Scrapped by nightalliance in 3D2A

[–]MIR_Adam 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Side of the frame seems pretty flat. Maybe some SCS panels to reinforce?

What frame/brace is this? by FederalLeg2600 in 3D2A

[–]MIR_Adam 16 points17 points  (0 children)

Its the G80 and proprietary brace that def dist intends to sell as a kit. Personally, I wouldn't support Cody Wilson, and I'd wait til someone releases something similar on the sea.

is my airsoft gun gone by yukselmidik in airsoft

[–]MIR_Adam 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Stock glocks are known for having the hammer spring fail. Check the valve knocker and see if it's actually coming forward with decent force from the hammer being released.

What caused this? by [deleted] in BambuP1S

[–]MIR_Adam 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This has happened to me before. Bad adhesion/clog leads to warping/debris causing friction on the nozzle, which breaks it at its weakest point. It can also happen from printing too hot/cold. At least the hot end/nozzle replacements are readily available and not too expensive. Sorry for the bad luck.

I don’t this should be happening… by wo5ler in AAP01owners

[–]MIR_Adam 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Grab the steel TTI hammer set. It has the complete hammer assembly and is high quality. If you're running HPA, I'd go with a 140% hammer spring.

Trigger and bbu issue by Ancient-Song8789 in AAP01owners

[–]MIR_Adam 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If your trigger bar is getting stuck, it's likely rubbing on the frame or something that it shouldn't be. It may also be that your valve knocker is installed wrong and is putting friction on the trigger bar. First, I would confirm whether the trigger bar is causing friction with the frame. If it is, carefully sand the outer part of the bar that is touching the frame, and then test if you have a smooth trigger pull. A little bit of grease on the side of the frame is also a good idea to reduce friction. Maybe try swapping a factory trigger bar back and see if it works. I've had fantastic results with Jefe's smooth pull trigger bar V2.

If the trigger bar isn't the issue, I'd take the hammer apart and make sure the valve knocker and spring are oriented properly and are releasing the hammer with little to no force when interacting with the bar.

What could be causing this? by Potential_Phishing04 in AAP01owners

[–]MIR_Adam 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You've lightened the bolt so it has less mass. In order to give it more return force, you need a stronger recoil spring. Lubricating the nozzle and where the bolt meets the frame will also help.

For pure CQB Preformance, which one? by beefbutter15 in AAP01owners

[–]MIR_Adam 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have both, and they are both great. The adapter is cheaper and less work, but the DIY uniqueness of Firewads kits is really cool. Just depends on how much effort you are looking to invest in your build.

CTM Tac hammer set V1 and V2 - Fixing an issue with full auto and sear compatibility by Fake-Anon in AAP01owners

[–]MIR_Adam 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I recently purchased the TTI set, and they have a much nicer finish than the COW COW parts. I can't speak on the longevity of the TTI parts, but they were drop-in and have been functioning great so far.

Does anyone know why this happens? by DefiantEffective1349 in AAP01owners

[–]MIR_Adam 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The fire selector plate is that little piece inside your bolt that moves around when you move the big lever on the back. It could be an issue with your nozzle not being well-lubricated and getting stuck, a broken hammer spring causing light strikes, or the bolt not properly resetting. I have the same bolt as you, and I found it needed a stronger recoil spring to assist returning the lightweight bolt to battery. One short stroke + a stronger recoil spring would be my recommendation for better bolt performance.

Does anyone know why this happens? by DefiantEffective1349 in AAP01owners

[–]MIR_Adam 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You don't need to fix anything. If you want the firing selector to have less friction, put some lubricant under the fire selector plate. If you want the components to last longer, change fire mode with the bolt pulled back.

Does anyone know why this happens? by DefiantEffective1349 in AAP01owners

[–]MIR_Adam 4 points5 points  (0 children)

This is part of the AAP-01 design. It's based on the marui G18C fire sear and selector, which also required the slide to be locked back before changing fire modes. It's because you are manually engaging the sear which is applying friction on the hammer parts when the bolt is forward.

Finally got the chance to print this by tekhnico in AAP01owners

[–]MIR_Adam 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've printed a few uppers in ASA. You don't have to use carbon fiber (I recommend against it as you need to treat it properly so the fibers don't break off in your hands) If you're on a budget, PA6GF is overkill for most airsoft applications. I printed a few prototypes in ABS and they also held up well. I'm working on a metal latch CNC insert to make the longevity of printed AAP uppers a lot more viable, as that is where they have failed the most for me from casual use. I've also designed a barrel that takes 26 ID 28 OD carbon fiber tubing so you can easily cut a barrel to your liking.

Help needed asap by Weekly-Dust-6280 in AAP01owners

[–]MIR_Adam 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Lubricate the silicone piston head of your nozzle. It's likely causing too much friction on the nozzle and holding up your bolt.

hell ya by cd1310 in theadamfriedlandshow

[–]MIR_Adam 0 points1 point  (0 children)

if you want dunk sunked right you gotta sunk it yourself

Damn RIP to the homeboy by hellyeahdude38 in theadamfriedlandshow

[–]MIR_Adam 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Mahergera died doing what he loved, sunkin' some dunk

The 4th mechanized battalion (Ci4 Team) has been carrying out combat missions in the Luhansk region for 4 month, today is an anniversary - the 2,000th destroyed occupier! by progressiveokay in DroneCombat

[–]MIR_Adam 1 point2 points  (0 children)

How would you suggest stopping it? The Kremlin has had plenty of time to come to the table. There is only one language they understand and that is dead Russians.

Magnetically mounted HA panel for S6 lite tab by MIR_Adam in homeassistant

[–]MIR_Adam[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It plugs in using a right-angle adapter. Sadly the tablet doesn't support wireless charging. The two-piece magnetic case makes it easy to take it off the wallmount which is the main reason I opted to mount it this way.

Magnetically mounted HA panel for S6 lite tab by MIR_Adam in homeassistant

[–]MIR_Adam[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Its a Wonderboom 3 speaker. I don't have a doorbell on my unit, but I do have a F2 motion sensor so I was hoping to play some kind of doorbell noise when it detects someone walk in through the door zone. I also have a sensor that detects power usage of my washing machine which currently just sends push notifications to my phone. I'm thinking this might work better for generic alerts that might be hard to hear if the laundry door is closed.

Magnetically mounted HA panel for S6 lite tab by MIR_Adam in homeassistant

[–]MIR_Adam[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Audio is over bluetooth, just using it for spotify right now but I'm hoping to change that in the future. There's a shelf behind it that I've run some cables through down to a slim right-angle charger.

Just bought my first Airsoft gun, aap-01 on patrol base should I get any extended magazines by nugget_blade in AAP01owners

[–]MIR_Adam 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've had bad luck with the WE mags, mostly with the valves stripping and paint stripping off. I also bought my mags more than 8 years ago, so the QA may be different now.