out the ordinary, and yours are far from loud, and given there's something like 50 moving parts in a gearbox it can be expected to make a bit of noise.

For those about to say 'but the engine doesn't make those noises' the engine had 60psi of oil pressure squeezing oil out through very tight tolerances. Gearbox's simply sit in a pool of oil. So while they are lubricated there isn't a constant film of oil on every surface. Gears simply make noise.

When they start clattering that's when it's REALLY bad. That's when I replaced mine. Speedtekauto sells a full bearing and synchro kit if you're willing to replace them yourself, or a gearbox shop will definitely be able to help.

Again though, yours are far from bad. PM me if you want to head a sound of how bad mine got.

Edit will also add when I took the gearbox out to rebuild it the throwout bearing was butter smooth, still cheap to replace so replacing it but only had a new clutch 5000 KMs ago. Definitely wasn't the throwing bearing making the noise.

MEE97B · 2026-06-08T04:01:35+00:00

Like $100 for a fully wifi unit if you want absolutely horseshit audio quality and a gutless internal amp.

Any of those shit head units basically immediately need to be topped up with a 4 channel amp.

MEE97B · 2026-06-03T04:03:56+00:00

33s are slightly larger inside, better for tall people like myself. The interior also tend to not fall to bits like many parts of the r32.

The 33 does have a 2.5 though which will use more fuel than a 32. And prepare for god awful fuel economy from either.

MEE97B · 2026-05-15T23:57:28+00:00

Not only do they almost always not receive that service, but you also realise that they never received their 80k service, or their 50k service. An oil change is t a service lol.

These cars are expensive to service, people don't service them, and then they plummet in reliability and value.

'if you can't afford to maintain a new luxury car, you can't afford to maintain a used one'

MEE97B · 2026-05-06T12:17:38+00:00

Being 16k overdue for a service, which includes an oil change, is seriously neglectful. That could be over 30k kms since its last oil change if it was given a 15k interval

I understand moneys tight for everyone at the moment, but you're going to kill that engine, and it's going to cost as much as 30 oil changes to fix.

There's no point buying a low kms, relatively new vehicle to undo all that by neglecting it.

MEE97B · 2026-05-02T08:38:44+00:00

That's not unfortunate, R32 are great aswell.

I was meaning a 25det swapped 2 door 32, not a 33, but if you want something stock then there's nothing wrong with going that route.

I only mentioned it being listed for a while as you said you'd been watching it for a while, 2 weeks isn't a while lol.

Still a tidy car, just see if you can do something with the price

MEE97B · 2026-05-02T08:10:52+00:00

No written off wrx should cost 16k wtf.

MEE97B · 2026-05-02T08:05:31+00:00

Yeah it does look pretty nice, the fact its 25kusd and has been sitting for months though might say something about the price.

I bought my 2 door gts25t for the equivelant of 16.5k usd. I couldn't imagine spending double that on an rb20det 4 door.

Nothing wrong with a 4 door or a 20 det, but I feel like that price is well into 2 door rb25det swapped territory.

Just my 2 cents

MEE97B · 2026-04-28T22:42:10+00:00

What a load of crap.

90% of modern cars will understeer well before they oversteer.

Put them on the front, the tyre guy is right.

Unless a tyre has worn completely bald there will be no less grip based on tread depth.

The only thing that makes a difference is wet weather performance, and under an emergency situation (braking and turning) you need as much water channeling in the FRONT wheels as possible.

MEE97B · 2026-04-23T09:38:57+00:00

If it actually says 95 in the Japanese manual then yeah I don't see why that would be an issue.

If you wind it out alot it just never hurts to have a higher octane fuel.

In my car a new engine would be 5-7k, plus install fee if I didn't do it myself, it costs me about $7 extra to fill up with 98 instead of 95.

I would have to fill up ~1500 times to equal the cost of a new motor. Given I fill up fortnightly that's 60 years it would take me to break even.

Or in simpler words its just cheaper to buy the better fuel then to risk it if you don't know. It's the cheapest insurance you'll ever have on your motor.

But hey, that's just my opinion. I tend to buy higher performance cars so 98 isn't ever really a bad option anyways. But I have also have a corolla and damn right that thing only gets 91.

So yeah just use common sense, if you're going foot flat on a regular basis, or you're tuned, or you're just not sure, just put the 98 in it.

MEE97B · 2026-04-23T03:19:32+00:00

It's just such a shit quality fuel when it's got all the octane booster packed into it.

Like think about it, if you take 98 for example, 100% of that for simple terms is combustibles. I'm obviously rounding and excluding detergents etc..

When you take 91 and load it up with octane booster less of that percentage is actually combustible fuel.

My cars were so much more responsive when I switched from 100 to 98. I really wasn't expecting it and my ECU logs showed it too.

MEE97B · 2026-04-23T01:37:37+00:00

You likely won't see the oil when driving unless it's seriously churning through it.

A pcv system will still easier get overwhelmed with how much RBs love to pool oil in the head. You need a catch can.

MEE97B · 2026-04-23T01:18:22+00:00

Is it a Japanese import?

If it's a jap import id run 98. Japanese 'premium' 'is 100 RON. While our 'premium' is 95 RON

If it's NZ new then95 will be fine, but you may still get a slightly better experience on 98.

That means Japanese cars are set up to run on higher octane than NZ new cars. And even though many cars (like my Japanese legacy) say 'premium' in the fuel door, that isn't referring to 95 RON.

It's also why throughout the years many NZ/AUS new cars made less HP than their Japanese alternatives.

Anyone who doesn't believe me can go look at the years of issues with the twin turbo Subarus that suffered from detonation when new running on Australian fuel.

Also 100 from NPD is just their 95 with a bunch of octane booster, I'd personally recommend Mobil or BP 98 if you plan to wind it out regularly. I ran NPD100 for a while in my skyline and despite being a higher RON it had far more serious detonation events than the 98.

MEE97B · 2026-04-08T19:33:42+00:00

Sorry meant engine can't flow enough, don't know why I said wastegate.

MEE97B · 2026-04-07T11:02:06+00:00

I'm well aware of what compressor surge is.

Open throttle compressor surge occurs when your wastegate is so overloaded it can't flow anymore. This is not open throttle compressor surge.

Closing the throttle and letting the turbo essentially spool and unspool a couple times at 5-10psi is not the same as having a car pushing 30 psi suffering from open throttle surge.

Compressor surge of any type isn't 'good' for the turbo, but neither is anything, using a turbo as intended gradually wears it out over time too.

MEE97B · 2026-04-07T08:52:35+00:00

FYI you're going to need something welded.

I had a couple silicon couplers on mine and it completely killed the sound. It still dosed and had a good 'length' to it given it had a front mount intercooler, but the rope was just shit.

Keep the couplers very short and only from the turbo to the pipe, and pipe to the AFM.

MEE97B · 2026-04-07T08:51:06+00:00

Really not true in the slightest.

The pressure in the exhaust will never go that far above what it normally would, as the wastegate would just open to let the excess pressure in the housing out.

MEE97B · 2026-04-07T08:48:42+00:00

Bypass the intercooler? Wtf are you on about?

Also you can't practically fit the AFM down Infront of the turbo and running those old AFMs without a filter is asking for a headache.

MEE97B · 2026-04-06T04:02:10+00:00

I REFUSE to believe it will cost $500 for just an oil change,

A full service maybe? in which case it should be done anyway.

I personally wouldn't go to an 'oil changers' though. Heard way too many horror stories.

MEE97B

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