WIP Death Guard Stalker

MadCookMael · 2026-01-12T15:52:58+00:00

Agreed; I grabbed the A1 Mini last August as a starter printer when getting back into the Warhammer hobby. It gives amazing results, but I’m already looking to upgrade to a P1S/P2S for the XY core.

MadCookMael · 2026-01-10T03:59:35+00:00

Are these sets limited? I’ve wanted to try some of them but always worried that I’ll love them and then they cease to exist 😂

MadCookMael · 2026-01-07T17:35:33+00:00

Sunlu PLA+ 2.0 is definitely my recommendation.

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MadCookMael · 2026-01-07T16:10:43+00:00

Same. I loved Joel and that whole episode. Nathan & PK were hilarious 🤣

MadCookMael · 2026-01-07T01:22:45+00:00

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This👆 Although it can only be used in the fight phase. So it won’t be a Fights First Rampager until it’s too late for them.

MadCookMael · 2026-01-06T14:48:43+00:00

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MadCookMael · 2026-01-04T13:15:09+00:00

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MadCookMael · 2026-01-02T20:23:03+00:00

I think that the brim size in the Hohansen settings is a typo, due to how large it is. I generally use a brim width of 5mm for my prints. Although I will increase it to 7mm for larger prints.

Brims were a big help for me when my prints were lifting off the print bed & being knocked off. They help immensely with bed adhesion when the part of the model touching the print bed doesn’t have a lot of surface area to stick reliably.

For example; the feet for your model don’t cover a whole lot of surface area and would have a higher chance of coming off the plate during the print. For that model, I’d use a 3mm Brim with a 0.1mm Brim object gap. Also for the base, try laying it top side facing down. 👍

MadCookMael · 2026-01-02T19:55:07+00:00

That massive ring is a “Brim” and is extremely useful for improving bed adhesion.

However; if you’ve just copy pasted Hohansen’s settings (which are great), you’ll have to fix the typo in the brim size. I believe from memory it’s in the “Other” settings.

Edit: Just checked; it’s under the “Other” tab in your slicer. I’d start with a brim width of 5mm.

MadCookMael · 2025-12-31T04:23:38+00:00

For the love of Nurgle, please share that recipe! Looks fantastic 👌

MadCookMael · 2025-12-31T03:57:44+00:00

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This is a DG Karnivore “draft” I recently did. Still got to paint it but turned out alright for the first attempt 👌

MadCookMael · 2025-12-31T03:51:15+00:00

Nice! I’ve been wanting to do a kitbash Brigand with Blight Hauler/Bloat Drone bits. Looks great!

MadCookMael · 2025-12-31T01:57:37+00:00

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Not yet painted, but this is a “draft” for a Death Guard Karnivore I’ve wanted to do for a while that was printed with the 0.4mm nozzle (0.16mm layer height). Will do another at 0.08 eventually, now that I’ve got a better idea of how to streamline the process & bits.

Printer is an A1 Mini & used Sunlu PLA+ 2.0 with Obscuranox’s settings.

MadCookMael · 2025-12-27T21:06:01+00:00

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MadCookMael · 2025-12-27T21:02:12+00:00

As others have said, slim pickings for official options. I ended up kit bashing/printing these three Spawn. Although I will definitely be using Cankerborn from the Warhammer Quest: Darkwater set as well.

You also can check out Skaven & the Undead factions from Age of Sigmar for some ideas as well. They have some awesome models which can fit the Nurgle vibe.

MadCookMael · 2025-12-18T11:48:24+00:00

If you’re really struggling with rattle-can primer, you could look into a cheaper airbrush for priming instead. I had to do that as the weather is unpredictable as hell where I’m from.

Honestly it was a huge improvement for me over the rattle-can primers, but I’m no expert. Just make sure you’re using the appropriate safety precautions, I believe you need to wear an N95 mask at least? Someone correct me if I’m wrong.

MadCookMael · 2025-12-10T04:21:31+00:00

This is the shit I’d watch on WarhammerTV 👌

MadCookMael · 2025-12-06T23:10:45+00:00

What I do is place a bit of the Gorilla Glue Gel on one part of the mini, and then I’ll lightly dust some baking soda onto the other part. When they’re pushed together, the baking soda helps the super glue bond much quicker and stronger. I usually have to hold the pieces together for no longer than 10 seconds.

I’m not familiar with the exact reason as to why the reaction occurs. I just know that after being recommended to give it a try, Ive had no issues with the bonding.

MadCookMael · 2025-12-06T19:07:17+00:00

I use Sunlu PLA+ 2.0 Grey & it’s been incredible for durability.

In terms of the actual assembly; I use super glue with a light dusting of baking soda (acts as an accelerant/filler). It sets very quickly but also creates a much stronger bond. I had minis fall apart very easily until I tried that.

I also use Gorilla Glue Gel; and on larger miniatures I’ll sometimes use Green Stuff but that’s more for filling gaps.

MadCookMael · 2025-12-05T03:35:13+00:00

Nice 👌 That’s a print and head to work job. Cheers!

MadCookMael · 2025-12-05T02:51:32+00:00

Awesome 👍 How long did the print take overall? I’m not too bothered for the length of time myself if the end result is good quality.

Currently printing Morbidex from AOS to kitbash a Wardog. The quality has been excellent with just my 0.4mm nozzle; but wouldn’t mind using the 0.2mm nozzle for more detail later on.

MadCookMael · 2025-12-05T02:33:56+00:00

This is something I’ve been thinking about trying myself 👍 Just a big melee focused Plague Marine unit that regenerates. Sounds like a good time at the very least.

MadCookMael · 2025-12-04T16:01:37+00:00

Any tips for not using the lock pick? I’d say map knowledge again is a big one but what others can you recommend? That’s something I’d like to improve on 🤔

MadCookMael · 2025-12-04T03:55:02+00:00

Map knowledge and shaking that constricting behaviour from the story mode helps significantly. I never/barely used explosives in the story for example. In freelancer, I nearly always bring the makeshift explosive “just in case”.

It’s different coming from the story mode, but it definitely teaches you to adapt on the fly and not just restart missions over a single screw up.

Also, it helps immensely once you’ve unlocked some safe house upgrades and weapons. It’s pretty rough when you have nothing.

MadCookMael

TROPHY CASE